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Best Tailwheel Primary Training in the US

N

Nomad

Registered User
First off, allow me to introduce myself. I've been a lurker here for some time now, and interested in aviation since I was a kid-- grew up the son of two pilots, one military one private, but never did much flying-- I figure raising 5 kids kept my parents busy enough! I've recently relocated to Alaska (Anchorage) and have decided that now is the time to stop putting off my flight training, being in such a fantastic location for flying. I currently work a remote mining job, working 4 weeks on and 2 weeks off, which gives me a little flexibility for training.

I'm looking for some recommendations for primary flight instructors/schools in tail wheel aircraft. My eventual mission is to pick up a Supercub and use it to explore AK and likely large parts of the lower 48, so learning tail wheel from the beginning is important to me. In the more near term future, I will probably pick up a J3/Champ/Taylorcraft as a tail wheel trainer. Because of my work schedule, I'd like to try and take a few weeks and really commit myself to learning-- and I'm willing to travel a bit if it gets me the right instructor or flight school. Time frame for this is sometime in the next year, but most likely will not get to it this summer, as house hunting will be eating all my time (and $).

So, TLDR: Where would you recommend I go, location aside, to do primary training in tailwheel planes (either rented or my own)? And is there anything I am missing or overlooking that might be a better option?

Thanks all for your advice!
 
I had a very good tailwheel refresher experience with TacAero in Hood River when visiting the USA in March of 2017. I plan going back next year and doing their CarbonCub advanced course and some add on backcountry experience for a planned Alaskan adventure in 2021/22 (my geriatric gap year). They are very friendly folk and have a good setup. I flew with Kris in their TopCub, they had a good range of tailwheel aircraft and the local area is great for flying, though we did have some marginal weather days.
 
I would look first at any flying club you can join. If money allows buy a plane, Pacer/170/Citabria, would be my first choice for Alaska. The ones you posted are fine for training (I am afraid of that dam blue TCrate showing up when I do a STOL even) but limited by power/weight for a BEGINNER (playing in AK). They are great planes, but if you want to EXPLORE ALASKA as a beginner give yourself a bit more leeway. A pacer is a bit of a handful at first but once you understand/love/hate/regret the next flight, it is OK. They will carry a load and you will find them on most runways in Alaska. Even in the winter because it is what the poor guys can afford and want to fly year round. The problem/good thing about having your own plane is getting instruction. So if you are in a club that has instructors you are good. Set up for you days off. If you want your own plane go find instructors that do it FULL TIME!!! and can be at you beck and call!! I flew a Pacer over a lot of Alaska and usually had a 170/Citabria with me. The last time I went over the Brooks range a Cessna 150 was in the mix. GO LEARN TO FLY!! Ya, if you do it in a tailwheel airplane like the cool guys, women will want to have your baby and you will be a HUGE stud!! But the big thing is go fly!! Because when you are at the bar with fellow pilots telling the story of how you almost died, it always starts with "THERE I WAS"!!
DENNY
 
I have a pretty good instructor for my PA-12 but we don’t do primary training in it. He can do the tail wheel transition though.
 
A couple of thoughts:

If you can fly summer time, get the plane and find yourself a retired guy with more time than you, schedule him for your weeks off and do it there in Anchorage. For insurance reasons, that is your best way.

If you can not do it in the summer, put the plane south in the desert areas and fly down for the two weeks off and get it done, waiting for winter weather in Alaska to learn to fly will prolong you until you cry.

Get it done.

Don't leave out the Maule in your mix. A champ is a great plane, as is the Tcraft, but if you want to explore they tend to limit out quickly in loads. If you are a small person with no gear, you will be fine. I prefer the champ for the roomy cabin, but slow...

If you are wanting a super cub to explore, just buy the super cub now and learn in it. It takes time and money to buy/sell planes. It takes time and gas to learn your plane. Just start with what you want and go forth...

You only get two weeks off after four on... allow yourself to have what you want and get it done.
 
Thanks for all the responses so far!

Pacer, 170, and Maule have also been on my radar, and definitely meet my long term mission more. The Husky is also a contender, as i understand it is a bit quicker for longer cross country flights than a cub. One detail I should have mentioned is that I'm 6'2", so interior space will likely play a factor in what I end up with. One of the things making me shy away from a larger, more expensive plane initially is the insurance factor as a no time pilot, but am I overthinking in that regard?

On buying to learn in-- would there be any value in training for the first few hours in rented planes to enable me to get a feel for what I want before buying, or would that be just as likely to stretch the training out by potentially switching aircraft midway?
 
Yes, I’d start locally and get a few hours under my belt before purchase. In the meantime, with permission, climb in and out of as many different types as you can to get a sense of what fits. Talk to owners about their airplanes....asking specifics. Learn as much as you can before you buy. Then buy the one that fits your mission. People are all different shapes and flexibility, so getting a feel for what YOU are comfortable in is key. Good luck, as you explore this, post your questions/thoughts here. Lots of help on this forum.

MTV
 
I bought my Cub before solo - I had three hours in my logbook when I wrote the check. Never for a second regretted that. Still have it; still fly it every day.

