We are not in any danger of burning our boots in the sport Cubs with our heat output. Will put up some pix later when I get homeJim, can't wait until you unveil ours.
We are not in any danger of burning our boots in the sport Cubs with our heat output. Will put up some pix later when I get home.
(Not wanting to steal Jim's thunder, after all he is the inventor and patent holder but here's a sneak preview of Jim's handy work. VT Glenn)
I flew 110 miles to Portland Maine. 28 degrees outside and was able to fly with no jacket and gloves. Here is what i did
1 First thing is to call Zack in parts at CubCrafters and order a window seal kit. It makes a big difference and the weatherstripping is superior to the stuff at Lowes. I have a few more spots to seal yet but it really helps. This is probably the lowest hanging fruit
2 I got the following stuff off Amazon
This is an 82mm x 82 mm Vantech tornado computer cooling fan. Blows like hell, draws little amps, its 12 v
3 Added a DC voltage controller, its a Yeeco 12 v DC volt
4 Added a cigarette lighter adapter with a switch and a fuse
5 Put the controller in a plastic box
I had my friend John the tinknocker make me a custom piece of aluminum that fits on the floor to mount the fan. I have it taped with alum tape because I want to take the whole thing out quickly in the spring
John can be reached by text at 207-341-1063 and can make you one and ship as well. I dont know what he is going to charge $$ Hes a honest and hardworking guy, even though he has a beard like ZZ Top
It looks like this on the floor of the cub. It really not in the way of my size 13
I velcro the rotary controller to a lighter adapter I use, its easy to shut off with the switch, since the cub assc socket is live all the time
Its my first attempt, i know it looks like polish farmers assembled it. It does blow out more heat without question.
if you run it in the hangar wide open, you can go up front to the intake and the suction is noticeable. I need to do some outside temps/ heat output temps on different days to compare. A big underlying issue is the single heat muff on one header pipe is not enough heat.
I am sending a setup to my Pheasant King Corp aviation facility in VT to try, I know he will give it a workout. The whole lashup weighs less than 2 lbs, and can be removed in 3 minutes. The parts from Amazon were less than 50 bucks Fire away, looking for ideas, so shoot bullets at my balloon. I would really like to see it come from CC done by guys who know how to do this stuff, but I understand its more weight and complexity, not what we all look for in LSA
jim
Uncle Steve,
Not that JB Weld is not good stuff, but if you want, I might be able to weld one of these up as a welding project in my quest to learn all things TIG.
But I don't want to steal your thunder, let me know if you want a 'project' part.
Tig welding is fun. you just need to practice a lot
JB Weld and you go hand in hand. Never heard back from Lee's text about Oklahoma?Not that I know of but I bet Larry vetterman could get it done. By the way, I reread the thread and all the comments about the jb weld. HA it’s still holding up, no cracks, no problems at all. Linda really enjoyed the heat at the WAD this year.
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I’ll install one for you Ryan, just might take me a week, or three, and I’d have to named on your insurance. [emoji56]
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My heat go's direct from firewall to backseat right over the top of the brakes. I have wondered if it could heat them enough to cause that problem. I might try to come up with some type of insulation around to tube to keep the heat away from the batteries.
DENNY
These were not stock Scott’s, but I don’t know which kind they actually were....I'm kinda surprised, I'd never heard of it being an issue.... but I guess it makes sense if you really pump the brakes up that much... shouldn't be an issue with steve's or dakota's masters....
So, when your heat vent blows directly against your brake activator cylinders, and it's a cool morning, and you top off the fluid, and you fly around a while with the heater on, and you touch down on the flats......
You guys got to enlighten me on this heating of the master cylinder. It actually got hot enough to cause expansion to compress the pads? Those are some tight brakes! And hot heater duct. Now I was planing on doing the same thing on my Javron but Should I really be concerned about warming up the master cylinder(stock Scott)?
I'm kinda surprised, I'd never heard of it being an issue.... but I guess it makes sense if you really pump the brakes up that much...
This can happen with the North River booster mod on the original Scott masters when coupled with Cleveland disc brakes. When you have the fluid topped off so that there is a very short pedal travel to apply the brakes any expansion due to heat can drag or lock the brakes. The reverse can also happen if you top them off in a warm hangar then push it out into the cold. Unfortunately this is a drawback with this closed tight system.If I remember right a while back someone made a post about brake issue when adding fluid in cold hanger and going flying on a hot day. That is what got me thinking about the issue. Does going along the side effect foot work from rear seat?