Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 41 to 80 of 118

Thread: O-235 Oil Leak ID Line-Up!!

  1. #41

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    There is nothing that says that the cylinders must be replaced unless they are damaged beyond repair. With normal wear and no cracks, perhaps replace the valve guides, grind the seats and a good hone job will put them back in service.
    That sounds like a very good and pragmatic way to go


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app

  2. #42

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by DENNY View Post
    Oil turning black quickly after an oil change can be caused by excessive valve guide wear. Cover up the holes in the top baffling will help keep things cooler.
    DENNY
    Would this excessive wear also lead to high levels of oil loss per hour too?


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app

  3. #43
    skywagon8a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    SE Mass
    Posts
    8,859
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Philly5G View Post
    Would this excessive wear also lead to high levels of oil loss per hour too?
    Excessive wear of the rings and intake valve guides allows oil to be drawn into the combustion chamber where it is mixed with the gasoline and burned. Due to it's chemical properties some of it burns and some is just expelled with the exhaust. Also the worn rings allows excess combustion chamber pressures to pass the rings into the crankcase creating pressures which blows oil vapors out of the crankcase breather.

    Oil is normally consumed in the above manner though prior to the wear occurring the consumption will/should be quite low. Somewhere between 9 and 18 hours to the quart is not unusual.

    Your reported consumption is indicating worn oil control rings (the bottom rings nearest the crankcase). Also worn intake and likely exhaust valve guides. Since you reported a reasonably high compression reading on all of the cylinder it is indicated that the top compression rings are still performing their job.

    I found this on line: The maximum allowable oil consumption limits for all Textron Lycoming aircraftengines can be determined by using the following formula: .006 x BHP x 4 7.4 = Qt./Hr. Your engine .006 x 100 x 4 7.4 = 0.324 qt/hr or aprox 3 hours per quart. https://www.victor-aviation.com/pdf/...cs/SI1427B.pdf
    N1PA
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  4. #44

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    Excessive wear of the rings and intake valve guides allows oil to be drawn into the combustion chamber where it is mixed with the gasoline and burned. Due to it's chemical properties some of it burns and some is just expelled with the exhaust. Also the worn rings allows excess combustion chamber pressures to pass the rings into the crankcase creating pressures which blows oil vapors out of the crankcase breather.

    Oil is normally consumed in the above manner though prior to the wear occurring the consumption will/should be quite low. Somewhere between 9 and 18 hours to the quart is not unusual.

    Your reported consumption is indicating worn oil control rings (the bottom rings nearest the crankcase). Also worn intake and likely exhaust valve guides. Since you reported a reasonably high compression reading on all of the cylinder it is indicated that the top compression rings are still performing their job.

    I found this on line: The maximum allowable oil consumption limits for all Textron Lycoming aircraftengines can be determined by using the following formula: .006 x BHP x 4 7.4 = Qt./Hr. Your engine .006 x 100 x 4 7.4 = 0.324 qt/hr or aprox 3 hours per quart. https://www.victor-aviation.com/pdf/...cs/SI1427B.pdf
    Thanks for this! So, based on that 2 hour trip we're above the maximum allowable!! I'm going to the airfield later and will check the inside of the exhaust and also take a look for any more jellified oil in the drip pan, having cleaned it on Sunday

  5. #45

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    I know that the Pushrod Tube seals are not the main cause of the oil use, but there is oil leaking out there and I've ordered some replacement seals to at least make a start towards less wiping off I found this link http://www.n54sg.com/pushrod-seal-replacement/ but not sure if this applies to replacing the O235 seals? Can anyone confirm this, or even better, share the best way to do this? Thanks!!!

  6. #46
    skywagon8a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    SE Mass
    Posts
    8,859
    Post Thanks / Like
    Phil that description is for an angle valve engine though yours will be very much the same with just one rocker pin instead of two. In addition to the gaskets for the push rod tubes you will need rocker cover gaskets. It may be possible to reuse the push rod tube retainer spring nut safety lock plate.

