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Tail Wheel Steering Cables

You mean on a Cub? I prefer them loosey goosey; others prefer them really tight. I think the concerns are stress on the lower rudder pin and increased friction at the pedals. Both methods work fine.
 
If they're too tight, the tailwheel will be hard to unlock. Too loose and the steering becomes sloppy. The proper procedure is to unweight the tailwheel and push the rudder to the stops. When at full left rudder, the right chain should be just slightly slack, and vice-versa.
 
I would agree with Pierce. If you take a link out of each side they may be too tight (been there done that). If so adding an AN eyebolt to the lower arm can change the angle enough to make it just right.

DENNY
 
I discovered some years ago that there are different pitch "sash chains" available.
If you can't get the tension you want with one, try another.
You can also fine tune a slightly-too-tight chain by squeezing the links flatter.
 
The t/w steering cable tension can only be set by its manufactured length. Too loose and they will beat on the bottom of the fuselage. (Ever fly formation with another 180? You can see this happening.) Too tight and on the ground the rudder has a lot of slop. About the best medium appears to be with just a slight amount of slop of the rudder with weight on the t/w.
 
Eddie's later model tailwheel steering cables should have springs at the internal connection end to take up any slack. Poor steering is related to incorrect rudder cable tension. 185 cable tension is specified at 30# +/- 10# while the same year 180 tension is supposed to be 75# +/- 10#. Some mechanics see a Skywagon and set the tension at the 185 setting. A 180 will steer better at the proper tension. That comment comes from experience.
 
Well, let's talk about the tensions - first off, for simplicity for 180s I am referring to s/n 32151 and later. Looking at the pre-'63 AMM, section 10-10 doesn't even mention cable tension. (The explanation for the omission is provided in the '63 to '68 AMM, where they added a paragraph that states tension is determined by setting the pedals the specified distance (6.5") from the firewall.). Note, the only difference between the 180 and 185 rudder system is the rudder trim on the latter. The AMM calls out a specified tension for the 185 (and the '58 182) because the rudder springs at the firewall are deleted due to the addition of the rudder trim pulley, which 'closes' the system. I do not see any 75# tension called out in either AMM. The 75# you are talking about shows up in a later AMM.
 
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Whatever. I believe the info I referenced is applicable to Eddie's 180. FWIW, my 180 has rudder trim yet the SM revision specs for cable tension list "all 185s" and "all 180s" in the manual. Obviously that manual is model and SN specific. My ground handling was dramatically improved when the cable tension was increased. Lesson learned, lesson shared. Y'all can use it or not.
 
Is this too loose? I am only applying enough pressure to take out the slack.
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Mine have no sag. They aren't tight like a guitar string, either. If I pull on them like in your picture I can feel the spring and the rudder moves proportionately as I pull a bow in the cables.
 
There should be no slack with the tailwheel on the ground because with the weight off of the TLG (in flight), the cables gain slack and will beat on the bottom of the fuselage (because the TLG springs forward). Like we talked about earlier, the only way to adjust the tension of just the tailwheel steering cables is by its manufactured length. As Stewart said, there should be no slack/sag with the tail on the ground and by pulling on the cables, you will see the rudder move. I personally have found that the best way to prevent the cables beating on the fuselage is to actually have a very small bit of slack in the rudder with weight on the ground. I suppose I could have shortened the cables that go from the steering bellcranks to the rudder, but what you are up against is all three sets of cables are interrelated (because they all connect at the bellcrank and shortening one cable will either pull or push on another). And, there is only so much you can do with cable tension, as you are bound by the spring constant inherent in the tailwheel steering springs.
 
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Your tailwheel weight in three point should be greater than 3x that of a Cub. It isn't going to be as nimble as a light airplane.
 
It’s a flying machine. If you want a precision driving machine buy a BMW.

Learn to tap brakes to change direction. Coming out of a hard turn you’ll need to alternately depress each rudder pedal fully to recenter your ground steering.

Go fly it and get used to it. Skywagons are great airplanes.
 
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I think you will find the wagons need a lot more use of brakes than a Cub. The T/W weight on the late models is 200 lbs +, so they need a little brake to swing around. Keeping the tail up on the roll out by using brakes not elevator gives quicker control response on landing. In strong X/W you sometimes need to feather the brake if you have the seaplane tail on T/O. What you don't want to do is go stop to stop on a wagon and have the tail get some momentum built up, they will surprise you how fast they start around the second the TW breaks lose.
 
What you don't want to do is go stop to stop on a wagon and have the tail get some momentum built up, they will surprise you how fast they start around the second the TW breaks lose.
Yep. Just happened to me today swinging around a tight air park taxiway with a stiff quartering tailwind. That tail came around 70 degrees PDQ. Good thing I was taxiing at a walking pace or I would have bought a new mailbox and some tail feathers.
I will say that the Baby Bushwheel tailwheel seems to break loose easier than the stocker...
J
 
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I think you will find the wagons need a lot more use of brakes than a Cub. The T/W weight on the late models is 200 lbs +, so they need a little brake to swing around. Keeping the tail up on the roll out by using brakes not elevator gives quicker control response on landing. In strong X/W you sometimes need to feather the brake if you have the seaplane tail on T/O. What you don't want to do is go stop to stop on a wagon and have the tail get some momentum built up, they will surprise you how fast they start around the second the TW breaks lose.

What he said^^. Brakes are an integral and vital component in managing a 180/185. Doesn’t mean you should be on them all the time, but as he said “Taps” on the brakes really help at times. And, as he noted, if it starts getting Western on you, get on those brakes to save the day.

To me, in “normal” operations (whatever that is) unlike a Cub, where brakes are just kind of nice to have accessories, in a 180/185, brakes are a primary Control. Don’t be shy about using them regularly.

MTV
 
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