What is the difference between the AN130-8S and the AN130-16S?
AN130-8S assemblies use 6-40 threaded components, and the AN130-16S assemblies use 10-32 threaded components. The -8S is a smaller diameter and thread size than the -16S.
Probably, screwing the next guy that works on it because he has to custom fabricate to match what you did rather than buy a part that conforms to the type certificate.
I feel you but it does seem to be a better solution.
I can assure you, that is not my intentions. I respect you as a cub expert and appreciate your knowledgeable mechanical inputs, but take offense to your unfounded comment. Screwing someone, as you put it, has NEVER been my intention in anything I do.Probably, screwing the next guy that works on it because he has to custom fabricate to match what you did rather than buy a part that conforms to the type certificate.
Solution to what? Two rudder cables the same length with a plate with holes to adjust how far the rudder pedals come back from the firewall. Not a closed loop control system like Aileron's or elevators. Why comucate a simple system?
So you want to use a turn barrel on the rudder. You will need to use the Piper forks that cost about $50 each to fit the rudder bell crank without grinding material off of it. From the questions you have asked here in recent months I have come to the conclusion that you don't know what you are doing and also assume you have no certification to do it either. Sorry but these are my observations and opinions. Having worked on Cubs and Super Cubs rebuilt by people who didn't know what they were doing I have become kind of bias to such practice as have the owners when they recieved the bill. I can see you rebuilding your Cub under the supervision of a knowledgeable mechanic that could advice you to common procedures and practices but it doesn't appear to be the case here. If you ever had someone come inot your shop for you to replace a rudder cable on their Cub only to find out that the guy before you built his own custom cable and now you have to reverse engineer what he did or replace both of them with approved parts so you don't get hung out to dry down the road you might feel differently. Maybe I am being an ass but I can assure you I have become a grumpy ass mechanic because of things like this. They tend to turn simple jobs into snowballs or worse. For instance how do you intend to test these cables that you are manufacturing?I can assure you, that is not my intentions. I respect you as a cub expert and appreciate your knowledgeable mechanical inputs, but take offense to your unfounded comment. Screwing someone, as you put it, has NEVER been my intention in anything I do.
So you want to use a turn barrel on the rudder. You will need to use the Piper forks that cost about $50 each to fit the rudder bell crank without grinding material off of it. From the questions you have asked here in recent months I have come to the conclusion that you don't know what you are doing and also assume you have no certification to do it either. Sorry but these are my observations and opinions. Having worked on Cubs and Super Cubs rebuilt by people who didn't know what they were doing I have become kind of bias to such practice as have the owners when they recieved the bill. I can see you rebuilding your Cub under the supervision of a knowledgeable mechanic that could advice you to common procedures and practices but it doesn't appear to be the case here. If you ever had someone come inot your shop for you to replace a rudder cable on their Cub only to find out that the guy before you built his own custom cable and now you have to reverse engineer what he did or replace both of them with approved parts so you don't get hung out to dry down the road you might feel differently. Maybe I am being an ass but I can assure you I have become a grumpy ass mechanic because of things like this. They tend to turn simple jobs into snowballs or worse
Amazing how a simple question can snowball out of effect. Sorry I ask questions, I thought that was kinda what these forums were about, to ask questions and share experiences. Do I know what I'm doing? I hope so. I ask questions sometimes to help confirm what I'm doing ( since it's been awhile since I worked on Cubs)........or just to get an answer, or to get others opinions on how to tackle something. I worked in a shop for several years under the supervision of an IA. I've rebuilt 5 cubs over the years, one of which took a "Best Craftsmanship Award" at the Arlington WA flying years ago, I have owned 4 different cubs and have been flying them for 50 years. Yes I have a knowledgeable mechanic overseeing my every move on my project, but sometimes it's easier to ask a question on here, and like I said, you get different inputs on ways of doing things.
Not sure what I ever said or did to put a burr under your saddle, but I can again assure you I'm not out to screw anyone, and I won't belittle anyone when responding to a simple question. By the way, I'm converting a J-3 to a PA-11, with numerous STC's from Atlee Dodge and other sources. Have been in touch with the local FSDO informing them of my plans from day one of this project also.
Wow. Ask a question over a cup of coffee, get blasted like a criminal. This site ain’t what it used to be. Some community.
and the answer to your question is the 10-32 size
Yea, some of us are just ass holes Stewart but I took the time to explain my opinion. Walk in my shoes and you might see it differently.
So you want to use a turn barrel on the rudder. You will need to use the Piper forks that cost about $50 each to fit the rudder bell crank without grinding material off of it. From the questions you have asked here in recent months I have come to the conclusion that you don't know what you are doing and also assume you have no certification to do it either. Sorry but these are my observations and opinions. Having worked on Cubs and Super Cubs rebuilt by people who didn't know what they were doing I have become kind of bias to such practice as have the owners when they recieved the bill. I can see you rebuilding your Cub under the supervision of a knowledgeable mechanic that could advice you to common procedures and practices but it doesn't appear to be the case here. If you ever had someone come inot your shop for you to replace a rudder cable on their Cub only to find out that the guy before you built his own custom cable and now you have to reverse engineer what he did or replace both of them with approved parts so you don't get hung out to dry down the road you might feel differently. Maybe I am being an ass but I can assure you I have become a grumpy ass mechanic because of things like this. They tend to turn simple jobs into snowballs or worse. For instance how do you intend to test these cables that you are manufacturing?
