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Ancient history of Alaska

AlaskaAV

GONE WEST
Mission, TX
Following is a news article that was released today about the petrified forests on the Alaska Chain and it turned the good old light bulb on again.
After reading this story, continue reading about some rather strange things I found on the arctic coast of Alaska.

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Alaska Island Home to Petrified Forest

By DAN JOLING
.c The Associated Press

UNGA ISLAND, Alaska (AP) - If you want to stroll through the only forest in the Shumagin Islands, you have to wear rubber boots and wait until the tide goes out.

In the Shumagins, where the wind never seems to stop, the few live trees were planted by people. But along a stretch of beach on the northwest corner of Unga Island, there's a grove that hasn't grown for millions of years.

Wind and water have worn away a 50-foot bluff to reveal a forest of petrified tree stumps that appear to be marching into the ocean. Unga is the largest of the dozen or so Shumagin Islands, 570 miles southwest of Anchorage near the tip of the Alaska Peninsula.

``It's like there was a great big Paul Bunyan - chopped them off all even,'' said Bill Dushkin, president of Shumagin Corp., the Alaska Native village corporation for Sand Point, which owns the land under the trees.

The trees are one of the oddities of Alaska, right up there with warm-blooded dinosaur fossils found north of the Brooks Range on the North Slope. The trees are believed to be sequoia, which grow in northern California, or metasequoia, now found mostly in China. Neither apparently have any business being so far north.

The petrified forest, much of it below tide line, covers about five miles of beach. On a sunny day, the petrified tree stumps stand out white and bright against the gray-black beach rock. From the bluff, they look like marshmallows on charcoal.

Hardly anybody visits this part of Unga. A small airplane can land a mile away but the few people who visit usually come by skiff. On a sunny summer day, with the mountains of the Alaska Peninsula as a backdrop six miles away, the only sound was the beating of a raven's wings and the occasional breaker washing against beach rocks.

Bruce Giffen, a geologist with the National Park Service, said the trees appeared about 25 million years ago, when paleontologists believe the Earth was warmer and the first horses and elephants with trunks emerged.

The trees were likely toppled by a mud flow during a volcanic eruption. The mud snapped off the trees and encased them. Over millions of years, the organic material of the trees was replaced by minerals seeping into the trees and taking their shape.

``Flow from the volcano came down and engulfed those trees and basically snapped them off at their stumps, or somewhere in the height of the trees,'' Giffen said.

Different minerals turned the trees different color - some are studies in slate and white, some are cream, red or orange. Their sizes vary, also: One of the largest is on the beach, a preserved log 67 paces long. The stumps range in diameter from a couple of feet to about 9 feet across.

Dushkin first saw the trees as a boy on a trip to dig razor clams. When villages were allowed to claim federal land under the Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act, the Shumagin Corp. chose this part of Unga.

Dushkin sees tourism possibilities in the forest. His corporation owns the only hotel in Sand Point, a city of about 1,000 a half-hour's boat ride away. Dushkin would like to attract visitors in the months when the area's main source of dollars, commercial fishing, has slowed.

So far, only a few small cruise ships stop at the petrified forest. One of them is the Clipper Odyssey leased by Zegrahm Expeditions, an adventure tour company based in Seattle.

Zegrahm President Scott Fitzsimmons said Unga will be a stop in August for a cruise that starts in Nome and visits islands in the Bering Sea. Visitors take inflatable boats to Unga to see the petrified forest, or bird rookeries or the abandoned Unga town site.

The cruise ship's lecturers are augmented by Shumagin Corp. members hired as guides.

Dushkin believes visitors may someday be seeing the forest through glass-bottom boats. He has approached the beach in his fishing boat, with radar indicating something on the ocean floor 12-18 feet high, rising like posts.

``I think there are underwater trees there,'' he said.

