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Super Cub 91246 Rebuild

My Super Cub has well over 12,000 hours and the door pins and the sockets that the door pins fit into are worn and let the door rattle. It doesn't take 12K hours to do this. I started welding bushings in the recepticles to make a tight fit and to keep from wearing a notch in the pins.
Front receptical.
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Rear receptical.
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Note the hole drilled in the "U" channel that makes up the seal for the flip up window and has 3 #4 PK screws screwed into it to retain the rear "D" window. There is no where for water to escape this channel that is welded over a round tube. I have found lots of these rusted completely through. This is a 1500 hr airframe with an aluminized coating from the factory that we found no corrosion on so instead of cutting the channel off like I normally do I used a Blair hole cutter and drilled a hole in the channel to inspect the tube underneath.
 

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The two most important safety modifications that I install on all rebuilds.
The top deck "X" brace from Atlee Dodge. Have gone strict into the ground from 100' in a PA16 that has the same upper deck structure I have seen the rear spar carry-thru collapse into the cockpit.
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I have also seen the results of the seat breaking away from the fuselage sending the pilot, shoulder harness or not into the instrument panel. Atlee Dodge STC for installing the seat belts to the floor is a must in my opinion.
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I also got the idea for this from Wayne Mackey. It is piper 3/8" channel forming the inspection cover frame where the aileron cables attach to the bottom of the rear stick. I use 6/32 nut plates in the channel to retain the inspection plate. This frame serves several purposes, it holds the inspection panel more securley with less drumming which cracks the original plastic inspection grommets, it also keeps things from jamming the bottom of the stick by keeping things from migrating in between them. It also moves the center stringer back so things don't get jammed between it and the bottom of the stick and will help with clearance when Mark gets his STC for the extension tab. ;)
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Atlee Dodge sells Butch Cavanaugh's STC for the large baggage door structure that removes the diagonal tube and replaces it with a dog leg. The door and opening frame are not called out in the STC and have not been installed yet.
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1/4"x28 nut welded to the oil hole on the rear stabilizer carry-thru for a grease zerk. Requires reaming aftervwelding.

Bushing welded to the tail spring fitting. Needs to be sanded smooth so the bolt and washer sit flat on the fitting.
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You can also add some tabs around the bolt head to keep it from spinning. Sure is nice to have a person like Steve rebuild your cub. The guy who recovered mine neglected to put several inspection covers back in place. After the razor blade it is air brush time.
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We take a sharp tip burr and center up the holes for the boot cowl screws and install 6-32 nut plate in them. Also knock out the riv-nuts at the trailing edge of the skylight and the leading edge of the long top wing root fairing adjacent the fuel tank cover and install nut plates there as well.
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Made and welded tabs in for the belly pod. They are shorter than the tabs you fish through the slit in your fabric and around the longer on so I have to use a long turn barrel in place of the short one that comes with the Alaska Bush Pod. Also figured out I would have had a problem with that slip over the longer on clamp and the bottom leg of the dog leg for the larger baggage door opening. Glad we welded tabs on.
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You can also add some tabs around the bolt head to keep it from spinning. Sure is nice to have a person like Steve rebuild your cub. The guy who recovered mine neglected to put several inspection covers back in place. After the razor blade it is air brush time.
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Excellent idea, just remember that "all AN bolts" are not created equal. The relationship between the face of the hex and the OD of the grip is not always exactly the same and symmetrical. If these tabs are tight for one bolt, the next bolt may or may not fit.
 
Well it has been a while. Finished the recover of this Clipped Winged Cub.
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Repaired this damaged Pacer.
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Completed the rebuild on this Super Cub.
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Completed my usual annual and condition inspections and have gone from 4 employees to none. I am now getting back to Super Cub 91246 full time. I have some pictures to catch up on since my daughter got everything covered except the fuselage before she and her husband moved out of town. I will try and catch up the progress in both pictures and dialog and keep this thread up as the airplane comes together. Thankfully Jason has been a very understanding owner. :oops:
 

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For some reason the last two Super Cubs I have rebuilt have had this issue of the bottom of the fuel tank rubbing on the channel brace between the butt rib and the front spar. The short wing aircraft have felt glued on these channels. Because of this the last time I order felt a got a roll of 3/8" and 1/2" to glue to these channels.

We stripped the paint in the damaged ares and my welder buddy welded them up and welded the front fuel pick up bung into the right wing tank for the Dakota Cub header less fuel system STC.
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Sent from my SM-N900V using SuperCub.Org mobile app
 
He was a happy camper. Took some time to get him up to speed on the CGR30P and the Trig radios. The paint scheme took a lot of head scratching but I like that year model as well. Now Eaton has someone to blame when he gets a phone call from the Feds.
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Cool interior selections, must have hired a designer :lol:

Yep, that would be the collaboration between you and Tabitha. Joe did say that coming down and seeing your Super Cub when it was done cost him a lot of money. Up until that point it was suppose to be just a recover. I always say there is what you know needs to be done, what you find when you get it apart and the "while we are here we might as well..." 8)
 
Joe's cub is indeed as nice in person as it is in the pics. Not sure anything could be improved on the panel. Even with a lot of the small mods it still looks like a stock -18 which is what Joe wanted.....just needs bigger tires and I am holding on to a set of 100hr 31"s hoping to one day convert him to the dark side!
 
Can you school me on the iPad mount, software app that he is running, and supporting hardware that is required to run this system?
 
Can you school me on the iPad mount, software app that he is running, and supporting hardware that is required to run this system?

Software is ForeFlight. To run the attitude indicator like he is requires a Stratus 2S or a homebuilt Stratux with an AHRS module. Not sure on the mount.
 
Software is ForeFlight. To run the attitude indicator like he is requires a Stratus 2S or a homebuilt Stratux with an AHRS module. Not sure on the mount.

Actually, the display says "no attitude information." Either no AHRS or it is turned off. You can still get the synthetic vision without the Stratus.
 
So we got back from a great trip to Johnson Creek and I am back on the Super Cub. been going through all the parts that were tagged and bagged when we disassembled the airplane. Got the steel parts blasted, epoxy primed and then top coated with polyurethane. Then made huge list to order from both Aircraft Spruce and Univair. Over the years with the disassembly of 5 original, never recovered Super Cubs and all the drawings I have collected I have come up with a pretty good hardware list for each assembly as noted in each page of my Super Cub parts manual. So I have been assembling sub-assemblies and putting all the new hardware in bags to go with the others parts and putting it in my parts cabinet. I hate looking for parts. Since I got back Sac (Sneak Attack Cat) was a bit lonely, curious and wanted some attention or perhaps just to help.
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Rudder pedals were worn where the springs wrap around pretty good for 1600 hours.
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I have welded a tube inside the tube but we decided to replace the pedals along with the return springs since they tend to wear at the radius and break. Had a Super Cub here on Sunday with 2000 hrs with a broken rudder return spring.
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The later model Super Cubs had the short stick used in the rear in the front as well. Ordered a new front, long stick from Dakota Cub. It is a bit tight on the stick stub so I had to use a flapper wheel to clean out a little material to get the two to fit together. Then I took the stick up to my buddy Lan at Young County Machine to drill the hole in the stick on his mill. Fit perfect, not reaming required. Don't know what I would do without Lan half a block up the street.
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