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Suggestions on hangar size

reliableflyer

Registered User
Seldovia, Alaska
With cost a significant factor, how large should a hangar be to accommodate two cubs? Again with cost a consideration how wide and how long
 
Cut 2 scaled top views of the Cub out of a piece of paper. Draw different sized and shaped hangars on a piece of paper to the same scale as the Cubs. Practice moving them around as though you were packing the hangar. Do you want to get one out without moving the other one? Take that into consideration. The type of door can dictate the height of the hangar. Don't make it too tight just to save money. You'll regret it later. You could consider a turntable which can cut down on the door opening.
 
A 32’ by 42’ hanger will NOT handle two cubs....and that’s before I put workbenches in it.....
 
40 x 40 with 2 doors should work , stagger/canted the airplanes just a little
http://miracletruss.com/strong-flex...NIJhiTaSIh6moeTvhy9MDCx8aO8YDNJhoCCLAQAvD_BwE

for bi-fold I really like my Hi Fold. Great Guys, Good to work with, forget the other company.

Another root would be 2 x 6 stud walls with Union corrugated panels or local mfg. You will need to engineer the door openings for bi-fold though Its very doable. Sliders are by far the least expensive but require the most work to open.
 
Don’t listen to them! (No offense guys), Listen carefully. “You can’t build it too big!” No matter how big you build it there will come a time you wished you’d built it bigger!
 
Build it as big as you can afford! There's no such thing as being too big when it comes to a shop or hangar! Check under the couch cushions and car seats for extra change to stretch your budget as much as you can!
 
Pete is right. Make a scale model. I hear you. Mine will be 80 X 80.

Build it as big as you can afford! There's no such thing as being too big when it comes to a shop or hangar! Check under the couch cushions and car seats for extra change to stretch your budget as much as you can!
 
With 60 wide and 40 deep, I could squeeze three birds inside, but with two you could move in and out without moving the other one. Three was tight, and had a hard time with putting break and shear in place with that set up.

Cessna wings are about 36' wide, like the cub, unless you have extensions, then they are just under 40'.

More space is better! wide door will pay great dividends in the future.

look at the height of the tail of a 206, and prop tip on 185 type planes when sizing the door also, having a door that is 2' taller might be a good thing in the future.

Pay now, or cry later
 
60 wide would be a minimum for two or three planes. My hangar is 70 wide and I can put two float planes in there backed into corners without moving the other one to get either one out. Any less, it would require a lot of maneuvering. 50 wide would mean moving the one in front to get at the back one.
 
A wise man told me you can cheap out and be happy that day or do it right and be sad that day but happy forever after that. Mine is 60*70 with a 45 ft door and 18 ft ceiling. Make sure your ceiling is high enough for float plane just in case.
 
Like aktango58 said, 60’ wide x 40’ deep. Configure the hangar to where you can come back and add another 20’ to the back side when funding allows. Use a lighter tin color to minimize fading making it easier to match the old and new roof and sidewalls.

You’ll hate yourself if you skimp on the size. Hangar rash sucks. I built a 60’ x 60’ hangar last yr, keep one cub in it and still have come close to hitting crap.
 
If you are where you can exit two directions a nested tee with doors for each plane is great mine was 30x 60 and had a small office/ shop on one end and a bath in the opposite corner but you do have to buy two doors. Or do a bigger hanger with one door and buy a good tug likely for less money or at worst a wash.
 
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48x48 minimum, this will store both airplanes and leave a little room for benches and tools. The reason I say 48 instead of 50 is because for most truss makers 48 is the cut off before increasing costs. If you can get 50 or 52 trusses and minimal cost then do that. If you go this size you will have to move one to get the other out. 60 wide is bare minimum to be able to get one out without having to move the other. As for the 2 door suggestion, for the cost of a second door you could have added more size to the hangar, something to consider. Also, the wider the door the better, try to at least install 42 wide, that way you can get extended wing Cessna's and Cubs in.

If you put windows in for light consider putting them in up high for security, harder for wandering eyes to peep into or break into your hangar. Insulate if you can afford it even if you are in a mild climate and dont plan of installing heat, this helps with moisture. Don't go cheap of "Rube Goldberg" on your door, you will regret it. A "one push" button operated door that works well is oh so nice!

Kurt
 
I appreciate all these thoughts. I have three planes and I need three planes like I need three arm pits. One is going to go, probably the 182. And since I’m circling the drain as it is I don't need to think too far into the future. My wife’s next husband will have to deal with that.
 
I appreciate all these thoughts. I have three planes and I need three planes like I need three arm pits. One is going to go, probably the 182. And since I’m circling the drain as it is I don't need to think too far into the future. My wife’s next husband will have to deal with that.

Then go at least 48 wide and 60 deep, cheaper to go deeper than wider. I have been able to get 3 airplanes (2 Stearmans and a Widgeon) in a 50 by 50 but we had to use wheel dollys and it was for winter storage. We had to get very creative to do it and there was wing overlap, it was almost impossible to walk around from one end of the hangar to the other but I was amazed we made it work.
 
