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Eatons new and improved heat vent mod

There you go, same concept. I don't have underseat battery


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Apparently heat business has been so good, Steve's taken to advertising.
 

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I would really like to throw in my 2 cents (worth of material) here:

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Actually, the big problem with my heater, besides the smell of burning rubber from my shoes, is that it tends to cook my avionics. No failures yet, but it worries me....
 
We are not in any danger of burning our boots in the sport Cubs with our heat output. Will put up some pix later when I get home.

(Not wanting to steal Jim's thunder, after all he is the inventor and patent holder but here's a sneak preview of Jim's handy work. VT Glenn)



I flew 110 miles to Portland Maine. 28 degrees outside and was able to fly with no jacket and gloves. Here is what i did

1 First thing is to call Zack in parts at CubCrafters and order a window seal kit. It makes a big difference and the weatherstripping is superior to the stuff at Lowes. I have a few more spots to seal yet but it really helps. This is probably the lowest hanging fruit

2 I got the following stuff off Amazon


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This is an 82mm x 82 mm Vantech tornado computer cooling fan. Blows like hell, draws little amps, its 12 v

3 Added a DC voltage controller, its a Yeeco 12 v DC volt
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4 Added a cigarette lighter adapter with a switch and a fuse

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5 Put the controller in a plastic box

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I had my friend John the tinknocker make me a custom piece of aluminum that fits on the floor to mount the fan. I have it taped with alum tape because I want to take the whole thing out quickly in the spring
John can be reached by text at 207-341-1063 and can make you one and ship as well. I dont know what he is going to charge $$ Hes a honest and hardworking guy, even though he has a beard like ZZ Top

It looks like this on the floor of the cub. It really not in the way of my size 13

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I velcro the rotary controller to a lighter adapter I use, its easy to shut off with the switch, since the cub assc socket is live all the time

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Its my first attempt, i know it looks like polish farmers assembled it. It does blow out more heat without question.
if you run it in the hangar wide open, you can go up front to the intake and the suction is noticeable. I need to do some outside temps/ heat output temps on different days to compare. A big underlying issue is the single heat muff on one header pipe is not enough heat.
I am sending a setup to my Pheasant King Corp aviation facility in VT to try, I know he will give it a workout. The whole lashup weighs less than 2 lbs, and can be removed in 3 minutes. The parts from Amazon were less than 50 bucks Fire away, looking for ideas, so shoot bullets at my balloon. I would really like to see it come from CC done by guys who know how to do this stuff, but I understand its more weight and complexity, not what we all look for in LSA

jim​



 
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Uncle Steve,

Not that JB Weld is not good stuff, but if you want, I might be able to weld one of these up as a welding project in my quest to learn all things TIG.

But I don't want to steal your thunder, let me know if you want a 'project' part.
 
Uncle Steve,

Not that JB Weld is not good stuff, but if you want, I might be able to weld one of these up as a welding project in my quest to learn all things TIG.

But I don't want to steal your thunder, let me know if you want a 'project' part.

Tig welding is fun. you just need to practice a lot
 
Just received a care package from Maine.
Thank you Jim!
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Tig welding is fun. you just need to practice a lot

I agree. Headed your way, JB said I can practice all I want on a frame. It is even painted so will show cracks if I heat it more than I should.:lol:

Seriously, been working on aluminum first. Best advice I got, after the fact, start simple. a multi angled, multi sided gas tank was not the best project to start on:oops:

Have come 4130 to do now when I get home. And stainless...
 
Did/is anyone reproducing these? This is exactly what I was thinking of but if someone has already made them I'd be interested in buying instead of making.

Ryan
 
Not that I know of but I bet Larry vetterman could get it done. By the way, I reread the thread and all the comments about the jb weld. HA it’s still holding up, no cracks, no problems at all. Linda really enjoyed the heat at the WAD this year.


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I’ll install one for you Ryan, just might take me a week, or three, and I’d have to named on your insurance. [emoji56]


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Not that I know of but I bet Larry vetterman could get it done. By the way, I reread the thread and all the comments about the jb weld. HA it’s still holding up, no cracks, no problems at all. Linda really enjoyed the heat at the WAD this year.


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JB Weld and you go hand in hand. Never heard back from Lee's text about Oklahoma?
 
