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Thread: Remodeling a Hangar: Suggestions Requested

  1. #81

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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post
    80x100? Holy crap, that's big! How do you heat it?
    I bought it with a 1/3 partner.. was thinking of building a 60x60 but no land available.. this came available and my partner helped me make it real.
    What I didn't know is that turned out to be least expensive option because it's big enough for our needs and still let some space for renters. The hangar is it's own LLC and does not generate any cash expense to either of us, even while providing space for our own airplanes.
    For heat we started with oil... there was an on-demand water heater for the floor and a new 250K air heater. We ran the water heater at 60 constantly and that worked very well for about 50 in the hangar. If we wanted 65 in the winter that would cost about 2K per month.
    Now we have natural gas. About 1/2 the floor areas are functional (prior owners let some freeze). We keep it at 58 on the floor year around with a single 250K burner. This burner also runs a couple of air heaters, so when anyone wants warmer air they can just turn up the blast. The highest month we have experienced with about 20F outside average is $600. We have 4 renters and their payments offset all costs. The point of this is that I had no idea when I bought it, but a bigger hangar turned out to be less out of pocket than a small one, because even one renter is a hassle, so you might as well have enough to make it worth it.. and four of them are really no problem.
    For Mr. Stewart.. I saw your post and it reminded me to look at my GoJacks.. Mine are the 6313 model with #1575 per unit allowed.. they are 14" center to center when fully collapsed. I love 'em except for the aforementioned limitations. I would really like to hear from Mr. Mike about his ideas for an elegant way to make them "all purpose" I haven't come up with one yet... 2x4s spit right out.. I can tell you that. Most of the planes in the hangar work well with them but the amphibs and the wheel skis don't play well.
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  2. #82
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    My hanger floor is just concrete. After working on an epoxy painted floor for years I would like it but not worth the expence. I like the brightness and ease of cleaning up oil etc.
    Steve Pierce

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  3. #83

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    My hanger floor is just concrete. After working on an epoxy painted floor for years I would like it but not worth the expence. I like the brightness and ease of cleaning up oil etc.
    Epoxy paint would be cheap compared to the move it all out and the prep-cost...
    Remember, These are the Good old Days!

  4. #84

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    So with help from Google I see there are breathable epoxies now. Interesting. I don't expect to add it to my 7 year old floor because it isn't important enough to warrant the inconvenience and expense for prep but for a guy in Randy's situation who's already doing floor prep it may be a worthwhile option.
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  5. #85

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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post
    So with help from Google I see there are breathable epoxies now. Interesting. I don't expect to add it to my 7 year old floor because it isn't important enough to warrant the inconvenience and expense for prep but for a guy in Randy's situation who's already doing floor prep it may be a worthwhile option.
    Interesting.
    Remember, These are the Good old Days!

  6. #86
    WindOnHisNose's Avatar
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    I have a question regarding the RapidAir system. I am leaning toward that.

    Can someone take a photo of the air drops? I have been planning to run the lines before covering the walls, but don't have a concept of how that could be done in terms of positioning the drops. Also, my son expressed concern that he has seen the connections become loosened, necessitating replacement...which would be a real drag if the system is run behind the walls.

    With regard to the floor, I am currently leaning toward having the linoleum removed, ground down and polished...at least before I read results of your investigation, Stewart. Breathable epoxy might be a nice thing to explore. Thanks!

    Randy

  7. #87
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    I would not run the air lines behind the walls if it were me. I had one leak where we didn't slide the tubing far enough into the compression fitting in the over 2 years I have had the system. I still feel better with them outside the walls where accessible. I am more of a function Iver form kinda guy.
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    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
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  8. #88
    Charlie Longley's Avatar
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    My hangar has a 60 foot wide door but they slide on tracks. Is it economically possible to put in a bifold door? It’s a wood frame building.

  9. #89

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    Hangar or a commercial shop. The comments can be divided into those categories. I’ve had production shops all my adult life. Never had an airplane hangar before. I don’t want my hangar to be a shop. I’m more interested in keeping it clean and inviting. I’d like my wife to enjoy being there, and that won’t happen if it smells and feels like a shop. I’ll get the dirty work done somewhere else.
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  10. #90
    Gordon Misch's Avatar
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    No, keep your air lines out of the walls. Problems will be easily correctable and modifications will also be easy. Anything that might, just might, want modification should be accessible.
    Gordon

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  11. #91
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie Longley View Post
    My hangar has a 60 foot wide door but they slide on tracks. Is it economically possible to put in a bifold door? It’s a wood frame building.
    There are bi-fold doors which have their own support structure and basically just fasten to the outside of the building. Wood frame would be fine. Also the one piece hydraulic doors will work on your hangar.
    N1PA

  12. #92
    Farmboy's Avatar
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    Higher Power is a good example of a free standing hydraulic door.
    https://youtu.be/r6nqeCK_IYc


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  13. #93

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    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    There are bi-fold doors which have their own support structure and basically just fasten to the outside of the building. Wood frame would be fine. Also the one piece hydraulic doors will work on your hangar.
    You better look real good at adding a Hydro Swing type door to a wood hangar, for sure it can be done, I have one on my shop. When they are open they put a LOT of stress on the framing, up high. But I tied in things extra good when framing it, in anticipation of using the door. Even then, after a couple years, I had to add some steel flat bar to the door frame top center, running clear across the ceiling to the other end of the shop, as it was wanting to pull away. It was cracking my sheetrock ceiling, so I had a good heads up of the stresses involved, and saved it by the fix before things got worse. My other Hydro on my all concrete (earth sheltered) hangar is rock solid.

