time to clean the plugs

I have an O320 A2B on my twelve and it's time to clean the plugs. I've done it before first using the dental pick and then sand blasting. Is this method good, bad, or ugly for the lifespan of the plugs? Is the sandblasting having a negative effect on the plugs ability to spark? Any input is welcome. Thanks.

Champion publishes a little manual that will tell you everything you'll ever want to know about spark plug maintanance. They give it away at all the major flyins. If you don't have a way to test them, I would find somebody or a shop with a tester for after cleaning testing.

The dental pick works good or check with A/C Tool Supply for a blade attached to an electric engraving pencil. It cleans that lead out in no time. I blast 2 short blasts with sand because it erodes away the electrode. I also wire brush the threads. Had plugs pull the heli-coil out before.

Also on the low compression engines I blast air from the top plug hole down and out the bottom hole to remove the excess lead around the plug hole in the cylinder. It keeps things that break loose when you pull the plugs out from getting right back in and fouling them.

Cimarron said:

Also on the low compression engines I blast air from the top plug hole down and out the bottom hole to remove the excess lead

Click to expand...

Why only the "low compression" engines? The 160's in cherokees always seemed the worse to me.

I used a chunk of hacksaw blade with a long thin point ground on one end and tape wrapped on the other for years before I could afford one of those fancy vibrators.

After you clean the plugs, (pik em, blast em, and wire wheel the threads on both ends), stick yer little finger up in the bottom spark plug holes and root out all the lead boogers you can reach. If you don't, those little boogers like to break loose when you put the plugs back in, and they always seen to fall right across the electrodes on the plug and short it out.

I really appreciate all the input!! I will put all the suggestions to good use. Especially the rooting around with my finger(s), I've certainly had plenty of practice!!

:roll:

And don't forget to put a bit of anti-seize lube on the threads when you screw them back in, and TORQUE them, for cryin out loud!

Just a bit of anti-seize, though,

MTV

A cheap alternative to expensive plug cleaning vibrators is a Dremil etching tool. I stumbled onto this years ago and it works really well. Remove the hardened steel etching rod (typically held in with a slot head set screw) and insert a 2 inch or so long chunk of 1/8 inch diameter brass brazing rod, file a flat knife edge on the end and it will knock the clinkers out of any plug, as important for long plug life as anything is keeping the gap to the proper dimension. Do yourself a favor and buy some iridiums your plug problems will be over with for the next 5000 operating hours unless one hits the cement. I typically get 500 hours out of the normal plugs if I keep them gapped and rotate position in the cylinders at each 100 hour inspection. New gaskets are good too, replacement or annealing with fire and a quick water quence softens them up so they seal like new again.

Forget cleaning plugs.........

If your plugs are becoming fouled due to lead, And, your engine can be STC'd for Auto fuel, changing to auto fuel will cut plug cleaning to almost nil. My old Cessna 170B went 2400 hours on auto fuel, and I only cleaned the plugs on two ocassions, and they really didn't need it then.
Car gas has NO lead at all, and doesn't foul plugs. If one has plugs that oil foul, one should address the real problem, why oil is getting to them.
Oh, car gas saves you a lot of money as well. In North Carolina, at the end of the year, I send my receits to the state, and get the state road tax refunded as well. Some guys will argue that some of the larger engines will need some lead, and it may be true (although I have my doubts).
Car gas runs fine
Car gas saves money
Car gas saves engine maintenance
Car gas does stink

Mike in NC

A little more info about my plug query: I was getting an unusual drop on the right mag, so I figured check the plugs first since its been awhile anyway. Plus the engine just didn't feel "right." Six of the plugs were clean, one a bit raunchy, and the eighth had a large chunk missing from the insulating ceramic (i could be wrong about the exact material). My pop said he'd give me a couple of replacements and asked what the plug number was. I said 'spitfire 88's' and got a dumbfounded look. A quick call to Glacier revealed that spitfires hadn't even been made for about two decades!! Needless to say, out came the spits and in went the champs (newlywed = no iridiums). Engine runup excellent, renewed power for take off and smoother cruise

btw I couldn't get my darned fat finger in the plug hole to 'excavate' but I did blow out the cylinders and definitely used anti seize. I do run 50/50 av-car gas. I'd heard that the lead is down to only twice the needed amount for planes. Thanks everyone for the great input.

I use a snap-on pick with a 45 degree or so angle to excavate the lead around the lower spark plug hole, don't scratch to hard. Just enough to remove build up. Then suck vacuum out the hole/cylinder with a hose size that is the same as your plug hole. No need to get the hose into the hole, just placed on the outside.
I have a 160 horse that builds up alot.

Leaning the engine during cruise at any altitude helps keep the plugs clean, too. No STC or special tools needed.

Anne.