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Thread: FarmBoy's Oil Temp Thread

  1. #121
    C-FIJK's Avatar
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    Do like carbon cub and add two vents on top of cowling !!!!


    Quote Originally Posted by Farmboy View Post
    I have a no-electric C90, with oil screen and no CHT kit.
    Itís been thrashed around in the prop thread but the issue is high oil temps when using a composite prop. With all other parameters equal, removal of a metal prop and installation of a composite prop bumps oil temp 25-30 degrees or more.
    185-190-200 becomes 225, and with the right heatsoak and climb I saw 240 one bad day. Swap prop and under 190 again. This makes me believe itís a lack-of-pressure airflow issue.

    I donít understand how one would open up the cowl cheek openings without rebuilding the cowl doors. And the doors also create part of the top cowl ďplenumĒ seal.

    Pb


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    Gerry Marcil

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  2. #122
    Farmboy's Avatar
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    So I was able to test my lower cowl today and I *think* it gained me 10į or more, based on the OAT. On the better as we get a smooth day with a little warmer temps.

    If itís still not enough of a temp drop, it gives me a few options without going in other directions. Iíve got room now to add scoops and a tank blast tube, or continue cutting it back to a larger opening.

    Provided it eventually performs as desired, at that point Iíll probably build a new one to tidy up some of the openings.

    IMG_0740.JPG

    IMG_0743.JPG

    IMG_0742.JPG

    IMG_0741.JPG


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  3. #123
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    pb, Have you been flying it all along without the spinner? That does help with the air flow through the openings.
    N1PA

  4. #124

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    Ive seen an oil cooler adapter, that fits in the oil screen hole of a dash 8 engine, but where? i dont remember.

  5. #125

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    heres one for a filter, but i know i seen one for a cooler.https://afors.com/aircraftView/42094

  6. #126
    Farmboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    pb, Have you been flying it all along without the spinner? That does help with the air flow through the openings.
    No, spinner was off for a prop blade change.


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  7. #127

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    Peter, maybe you need a cowl inlet like this one.

    IMG_0662.JPG


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  8. #128
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    Ha! Yeah maybe. Iíd be adding top scoops before that I think.


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  9. #129

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    Do you have the baffle underneath the engine that directs the airflow entering the rectangular opening in the cowl, underneath the crankcase and spills the cool air onto the oil tank?

  10. #130
    Farmboy's Avatar
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    I do not, but I found the lower cowl made an improvement.


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  11. #131
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    Farmboy, Iíve got a buddy with similar issues. U have a recent pic of the front end?


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  12. #132
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    FarmBoy's Oil Temp Thread

    Steve, three or four posts up are the photos. If itís not enough for him he can always add some inlets or scoops to the side of the rounded center section.

    Edit: post 122
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  13. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farmboy View Post
    I do not, but I found the lower cowl made an improvement.


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    Back in posts #67 & 70 you said that you did. That blows cold air directly onto the bottom of the crankcase and the oil tank.
    N1PA

  14. #134

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    Pete make 4 new u shaped rods longer for the cowl to latch to then duct tape the front opening that will increase the cheek opening without making new doors. my 11 didn't have any cheeks when I rebuilt it and never had any heat issues if anything it was and still is too cold. You could also send me your nose bowl and I will send mine back with all the cracks you should get plenty of air .
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  15. #135
    Farmboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    Back in posts #67 & 70 you said that you did. That blows cold air directly onto the bottom of the crankcase and the oil tank.
    Pete, no, I have the center channel that directs air along the bottom of the case up to the front intake tubes. I donít have the baffle that mounts in front of the oil tank and disperses the air.



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  16. #136
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    That is what I meant in my question. The cold air entering that rectangle needs to blast on to the oil tank.
    N1PA

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