Rudder pedal/pedal spring installation?

[sekps]

The assembly of my L-18C continues and yesterday I started the installation of the rudder pedals. Is there something I should think of when I'm doing this?

As I have powder coated everything I had to remove the paint on the "bearing surfaces" to get the original "35-year snug but not sloppy fit", but when I start putting it all together I still get too much friction. And with four pedals in the loop I really want to minimize friction as much as I can.

I use the original shim washers and I have been really careful to put everything (bolts, clamps etc) back exactly as it was, but at one pedal it seems as it I have to go from 2 to 5 shim washers. Should I do this? Or is it better to live with the friction the first year and hope that it gets better?

/Mattias

 

[cubpilot2]

You need to have the pedals free enough so that the springs can do their job of pulling the it forward. Doesn't have to be "snappy" but just effective.

Check to see that your springs are not "cramped" inside the attachment brackets and causing a bind. Lubricate the outside of the coil spring where it contacts the bracket.

Good lubrication is a must.

Sometimes just working them back and forth a lot will begin to free them up.

 

[Crash]

Springs

I noticed when I put mine together that it was the springs being bound up that caused the friction. I had to take the die grinder and work on the mounting plates to get the springs to track right. After that, all four pedals would snap forward with full spring authority, no drag. If it doesn't look right, fix it, is my motto. Crash

 

[JP]

I rank putting the brake pedals and springs back together with a decent rate of return right up there with my other favorite task (not!)--putting the dang bungees on the landing gear.

As for the former, we spent quite a bit of time playing with the brake pedals, shimming and lubricating so that they worked in an acceptable fashion. Just keep at it. Your frustration is shared.

 

[sekps]

Thanks for sharing my frustration and finally - all pedals in place!!!

I found out that quite a few of the welded brackets (under the floorboards) were slightly twisted. I don't know if it's always been like that or if it happend during bead blasting but once I adjusted them it was so much easier.

One of the front brake pedals was twisted (someone really stepped on it!) so I had to fix that too. But now they're all there, with a snug fit and almost no friction.

Hopefully it's time to cover in three weeks or so and then it's time to make a new boot cowl, panels, install the Grove disc brake conversion and the header-less fuel systtem STC I bought, make new engine bafflings and...

/Mattias

 

[Rob]

I noticed that the springs are 3/4" wide, and the rudder petal "post" is 1/2" tube. The brackets are 1 1/4" apart leaving "binding" an almost certaity...mine did as well... the worst bind on mine came from the new floor boards. They where hanging beyond the brackets and needed to be "beveled" a bit on the bottom side, right above the spring. This and "working" the bracket a bit with the dremel made evrything happy again

 

[Michael E. Butterfield]

The replacement spring is not as tightly wound as the original Piper spring, and because of this is putting a very heavy side load on the rudder pedal into the u-clamp that holds it in place. This side load is not only damaging the pedal and clamp, but is causing the cables to hang loose, as there is so much friction that the return spring is not able to do the job of returning the rudder pedal to the forward position and hold that cable tight. Almost every rebuilt or new Cub that uses this spring has a noticeable hitch in the rudder system. I think that sooner or later there will be an AD or service bulletin to address this issue. Citabria uses a spring that looks allot like a screen door spring that provides a very positive return, and can be replaced without cutting holes in the fabric. Mark has adjusted the thrust line for us, maybe he can fix the rudder pedal too... Fly low, avoid the radar.mb

 

[Rob]

Mike, all four of my pedals were litterally almost "sawed in half" by the spring were it bound up on them. All needed weldin etc... and now after the "clearencing" are not binding. Are you saying the replacement springs are worse than the originals?

 

[BES]

and the header-less fuel systtem STC I bought, make new engine bafflings and...

/Mattias

Mattias,

What kind of header-less fuel system did you buy? From whom? Can it be used for a PA-12 as well??