On the Net:

Shumagin Corp.: http://www.shumagin.com

Zegrahm Expeditions: http://www.zeco.com



08/03/04 03:23 EDT

>>>>

Many inhabited areas across Alaska have been found dating back some 10,000 years.
The article above is very interesting to me since I have seen redwood tree remains along the arctic coast. Just a couple of miles northwest of the Deadhorse airport, a drilling company was drilling a test well and bringing up core samples to send outside for testing. It was strange in a way because they would always have a Lear Jet or equal aircraft sitting on the ramp ready to crank up. The core samples were brought to the aircraft in boxes under very heavy guard and flown stateside somewhere to be run through a lab. This was before Prudhoe Bay was active.

At one point as I was driving by the test hole, I noticed the pickup belonging to the project manager of BP sitting at the site so went over to talk to him. He brought a core sample over to me so I could see what was coming up. There were actual pieces of a redwood tree, not fossilized but actual wood, that was cut out by the core drill. This wood came from about 500 foot below ground level where the permafrost (anything frozen solid for two consecutive years, soil or ice or mixture of both) went down about 1,000 feet. Remember, this was about 1,000 miles from the North Pole and I assume back in those days, Santa wore shorts instead of the warm duds he uses now. Personal opinion of course.

Along the north coast of Alaska, the ground is more or less level and about 10 to 15 foot above the water level of the Arctic Ocean. There is only some 6" tide in that area compared to maybe 28 foot in the Cook Inlet near Anchorage.

When there is a very strong onshore wind, there can be rather large waves that pound the bluff and melts the permafrost. There are several areas where complete redwood trees were found below the surface when the waves washed them out. These trees were 6 to 8 inches or more in diameter and had complete root systems attached so there is no way they could have washed ashore. In addition, many different kinds of sea shells normally from a warm area can be found. Sea shells have been found to rather deep depths in the core samples also.

Further inland and on the surface, many huge tusks have been found. As the news article above states, many dinosaur fossils have been found as well as tusks from the woolly mammoth and other animals of that era. Saber tooth tigers roamed the area also, possibly from Asia?
It is illegal to possess any of those tusks of course but many pilots flying overhead have spotted and reported them and a government crew would be flown in to catalog and retrieve them.
Since Wien was the only airline serving the area, we flew everything out so I got to see a lot needless to say. Lots of our light aircraft pilots would fly low just to spot them. Kind a feather in their hat so to speak when they could report something good to the "bad guys" for a change.

At one point when living in Barrow, Alaska, we had to melt ice from fresh water lakes for all the water we used. We used Teflon lined 55 gal drums to melt it. At one point, I ran into something that I still can't believe. The ice hauler brought in a dog sled load of ice and we started melting it and all of a sudden, small fish appeared. Come to find out, fish would become frozen in the ice that froze clear to the bottom of the lakes over the winter and when the ice melted in the spring, they would start growing again. It is bad enough to worry about "ice worms" but when it came to ice fish, that went a little too far but it is true, I swear. Anyone for snipe hunting?

After living with this kind of surroundings, it really wasn't much of a surprise to stand next to a 50 foot long whale weighing maybe 50 tons and watch it being cut up to feed the town. I have seen many fish that were kind of nice looking but not a whale.
When in Hawai'i and when we took the Maui Lu II http://supercub.org/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album128out (if it works) for a Sunday cruise to charge up the batteries and have a 40 to 50 foot whale surface maybe 20 foot away from us and swim along side, it was something else for our resort guests.
 
None of that is supprising if you believe in the Biblical flood, interisting, but not supprising. Ron
 
Redbaron180 said:
None of that is supprising if you believe in the Biblical flood, interisting, but not supprising. Ron

Ron
If I had more facts that I could rely on, there are so many other stories about the early days that I have learned through my wife's family and those stories are long before the "flood".
Thanks for the comment.
 
T.J. Hinkle said:
Why is it illegal to possess any of these tusks?

