Scott 3200 Detent Force Instructions

[Darrel Starr]

Yesterday I found and watched the following video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QtokU8mIDQk
My tailwheel springs were too tight like the example of the wrong way to set up the tailwheel. I have the AN42-6 eye bolts already and have ordered the 1/8th inch "U" shaped "Quick Links" from West Marine like the ones in the video as used on Maules.
But I have another issue. I have no instructions and no idea as to the correct detent force and how to reset the detents! Help!
My Scott 3200 tailwheel is only 70 hr old. The detent to the left as I am sitting behind the tailwheel seems about right. About like the force required in the video once the chains are loose. But I have no force specs to figure this out. The detent to the right is BARELY discernible. Just a minor bump. How do I increase the detent force to the right without messing with the value of the left detent force? I have searched for Scott info on the Internet and they seem to be missing in action. AKBushwheels sells a service to rebuild these so it seems they also don't publish any instructions. I have used Google's advance search to look at old Supercub.org threads with no joy.
That leaves me on my own unless someone out there has a set of instruction they are willing to share as to 1) what is the correct force value for the detent and 2) How can I rework my tailwheel to get there, Left and Right. Thank you for your consideration.
Darrel

 

[mike mcs repair]

the flat latch spring is either not sticking out far enough on the easy side, or the notch it is engaging in arm is rounded away.. or the flat spring is shimmed to tight to fully engage both ends at once...

take it out of head and with arm still on fork just look at it...

if flat spring has changed shape already its probably a good idea to replace it(too soft)

if notch in arm is worn replace it, or you MIGHT file it a little, but this can lead to bad things if you don't re-shim flat spring to it right...

 

[mike mcs repair]

he had another one too

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3qF...utube.com/watch?v=u3qFwzPNBgE&feature=channel

 

[Darrel Starr]

Thanks, I'll take it apart tomorrow. I'm surprised there doesn't seem to be a published step-by-step rebuild document on this very common important component!
Darrel

 

[mike mcs repair]

Thanks, I'll take it apart tomorrow. I'm surprised there doesn't seem to be a published step-by-step rebuild document on this very common important component!
Darrel

i think the only "best" document used for years were the pictures in the spruce catalog.......

 

[jgerard]

Call ABW and ask them for the "long" pawl. It allows the tail-wheel to break out sooner. Every taildragger that comes through my shop gets special attention to the tail wheel setup. I re-arc a lot of leaf springs, replace a lot of hardware, and properly adjust a lot of steering setups. I'm amazed at how many mechanics don't understand tailwheels.

Jason

 

[hottshot]

Give us a call and we will help explain.

 

[behindpropellers]

Call ABW and ask them for the "long" pawl. It allows the tail-wheel to break out sooner. Every taildragger that comes through my shop gets special attention to the tail wheel setup. I re-arc a lot of leaf springs, replace a lot of hardware, and properly adjust a lot of steering setups. I'm amazed at how many mechanics don't understand tailwheels.

Jason

How about a part number and explanation?


I'm not a fan of changing parts without a technical reason.

 

[Steve Pierce]

It's the pawl for the Scott/ABW series with the longer steering arm. The pawl is longer so it unlocks the tailwheel with less rudder travel if you are using the standard steering arm. I believe it is a 3219-1 part number.

 

[Darrel Starr]

Well the man from MCS, Mike? was right, the detent spring to the right was not angled far enough out. the distance from the end of the "U" shaped spring to the flat under it was 0.154 inches on the left and only 0.130 on the right -- it did not touch the part surrounding it. So I screwed up my courage and very carefully stuck a large screwdriver under the right leg and bent it out to match the other one. I don't have it back together yet but that, I am confident, is the reason for the right detent being almost indiscernible. So Thanks MCS!
Also, thanks to the generous offer in the thread above, I called Alaskan Bushwheel Inc. and talked to Wup (Derek) Winn. Believe me --- he is the MAN. I learned a whole lot in a short period of time:
1. The number of dampener coil springs is a manner of taste in how freely you want your tailwheel to swivel. He said that they send out almost all Cub and SC tailwheels with 3 instead of five. Steve Pierce also has said that he uses only three springs on SCs. So I am going to use only three.
2. Wup said that the flat detent spring can withstand more abuse than I had imagined so bending it was OK.
3. Using an ignition file and carefully dressing the little wear steps in the various detent parts was OK.
4. Take a piece of 100 grit sandpaper and scuff the ramp on the detent pawl -- done.
5. Reassemble with Exxon/Mobile SHC100 Lithium Synthetic extreme temperature grease -- I have some on order.
6. The grease in my tailwheel was old and gummy. It only has 70 hr on it in the last year but it is 10 to 20 yrs old waiting to go on N18SY -- lesson, old grease is no grease at all. It particularly was ineffective between the rubbing discs in the dampener section.
Also, watching the video and looking at the rudder-to-tailwheel spring setup. I already have the AN42-6 eye bolts but did not have the Maule "U" shaped connectors on the chain. So I have on order from West Marine some stainless steel 1/8 - 1 3/8 "quick links" that are good for 450 lbs.

Here is the Detent Spring with one leg not yet bent out to match the other.

 

[Steve Pierce]

Darrel, Do the links have the cotter pin holes in them? I have gotten them from Maule and really prefer them over the clips Scott sold with their chain kits.

 

[Darrel Starr]

No they don't. Steve do you have the Maule part number? I have been thinking that they need a safety.
Darrel

 

[hottshot]

The part # is a TW85 on the links we carry them as well, this might help also. I will try to post picture of the Pawl soon. The part # on that is a ABI3219-02