Bent

 

[Michael E. Butterfield]

The coils of the replacement spring are much wider, or spread out than the original Piper spring and put a considerable side load on the U-bracket that holds the pedal in place. You think the old stock ones are bad, wait till you repair a new Cub with a couple of hundred hours on it that has the replacement spring. It not only wears a hole in the pedal, but shoves the stopper into the U-bracket, and wears a big gouge in it. All due respect to Mr. Piper and his crew of engineers, but they missed the boat on that one small issue, then the replacement spring only makes it worse. Low and slow, power back in the turns.mb

 

[sj]

This was timely info folks, thanks!

sj

 

[Glidertow]

rudder pedal installation

This is one of those times when the parts manual just does not help. When thinking of the parts involved, is there a "sacrificial" link placed under the pedal between the aircraft frame mount and the pedal, then the clamp over the pedal? or is the pedal just rubbing against the frame mount? Repost after no reply, come on fellows help me out here.

 

[akwing]

Anyone have some good photos showing the installation of the rudder pedal and spring?

 

[Oliver]

I'm looking for pedal spring install photos too, anyone...

 

[Larry G]

 

[Jasperfield]

I would have thought Univair or someone would have been producing correct springs by now. It's not too difficult to make a torsion spring, in fact if you Google together "how to make a spring" and "Educypedia" there is a link to find a 60 page tutorial on how to make all kinds of springs in your shop. Also spring shops are not uncommon and most will do one-off and/or short runs and help design your spring.

 

[Oliver]

Perfect,
thanks Larry

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Need any more pics? I just finished putting my pedals in and it's still opened up.

 

[cubdriver2]

I would have thought Univair or someone would have been producing correct springs by now. It's not too difficult to make a torsion spring, in fact if you Google together "how to make a spring" and "Educypedia" there is a link to find a 60 page tutorial on how to make all kinds of springs in your shop. Also spring shops are not uncommon and most will do one-off and/or short runs and help design your spring.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Piper-C...hip-/261837672804?hash=item3cf6bdd164&vxp=mtr

http://www.javronaviation.com/Rudder-Pedal-Return-Spring/


Glenn

 

[RaisedByWolves]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Piper-C...hip-/261837672804?hash=item3cf6bdd164&vxp=mtr


Glenn

Thanks for the link Glenn. Now I need to find a rudder pedal

 

[kiwicubber]

Just finished re-installing our rear rudder pedals after refabricing our Super Cub. The front ones were easy with the boot cowl off, but the rear ones took over two working days :-(
We got some good tips from this forum but thought we would pass on ours.
We started with the floor up and positioned the rudder pedals, saddles and shims on the tabs with lock wire through the bolt holes.
Then we put new lock wire around the outside of the saddles (see photo) so we could put the bolts through the holes. (Our saddles have captive nuts fitted).
With everything in place we positioned the floor and it took about 1/2 hour the fit all the bolts. You can then remove the lock wire (or leave it).
In a couple ot the holes the shims and saddles didn't quite line up, so we sharpened one of the bolts which allowed everything to line up as it was inserted. This bolt can be replaced with normal one once everything is tightened up.

We hope this is helpful to avoid some frustration.

[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)]
[/COLOR]

 

[Steve Pierce]

Bill, I usually install the rear pedals prior to covering but looks like you will be able to remove them without cutting fabric.

 

[kiwicubber]

Thanks Steve, yup I had in mind to do them prior to covering, but missed the pedals in the process. As you say we now can remove them without cutting the fabric, so that is the silver lining in the dark cloud ��

cheers

 

[Oliver]

I had a cub with the belly fabric just about rotted out. 30 years of oil, dirt, brake fluid and rat pee.
It was the original fabric, finished in Randolph. rest of the fabric was in good shape so I cut the belly out and decided to add an inspection cover instead of a patch.
Rejuvenated/re painted the plane. Not sure how legitimate the repair was, provided great belly access though.
Guess my point is that its not hard to add inspection/access covers over hard to reach areas well after the fact - a bit tougher if its finished in urethane but doable, especially in an inconspicuous area.

 

[john.greiner]

Larry,
What size are the tubes used on the rudder pedals. I need to get a brake pedal mounting bracket and plate, and I wanted to make sure its the right size.

John
Site nube..