Because they are Alaska raw ivory T.J. Only natives may capture the ivory one way or another and as long as it is used in their native manor, the Alaska natives may possess the ivory and I am not really sure they can even possess raw historic ivory. I was very lucky and got one of the last partial walrus tusks allowed to be sold on the arctic coast without scrimshaw. One rather large goodie that I paid some $74 for in 1960s is now appraised over $3,400 and I have grandfather rights on it. Maybe I should load up the software for my digital camera and take a picture of it. I know my kids are kind of fighting over who will get it when I am gone. Just one of the goodies that our government power houses said had to be done to protect the sources. Doesn't really make sense to me but it is the same with the elephants over most of the world I understand. Gee, no one is concerned with our teeth are they?
 
The ivory ownership thing has gotten a fair number of folks in trouble over the years. My understanding is that recently taken ivory (walrus tusks that are not fossilized or were harvested after the Marine Mammal protection Act) are illegal to possess unless they have been scrimshawed in some fashion by a Native carver.

Mammoth ivory is actually pretty common up here and is (as far as I know ) legal for anyone to possess. Now digging it up out of a National Park or Preserve might be a different story. A lot of custom knifemakers up here use fossilized ivory (both walrus and mammoth) for knife handles- but you don't see too much new ivory.

The Fish and Wildlife Service can give you the definitive answer on what is, and isn't legal. A lot of stuff that you might not expect can get you in trouble when crossing the border. Stuff like some species of snake skin boots, elephant hide boots and belts, Alligator or Croc products and polar bear hides, and even some species of Rattlesnake cannot be imported (at least into California) Unfortunately your teeth are not ivory (at least mine aren't).
 
T.J. Hinkle said:
So, if your a native you can possess ivory, but if your a white man (non native) you can't?

You missed part of it T.J. I refereed to raw ivory as I recall.

The native Alaskans used ivory in their living such as kitchen utensils, hunting and skinning tools and of course for spiritual items which almost always had some type of scrimshaw involved. I know where you are headed but lets not go there unless you want to take it to PM or e-mail. I am only saying that the original native population in Alaska are still able to use natural materials to continue their life style that they have lived for some 10,000 years but I am not sure about the historic ivory say from the mammoth. That is what the native claim settlements were all about, letting the native population live like they had for eons. Since the US government took the land away from the original population, we, as part of our government, had to pay and give back to the native population their life style which is only fair. Just too bad that the Hawaiian community didn't do the same thing when the US government took the Hawaiian land away in the late 1800s by force from the people that lived there from day one so to speak. At least they are on the right track to make our government, read us, reimburse the descendents. Next will come the descendents now days called the Native Americans whose land we and our government took away from them and forced them onto reservations.

By the way T.J., check PM for a different subject.
 
Mike

You use words far better than I do. Your comment is almost exactly what I was saying. The area I was talking about on the north slope is almost all controlled by the US government so thereby, not open to private plunder thus the reporting of sitings by pilots. Into and south of the Brooks Range is a different story I am sure and beyond my knowledge. That is why I only referred to the slope.

I am waiting for the feds to restrict the possession of baleen by anyone. Probably should not say that in print for fear the feds might get an idea, right?
 
TJ,

I'll defer to you on the fresh ivory thing. My knowledge (if you can call it that) comes from some knife maker friends who will not touch new ivory (probably because of the sales provision of the Marine Mammals act).

I know that its pretty easy to find fossil ivory at gun and knife shows and given the ease of busting somebody (and not hearing of anybody getting in trouble) I gotta think that it is legal to pick it up - barring some local prohibition. I would imagine that it falls in the same category as any other fossil or petrified wood regulation. I know cultural resources like native artifacts are covered by a number of laws and it is illegal to pick them up on federal land, but I don't think that the same laws apply to fossil ivory. Probably wouldn't hurt to ask the land manager on the ground where you intend to look. On State land you'd probably want to call the SHPO (State Historic Preservation Officer) at DNR in ANC.
 
Next thing that may be controlled is the ownership of Walrus oosiks.

It will be interesting to see what the reason for control might be.
 
I did a little more research on the fossil ivory question and found out that it is illegal to pick up fossil ivory (including mammoth or mastodon) on any federal or State land in Alaska. It is legal to pick it up on private property (with permission) though.

