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Thread: Wing tip lights

  1. #1

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    Wing tip lights

    My Super Cub wings are being rebuilt many miles away from me. I want to put LED strobe/navigation lights on the wing tips. Aeroleds have Pulsar NS and NSP lights available. You only use the NSP lights, that have a rearward facing light I understand, if that rearward facing light can be seen from the rear. So can a rearward facing light on my cub wings be seen from the rear (I frankly have never paid attention to that) or not? Are the position lights so far around the front part of the tip that they aren't visible from the rear? Or other words, do I order the NS or NSPs?

  2. #2
    wireweinie's Avatar
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    Best setup for a conventional tail is the standard nav and strobes on the wing tips and a white nav/strobe on the rudder. This will give the best view from most angles. The nav lights with the rear facing white lights were made for canard type aircraft. Besides Cubs already have mount points for all three of these lights.

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  3. #3

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    I have a RED LED light on top of the rudder. Will that suffice ILO a white light on the tail?

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    wireweinie's Avatar
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    That's a beacon. Considered an 'anti collision light' as per CAR 3. The white nav light on the rudder indicates the rear of the aircraft in the same manner as green and red indicate right and left wing tips.

    Do you not have a white light on the rudder already?

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  5. #5

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    I do have a white light on the rudder down about half way.

    1. Could I put a LED white strobe in that spot? Seems like maybe Aeroled makes one? Would it be beneficial? Is it "hard" to do?
    2. I really don't fly at night however. But I do want to be "seen" the best my budget and 8 amp alternator can do for me that is only really 6 amps at about 2300 rpm. I agree with a friend that says being "run over", from the rear, is really one of the most probably scenarios in a mid air collision as I only fly at about 80 mph true airspeed and a lot of planes fly at about twice that number. Whatdayathink?
    Thanks Brian M thanked for this post

  6. #6
    Gordon Misch's Avatar
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    If you want both a position light (the white light on the tail) and a strobe you'll need two circuits to the tail. However, could wire it so that strobe always comes on with position light. Using an LED system, I'd think the amperage might not be much?
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  7. #7

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    But would you want a strobe on while taxiing at night? Even in the daytime I get flicker vertigo from those school Cherokees who have to run strobes all the time. An extra wire is not that difficult.

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    Gordon Misch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob turner View Post
    But would you want a strobe on while taxiing at night? Even in the daytime I get flicker vertigo from those school Cherokees who have to run strobes all the time. An extra wire is not that difficult.
    Agreed, and good point.

    He said he's not flying at night, but that might not have anything to do with the pertinent regs.
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  9. #9
    wireweinie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Kid View Post
    I do have a white light on the rudder down about half way.

    1. Could I put a LED white strobe in that spot? Seems like maybe Aeroled makes one? Would it be beneficial? Is it "hard" to do?
    2. I really don't fly at night however. But I do want to be "seen" the best my budget and 8 amp alternator can do for me that is only really 6 amps at about 2300 rpm. I agree with a friend that says being "run over", from the rear, is really one of the most probably scenarios in a mid air collision as I only fly at about 80 mph true airspeed and a lot of planes fly at about twice that number. Whatdayathink?
    Stay with LED lights for the low current draw. Several manufacturer's make a combination strobe and white tail nav light assembly. With a little creativity you can mount them in the stock nav light location.

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  10. #10
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    The Super Cub I am building now has Pulsar NS in the stock Piper brackets on the wings and the Suntail in the rudder and the Whelen LED beacon on the stock mount on the late model rudder.
    Steve Pierce

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  11. #11
    stewartb's Avatar
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    Copied and pasted from the last thread you started about wingtip lights.
    http://www.supercub.org/forum/showth...ng-tip-strobes

    FWIW. My Wildcat Cub's lights include
    2- VisionX Solo Pod 2.15" for forward facing recognition using a MaxPulse flasher- 2@.83a
    2- Whelen Orion wingtip nav/strobe comination (not synched)- navs- 2@.15a, strobes- 2@.35a (I never use the navs)
    1- Aveo PosiStrobe on the vertical edge of the rudder- 1@.4a
    1- Whelen 71080 flashing beacon on the rudder top- 1@.56a

    With every light on- consumption is 3.62a total. Take out the navs and consider that the nose lights operate one at a time? 2.49a. All are more than adequate for daytime recognition. Very impressive, in fact.

  12. #12

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    I am trying to be "seen' and at the same time rebuild to a 1050 lb 160 hp cub (no starter or starter ring, generator or big battery will all help). So weight matters for sure. BUT I also want to be "seen" especially at non towered airports and by the DRONE folks who think there are no AGL limits. So I think I will put switches to everything and put the Aeroled Pulsar NS on the wing tips and their Suntail on the back of the rudder and I already have a LED Whelen red beacon light on top of the tail now. I will also add an Aeroled flood landing light at top of the center of the cabane vee vs one in each wing that would add more weight and cost. Any suggestions I can solicit the better. As in lighting, I am not the brightest bulb out there!

  13. #13
    wireweinie's Avatar
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    If you're going to run with no starter, eliminate the whole flywheel. Easiest way to do it and keep your timing marks, is to find an unserviceable flywheel. Take it to a machine shop and have it turned down until there is only the center left, the same diameter as the prop flange. Then have them transfer the timing marks from the backside of the flywheel to the edge of that piece that's left. Minimal weight and check timing by sighting down the split line of the crankcase to the marks on the edge of the disc. Also uses stock prop bolts.

    When wiring the nav/strobe lights, use three conductor shielded wire. One conductor for each nav power, strobe power, synch, and use the shield braid as ground. Easy to connect to switch breakers for power and it gets the grounds out of wings/rudder and into the fuselage.

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