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Stabilizer Link Assembly - Where to buy?

Bugs66

Bugs66

Registered User
Spokane WA
Hi Folks,
I need a stabilizer link assembly for my project. This is the part the front liner tube goes through which then attaches to the yoke. Anywhere besides Univair to get one already made? Univair wants $170.

They look easy enough to make, but heard there is a newer design that has a grease fitting?

Advice appreciated!
 
If you just need the link, Wag aero has it. info below.

Marty

Products Manufacturer Model SKU Price
Jack Screw Assembly, Stabilizer Attach Link Assy., FAA/PMA'd Piper M-105-001 $105.50
Displaying 1 to 1 (of 1 products)
 
Thanks for the part number Marty. That might do.

I was still wondering how they have been modded for the grease fitting? I've seem some photos and it appears to just have a bushing threaded for the grease fitting welded on. Does it also have a grooved tube within a tube for a grease reservoir? The grease needs to go somewhere.
 
Bugs,
I was wondering the same thing. I am thinking of making my own if I can get a good fit for the inner sleeve. For the grease fitting, it looks to me like a small piece of steel is welded in place over the oil hole and it is threaded to hold the fitting. I would think that light grease would simply take up the space between the sleeve and the link. Does any one with experience using the grease fittings want to educate us?

Thanks,
Marty
 
It is just a nut welded onto the tube and then you screw the grease fitting in. You guys are overthinking this!

I have thought about doing the same for the elevator.....thoughts?

Tim
 
Well if it's just a nut or threaded bushing, not much of a reservoir. Nor does it distribute the grease spanwise. Maybe it is overkill then huh?
 
Bugs66 said:
Well if it's just a nut or threaded bushing, not much of a reservoir. Nor does it distribute the grease spanwise. Maybe it is overkill then huh?
Click to expand...
It distributes grease alright, all over the place when its overgreased.
 
Bugs66 said:
Well if it's just a nut or threaded bushing, not much of a reservoir. Nor does it distribute the grease spanwise. Maybe it is overkill then huh?
Click to expand...
actually there is quite a grease resevoir in one. The bushing is only a couple inches long on each end, so the whole center is a reservoir the thickness of the bushing.
 
S2D said:
Bugs66 said:
Well if it's just a nut or threaded bushing, not much of a reservoir. Nor does it distribute the grease spanwise. Maybe it is overkill then huh?
Click to expand...
actually there is quite a grease resevoir in one. The bushing is only a couple inches long on each end, so the whole center is a reservoir the thickness of the bushing.
Click to expand...

Ok, this is what I am trying to get at. You say bushing on each end. You mean yours has bushings inside the tube on each side? Sort of a tube within a tube, but without the center of the inner tube? That is a different design than the regular Piper drawings from what I can tell. A regular stablizer link is just a tube and your liner goes right throught it with no bushing on each side.

A3290332.jpg
 
Yup that is how the J-3, PA-11 and very early Super Cub links were. Later ones were high tech with bushings, grease zerk etc.
 
Thanks.

Found this photo by Cubus which shows as you describe:
yoke_and_zert.jpg


Would like to know how far the bushings go in.
 
Why don't you just buy a used Tri-Pacer link? They have the bushings in the tube ends and i don't think it would take much work if any to use it on a super cub. And there must be 1000's of them around for sale cheap. Also i would doubt if any of them would be worn out.
 
I'd keep it light and opt for the less complicated one. Ever hear of one wearing out? The big deal is on disassembly, and the back tube is just as problematic. When I am oiling control bushings, I always put a drop of oil on the four joints holding the stabilizers.
 
Thanks for the tip on the Tri-Pacer link. I will look around. I may make my own too.

Does anyone know why the original link had holes in it?
 
There is one for 50 bucks in the cub club newsletter I got today. A J3 simple one. Says it is new.
 
Buggs,
I would buy the part new or used. I opted to build my own and when I welded the ears on it roughed up the inside of the tube. Also all of the welds are on one side so it bowed the tube slightly. The roughness can be polished out. If you built the newer style with bushings it might solve this problem. Anyway it is a little more complicated than it looks. To do it over I would buy new or try to find a good used one. Tim
 
Thanks Guys. I scrounged up an old style link to use for now in fit-up. I will switch to new style later.
 
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