You guys make things way too complicated. Got the y from spruce. Can't remember where I got the 2 inch flange, probably off an old heat shroud. Plenty of heat comes out both openings. if you're getting too much stick a glove in itKIMG0682.jpeg

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I copied S2D. Might require a few tweaks. I have an idea for a retainer tab to hold it onto the firewall and possibly a deflector for front and maybe a splitter for the back depending on what the lady thinks after some seat time. Currently the rear is loose so it could be moved around. She should almost stick it up her pant leg, maybe that’ll keep her happy. 56185508918__F6045EB3-3578-402E-86FD-8A6700FA6372.JPG56185511654__1B66B65E-17F7-4F57-A496-A69033B8BD68.JPG


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1508102255315.jpgSo, when your heat vent blows directly against your brake activator cylinders, and it's a cool morning, and you top off the fluid, and you fly around a while with the heater on, and you touch down on the flats......CLANG!!!! (cash registers)

*Brand new kit-built cub, with slats, no less...being rebuilt by an Ak guy, right now....
 

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My heat go's direct from firewall to backseat right over the top of the brakes. I have wondered if it could heat them enough to cause that problem. I might try to come up with some type of insulation around to tube to keep the heat away from the batteries.
DENNY
 
I thought I was the only one to ever bend a prop due to heated brake cylinders. Locked up the left unit the rear heat was blowing on on a PA-18A. A few landings warmed the brakes and the combo did...well looking at the ground was different.

Gary
 
You guys got to enlighten me on this heating of the master cylinder. It actually got hot enough to cause expansion to compress the pads? Those are some tight brakes! And hot heater duct. Now I was planing on doing the same thing on my Javron but Should I really be concerned about warming up the master cylinder(stock Scott)?

Blue Skies
 
I don't run mine under the seat. I make it long enough and run it along the side. Back seater can use it to warm anything they want even defrost their glasses and I can take it and defrost the windshield or side windows or myself.

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I had factory Scott masters with new diaphragms and a two-piece 2" SCAT duct going from AD's defroster adapter to the rear area under the front seat. SCAT can be screwed together and the rear piece had been crushed and due for replacement so the front section terminated near the left master. Mechanic's helper had just pre-loaded the brake system with fluid (old style 4" bladder/pad brakes) and the left master got hot from the combination of braking and heater hose. The plane slid the left tire on grass but stopped on gravel with no brakes applied. Power was idle and prop scraped a couple of times but no nose-over. We had to open the brake filler cap to release fluid so the truck could drag the plane to the hangar for a cold beer.

Gary
 
My heat go's direct from firewall to backseat right over the top of the brakes. I have wondered if it could heat them enough to cause that problem. I might try to come up with some type of insulation around to tube to keep the heat away from the batteries.
DENNY

I'm kinda surprised, I'd never heard of it being an issue.... but I guess it makes sense if you really pump the brakes up that much... shouldn't be an issue with steve's or dakota's masters....
 
I'm kinda surprised, I'd never heard of it being an issue.... but I guess it makes sense if you really pump the brakes up that much... shouldn't be an issue with steve's or dakota's masters....
These were not stock Scott’s, but I don’t know which kind they actually were....
 
If I remember right (age and whine effects that) a while back someone made a post about brake issue when adding fluid in cold hanger and going flying on a hot day. That is what got me thinking about the issue. Does going along the side effect foot work from rear seat?
DENNY
 
So, when your heat vent blows directly against your brake activator cylinders, and it's a cool morning, and you top off the fluid, and you fly around a while with the heater on, and you touch down on the flats......

You guys got to enlighten me on this heating of the master cylinder. It actually got hot enough to cause expansion to compress the pads? Those are some tight brakes! And hot heater duct. Now I was planing on doing the same thing on my Javron but Should I really be concerned about warming up the master cylinder(stock Scott)?

I'm kinda surprised, I'd never heard of it being an issue.... but I guess it makes sense if you really pump the brakes up that much...

If I remember right a while back someone made a post about brake issue when adding fluid in cold hanger and going flying on a hot day. That is what got me thinking about the issue. Does going along the side effect foot work from rear seat?
This can happen with the North River booster mod on the original Scott masters when coupled with Cleveland disc brakes. When you have the fluid topped off so that there is a very short pedal travel to apply the brakes any expansion due to heat can drag or lock the brakes. The reverse can also happen if you top them off in a warm hangar then push it out into the cold. Unfortunately this is a drawback with this closed tight system.

This is a mod which I made to eliminate the issue. There is a brass needle valve in place of the filler cap which connects a reservoir to each master cylinder. The valve can be reached in flight enough so that you can open and close the valve which will "normalize" the fluid pressure to whatever the ambient temperature is.
SMITHCUBPetes042.jpg Alternatively, don't top off the cylinder. Leave an air bubble in the adapter for expansion purposes.
 

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