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Rocker Valve Cover.

texmex

MEMBER
Hanging Rock, Australia.
Unfortunately, my O-470 R only has a few flights left in it.

Unfortunately, my budget only has a rebuild and not an engine upgrade for more horsepower etc.

I'm thinking as prep work I'll send the rocker covers away and have them painted in a light grey or even chromed. Just a casual observation is that chroming of the rocker covers is not that common anymore.

I'm looking for any do's or don'ts on the covers.

Thanks,
Texmex.
 
Save you money and get a rattle can of continental gray. Crome won't help it make any more power.
DENNY
 
Chrome is no longer easy to get done correctly. If done incorrectly it peels off, and can damage your engine. I am with MTV - mine are gloss black powder coat. Elegant!
 
Save you money and get a rattle can of continental gray. Crome won't help it make any more power.
DENNY


Continental Gold, gray is Lycoming's color.
Curious why/how that 470R only has "a few flights left in it."
Timed out, making metal, ?
 
My Cessna's Millenniums use blacked covers with the raised lettering milled to clear aluminum. My Cub's Millenniums use cad plated rocker covers. Both serve the purpose to protect from corrosion. That's good enough for me.
 
That raises a question. My Cessna's rocker covers appear to be cast aluminum. Those on the Cub appear to be stamped steel. Maybe what you do with them is influenced by what thay're made of? Or maybe I'm wrong. Don't know. Never really thought about it before. Engine builders know that painted parts retain heat. Maybe the discussion should take cylinder temps into consideration.
 
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I'm guessing they're some sort of cast alloy. I'll try powder coating them. I think they are painted now.

Curious why/how that 470R only has "a few flights left in it."
Timed out, making metal, ?

Sorry for my tardy reply but I wanted not to respond on the run.

I purchased the aircraft/engine about 1 & 1/2 years ago and from the get go it was a little rough. Not uncomfortably, but not smooth. TT on engine was 1450 hrs and time since last split 25 years.

Very early on number 5 cylinder had no compression which turned out to be a broken ring on chromed cylinders.

I then found 6 zero timed cylinders for 750 USD each. Local overhauler who does good work. New pistons, rings re-seated valves etc.

So a mate and I put them on one weekend and it ran much better or so I thought. My father, who has about 25k hours in piston engine aircraft still wasn't happy with it.

I though I'd shut him up by installing fine wire plugs which happened about the same time as I installed a new 3 blade Hartzell.

Anyway, the guys couldn't balance up the new prop and said they suspected the bushes in the counterweights. They had similar results an a C182 which after lots of chasing turned out to be that.

So I look back on the last year and a half and I see enough pointers to pull the engine, split the case and redo.

I feel it's time.
 
...So a mate and I put them on one weekend and it ran much better or so I thought. My father, who has about 25k hours in piston engine aircraft still wasn't happy with it.

I though I'd shut him up by installing fine wire plugs which happened about the same time as I installed a new 3 blade Hartzell.

Anyway, the guys couldn't balance up the new prop and said they suspected the bushes in the counterweights. They had similar results an a C182 which after lots of chasing turned out to be that.

So I look back on the last year and a half and I see enough pointers to pull the engine, split the case and redo.

I feel it's time.
Isn't it amazing how sometimes you "just know" when it is time to overhaul. You can't put your finger on why, you "just know". That's the best way, before something breaks.
 
I've been speaking to the engine rebuilder and we're going to strip it down in about two months.
I've a question on the intake tubes, crossover tube and sump.
Probably the case also. How does the factory, and what alternatives are there on the finish? Are they painted or anodised?

Thanks.
 
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