    While you have the rocker arms off check the wobble of the valves in their guides.
    https://www.lycoming.com/sites/defau...0Condition.pdf
    N1PA

  7. #47
    TurboBeaver's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Northern Maine
    Posts
    644
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Philly5G View Post
    I know that the Pushrod Tube seals are not the main cause of the oil use, but there is oil leaking out there and I've ordered some replacement seals to at least make a start towards less wiping off I found this link http://www.n54sg.com/pushrod-seal-replacement/ but not sure if this applies to replacing the O235 seals? Can anyone confirm this, or even better, share the best way to do this? Thanks!!!
    Phil,
    Your now out on thin ice, from this discribtion.......... Your now in 0290 territory for oil consumption!
    I flew a Citabria(0235), yesterday that has just under 2300 hrs SMOH, and is very tired. 40 min flight. It burned exactly 1/2 quart, jet black oil same as yours. Felt about like an 85hp Continental in acceleration. He is looking for 0320! I just had an old friend top his 0235 in his Cub. Purchased it here in Maine last spring, the 0235 engine soposedly had 1200hrs since new????( Engine shop confirmed all 4 cly had atleast double that time on them) The Ferry pilot lost a mag in Watson Lk, but flew it on to Wasilla on ONE mag! The mechanic found ALOT of odditys with the engine;
    To include a cracked clyinder, they then found a rusty cam,
    Galled lifter bodys and the list went on forever, He convinced my friend to rebuild it........so they found 4 NEW clyinders down in Texas for $8500.A New Camshaft and lifters, the final tab , including Atlees "hotrod" muffler" was time it was all wraped up he was
    nearly $21,000..........
    The prop was a 74/50, it now turns it 100 rpm LESS than it did with the woreout engine! The prop is at Dominion right now being repitched to 46". Total nightmare.
    He could have bought a nice 0320 WD mid time a few weeks after he made the decision to rebuild, for $10k.
    The 150 really makes an airplane out of a Cruiser. Huge upgrade. Simple upgrade. May want to think this out very cautiously..........your pumping ALOT of oil. You could easily be pumping ALOT of $$$$ into a "dead horse" into your old engine?????
    In todays world of rip off prices for 0235/0290 parts...........its better to walk away from them and upgrade.
    Jm2cw

    Sent from my LM-X210 using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    Last edited by TurboBeaver; 03-14-2019 at 05:41 AM.
    Likes skywagon8a, BC12D-4-85 liked this post

  8. #48

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    I'm looking at doing an exchange from the O235-C to a zero timed O235-C2A. Has anyone done this changeover and is it really a plug and play with the same engine mount/baffles and exhaust? and is the power jump from 100hp to 115 REALLY noticeable?

    And is the C2A the 108hp at 2600 and 115hp at 2800 like the C1 and how achievable is getting 2800 on take off with a fixed pitch prop?!!

  9. #49

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by TurboBeaver View Post
    Phil,
    Your now out on thin ice, from this discribtion.......... Your now in 0290 territory for oil consumption!
    I flew a Citabria(0235), yesterday that has just under 2300 hrs SMOH, and is very tired. 40 min flight. It burned exactly 1/2 quart, jet black oil same as yours. Felt about like an 85hp Continental in acceleration. He is looking for 0320! I just had an old friend top his 0235 in his Cub. Purchased it here in Maine last spring, the 0235 engine soposedly had 1200hrs since new????( Engine shop confirmed all 4 cly had atleast double that time on them) The Ferry pilot lost a mag in Watson Lk, but flew it on to Wasilla on ONE mag! The mechanic found ALOT of odditys with the engine;
    To include a cracked clyinder, they then found a rusty cam,
    Galled lifter bodys and the list went on forever, He convinced my friend to rebuild it........so they found 4 NEW clyinders down in Texas for $8500.A New Camshaft and lifters, the final tab , including Atlees "hotrod" muffler" was time it was all wraped up he was
    nearly $21,000..........
    The prop was a 74/50, it now turns it 100 rpm LESS than it did with the woreout engine! The prop is at Dominion right now being repitched to 46". Total nightmare.
    He could have bought a nice 0320 WD mid time a few weeks after he made the decision to rebuild, for $10k.
    The 150 really makes an airplane out of a Cruiser. Huge upgrade. Simple upgrade. May want to think this out very cautiously..........your pumping ALOT of oil. You could easily be pumping ALOT of $$$$ into a "dead horse" into your old engine?????
    In todays world of rip off prices for 0235/0290 parts...........its better to walk away from them and upgrade.
    Jm2cw

