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Tail wheel steering issue

cubscout said:
And then there was all the fun we had on my Baby Bushwheel assembly, where someone had replaced the pin with a hardened rod. Thanks to the ingenuity of Steve Pierce and Tim Cochran, a piece tack-welded on, and some special "aviation maintenance vocabulary," it only took two hours for what should have been a half-hour job. I learned a lot though.

Thanks. cubscout
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There are always those special ones that make you say "if it was easy everyone would do it". ��
 
Steve Pierce said:
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I like to pry the spring out on the ends and make sure they're a nice snug fit into the notches.
Also like to dress the ends of that spring so it doesn't erode the notches in the steering arm.
There are a pair of shims where the spring pins into the fork,
you can place those behind of ahead of the spring to adjust spring engagement into the fork.
 
hotrod180 said:
I like to pry the spring out on the ends and make sure they're a nice snug fit into the notches.
Also like to dress the ends of that spring so it doesn't erode the notches in the steering arm.
There are a pair of shims where the spring pins into the fork,
you can place those behind of ahead of the spring to adjust spring engagement into the fork.
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If you take all the play out between the spring and the notches it will not unlock. Most of the steering arms have HT stamped on them designating that they are heat treated which should help with the notch wear. I have dressed those springs with a small flat file as well.
 
Regarding installing the new pin. Any trick to it, or will it simply slide in and then is held in place by compression of the other parts of the assembly?
 
You won't have any problem there, it will just push in and should be flush with the top of the lower copper ring when fitted and yes, it is held in place by the other components above.

If you haven't drilled up from below to get the old one out, do as Steve suggests when you get the pin out and drill down through the bottom of the pin hole so when it comes time to replace it again you can simply punch it out...simples.
 
There is a certain satisfaction to repairing a well-used part and seeing it return to service. There is also a certain frustration involved in repeatedly trying to force a worn out part to behave like a new part.

If it were me in your situation, I would bite the bullet, buy a new ABI tailwheel and get back to flying. Save the tailwheel rebuild project for a lazy weekend when you can afford to walk away. If and when you rebuild it, then you've got a spare. If you don't want a spare, someone will buy it. 3200s always sell for good money, and fast.

Honestly, looking at the pictures, I think you're going to need major surgery on that to get it working to spec. It looks like it's got some really heavy wear. I think you're going to end up with a new tailwheel whether you buy it whole up front, or replace all of it one part at a time. I've done it the hard way, and I don't think I came out ahead financially.

Give me your address and I'll send you a gob of SHC 100. I probably have enough to lubricate every tailwheel on earth into the next century.

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Fancypants. Thanks for the sound advice. I've got the part in (pin) and so will put it together and see how it works...if it doesn't, I'll bite the bullet on a new assembly.
 
Tailwheel pin Replacement

Anyone know the correct procedure for replacing the pin on the Scott 3200 tailwheel? Does it just fit in, and is held in place when the other parts are assembled with it? Thanks!
 
Installed Pin, cleaned all parts, replaced with new tire. Worked for one sortie, then same issue with no right response. Going to take Fancypants suggestion and go with a new assembly. Missing valuable instructing time with my daughter. Anyone have suggestions/preferences over different types of assemblies? Maule, or ABW, or Scott 3200 again?
 
spad said:
installed pin, cleaned all parts, replaced with new tire. Worked for one sortie, then same issue with no right response. Going to take fancypants suggestion and go with a new assembly. Missing valuable instructing time with my daughter. Anyone have suggestions/preferences over different types of assemblies? Maule, or abw, or scott 3200 again?
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abw you can even ship yours to them and they will replace what you need, I think they also offer a rebuild kit... maybe..
 
I asked in my initial post for a picture of your steering arm on the fork from above after the grease was removed. That would show what your issue is.
 
Steve Pierce said:
I asked in my initial post for a picture of your steering arm on the fork from above after the grease was removed. That would show what your issue is.
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I was thinking the same thing. Difficult to tell from this picture, but it looks like there is a shadow, or groves, that could catch the spring #18 after the pawl kicks it loose. If I’m not mistaken, a second grove here would prevent a right turn.A1F2162E-92C2-4C2C-9353-5B5954950371.jpeg
 

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Steve - Thanks, some how I missed that request. Think I'll get a new assembly and rebuild this one and sell it. Main issue is my daughter is only home two more weeks and I'm trying to get her to solo before she goes off to grad school.
 
Spad said:
Steve - Thanks, some how I missed that request. Think I'll get a new assembly and rebuild this one and sell it. Main issue is my daughter is only home two more weeks and I'm trying to get her to solo before she goes off to grad school.
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That time is priceless. When you get the old one apart post up some pictures and we can help work you though it.
 
.IMG_2816.jpgIMG_2820.jpgIMG_2819.jpg Picture of the assembly apart, grease cleaned with new pin. Doesn't the pin seem to short? Barely catches the copper ring.
 

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The pin should be flush with the raised portion of the fork. Some early Bushwheel 3200s had the bore to deep and you had to make a longer pin or I would pop a spacer with my Whitney punch and drop it in the hole prior to installing the pin. If the washer doesn't fit down tight against the fork and retained by the pin it rotates over the pin and then jambs the whole rotating assembly.IMG_20180710_125635.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using SuperCub.Org mobile app
 

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That's surely what's happening. for some reason it always happens to affect the right pedal/direction. Left steering was still fine. what type of materials can I use for such a spacer?
 
It looks ok but do you have slop between the arm and the fork like the video I posted? Is the tailwheel not unlocking in either direction?
 
No slop noted per your video. A couple more pin pictures. IMG_2807.jpgIMG_2805.jpg
 

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The groove that the thrust washer sits in looks messed up to me. Should be a nice tight fit.
IMG_20180710_132814.jpgIMG_20180710_132806.jpgIMG_20180710_133103.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using SuperCub.Org mobile app
 

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Good eye. The groove on my fork is not near as sell defined, causing the thrust washer to ride up. I think that must be the issue. My thrust washer doesn't fit snugly at all.
 
Wear yes, but the pin can be adjusted in its bore. Drill a small hole in the fork below the pin and either drive it up with a punch to be flush, or remove, invert to expose a new face, and replace with a shim below as Steve notes.

Gary
 
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Bend flat spring out some Hope it doesn’t break. See how it’s out more on one side.


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