bungee master help

I need to put bungees on my cub, problem is no tool to do it with, Years ago I built a tool but gave it to a friend in the business, it worked fine but I think I can do better. Can anyone describe how the AC Spruce bungee master works, does it only pull from one side, looking at the picture it appears that way. Dave

http://www.supercub.org/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=15534&highlight=bungee+tool

http://www.supercub.org/woe/bungee2.pdf

or do a search using the phrase bungee tool and check the search for all terms box

Sorry, I should have mentioned that I have done an extensive search and found nothing of help. I tried the hoist method and got the first bungee on but had trouble and could not get the second, I scared myself when I broke a 1/2 inch nylon rope, stopped and considered myself lucky, I will not go on that way. I'm working on a design for a tool, I believe I've got a good concept, I'll know when I try it. I looked at the bungee master from AC spruce and was just curious how it worked, mine is totally different and way simple. Just thought someone could let me know how the bungee master works. Dave

Some video of the Bungee Master in operation.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7454394442837718409

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2369396001556462937

I have one and use it but I would contact the Stewart brothers www.stewartsystems.aero for a much better bungee tool.

Thanks Steve, just what I wanted to see, I believe my design is superior to that and WAY less complicated and dangerous. When I get it built I'll try and take a video of an installation. It will be at least 3 weeks before I get back here with the results as I have to go to work for 2 weeks at a remote location. I looked at the Stewart site and didn't see anything on their site, did I just miss it? Thanks for the videos. Dave

They don't have it on their site but it is the bast design I have seen. I would call them.

A note on the Stewarts bungee tool.

We have had one for a few years now and use it regularly. It is a very well designed and safe way to install bungee cords. However, I have run into a design flaw. The draw bar is a piece of all thread with a long 5/8 hex nut (about 2 inches long) and the nut rides directly on the frame of the tool. After a while, this digs into the frame making it hard to operate. I have a modified bearing on mine for the nut to ride on, however, I have also worn out the draw bar once and the second one I have is just about worn out and needing replacement now. We have also welded a socket onto a piece of long tube so we can use an air wrench to draw up the cord.

Also, be careful of your hydrasorbs bungee ears. I recently installed a set of 1280 and 1080 cords on a Pacer hydrasorb without realizing that the ear was too small for that pair. When removing the hydrasorb from the bungee tool the 1080 cord rolled off the ear and shot off like a rubber band while I was holding it. I am really surprised that it did not break my thumb, although it still hurts and it has been over a week since it happened.

Brian.

Thanks for the heads up Brian. I usually put the 1080 on first. I have some interest pictures and video of how a group of Super Cubbers removes a 1280 from a hydrosorb when I installed the wrong one first. :lol:

Steve, I saw a picture of Stewarts tool, a friend had it in an article, it's quite similar to my design, mine is much heavier, I build real stout. I have a bushing designed to act as a thrust bearing for the puller, time will tell, mine will also be adaptable for use with a hydraulic ram if I can get one on the cheap. Dave

The tool Piper used had a hydraulic ram. I will dig up the picture and post it.

How it was originally done, at least on J-3's:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWZpmu30h94

/Mattias