    Sent from my LM-X210 using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    Just seen this post TurboB and after I posted my last one about the C2A. Yes, I like the sound of the O320, but all the hassle of the exhaust, baffles, ancilliaries and propeller puts me off. Is it REALLY such a SImple upgrade? If yes I'll look into it again

    I loved the effortless power of the O360 in my Pitts and would love something similar in the 12

  10. #50
    TurboBeaver's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Northern Maine
    Posts
    644
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Philly5G View Post
    Just seen this post TurboB and after I posted my last one about the C2A. Yes, I like the sound of the O320, but all the hassle of the exhaust, baffles, ancilliaries and propeller puts me off. Is it REALLY such a SImple upgrade? If yes I'll look into it again

    I loved the effortless power of the O360 in my Pitts and would love something similar in the 12
    The Kenmore STC includes simply welding sleaves onto the LOWER engine mount tubes, uses the same stock exhaust, Kenmore calls for PA18 feathers. ( this is a great mod on its own!) Some of the other STC's for an 0320, dont even require the larger tail surfaces...An 0320 is a huge boost in performance. Parts are available all over. No comparison in resale value.
    Very simple , easy mod. Baffling can probably be modified from your 0235.
    Plus it gives you ALOT of prop options, the 0235 just doesnt have. ( Standard 74" for sale everywhere over here)Best mod you could ever do to your Cruiser Phil!


    Sent from my LM-X210 using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    Last edited by TurboBeaver; 03-14-2019 at 04:18 PM.
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  11. #51

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by TurboBeaver View Post
    The Kenmore STC includes simply welding sleaves onto the LOWER engine mount tubes, uses the same stock exhaust, Kenmore calls for PA18 feathers. ( this is a great mod on its own!) Some of the other STC's for an 0320, dont even require the larger tail surfaces...An 0320 is a huge boost in performance. Parts are available all over. No comparison in resale value.
    Very simple , easy mod. Baffling can probably be modified from your 0235.
    Plus it gives you ALOT of prop options, the 0235 just doesnt have. ( Standard 74" for sale everywhere over here)Best mod you could ever do to your Cruiser Phil!


    Sent from my LM-X210 using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    WOW!!! VERY compelling and Im actually excited at the prospect!! Feels like a proper hop up upgrade too!! THANK YOU!!!


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app

  12. #52
    TurboBeaver's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Northern Maine
    Posts
    644
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Philly5G View Post
    WOW!!! VERY compelling and Im actually excited at the prospect!! Feels like a proper hop up upgrade too!! THANK YOU!!!


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    Your certainly welcome Phil, I have all the drawings for the Kenmore STC if that will help? Just start looking for a good 0320!
    Cheers
    E

    Sent from my LM-X210 using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  13. #53

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by TurboBeaver View Post
    Your certainly welcome Phil, I have all the drawings for the Kenmore STC if that will help? Just start looking for a good 0320!
    Cheers
    E

    Sent from my LM-X210 using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    And Im guessing you mean the 320 will really INCREASE the resale value?!!

    Could you possibly PM me the drawings please? Or I could pm you my email address? Thank you again


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app

  14. #54
    TurboBeaver's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Northern Maine
    Posts
    644
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Philly5G View Post
    And Im guessing you mean the 320 will really INCREASE the resale value?!!

    Could you possibly PM me the drawings please? Or I could pm you my email address? Thank you again


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    I will get them out to you Phil
    Yes I was referencing resale value, however another big plus is the flat fact that your potential pool of buyers will be much larger. A large percentage of guys that simply will walk right past a standard
    0235, and NOT consider it because of the lack of performance loaded. The same guys will often take a hard look at a 12 with
    the 0320s. So its a win /win more money/ more potential buyers

    Sent from my LG-K450 using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  15. #55

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by TurboBeaver View Post
    I will get them out to you Phil
    Yes I was referencing resale value, however another big plus is the flat fact that your potential pool of buyers will be much larger. A large percentage of guys that simply will walk right past a standard
    0235, and NOT consider it because of the lack of performance loaded. The same guys will often take a hard look at a 12 with
    the 0320s. So its a win /win more money/ more potential buyers

    Sent from my LG-K450 using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    WOW!! Sounds very compelling!! I'm looking forward to looking at the drawings!! THANK YOU!!

