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Remodeling a Hangar: Suggestions Requested

When you use urethane foam you don't add a separate vapor barrier. To do so makes a second barrier and creates a terrarium in the wall. That's what rots studs and rafters, and it was a big problem 30 years ago. It isn't a problem these days and foam is still popular in new construction.
 
Are you on Natural Gas or Propane. If the later taking a look at heat pumps with gas auxiliary heat its a good approach where you get the best of both worlds. That’s what we’re replacing the Barn HVAC unit with.
 
I did close cell spray foam...steel building...4” on the walls and six plus inches on the ceiling. 3 inches would have been sufficient somewhere way south... 5/8” green board on the walls, ceiling 1/4” exterior grade plywood, primer sealer and latex top coat...vapor barrier is the paint... in floor hydronic heat...at some point I’ll apply polyurea to the floor...using the same machine I used to apply the spray foam....so maybe two birds with one stone if you contract out the work... polyurea is the tough stuff...industrial applications which include withstanding wild men on forklifts...
Using plywood on the ceiling...I don’t want sheet rock falling should the roof generate a water leak at some point...


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Vapor barriers are very location specific. What works somewhere else may not be what will be best for your location so the recommendation to talk to a local expert is a good one. Heat moves to cold, but in our climates that direction changes with the season. Some houses require a different approach on opposite sides of the house depending on sun or moisture exposure. Talk to a reputable local insulator or two, they'll know what's best. Around here closed cell foam has been all the rage but it's still too new to see long term effects, I'm not convinced. We've gone back to cellulose and black felt paper on the outside believe it or not, holds up much better over time in most cases. Strip a wall with Tyvek after a decade and you'll see what I mean. But again, find out what's best locally.
LED lighting is great. Check with the local environmental agency, around here there are aggressive rebates that make the LED upgrade free or better. I did a 5000 s/f building recently and the rebate was 120%
Tile the shower for God's sake, I hate plastic. If you get in a bind I'll come do it for you, not kidding!

By the way I like epoxy coatings for the floor. Done right (and that's the key) it lasts forever
 
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We put these in our hazelnut cleaning plant last year and I loved them so much I put them in my new shop I just built.
 

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PIPER J5.5 said:
We put these in our hazelnut cleaning plant last year and I loved them so much I put them in my new shop I just built.
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Those are excellent lights, Randy if you add fixtures and you will likely want to unless you add diffusers to those to spread the light more horizontally do your best to find lights rated as “Low Bay” they have an illumination pattern that will work much better when the fixture height is below 15 feet, the other option is high bays on closer spacing. The good news is you have attic access so wiring will not be ugly.
 
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Since the walls are still uncovered, it would be a good time to run air pressure lines and connectors to areas that might be convenient.

Jim
 
Doc

When you wire for sound, string some extra wires. Not worried about weight here, lol. For example, if you are wiring for a speaker location, run an extra pair of speaker wires. Also think about running a light duty pair of AC power wires. Just stow them for now. Down the road you may want to up grade the speakers or use powered equipment at that location. When you do, just hook up the unused wires and go. Lots easier (i.e. cheaper) than opening up a wall.

Web

Also more lighting candle power is ALWAYS better. If it's to bright just turn off a row.
 
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mike mcs repair said:
I really liked the built in hose reals in the draco construction videos.


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This.
Air reels, electric reels, vacuum, perhaps even water reels. I suppose in a non-working hangar one could go overboard, but I sure think it would be really hard to. I got fed up with hoses and mounted external hard lines in my shop for air, and STILL didn't put in as many drops as I should have. If every inch can be reached with two different drops it _might_ be enough.

I only run 100-110 psi, but the 3/4" pex tubing has been flawless.
 
Farmboy said:
This.
Air reels, electric reels, vacuum, perhaps even water reels. I suppose in a non-working hangar one could go overboard, but I sure think it would be really hard to. I got fed up with hoses and mounted external hard lines in my shop for air, and STILL didn't put in as many drops as I should have. If every inch can be reached with two different drops it _might_ be enough.

I only run 100-110 psi, but the 3/4" pex tubing has been flawless.
Click to expand...

I just added a couple drops to my air system. I’ve just use schedule 40 pvc pipe running at 175 lbs for 20 years??? Blah blah everybody says not to. But only time it broke is when I ran the 4000lb forklift into it. Yes never enough drops.


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If you install any type of hose/pipe/line behind the wall, make sure each run is at enough of an angle and has ports to drain anything out of them if needed. Simple and doesn't cost any extra to do.

Web
 
Randy,

How is a Minnesota grass strip maintained in winter? Groomed? What's the rule for freeze up and break up when the turf is vulnerable? How many days a year is the strip "off limits" to protect it?

It appears the popular style there is to separate the house and hangar? Up here the trend is to attach hangar to house. Pros and cons to each, I guess. Have fun with the project and good luck with the move. We'll have to compare notes in the spring.

SB
 
mike mcs repair said:
I just added a couple drops to my air system. I’ve just use schedule 40 pvc pipe running at 175 lbs for 20 years??? Blah blah everybody says not to. But only time it broke is when I ran the 4000lb forklift into it. Yes never enough drops.


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Mine have been in about that long and started exploding and blowing shrapenal everywhere. Enviroment might have something to do with our different experience.
 
Steve Pierce said:
Mine have been in about that long and started exploding and blowing shrapenal everywhere. Enviroment might have something to do with our different experience.
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That was my only reason for using pex , if it does blow there won’t be any shrapnel.


Transmitted from my FlightPhone
 
stewartb said:
When you use urethane foam you don't add a separate vapor barrier. To do so makes a second barrier and creates a terrarium in the wall. That's what rots studs and rafters, and it was a big problem 30 years ago. It isn't a problem these days and foam is still popular in new construction.
Click to expand...
That is my understanding, as well. Thanks for the clarification.

Randy
 
stewartb said:
Randy,

How is a Minnesota grass strip maintained in winter? Groomed? What's the rule for freeze up and break up when the turf is vulnerable? How many days a year is the strip "off limits" to protect it?

It appears the popular style there is to separate the house and hangar? Up here the trend is to attach hangar to house. Pros and cons to each, I guess. Have fun with the project and good luck with the move. We'll have to compare notes in the spring.

SB
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Groomed. This happens to be the same airstrip at which Santa began his Santa Flyins! The airstrip blows snow down the runway, and it is up to the owners to make a path to their hangars. I don't yet know the rules regarding freeze up and break up, but I am sure I'll be educated on this soon. We plan to move the Santa Flyin to our hangar (which will be heated), as compared to the one we have used for the last 4 years (which is cold storage).

Randy
 
OLDCROWE said:
Randy,

Mine (new construction) is polished through 2400 grit and has a liquid densifier applied

If you decide to paint, do a vapor transmission test FIRST.
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I don't know what a liquid densifier is, nor a vapor transmission test.

Is a liquid densifier related at all to a flux capacitor? :lol:

I hope the vapor transmission test is not what is used to detect those nasty gasses that Shrek had coming out of his ...

Seriously, what are they?

Randy
 
Should be a piece of cake for a guy that knows the intricacies of female plumbing!


WindOnHisNose said:
Nice! I will do some research on this. My only concern is what kind of access one needs to service the reel system. I'll try to find the supplier/vendor and find out. Thanks, Mike.

Randy
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