So you want to use a turn barrel on the rudder. You will need to use the Piper forks that cost about $50 each to fit the rudder bell crank without grinding material off of it. From the questions you have asked here in recent months I have come to the conclusion that you don't know what you are doing and also assume you have no certification to do it either. Sorry but these are my observations and opinions. Having worked on Cubs and Super Cubs rebuilt by people who didn't know what they were doing I have become kind of bias to such practice as have the owners when they recieved the bill. I can see you rebuilding your Cub under the supervision of a knowledgeable mechanic that could advice you to common procedures and practices but it doesn't appear to be the case here. If you ever had someone come inot your shop for you to replace a rudder cable on their Cub only to find out that the guy before you built his own custom cable and now you have to reverse engineer what he did or replace both of them with approved parts so you don't get hung out to dry down the road you might feel differently. Maybe I am being an ass but I can assure you I have become a grumpy ass mechanic because of things like this. They tend to turn simple jobs into snowballs or worse
Amazing how a simple question can snowball out of effect. Sorry I ask questions, I thought that was kinda what these forums were about, to ask questions and share experiences. Do I know what I'm doing? I hope so. I ask questions sometimes to help confirm what I'm doing ( since it's been awhile since I worked on Cubs)........or just to get an answer, or to get others opinions on how to tackle something. I worked in a shop for several years under the supervision of an IA. I've rebuilt 5 cubs over the years, one of which took a "Best Craftsmanship Award" at the Arlington WA flying years ago, I have owned 4 different cubs and have been flying them for 50 years. Yes I have a knowledgeable mechanic overseeing my every move on my project, but sometimes it's easier to ask a question on here, and like I said, you get different inputs on ways of doing things.
Not sure what I ever said or did to put a burr under your saddle, but I can again assure you I'm not out to screw anyone, and I won't belittle anyone when responding to a simple question. By the way, I'm converting a J-3 to a PA-11, with numerous STC's from Atlee Dodge and other sources. Have been in touch with the local FSDO informing them of my plans from day one of this project also.
Now that you have finished editing your responce I will respond. No burr, I explained why I feel like I do. You never answered my question on how you intended to test your cables. You asked in another post where the rudder pedals should sit so you could get the length of the cables. Things like this make me go wow. The thing I like about Piper is that all of the drawings are available as well as the parts. I have a lot of drawings from the Cub Club as well as all of the Cub Clues. I can not imagine trying to rebuild one of these airplanes with the obvious lack of the original parts like it appears you are doing without the data available. I remember early on when I gave you grief for a question you ended up buying a parts manual. I guess I would rather do my due dilagence and gather the available data prior to asking what hardware and what length should I make my cables.
You are correct and if the original poster had looked at the parts manual he would realize that. I have never had an issue rigging rudder pedals on anything Piper built with the tabs at the rudder.PIPER DIDN'T USE them on ALL models.... some, you must use turn buckles if you want adjustment..... I do.... just because someone screwed up 70 or 80 years ago doesn't mean they are right!!... geesh.. relax little!!
Bash people? I felt like I stated my opinion and why I formed that opinion. Don't see where me being a moderator has a dam thing to do with my opinion. I moderate spammers and threads on the same subject. Have you seen me use my moderator privelages in an inappropriate manner? I'll have SJ give it to you and I'll do something more constructivenot very useful comment on here steve, please HELP PEOPLE HERE! as late you seem to just bash people WHAT HAS HAPPENED TO YOU??? probably need your moderator status taken away for a while!!!
Now that you have finished editing your responce I will respond. No burr, I explained why I feel like I do. You never answered my question on how you intended to test your cables. You asked in another post where the rudder pedals should sit so you could get the length of the cables. Things like this make me go wow. The thing I like about Piper is that all of the drawings are available as well as the parts. I have a lot of drawings from the Cub Club as well as all of the Cub Clues. I can not imagine trying to rebuild one of these airplanes with the obvious lack of the original parts like it appears you are doing without the data available. I remember early on when I gave you grief for a question you ended up buying a parts manual. I guess I would rather do my due dilagence and gather the available data prior to asking what hardware and what length should I make my cables.
The reason I edited my post was, when I posted it, the first 1/2 for some reason didn't show, so had to go back and enter it. All the positive and constructive input on here is greatly appreciated.
Yes, editing it again, because I just happened to look in the Piper Cub J-3 parts list and the exploded view shows turnbuckles used for the rudders........I guess that's why decided to use them.
7-146 to be exact.43.13-1Bpart 7.