  16. #56
    skywagon8a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    SE Mass
    Posts
    8,859
    Post Thanks / Like
    What are the approval requirements in England? This is the STC: http://www.kenmoreairharbor.com/uplo...a4-456_ref.pdf
    N1PA
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes TurboBeaver, Philly5G liked this post

  17. #57

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    What are the approval requirements in England? This is the STC: http://www.kenmoreairharbor.com/uplo...a4-456_ref.pdf
    Ill check this out with the LAA next week


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app

  18. #58

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Philly5G View Post
    Thanks for this! So, based on that 2 hour trip we're above the maximum allowable!! I'm going to the airfield later and will check the inside of the exhaust and also take a look for any more jellified oil in the drip pan, having cleaned it on Sunday
    I checked the inside of the exhaust this afternoon, using the Mark 1 testing fingers and the inside felt basically sooty and dry and heres the evidence Any more clues in this finding folks?!!

    IMG_5041.JPGIMG_5042.JPGIMG_5043.JPG


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app

  19. #59

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    Just a guess from across the pond. It appears that the oil control rings may be tired allowing oil into the combustion chambers while the engine is running which would produce black wet spark plugs and a oily dirty exhaust pipe. The plugs getting oily and fouled at start up indicates residual oil in the combustion chamber from the oil control rings and/or worn valve guides. Where is the jellified oil coming from? The breather pipe? This would also be an indication of piston ring wear pressurizing the crankcase. What is the total time on the engine since overhaul? This is a symptom of a high time engine. When you pull the prop through by hand does it turn through compression easily or does it have a lot of resistance? Easily = worn rings and/or leaky valves.
    Tested the compressions via turning the prop today. Definite compression on all 4 cylinders, less than the O360 felt, but more than the O200 felt. One cylinder felt slightly more compression than the other 3, which is interesting as 3 in the early 70s and one in the late 60s, so Id have expected 1 to feel weaker than the others.

    Also looked at the bottom half of the engine and the starboard rearward side more oily than the port rearward, any clues?


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app

  20. #60
    skywagon8a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    SE Mass
    Posts
    8,859
    Post Thanks / Like
    Your oil control rings are worn out pumping oil into the combustion chamber where it is being mostly burned.
    Wash down the engine to remove all of the wet oil from the outside. Then fly it once around the traffic pattern and look for the oil leak. If you fly it too much the oil will spread around making it difficult to find the leak/s.
    N1PA
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  21. #61

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    Your oil control rings are worn out pumping oil into the combustion chamber where it is being mostly burned.
    Wash down the engine to remove all of the wet oil from the outside. Then fly it once around the traffic pattern and look for the oil leak. If you fly it too much the oil will spread around making it difficult to find the leak/s.
    Would a decent ground run (with the cowls on or off?) also be enough to generate the leaks? AND without the 80mph plus slipstream to spread the oil around?


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app

  22. #62
    skywagon8a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    SE Mass
    Posts
    8,859
    Post Thanks / Like
    That doesn't seem to work as well as a full power takeoff and climb to pattern altitude with a trip around the pattern.
    N1PA
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  23. #63

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    OK, Ill give it a go next week New 6131 tailwheel going on end of week and then were good to go

    Ian, my engineering mentor, has suggested some cylinder work we/I can do to help on the oil blow by, so I may well do this as a first and fun step


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org

  24. #64

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Philly5G View Post
    Would a decent ground run (with the cowls on or off?) also be enough to generate the leaks? AND without the 80mph plus slipstream to spread the oil around?


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    Maybe a silly question, but do I need to remove the baffles to give it a really good clean? Or just the cowls and then clean it with cloths/paper towels and spray on degreasers?


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app

  25. #65
    skywagon8a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    SE Mass
    Posts
    8,859
    Post Thanks / Like
    Just wash it down with a solvent to get the mess off. Then with the short flight you will be able to see where the origin of the leaks are. Though it does appear that the biggest culprit is burning.
    N1PA
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  26. #66

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    Just wash it down with a solvent to get the mess off. Then with the short flight you will be able to see where the origin of the leaks are. Though it does appear that the biggest culprit is burning.
    Now Ive fitted the longer oil filler, Im pretty relaxed about pouring oil in just to be burnt Its the wiping oil off my lovely clean plane that I really dont like!!


