I removed the LH flip up window due to various issues and I am planning to install the sliding window.
I was going to get the CubCrafters sliding window kit until I saw the price.
Looking for opinions on sources for high quality sliding window kits and/or parts at affordable prices. I can cut...
I looked for the stamp but could not find the frame number. Mine's a 1982. Perhaps somewhere in its history the frame got replaced. Sadly, I don't have all the logs.
Easy enough to make a window just like the old one.
Once I checked my frame against the drawing and saw it wasn't even close I went ahead and captured the window measurements to measurements to CAD in about 15 min. Email CAD file to friend with CNC router: 30 sec or so. My friend likes to make this kind of stuff. I don't need it right away -...
I am going to replace the window in my right hand upper door assembly. Looking at PA-18 drawing 10050 I see the window assembly as called out as P/N 10051 like so:
I have searched the Northland drawings and supercubproject.com for a drawing for P/N 10051 and came up empty.
Before I measure my...
If you check eBay you can find lots of Otto push button switches for sale. Lots of different styles to choose from, including press fit switches intended for stick grips. Search for "Otto pushbutton".
Another approach to lubrication might be to use a bolt similar to the Scott tailwheel axle bolt with the grease zerk on the bolt head and a hole drilled through the bolt
That is my overall plan. The "ream them carefully" part is what concerns me. I had hoped I could get a machine shop to do the reaming but none I have contacted are willing.
Update: I contacted Cub Crafters per the STC for the repair procedure - and as it turns out there is no repair procedure.
I have contacted some local machine shops to see if they are willing to ream the holes for bushings - and no one is interested in the work.
I think I am down to one of two...
Drop in box with a battery in it and the associated electrical mods. Yes, silly given the simplicity of it all. What's not silly is wanting to make sure I stay on the right side of the FAA. If it's a minor alteration then I'm good (no, great!) with that.
I found an approved 337 with the setup I want - fuel bag and facet pump in a float compartment. That 337 has the fuel line tied in near the fuel selector (with fueling instructions on a placard). I'll try for an approval based on that 337 with a tie in at the upper sight gauge and a fuel bag...
Plane already has the baggage and 2000 GWI. Would love the DC 24 gal tanks but that will have to wait until a ground up rebuild. I have the Airglas straight pod so bags would work fine. Just looking for less of a workout since I'm not getting any younger. I can hoist the jerry cans just fine...
That's the way I am doing it right now. I burn ethanol-free mogas, so on long cross country flights, I carry several metal jerry cans. Not looking forward to the day I have to use the fuel step. I could make a portable transfer pump, but I'm asking about a bladder setup to see if it's...
I am doing a lot of work on a certified PA-18 and the plane is currently "apart".
I have an Airglas LC18XL on the way and I plan to use it to carry fuel on long trips. Current plan is to use 5 gal metal cans.
I'd like to be able to use a transfer pump with a removable fuel bladder in the pod...