SEM self etch
POR self etch primer is pretty impressive. POR chassis paint is what Advance Powder Coating recommended to me for touch-ups on my powder coated parts.
I have been having horrible luck with rattle cans. Krylon is unusable for my purposes, and for a while Rustoleum was ok. Now Rustoleum is good for about two shots a week apart, then the half-can left clogs.
The current solution is DupliColor. Their cans are triple the cost, but I get to use every drop, and it goes on smoothly.
Most of my painting is just model trains (I win prizes for my 17/64" scale locomotives) but I have had considerable success on my Cub, which has never seen self-etching primer. If you keep your Cub inside, almost anything will do - a good bead blast, some rattle can primer, and don't forget the top coat - primer is porous. I last painted my wing components in 1969, and all looks good in there.
I last painted my wing components in 1969, and all looks good in there.
Some of my recently purchased rattle cans appear to be all position spray, as in they still apply a full coat when the can is inverted. I get most of my spray paint from McMaster so it might be the Hammerite brand that does this.when done with a rattle can for the moment always turn it upside down and spray for a few seconds until nothing comes out, then good to go the next time, try it.
You saying it lasts better then me Bob.
I was new in '69 but I feel like I'm fading at a great rate these days.
That may be related to the cure time after painting. I've found that paint will lift on floats usually around the water line where the wave action effects the surface. Right down to the bare aluminum. This on both new and repainted floats. When the fresh paint cures over the winter months there doesn't seem to be a problem.I could not find Zinc Chromate here in Homer AK either. Just Zinc Phosphate, both green and yellow. I acid etched and allodyned my floats and tried green zinc phosphate on one float and yellow on the other. ( not enough cans of either in this town..._
Neither worked well. The green held the paint better but still failed. The yellow does not work worth a darn.
If the paint nozzle interchanges I remove them and install on a can of brake cleaner...one blast and they're clean. If not a shot of cleaner through them flushes the residue.
Gary
Zinc chromate is sacrificial. It wears out.
I must go shop for some break clean now..... great idea!
It's my understanding that zinc primers do nothing on aluminum. Zinc is sacrificial on ferrous metals.