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app

  27. #67
    skywagon8a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    SE Mass
    Posts
    8,859
    Post Thanks / Like
    Another thought, are you filling the oil to the top or leaving it a quart low? A lot of plane are happy running a quart low. Sometimes just filling to the top throws out the first quart, though I don't think it will be that simple for you.
    N1PA
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  28. #68

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    Another thought, are you filling the oil to the top or leaving it a quart low? A lot of plane are happy running a quart low. Sometimes just filling to the top throws out the first quart, though I don't think it will be that simple for you.
    Ive been operating around the 5 mark, so plenty of space below max and only doing short test flights mainly. Now I can pour oil in more easily, Ill be setting 5.5 as the level and topping up to that


    Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app

  29. #69

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    Does anyone know the part numbers, description and maybe suppliers for the O235-C piston ring sets please? and what other items are good to change at the same time?

  30. #70
    skywagon8a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    SE Mass
    Posts
    8,859
    Post Thanks / Like
    Do you know that your pistons are not damaged? That your valves are reusable, that the valve guides are good, that the valve seats are good....etc...........? Don't even think of ordering parts until you know everything that you need, especially when you have to place your order half way around the World. Are your cylinders standard diameter or oversize?? Did a broken piston ring gouge the cylinder wall beyond limits? One you take it apart you are committed to spending . I'll let someone else get you a source.

    Your engine is 1800+ hours, who really knows what is inside?
    N1PA
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post

  31. #71

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    Do you know that your pistons are not damaged? That your valves are reusable, that the valve guides are good, that the valve seats are good....etc...........? Don't even think of ordering parts until you know everything that you need, especially when you have to place your order half way around the World. Are your cylinders standard diameter or oversize?? Did a broken piston ring gouge the cylinder wall beyond limits? One you take it apart you are committed to spending . I'll let someone else get you a source.

    Your engine is 1800+ hours, who really knows what is inside?
    Great advice as always I'm not thinking of doing this work any time soon and when I do, I'll definitely be checking (having them checked) all the bits and only ordering afterwards when we know what's what I'm just checking that the parts I know about (the rings) are available, before I even consider doing anything else on this track

  32. #72
    skywagon8a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    SE Mass
    Posts
    8,859
    Post Thanks / Like
    It's not unusual for the piston ring grooves to be worn as well when the rings are really tired. So plan on pistons as well.

    https://www.lycoming.com/content/som...g-o-235-engine

    AIRPART SUPPLY LTD.

    Unit 3, The Gateway Centre
    Coronation Road, Cressex Business Park

    Buckinghamshire
    HP12 3SU

    United Kingdom44-1494-899406
    https://www.airpart.co.uk/
    Last edited by skywagon8a; 03-16-2019 at 01:58 PM.
    N1PA
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  33. #73

    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Fowler, Ks
    Posts
    516
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Philly5G View Post
    Great advice as always I'm not thinking of doing this work any time soon and when I do, I'll definitely be checking (having them checked) all the bits and only ordering afterwards when we know what's what I'm just checking that the parts I know about (the rings) are available, before I even consider doing anything else on this track
    LYCOMING 0320 $13,500 ACCEPTING OFFERS 160ho lyc b2a yellow tags 28hr since major all accessories included Contact Dan C. Harris, Owner - located Alcoa, TN USA Telephone: 865-804-6704 Posted March 12, 2019 Show all Ads posted by this Advertiser Recommend This Ad to a Friend Email Advertiser Save to Watchlist Report This Ad

    Not sure what the story is on this but kinda interesting.
    Last year I picked up a 0320 a2b cheap to replace a tired 0290 and with a IA friend we thought we might rebuild it for around 10K...well I have a rebuilt in my cub for 25K.. we basically salvaged only the case and everything in the little lyc is new.
    Steve
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  34. #74

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    Back out to the airfield tomorrow to lengthen and calibrate the dipstick (using 5.5/6 litres of new oil) that came with the new oil filler tube I bought and have just wire locked in

    I drained the oil out on Monday and 2 things:

    1. It took absolutely AGES to slowly come out, in fact so slowly I was initially worried it had no oil left in it to come out!! But it had as much as the old dipstick had said, so PHEW!! It's got one of those "quick" oil drains, I guess "quick" from the angle of not taking the cowl off, but is slow oil flow a feature of these taps? One of the pins has come off the tap, I have it, but just wondering the best way to reattach it? It looks like they may have been originally soldered?

