Colorado-Cub
MEMBER
Buena Vista, CO
I am aware that Wag Aero carries fiberglass 12/early-18 nose bowls, but does anyone have any suggestions for other possible sources?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Source for experimental PA12/early-18 nose bowl?
- Thread starter Colorado-Cub
- Start date
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
You want with or without oil cooler? With or without our cooler lip?
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Colorado-Cub
MEMBER
Buena Vista, CO
I did not know about the availability of an oil cooler lip, and poses an interesting option. I am currently running oil cooler behind #4, but there are problems with that setup and have been toying with the idea of moving it up front. I probably do not need the lip however as I do not have an alternator nor starter, so I could tuck it up higher than most (and might allow me to retain the current lower cowl iteration a bit longer...)
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
It really only matters if you have removed a front oil cooler and retained the factory bottom cowl with the half moon cut out. I will sell the fiberglass split nose bowl in the bottom picture for $400. It does not have any holes or fasteners installed yet.
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
Randy Apling at Carbon Concepts makes all renditions of nose bowls. http://www.carbonconceptsak.com/
Colorado-Cub
MEMBER
Buena Vista, CO
Awesome info, Steve. I really appreciate it!
I have some modifications in mind that may be a bit invasive to the nosebowl and lower cowl. Rather than destroy the currently (flying) setup, I may just bite the bullet and buy a new nose bowl. I will keep yours in mind.
I have some modifications in mind that may be a bit invasive to the nosebowl and lower cowl. Rather than destroy the currently (flying) setup, I may just bite the bullet and buy a new nose bowl. I will keep yours in mind.
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
Haven’t heard of anyone moving an oil cooler back up front. Just moving them from front to rear........
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mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
Colorado-Cub
MEMBER
Buena Vista, CO
You are sure to be bored by the end of this, but you asked!
I was initially chasing some CHT problems on #4 due to my thin hot air in Colorado and what turned out to be the lack of the "oil filter adapter plate". A little oil metering plate is sandwiched between two gaskets between the accessory case and the oil filter adapter housing and is crucial for low-RPM engine oil pressure on an O235. I am sure Steve Pierce is nodding his head right now as he has experience with the little O235.
Item #4 in the below graphic:
Without that metering plate, the most common symptom is low oil pressure when at low idle and hot (when the vernatherm is open). Another side effect of when the plate is not installed is that the oil is not circulated through the oil cooler/accessory/lines/etc as direct. The oil looks cool on the temp sensor but can be coking inside the cooler. That problem coupled to a baffle that was built too close to the #4 cylinder fins led to some bad CHTs only on #4. Rebuilding the rear baffle to allow more air volume between the oil cooler face and the cylinder fins helped tremendously with the CHTs, but I did not find the missing oil metering plate until later.
Now I am looking to strike the right balance between air flow across the oil cooler and air flow across that rear cylinder. I find I need more air flow across the oil cooler in the summer to keep the oil temps reasonable, but the escaping air directly out the back of #4 and not around #4 cylinder is leading to (slightly) higher CHTs again. With the metering plate installed the whole cooling system now responds to changes as I would expect it to, so I am tempted to do some testing with the oil cooler up front to decouple the dual-purposing of the air flow around that #4 cylinder. I don't want to pressurize my lower cowl, but a new cool source of air for the oil cooler might be beneficial. Who knows -- won't know until I test it out, right?
For most people this would never be a problem as you guys have thick air which masks much of the above, but I am often in 90 degree days at 10-12KMSL with a anemic little motor. An O235 might put out an honest 100HP at the RPM it can actually attain at sea level, so I am probably closer to 50-60HP when I get up to 12-14K. Until I bolt on a 320, I have been slowly stripping everything I can off my airplane to save weight in hopes of making the high hot days a bit easier. The starter was the latest casualty, so rather than glass up the old one to plug the starter hole (it may go back on someday), I was tempted to build up a new one hence this original topic...
Attachments
Steve Pierce
BENEFACTOR
Graham, TX
Here is a good thread on this issue with the O-235.
http://www.shortwingpipers.org/forum/showthread.php?7264-Oil-Filter-Adapter-on-the-O-235-C1
http://www.shortwingpipers.org/forum/showthread.php?7264-Oil-Filter-Adapter-on-the-O-235-C1
mike mcs repair
Registered User
chugiak AK
You are sure to be bored by the end of this, but you asked!
..
Now I am looking to strike the right balance between air flow across the oil cooler and air flow across that rear cylinder. I find I need more air flow across the oil cooler in the summer to keep the oil temps reasonable, but the escaping air directly out the back of #4 and not around #4 cylinder is leading to (slightly) higher CHTs again. With the metering plate installed the whole cooling system now responds to changes as I would expect it to, so I am tempted to do some testing with the oil cooler up front to decouple the dual-purposing of the air flow around that #4 cylinder. I don't want to pressurize my lower cowl, but a new cool source of air for the oil cooler might be beneficial. Who knows -- won't know until I test it out, right?
.
dan's aircraft up here makes a oil cooler door/diverter that is just what you need the door is up high so none of the air that should be flowing on the cylinder is diverted(thinking normal left rear cooler installation)
Colorado-Cub
MEMBER
Buena Vista, CO
Sounds perfect? Like a flap of aluminum (opens at top, hinge on bottom) that diverts air down to the cylinder but also allows air above the flap/door to travel through the oil cooler?
CamTom12
Registered User
Huntsville, AL
Do you have any pictures of your current setup?
I built a small fixed diverter between my #4 an oil cooler. I plan to throttle oil cooler air at the exit of the oil cooler.
Colorado-Cub
MEMBER
Buena Vista, CO
I don't off hand.
I control air flow at the back of my oil cooler as well, and it that works just fine. (aluminum plate that I simply clamp on/off as needed)
The diverter is something I have seen via flapper-box-sorta-thing (or the typical vans guillotine control) , but didn't think to try via a simple curved ramp-like internal fairing to direct more air down rather than allow it to escape backwards.
