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Thread: Telling stabilizer LH and RH apart

  1. #1

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    Telling stabilizer LH and RH apart

    all essambly reinforce facing up.jpgreinforce facing up.jpgHi
    We are working on a P18 1954 and covering using the Stewart system. Everything has worked great sofar, except we realise the two stabilizers have different part numbers but we fail to tell them apart. As far as we can see they are identical except here are a couple reinforcing pieces that are welded on one side only. So you can choose to mount the stabilizer with these facing up or down. Any advice would be appreciated, perhaps its a non issue but.....

    Cheers
    Åke
    Last edited by Aake; 04-12-2019 at 02:00 PM.

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    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Never knew there was a left and right. Choose whatever


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  3. #3

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    can you show a picture of the reinforcing pieces? and are you using a new cross tube? you guys here, which stab takes the biggest beating from the prop?
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    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    The prettier surface goes up


    Glenn
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    Don't turn around and look. Fabric wise, they both seem to survive. Those gear legs don't.
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  6. #6

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    Reply and pict

    Thanks for input Have included a pict facing down


    Quote Originally Posted by tempdoug View Post
    can you show a picture of the reinforcing pieces? and are you using a new cross tube? you guys here, which stab takes the biggest beating from the prop?

  7. #7

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    ive heard of but not seen it where the connecting tubes have broke because of being drilled a couple of times for the bolts, just wanted these guys to see if it was up in the tube connecting area. ive seen it on 180s where they will break the tube mounts off the frame. besure to look real close for any cracks where the connecting tube mounts are welded to the frame. how many horse is yours? On mine, i put a grease zerc where the connecting tubes go through. Just adding the only reason i can figure out for different rh and lh in the parts book would be drain grommets or the way it was covered on a covered stab, just a guess. and your reinforced one is like the univair one below and the other is like original. so maybe one was replaced at one time?
    Last edited by tempdoug; 04-12-2019 at 05:13 PM.
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    Last edited by tempdoug; 04-12-2019 at 04:51 PM.

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    I always thought an even part number was 'left', and odd numbers are 'right'.

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  11. #11

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    You may be right with the grommets as reason for the left right part number since you buy them covered. Also I think your comment about the condition of the pipe and the holes is important we are just about to have a certified welder add curved brackets to the stabiliser tubes, alined with the holes in the tubes connecting the two halves.

    Thanks again for the comments
    Facing down.jpgd

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    Sorry for not getting the hang of how to post replies and pictures in logic order, but i hope to learn.

    Åke
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  13. #13
    S2D's Avatar
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    Put the plates on top so there is less chance of corrosion down the road.

    Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
    I may be wrong but that probably won't stop me from arguing about it.
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  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by bob turner View Post
    Don't turn around and look.
    No kidding! I scare my self to death every time I turn around and look at the tail feathers especially under high power and low airspeed. How they last I’ll never know.

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    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Are you using new liner tubes? if not install them like they came off. The holes are not exact. If new liner tubes are used you will have to drill them in place so it won't matter. We put our seam on the bottom when covering.
    Steve Pierce

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  16. #16
    Marty57's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    We put our seam on the bottom when covering.
    I'm with Steve on the seam. When I teach our seminars, easiest way to remember this is put your first application of glue on the top of piece, pretty side up. That will put the seam on the opposite side, out of site on tail feathers. Rudder is a different story, you need to make both sides look nice.
    Marty
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marty57 View Post
    I'm with Steve on the seam. When I teach our seminars, easiest way to remember this is put your first application of glue on the top of piece, pretty side up. That will put the seam on the opposite side, out of site on tail feathers. Rudder is a different story, you need to make both sides look nice.
    Marty
    I am either having an age related or dyslexic moment here.
    I visualize if putting first glue on top, this is applying the top skin first, which leaves the wrap from the lower skin to have the seam on top.

    I have always installed the lower skin first so that when the upper skin goes on last the seam is on the underside of the tail.
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  18. #18
    Marty57's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharlieN View Post
    I am either having an age related or dyslexic moment here.
    I visualize if putting first glue on top, this is applying the top skin first, which leaves the wrap from the lower skin to have the seam on top.

    I have always installed the lower skin first so that when the upper skin goes on last the seam is on the underside of the tail.
    You are correct, you do put the lower covering on first. This image should help:

    glue applicatioin.jpg



    First step is apply the glue and let it tack up (light green). Next, apply the blue layer of fabric on the side shown. It wraps past the tangent point, inside the tube where the seem will be hidden. Next, another layer of glue (dark green), let tack up. Next, cover top of panel with the red layer of fabric. This red layer of fabric ends with a surface seem on the under-side of the panel. This seem will be visible under the pinked tapes that finish off the panel, no seem on the top side. By applying the light green glue on what will become the pretty or view side first, it puts that seem out of sight on the bottom.
    Hope that makes sense.
    Marty
    Last edited by Marty57; 04-13-2019 at 01:21 PM. Reason: fixing image
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  19. #19
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    Stab Covering

    I know nothing about this but this drawing seems to confirm things as Piper saw it.
    Stew
    Attached Images Attached Images
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  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marty57 View Post
    You are correct, you do put the lower covering on first. This image should help:

    glue applicatioin.jpg

    Marty
    Just where my mind had the wrong image was the "glue on top" which is correct but I have always put the glue on a 270° wrap, as in your image here would be full contact of the lower surface. My mind saw it as top surface adhesive.
    I may well have always gone too far with that first application of glue but those were jobs I did in the mid 80's. We could only learn from who you could drive too back then.
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  21. #21
    Marty57's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharlieN View Post
    Just where my mind had the wrong image was the "glue on top" which is correct but I have always put the glue on a 270° wrap, as in your image here would be full contact of the lower surface. My mind saw it as top surface adhesive.
    I may well have always gone too far with that first application of glue but those were jobs I did in the mid 80's. We could only learn from who you could drive too back then.
    When I teach covering, I try to convey the 270* as you mentioned. Easiest way for me to communicate the concept is that after the first application of glue, you should be able to set the piece flat on a table and no glue should touch the table. The second layer of glue should be same, not touch the table when applied. My drawing shows the dark green glue line a bit further than desired.

    I am amazed at the time and effort needed before the internet to communicate and get help. Anytime I have a question these days I just post it here and BAM ........ answers. AND ...... the answers are correct

    Marty
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