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Thread: Fuel sump replacement

  1. #1
    WWhunter's Avatar
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    Fuel sump replacement

    I have been considering the purchase of a SC and have found several things of concern. This particular SC is a total rebuild and has the Dakota Cub wings with the 24 gallon tanks. Something I noticed is that when the window (door side) is opened up as far is it will go before latching it, it hits the fuel sump and this causes fuel to dribble onto the window. I looked at both sides and the side with the door appears to stick out just a little further that the none door side. Removing the inspection cover, it doesn't look like there is anything amiss. Is it possible to install the flush types legally? This would cure the problem in my opinion.
    Thanks!

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    This is a common problem even with stock tanks. Flush drain would be a simple fix, However, you might need a reducer for it to work right. I saw a thread on it a while back but can't find it now. Call Dakota Cub they should have the information on the how to do it properly.
    DENNY
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    The variable is how the top hinge is mounted. Had that problem a couple of times. Flush drains are a simple solution.
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    wireweinie's Avatar
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    Just find a different style sump drain, such as the flush type you mentioned. Just a log entry to replace them, nothing major about it. Aircraft Spruce or a local parts store can get you the right ones.

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    Life's tough . . . wear a cup.
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  5. #5
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Fuel sump replacement

    Flush drain. You want the 1/4” pipe thread NPT version. Also I add a rubber bumper on fairing at rear of window to hold it down if using tall drains. I just use one of those white cowl bumpers.

    https://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog...ickkey=5090354


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    WWhunter's Avatar
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    Thanks guys!! I'm thinking maybe the flush mounted ones will also help increase the speed by 0.00001 mph due to less drag.
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    Add a little spacer block under the latch, works wonders and spreads out the latch load on the rib. Pierce, if you have a pic of mine post it.
    Remember, These are the Good old Days!
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    if that's all of the concerns you have looking at a plane, I'd say buy it QUICK
    Staying alive in an airplane has a lot more to do with mastering ourselves than mastering the aircraft.
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    WWhunter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MT12 View Post
    if that's all of the concerns you have looking at a plane, I'd say buy it QUICK
    LOL!! I wish that was the only concern! Plane is basically new from the ground up (built in 2002) and was flown around 100 hrs. the first couple of years after being built. Then it was purchased by a guy that rarely flew it. As in 14 hours the past 14 years! Yes, rarely flown. He mentioned that he 'started it up and ran it a little on occasion' to keep the rust off. He is convinced the engine is as good as new with no corrosion. Plane has been 'annualed' every couple years.

    A couple of the rocker covers were removed and one has a fair amount of corrosion. I am guessing the cam might be in the same condition, but then again it might be fine. Having gone through a similar issue on a previous purchase, I am a little 'gun shy' per se.

    He has agreed to allow me to get an IA to pull a cylinder to have a look at the inside. Unfortunately, not able to find one that is willing travel to the rural airport to do it this time of the year. Not in a heated hangar.

    Seller is firm on his price and basically he is wanting to sell as is without fixing or investing any money to get it 'legal'. Any inspections, repairs, updates are on me.
    Last edited by WWhunter; 10-09-2018 at 09:42 AM.

  10. #10
    Farmboy's Avatar
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    From one struggle to the next, eh WW?


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  11. #11
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    When the FAA issued the AD on installing quick drains in Piper aircraft Piper said to use a 1/4x1/8 MIP adapter with the quick drain. Now you can get a 1/4" MIP quick drain like Mike suggested and do away with the extra length and extra threaded joint.
    Steve Pierce

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    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    one note on using the flush quick drain... it sticks into the tank very far and bends the finger screen(on some tanks with them inline), so it is imperative you remove the drain before trying to remove the finger screen.. or you destroy the finger screen...(don't ask How I know this....)

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    WWhunter's Avatar
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    Mike, thanks for the heads up!!

    I finally spoke to the owner yesterday. He had gone to Texas for a couple of weeks and out of contact. I relayed to him the advice I was given by Randy Rubbert (great guy by the way). Mentioned the costs involved to look into the engine and possible costs that might be incurred if there is corrosion. He is agreeing to a reduction in price if I take the plane 'as is', although he has yet to give me a price. I suggested that he think about it a couple of days and call me back. I am in no hurry since winter is coming and there will be no flying for me anyways until after the new year. The saga continues.....

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    I had a similar situation when I bought my PA-18. I and the owner agreed to keep 10K in escrow while I flew the airplane from WA to the East Coast. If it made metal within 50 hours of title change the 10K was mine. And it was.
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    WWhunter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeeBee View Post
    I had a similar situation when I bought my PA-18. I and the owner agreed to keep 10K in escrow while I flew the airplane from WA to the East Coast. If it made metal within 50 hours of title change the 10K was mine. And it was.
    GeeBee, I have mentioned doing something similar with the owner, will have to see if he is willing to agree with it. Price is $135K, so not an insignificant amount for me, and it's has little tires!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by mike mcs repair View Post
    one note on using the flush quick drain... it sticks into the tank very far and bends the finger screen(on some tanks with them inline), so it is imperative you remove the drain before trying to remove the finger screen.. or you destroy the finger screen...(don't ask How I know this....)
    Does the drain stick into the tank far enough to be a standpipe? I found that situation on an Ercoupe tank and the front corner was rotten from the pool of water that had collected over the years. Corrosion ate its way under the sealer at the edge of the tank. It was a nonrepairable mess.
    You can't get there from here. You have to go over yonder and start from there.

  17. #17
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by N86250 View Post
    Does the drain stick into the tank far enough to be a standpipe? I found that situation on an Ercoupe tank and the front corner was rotten from the pool of water that had collected over the years. Corrosion ate its way under the sealer at the edge of the tank. It was a nonrepairable mess.
    Good question. The holes are way down on the side. And the tank has welded on bushing. Looking at the picture on spruce


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    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by N86250 View Post
    Does the drain stick into the tank far enough to be a standpipe? I found that situation on an Ercoupe tank and the front corner was rotten from the pool of water that had collected over the years. Corrosion ate its way under the sealer at the edge of the tank. It was a nonrepairable mess.
    This one looks much lower holes
    Not sure if spruce pictures are actually accurate

    https://m.skygeek.com/piper-491-806-valve.html


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  19. #19
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Drill a hole in the plexi on the top door

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

  20. #20
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    https://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog...hp?recfer=1892

    Sa 14 looks like holes are nice and low. No problem


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