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Our Cub Project

The Prop is 84-42 and it was a deal because it was one of the test props for the 0-375 pull test in a previous thread. Craig said they cost 2100 for the prop, hardware is a little extra.

The balance cable will connect in the wing on one side. I THINK that is how the carbon cub does it. Experimental :-?
 
It has been a month since my last update and we have made some progress. We hung the engine and are working on the cowling. We have decided to go with the round filter. We made our channels from Christians drawings and bought a nose bowl from Back Country Cubs. It is for the 360 and split.

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It comes pretty good, but it needed some work.

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Top and bottom channels installed.

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We also went to Sun N Fun and met some friends, Charlie, The Donald and Steve P. We camped around our Cherokee (background) behind this sweet ride.

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I got to look at Charlie's plane pretty close, it is the first Pa-18 I have been around besides ours in years. IF you have not seen it, it was very clean. He had his homemade pod on.

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The nice thing about being around so many different types of planes is you can compare them side by side.

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The balloons went off early Saturday morning.

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And everyone had a great time...except Suzanne

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Back to WORK!!!

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Side cowls are next.

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Cowling stringers? stiffeners? thingys?

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Just like the video...

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Air box. Round one.

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With the new software up and running, I am going to continue this in the blog section. Thanks for all the great comments and suggestions. We are wrapping up the fuselage and I have ordered the spars for the win build. Check the blogs out if you have not, there are a bunch of new and rebuilds going.
 
I would kill to do what you are doing. It would take me 100 hours just to figure out how to measure something properly. I have to change my skillset. I am ashamed.
 
fabricfan if you are serious. Go to Christian Sturms site and pick out one part (drawings section) then pick out one sub part of the part (for instance an aileron rib). Read up how to build that one part (there are many different ways), order the material (onlinemetals.com), make the rib, make several, send them to me (just kidding). Don't set out to build an airplane, just to build a rib. Figure out how to build that one rib right and after that effort the rest of the small aluminum brackets in the whole aircraft will be a piece of cake. Your not building a plane, your building a part.
 
qsmx440 said:
Your not building a plane, your building a part.
Click to expand...

Excellent advice.
No part of building a plane is rocket science. Just very time consuming & satisfying.
Internet research the topic: How to eat an elephant. :)
Same-same.
 
TCraft, awesome job. I was admiring your left side door. Looking at the pictures it looks like the left side is simply trussed like the right side? Are there any other mods or beef ups to put in a L/H door? I really enjoy following your project. Good job to both of you.
 
DA, The Left side door is the same as the right door as far as we can tell. The front "Chunk" we started with already had it there, we just left it there. Check my blog for pics of our throttle solution. Good luck with your project too.
 
Here are some pics of our throttle solution for the Left Door. The way that the smith cub uses the rod under the lower door rail places the lever in your thy. We went into design mode and put it above the door, a-la Wigeon style. It is comfortable and out of the way.

I also bought the rebuild kit from ABW and followed the videos that Steve made about Scott 3200 Rebuild. The ABW guys are great and the vids make for an easy rebuild, Thanks.

The Baffle Kit is an RV-6 O-360 Kit that we adapted. It is very complete and pre-drilled. The PMAG ignition wires and NGK iridium plugs are also visible.

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Front Throttle

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Rear Throttle

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Left Side

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Rebuilt and Painted 3200

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RV-6 O-360 Baffle Kit.
 
neat!

I never did get around to sketching up the door throttle when you asked me many months ago... sorry....

but your picture just gave me an idea that solve the last issue with my thought ..... Thanks....
 
You guys do GREAT work -- please keep the pictures coming. The craftsmanship is very impressive!
Darrel
 
mike mcs repair said:
neat!

I never did get around to sketching up the door throttle when you asked me many months ago... sorry....

but your picture just gave me an idea that solve the last issue with my thought ..... Thanks....
Click to expand...

this is a quick sketch of it...

one problem with this is no throttle when door open.. might want something up in front of door like you have in throttle cable..
blue part is on inside of door, and red is on inside of fuselage, both share the pivot location(but not one bolt)(stolen from 1929 fairchild aileron linkage for the folding wings)

door throttle 01.jpg
 

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    door throttle 01.jpg
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Today we installed the cowling we made with all the hardware. The inside primer is the old school Yellow Chromate that kills the environment but looks so sweet.

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Her is a shot of the Windshield going in. The little squares are Super Magnets. They are the best clamps for things like this and if you are building, buy some (wrap them in tape, it takes the bite off) Just try to keep them from walking away or wiping out your phone! I get mine here Super Magnets

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Tcraft,

Simply AWSOME work. I really admire y'alls talent!

Please enlighten me/us as to what your thoughts/plans are for the instrument panel. To me it appears that your boot cowl design is significantly different from a standard Cub and I know y'all must have a plan...

John Scott
 
Longwinglover said:
Please enlighten me/us as to what your thoughts/plans are for the instrument panel. To me it appears that your boot cowl design is significantly different from a standard Cub and I know y'all must have a plan...
John Scott
Click to expand...

Have you ever felt how heavy those things are? Its a cub, it does not need to have the same amount of instrumentation as a king air. After SNF I will post the "panel" and some more info on our plan. Light weight, just like Crash says is the name of the game.
 
You fellas are making great progress. It is looking very nice. What was the source for the firewall blanket? I like it.
Howard
 
So a little time has passed and we have finished the fuselage! Well kinda, wiring, fuel, But we are moving on to the wings. We were at Sun n fun (Friday-Sun) and picked up our spars from Scott and Steve at DE aircraft. Nice people and real easy to deal with. Got some great pictures of Legends and Back country's uncovered cub wings and had a few $10 hockey puck hamburgers.

Now that we are back, we have started to repair/rebuild a set of ribs. We might have a solution to the splices that Univair uses that wrap around. I will post some pictures soon.

What screws work the BEST for holding the ribs to the spars? I know they are #4 type z pk, but what ones do/did you use? Which ones do we need to avoid?
 
Get the screws that hold ribs or anything else to the spars from Dakota Cub. They don't break or strip, been there, done that and said some very choice words. Do yourself an enormous favor and find a 12" long #1 Phillips head screw driver as well.
 
An 530-4r4 is what I used. They have a deeper head than a regular pk screw, so it's harder for the screwdriver to slip. Having a really long screwdriver-like 18 inches at least will be really important too.
 
Update: Ordered the screws from Dakota, they say 225 per 16 rib wing. We are going 13 rib, so I ordered 500 and Dad said I should have ordered 800! I also am now a member of Cub Club and after Jordan tried hard not to sell me the DVD for the wing (kidding) I purchased that too. He said it is like a Stitts or King tape, so I will chug a red bull prior to starting the tape. The rib repairs are coming along nicely and I will post some pictures early this week.

I have some questions for the masses.

1. I have noticed that the aileron false spar on a -18 is different than the flap false spar. The -22 is Straight across and uses bent hangers for the flaps to compensate. The -18 uses straight hangers for the flaps. I have both sets available so that is not the problem, but I have to know, which is better? Does it matter? What are the flight differences?

2. Round or square tips? I have read it ALL, and it seems like Ford vs Chevy

3. Extended flaps to fuselage. Pros/cons?
 
You won't use that many of the Dakota screws though. They are used to install the ribs to spars, leading edge skins to spars and the 3/8" channel braces to the spars.

Tips are all up to the individual, there is enough already posted to educate yourself on everyones opinions.

Tuft the fuselage with stock flaps and you get all kinds of burbles all down the side of the fuselage. Bring the flaps inboard and they smooth out.
 
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