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Higher Power. 52’ x 14’ on a 60’ x 60’ hangar. Door price jumps $1500 or so over 52’
 

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Size the hangar to the biggest airplane that would be based on your field. If not on private property at your house, size for resale down the road, thus size for the biggest possible to attract the highest price when time to sell. Usually bigger hangars are in short supply, but bring highest prices.
In the interim you have a nice big hangar for your use.
Personally I have done several with 60' doors, to me that is the smallest that works for multiple aircraft. Deeper is better, and does cost less.
Max clear door height is one that can work for amphibs, if no amphib needs ever, then probably 16" clear is good.
John
 
My 50x60 has single piece powerlift doors in both ends. Its nice not to have to move the Cub to get my combine, truck, boat, spracoupe, or racecar outt


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org
 
Pilot friend with hangar next to me went Higher Power, went to back his motor home in and found out it wouldn’t fit. (Had to put a big roll up door out the back of the hangar) The Higher Power door pivots inside and under the ceiling/header/truss. Also has a weird pivoting sweeping motion about a 1/3 of the way down where the cam/pivot point is and gaskets never seal right. About 1/3 of the door is inside when open so you don’t have as much of an awning when open. I went with PowerLift, a retrofit as I had old sliding barn doors (those sliding doors are total junk) pivots from top of openings so maximum height, has a full length top seal and the sides come down like a casement window and seal, bottom has a simple straight in rubber sweep seal as it closes. All of door pivots out so full awning. All of these new style hydraulic doors are so much nicer than the old bifolds. Wired my power pack with a dryer whip cord to a dryer outlet so if there was ever a power outage I just fire up a generator, plug in the door and open it.
 
There are some drawbacks to one piece doors. They are nice in areas where they can work.
I cold/snow country I think one has to heat the slab outside the door a bit to insure snow/ice does not block it from opening for first few feet of operation? And in snow country where the roof snow load is heavy, one has to beef up the structure to handle the one piece door. Hanging out there requires the load to be carried inside the structure.
Have never had one, but have seen the added structure to install one, far more than basic biflold type in winter country.
Benefit is they are clear opening, so not much lost space for clear height. But they do take more area to clear to open, and not great for partial opening until up high enough to walk under. Scare me a bit walking under them when open.
I have been planning a new hangar and just saw the Schweiss hyd door that is a tri leg free standing system, not attached to the main structure. Has its own footing to set the support frame on, so no stress /beef up required on the building. Good for retrofit too.
Have asked for costs, but sure looks like a nice option and good looking hinge system. Could feel better under one of those.
John
 
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When I built mine, I did as many have suggested. I drew a diagram with everything in it that I owned at the time. Couple of collector cars, airplane, tractors, etc. I then doubled it. You guessed it...NOT big enough. Seems like a guy is alwys accumulating more 'stuff'. I currently have the cars, 3 planes (only one with the wings on and flyable) tractor, skidsteer and a bunch of other items in it. I wish I had built it 3 times what I was expecting. Maybe better if I just sell some crap!!
 
60 wide would be a minimum for two or three planes. My hangar is 70 wide and I can put two float planes in there backed into corners without moving the other one to get either one out. Any less, it would require a lot of maneuvering. 50 wide would mean moving the one in front to get at the back one.

Wheel planes cannot fly from your hangar!
Pete’s shop is awesome.


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We’ve been trying to decide which way to configure a new hangar to handle two Cubs ourselves. What I do know is that the last two years I’ve shared a 60’ X 50’ hangar ( 55’ door) with a 182. It just didn’t work without moving one out first. Granted, the hangar had a bathroom built in a rear corner so one aircraft couldn’t quite get tucked as far back as the other. The door width wasn’t a problem, it was avoiding touching wing tips and also watching those tapered steel trusses with the other wing. I’ve played with a few computer models and decided if we were to have one door it would take a 72’X 50’ hangar. (3600 sq’). I then looked at a 55’ X50’ hangar with two doors. (2750 sq’) Depending on your price per square foot to build, 850sq’ less would buy another $11K door and money left over. Having both aircraft tail to tail also gives you plenty of wall space for stuff where the single door option uses more sq footage for maneuvering.

Just pondering!

I would also appreciate anyone sharing what it’s costing per square foot to reach your finished product.

Jim
 
My hangar was 40 X 40 with 12 or 14-foot opening, held SC on floats on dolly, Champ and 185 on wheels, faced south right on the coast, didn't need a door. Used 185 wheels/skis at the front during winter, no rash no problems.
 
I'm 60x60x16 with a 50x14 HiFold door as well as a 20x60 lean-to shop on one side, connected on one hangar and 60x50 with a 50x14 Schweiss on the other. l'll go 100' square next time.... it's NEVER big enough!!!! My hangar in WA was 50x50 with a 12x50 lean-to on the back and I was constantly having to move every airplane to move one...huge pain in the butt!!!
John
 
My 50x60 has single piece powerlift doors in both ends. Its nice not to have to move the Cub to get my combine, truck, boat, spracoupe, or racecar outt


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org

Might as well sell the combine. It’s the only thing that makes money;-)
 
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