  14. #94
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    Like I think Steve posted, line drops with a hose reel works well. Pex tubing and electrical boxes secured the terminations.
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  15. #95

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    Quote Originally Posted by courierguy View Post
    You better look real good at adding a Hydro Swing type door to a wood hangar, for sure it can be done, I have one on my shop. When they are open they put a LOT of stress on the framing, up high. But I tied in things extra good when framing it, in anticipation of using the door. Even then, after a couple years, I had to add some steel flat bar to the door frame top center, running clear across the ceiling to the other end of the shop, as it was wanting to pull away. It was cracking my sheetrock ceiling, so I had a good heads up of the stresses involved, and saved it by the fix before things got worse. My other Hydro on my all concrete (earth sheltered) hangar is rock solid.
    https://www.hydraulicdoors.com/building-details/

  16. #96

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    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie Longley View Post
    My hangar has a 60 foot wide door but they slide on tracks. Is it economically possible to put in a bifold door? It’s a wood frame building.
    After reading about them on this site, I looked into the Higher Power doors. A friend tried one before me. Now I have a 55x18' clear higher door and love it. No stress on the building, max head clearance (my reason for wanting it), and works well. Lifts straight up first foot so ice at the bottom outside isn't a problem. We removed a bi-fold to install the Higher Power door.

  17. #97

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    52’ x 14’ Higher Power door installed in my hangar earlier this year. Works great, no complaints and dead simple

  18. #98

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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post
    Hangar or a commercial shop. The comments can be divided into those categories. I’ve had production shops all my adult life. Never had an airplane hangar before. I don’t want my hangar to be a shop. I’m more interested in keeping it clean and inviting. I’d like my wife to enjoy being there, and that won’t happen if it smells and feels like a shop. I’ll get the dirty work done somewhere else.
    I think Stewart hit the nail on the head. My hangar is commercial, on any given day smells like carb cleaner, solvent, paint stripper, paint.... I work on my airplanes there. Its my dream hangar.. But for others would not be suitable at all. I admire those hangars that look like living rooms.... living the dream for some folks.. I would need two hangars to have one like that, but I certainly understand those who choose that route. That's the beauty of it.. one can gather a bunch of ideas and then proceed to do whatever one wants.
    I sure do gain from the input I read on this site though.

  19. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie Longley View Post
    My hangar has a 60 foot wide door but they slide on tracks. Is it economically possible to put in a bifold door? It’s a wood frame building.
    I have rolling doors on my own t-sized hangar and like them.
    Don't want or feel the need for anything "better".
    Among other reasons, although it doesn't happen often,
    the first time the power's out and you need to open your bifold or hydro-swing doors,
    you'll wish you still had rollers.
    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!

  20. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotrod180 View Post
    I have rolling doors on my own t-sized hangar and like them.
    Don't want or feel the need for anything "better".
    Among other reasons, although it doesn't happen often,
    the first time the power's out and you need to open your bifold or hydro-swing doors,
    you'll wish you still had rollers.
    You know how big of a guy I am since we’ve meet. Sometimes it takes almost all my strength to move my sliding doors. I am not getting any younger...
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  21. #101
    Farmboy's Avatar
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    If in an area prone to power outages the 12vdc backup system is nice option from higher power.


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  22. #102

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    Quote Originally Posted by hotrod180 View Post
    I have rolling doors on my own t-sized hangar and like them.
    Don't want or feel the need for anything "better".
    Among other reasons, although it doesn't happen often,
    the first time the power's out and you need to open your bifold or hydro-swing doors,
    you'll wish you still had rollers.
    As an available option, a 12 volt battery will open our Higher Power door. Flip a switch and hook up the jumpers... Just so the info is out there...
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  23. #103
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    I hate my cold air leaking, heavy sliding doors and looked at the Power Lift door after someone at our airport built a hanger with one. Impressive but not enough for me to spend the money. Maybe one day.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers
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  24. #104

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    I keep putting off rigging my two Hydro Swing doors with aux. hydraulic lines that would allow me to use my tractor's hydraulic system to open them, in case of a power outage combined with a need to get the plane out. I'll probably wait until an approaching wildfire takes out the grid power, and I lose the plane because I couldn't fly it away to safety, then do it for the next plane and hangar.

    For this all to work, it'd have to flyable WX, I'd have to be there, etc.etc., my reasoning for not getting around to it. Point being hydraulic doors can be self powered with a little fore thought when the grid goes down in numerous ways. Non powered sliding track doors are fine, good enough anyway, until you get in severe climes, but a real PITA in snow and ice.

    I think a one piece hydraulic door is about the best for not having airleaks, mine are anyway. They have 2" of urethane foam sprayed on the inside, and I was able to cut my mandoor and windows right where I wanted them, the main reason I went that route.

  25. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie Longley View Post
    You know how big of a guy I am since we’ve meet. Sometimes it takes almost all my strength to move my sliding doors. I am not getting any younger...
    Maybe your door rollers & tracks just need some TLC.
    Wooden buildings suffer some from warpage over time too,
    so sometimes door-to-framing/siding clearances have to be adjusted.
    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!

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