It is legal to pick up fresh ivory on federal beaches (walrus tusks) as well as bones and skulls of polar bears and otters, but not the hides or any other parts of marine mammals (law didn't say anything about oosiks - but it is a bone). Like TJ said, you need to get the ivory registered by US Fish and Wildlife Service within 30 days and it becomes your property. You cannot sell, barter, or give the ivory away however unless you are a "Native Artist".

Now anybody can own, sell, barter or give away fossil ivory without any type of registration - you just can't pick it up on federal or state land.

Doesn't make a whole lotta sense to me.
 
Ursa Major said:
I did a little more research on the fossil ivory question and found out that it is illegal to pick up fossil ivory (including mammoth or mastodon) on any federal or State land in Alaska. It is legal to pick it up on private property (with permission) though.

It is legal to pick up fresh ivory on federal beaches (walrus tusks) as well as bones and skulls of polar bears and otters, but not the hides or any other parts of marine mammals (law didn't say anything about oosiks - but it is a bone). Like TJ said, you need to get the ivory registered by US Fish and Wildlife Service within 30 days and it becomes your property. You cannot sell, barter, or give the ivory away however unless you are a "Native Artist".

Now anybody can own, sell, barter or give away fossil ivory without any type of registration - you just can't pick it up on federal or state land.

Doesn't make a whole lotta sense to me.

Possing new ivery without scramshaw?
 
Alaska History

It been interesting reading what you guys have to say about Alaska, I read a book not long ago about a young Russian researcher that left Russia on a sailing exploration to a suspected land mass, which was Alaska. On the way they ship wrecked and were stranded for over a year. He told about seeing large mammals about 30 feet long that looked like the Sea Cows in florida. I guess there were alot of them along the beaches,but stayed in the water. They killed and ate some of them and said they were something like beef. They finally built another ship from the wrecked ship and sailed back. Not much longer word got out and the otters, ect. were almost wiped out. He also said there were so many foxes on the island they were stranded on that they clubbed them by the thousands, they were worse than mosquitoes. His name was Stellar, they named the Stellar Blue Jay and Seal after him.
 
Re: Alaska History

Bill Ingerson said:
It been interesting reading what you guys have to say about Alaska, I read a book not long ago about a young Russian researcher that left Russia on a sailing exploration to a suspected land mass, which was Alaska. On the way they ship wrecked and were stranded for over a year. He told about seeing large mammals about 30 feet long that looked like the Sea Cows in florida. I guess there were alot of them along the beaches,but stayed in the water. They killed and ate some of them and said they were something like beef. They finally built another ship from the wrecked ship and sailed back. Not much longer word got out and the otters, ect. were almost wiped out. He also said there were so many foxes on the island they were stranded on that they clubbed them by the thousands, they were worse than mosquitoes. His name was Stellar, they named the Stellar Blue Jay and Seal after him.

Thanks for the very interesting information Bill. Seems I recall that ship wreck and the Stellar name. There were many early bush pilots that lost their lives trying to rescue some of the crews on those stranded ships near Russia back in the 1920s. That is when bush pilots were really bush pilots, open cockpit and all in the winter. This link goes to one of the best, Carl Ben Eielson, the person that Eielson Air Force Base in Fairbanks is named after.

http://www.explorenorth.com/library/weekly/aa022800a.htm
 
Bill,

That critter was the now extinct Steller Sea Cow. The name of the Book was "Where the Sea Breaks Its Back" by Corey Ford. It was one of the best accounts of Bering's 1741 expedition. Ford based the book (written in 1966) on Steller's journals and other historical records. A great book and well worth reading if you have interest in Alaska's early history.
 
Ursa Major said:
Bill,

That critter was the now extinct Steller Sea Cow. The name of the Book was "Where the Sea Breaks Its Back" by Corey Ford. It was one of the best accounts of Bering's 1741 expedition. Ford based the book (written in 1966) on Steller's journals and other historical records. A great book and well worth reading if you have interest in Alaska's early history.

That is a new one for me Mike.

By the way, I got permission tonight to post some of the old time pilot stories from a senior pilot of Wien. These will be great when I get them edited to make them legal.
 
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