    2. Although the oil is black black black!! I was reassured at how "oil-like" it was and felt quite thick, I was worried that black meant thin and not really working as oil!!

    %ODooxtxQd2WFhzlSmelBw.jpgfzEBhSfqRA2b2axtZ15zLQ.jpg

  35. #75
    skywagon8a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    SE Mass
    Posts
    8,859
    Post Thanks / Like
    Phil, It's a good idea to drain the oil right after flying when it is warmed up. Not only will it flow better but the contaminates will still be in suspension so will drain out rather than collecting in the bottom of the sump.
    N1PA
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  36. #76

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    Phil, It's a good idea to drain the oil right after flying when it is warmed up. Not only will it flow better but the contaminates will still be in suspension so will drain out rather than collecting in the bottom of the sump.
    Great idea and I'll do that next time, but I was worried about not much oil being left in the sump, so would have had to pour in a couple of litres, just to throw it away Really impressed with how the black stuff still felt like oil though

  37. #77
    skywagon8a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    SE Mass
    Posts
    8,859
    Post Thanks / Like
    Don't worry about it. Fly it, drain it, walk away, come back the next day, close the drain and refill with new oil. If you let the contaminates settle in the bottom of the sump, they will still be there to make your new oil dirty sooner.

    What oil do you use in the UK?
    N1PA
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  38. #78

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like

    O-235 Oil Leak ID Line-Up!!

    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    Don't worry about it. Fly it, drain it, walk away, come back the next day, close the drain and refill with new oil. If you let the contaminates settle in the bottom of the sump, they will still be there to make your new oil dirty sooner.

    What oil do you use in the UK?
    Thanks for this

    Finished calibrating the new dipstick yesterday, at 1,2,3,4,5,5.5 and 6 and pre heated the oil to a more pourable consistency by floating the bottles in boiling water for a few minutes and poured straight in and settled to a level within 2-3 minutes!!

    Using W/D100 grade oil

    Took the bottom cowl off and cleaned the vast majority of the leaked oil off, ready for the test run/trip round the pattern during the week It LOOKS LIKE the worst (only?) leak may be coming from above the generator and starter, just behind the propeller flange? Im going to check this thread, but Im pretty sure someone suggested this place as a possible leak source Just checked and Skywagon suggested this, the crankshaft seal If it IS this, is it a MAJOR job to fix?!!

    Also just ordered the 1.5 aluminium piano hinge to fabricate the new oil filler flap, which will basically be a long D shape, with the hinge on the straight edge

    ALSO noticed a lot of burned black soot on the front of the starboard inside gear leg strut, right behind the exhaust.......... looks like burned oil residue!!!! You know my methods Dr Watson




    Sent from my iPad using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    Last edited by Philly5G; 03-24-2019 at 07:41 PM.

  39. #79
    skywagon8a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    SE Mass
    Posts
    8,859
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Philly5G View Post
    ... It LOOKS LIKE the worst (only?) leak may be coming from above the generator and starter, just behind the propeller flange? I’m going to check this thread, but I’m pretty sure someone suggested this place as a possible leak source Just checked and Skywagon suggested this, the crankshaft seal If it IS this, is it a MAJOR job to fix?!!
    Not difficult just awkward. You need to remove the propeller, nose cowl and ring gear for access. Your local mechanic should be able to help you with this.
    N1PA
    Thanks Philly5G thanked for this post
    Likes Philly5G liked this post

  40. #80

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    England
    Posts
    304
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    Not difficult just awkward. You need to remove the propeller, nose cowl and ring gear for access. Your local mechanic should be able to help you with this.
    Brill!!! Thanks! Weve had the propeller and nose cowl off before, so its just the ring gear thats uncharted territory Does it just unbolt and then fit a new seal?


    Sent from my iPad using SuperCub.Org mobile app

Similar Threads

  1. Thrust Line Mod -- What is the bottom line?
    By JMBreitinger in forum Cafe Supercub
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 02-04-2005, 05:13 PM
  2. O-290 oil leak
    By RobW56 in forum Super Cub Sick Bay
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 02-06-2004, 06:08 PM

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •