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Worth Checking the CO

SJ said:
Technically, no, but after eight hours of exposure it is considered too high, and of course what ever is causing it is likely to get worse rather than better. I had to change the exhaust pipe on the super cub from bent (Sutton) to straight as the back seat was getting a LOT of CO (through the leaks in the door).

BTW, where are people getting exhausts rebuilt now? It used to be Dawley, is that still the preferred choice?

sj
Click to expand...

Dawley put the 4 bolt flanges on your exhaust when we did the P-Ponk, not sure what else was done. Did you find a smoking gun?
 
Most recommend running 150-175d ROP Do some research in the GAMI website also as it has a wealth of info on the proper way to run your engine. Most of the articles are based "on Fuel injected engines but also will apply to carburated engines which will be running ROP mostly. The red fin area shows the area to stay away from. Search John Deakin"s "Pelican Perch" articles. There is a plethora of info there.
T
 
Capture.JPG

Pulled the muffler off the carb heat side yesterday, note the bulging. Hooked the output of a vacuum cleaner to it to pressure test and the air was hitting me in the face - so I did not even need soap bubbles to test it....

sj
 

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The heat exchanger can get too hot and warp if there's insufficient airflow through the unit. Something needs to keep that part relatively cool in flight besides intake suction.

Gary
 
I bought a pair of new mufflers for my 53 C180 from Aerospace Welding a couple years ago.
They have a PMI for manufacturing them new.
Prompt delivery & reasonable price -- $383 each in 2016, and they look great.
[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif]https://awi-ami.com/cessna-aircraft-exhaust-systems-by-make

And FWIW I've had an outfit down in the San Diego area do some exhaust repair work for me.
Not a CRS or anything but great work & prompt service at reasonable cost.
[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif]http://www.customaircraft.com/[/FONT]

[/FONT]
 
SJ said:
View attachment 41439


Pulled the muffler off the carb heat side yesterday, note the bulging. Hooked the output of a vacuum cleaner to it to pressure test and the air was hitting me in the face - so I did not even need soap bubbles to test it....

sj
Click to expand...

The way your 180 makes carb. ice maybe you should look into putting (welding) nuts on a bunch of those studs to generate for more thermal mass for heat transfer.
 
Last edited:
SJ said:
View attachment 41439

Pulled the muffler off the carb heat side yesterday, note the bulging. Hooked the output of a vacuum cleaner to it to pressure test and the air was hitting me in the face - so I did not even need soap bubbles to test it....

sj
Click to expand...

bet you got big rpm drop when pulling on carb heat... putting all that burnt air instead of fresh air!
 
Knisley makes a muffler like that. We had a misunderstanding when I got 2 new ones a year ago. I have the new modified bigger ones but they sent the old original size. We got it worked out OK.
 
In reading the manual I see the battery is replaceable and they are available for less than $5 on ebay.
I wonder if the calibration is really needed as these are certainly far more accurate than the stick on patches.
 
The new mufflers came with snacks!

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Got the headache this day:

color_run.jpg
 
Eddie Foy said:
I use this device. Seems to work well.
Available on Amazon.
$99 3 yr life

View attachment 41315
Click to expand...
I bought this, and unfortunately, it worked. It alarmed, showing about 15 ppm during initial climb, then decreased to zero during cruise. I have a Cub with an Atlee Dodge hot rod muffler. I suspect exhaust coming in the door. Anyone else with this experience?
 
Can someone explain the life cycle of these devices?
They say 3 years and I see some actually have a built in clock. So will that make them inoperative when the time runs out.
 
Smoke detectors work by either a change in ionization or light thru the smoke. CO detectors are chemical, just like the brown dot types. They do quite well lasting as long as they do.
 
Tom3holer said:
Can someone explain the life cycle of these devices?
They say 3 years and I see some actually have a built in clock. So will that make them inoperative when the time runs out.
Click to expand...

Yes I had a drager and after 750 days it won't read CO.

I bought a new one $200 and checked the CO in the cub yesterday. Normal cruise the reading was averaging 12ppm. I pulled cabin heat and the reading went down to 10 ppm, likely due to more flow of air thru the cabin..?

I reduced power to 1700 rpm, flying tail low at 55 mph for a few minutes and the reading dropped to almost zero at times.....thinking my CO is entering at the tail like MTV mentioned and when the tail drops below the stream of exhaust my numbers come down...not sure. I didn't think of 'standing' on a rudder to see if that would also make a difference.

I will look into sealing the tail area and see what the numbers do.

I took the RV8 into Wichita a couple days ago and while taxiing with a tail breeze the numbers came up to 25-30 ppm but once i got to rolling for launch the numbers went to zero and stayed there the entire flight.

Steve
(thanks for starting this thread)
 
sjohnson said:
I bought this, and unfortunately, it worked. It alarmed, showing about 15 ppm during initial climb, then decreased to zero during cruise. I have a Cub with an Atlee Dodge hot rod muffler. I suspect exhaust coming in the door. Anyone else with this experience?
Click to expand...
I have this deal in my 180, shows 20 in a hard climb, 14 in cruise but goes away if I open the side vent a bit. Same with the heater on or off, so I ordered a tail pipe extension from Texas Skyways, now I just have to convince myself I can put that round hole extension over the oval tail pipe and get it to seal up without a bunch of tape.

In the cub I have the CO probe (located under the panel) on the CGR 30 and with the AD Hot Rod exhaust it would show a bit, especially in a climb, changed to Sutton with the longer tail pipe for other reasons and have never had anything above 1 since.
 
Are the readings in your 180 with cabin air on or off? What exhaust do you have?

I had about the same readings in my 180 with stock exhaust. I Pponked and put a new AWI exhaust on and my readings are zero.
 
The exhaust is Kinsley and the muffler is pretty new. The readings were cabin air off (it was bloomen cold) and with the heater on or off. Went away with cabin air on about 1/4” of the vent open. There is exhaust staining trailing back from the cowl flap and wrapping up to the bottom of the passenger door making me suspect the door seal. We put this deal on this morning that should get the exhaust further out but it’s too gooey today for a flight. 2B17DF29-5304-4DE7-9502-DA3027945C1F.jpeg
 

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Please post the details about the extension.


OLDCROWE said:
The exhaust is Kinsley and the muffler is pretty new. The readings were cabin air off (it was bloomen cold) and with the heater on or off. Went away with cabin air on about 1/4” of the vent open. There is exhaust staining trailing back from the cowl flap and wrapping up to the bottom of the passenger door making me suspect the door seal. We put this deal on this morning that should get the exhaust further out but it’s too gooey today for a flight. View attachment 41778
Click to expand...
 
What is the panel on the side of the cowl for?

OLDCROWE said:
The exhaust is Kinsley and the muffler is pretty new. The readings were cabin air off (it was bloomen cold) and with the heater on or off. Went away with cabin air on about 1/4” of the vent open. There is exhaust staining trailing back from the cowl flap and wrapping up to the bottom of the passenger door making me suspect the door seal. We put this deal on this morning that should get the exhaust further out but it’s too gooey today for a flight. View attachment 41778
Click to expand...
 
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