However - you can buy a Champ for cheap, learn the basics, junk it, and darn near come out ahead. If you are thinking Husky or C-170 (two vastly different airplanes) consider saving your pennies for a 160 hp ACA GCAA. Not a Cub, but lots closer to Cub-like than either the Husky or the 170. And faster than the 170.
 
Buying a starter/training plane is nice if you can resist the urge to make ANY changes. Because when you sell it you will only get the about the price you paid for it. If you can buy it, fly it, sell it, doing only basic maintenance, you will do fine money wise. I know very few pilots that where able to do that including myself. I paid 24 grand for my pacer and did not insure it. Thinking back I should have gotten at least liability insurance. Lots of ways to skin the cat no right or wrong.
DENNY
 
I think the taildragger emphasis is often more than it should be. Learn to fly in whatever is most available. Even a nosedragger steers on thr ground with your feet. In the air the placement of the wheels makes no difference. It is true that a taildragger requires a little more attention since it is inherently latterally unstable on the ground. Once that is understood, the transition is no that tough.
 
I agree in that with a diligent instructor and a student who truly strives to master the basics, where the little wheel is located on the airplane doesn't make much difference. Transitioning such a pilot to conventional gear aircraft is a non-event.

One problem is that there are too many instructors out there that never mastered the basics themselves and are hence unable to teach properly. The other issue is the student that accepts a performance of "good enough" [in the interest of full disclosure, I was one of those regarding my academic performance in high school]. Transition training a pilot with this background is much more involved because bad habits have to be "unlearned" and the basics have to be retaught properly.

A tail wheel airplane is not amenable to sub-par instructors and lax students. That is why it is said that learning to fly in a conventional gear aircraft makes better pilots. That is not actually true; good instructors and students that strive for their best performance make better pilots. The taildragger just forces the issue.
 
If you're up near Wisconsin I highly recommend CubAir Flight, in Hartford, WI. They teach in J3 Cubs and you WILL get good instruction well beyond what the FAA requires. Check them out at www.cubair.net.
 
CubAir was actually one of the places I was looking at, as I try and make it out to Wisconsin about once a year to see family there. I'll definitely keep it on the list!
 
ed.meyer said:
I think the taildragger emphasis is often more than it should be. Learn to fly in whatever is most available. Even a nosedragger steers on thr ground with your feet. In the air the placement of the wheels makes no difference. It is true that a taildragger requires a little more attention since it is inherently latterally unstable on the ground. Once that is understood, the transition is no that tough.
Click to expand...

I think doing your initial training in a more-available trainer (C150/152/172 or Cherokee) is the way to go.
Cheaper, quicker to solo, quicker & easier to get the required BS done and your checkride done.
Plus a lot of taildraggers aren't gonna have all the equipment required for your PP checkride--
artificial horizon, DG, VOR nav unit, etc.
Get your ticket the easiest quickest way possible--THEN go for the post-graduate tailwheel training.
If you're just going for sport pilot, then training in the t/w makes a bit more sense.
 

My comment stemmed from the fact that a couple guys I knew back in the day had their own airplanes (Champ & Chief),
but had to rent a 150 for final student-pilot tune-up and for the checkride.
Reason was, they needed a VOR receiver & gyros.

I see that document is dated about a year ago.
Reading it, looks like dead reckoning (compass & chart) and/or handheld GPS is now good to go for nav part of checkride.

How about the under-the-hood part?
Needle/ball/airspeed is possible but tough, not too many people teaching it these days.
Plus you'd need a T&B -- and it'd have to be venturi-powered for negative-electric airplanes.
Or is the EFB approval good for simulated IFR using an AHRS app?​
 
Last edited:
tedwaltman1 said:
Air Facts Journal has an article out today on this topic: https://tinyurl.com/yadetrpd
Click to expand...
Great story, thanks. Prior to my first lesson, I purchased my BC-12D from Bill Dean in Juneau, then proceeded to seek out a flight instructor. My first instructor said no-thanks after the first landing in gusty winter winds at Juneau. Then I ran across Steve Hewitt, master pilot and instructor. He taught me a lot, beyond that which was necessary for the private checkride. Early 1970's. Thanks Steve, and thumbs up for the idea of purchasing a taildragger and learning in it. It becomes not-so-much a big deal.
 
hotrod180 said:

My comment stemmed from the fact that a couple guys I knew back in the day had their own airplanes (Champ & Chief),
but had to rent a 150 for final student-pilot tune-up and for the checkride.
Reason was, they needed a VOR receiver & gyros.

I see that document is dated about a year ago.
Reading it, looks like dead reckoning (compass & chart) and/or handheld GPS is now good to go for nav part of checkride.

How about the under-the-hood part?
Needle/ball/airspeed is possible but tough, not too many people teaching it these days.
Plus you'd need a T&B -- and it'd have to be venturi-powered for negative-electric airplanes.
Or is the EFB approval good for simulated IFR using an AHRS app?​
Click to expand...


I know of several people who had to use a better equipped aircraft to complete their training and/or check ride way back when. I 2nd the thought on recovery under the hood on N, B and ASI.
 
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