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Thread: Remote Oil Filter and Fuel Caps

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    Remote Oil Filter and Fuel Caps

    Hey All

    My newly acquired 12 with an O320 needs an oil filter installed. Recommendation greatly appreciated. B&C reasonable but looks as messy as the screen, Air Wolfe Remote Expensive but clean, how about Casper Labs they offer a no spill oil filter housing. As always your input is invaluable. Iím trying to keep my cost in check, so many little things I have to do.

    Also, the guy I bought the plane from indicated I should install the Attlee Dodge fuel caps with the tall vents. Atlee shows them for a 180 HP 12. Any thoughts on his reasoning? I did notice on the flight home the left tank burned more than the right and being new to the plane I didnít fool with the fuel selector.

    Lastly Atlee Dodge or AK Airframes for the right hand long Fuel step. The plane is on 31s

    THANKS!

  2. #2
    PerryB's Avatar
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    I have the "original" Casper adapter. I went this route because it was the most affordable approved conversion at the time. The trick to minimizing the mess is to plan ahead for oil changes. With a hot engine, uncowl and stab the top outer edge of the filter so it'll drain into the sump. The next morning, tuck some rags under it and unscrew. It will only spill a little. I like the ram-air caps because they obviously keep a touch of positive pressure in the tanks, and if you park a full airplane on a bit of a side-slope it won't leak out the low side cap - assuming the gaskets are good. The left tank will usually out burn the right on longer trips due to fuel line routing, at least that's my theory. It's the shorter path. Mine does the same thing.

    Let's see a picture !
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    It seems like every fuel system is a little different. You should not need the tall vent caps for a 0320(check the STC for the engine). Sounds like you have a right/left/both fuel selector. Just run on right or left tank, don't use both, it is a lot easier to keep track of you fuel that way.
    DENNY
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    I'm going to install an oil filter in place of the screen on my PA-18. Tired of having to be a contortionist to check the filter at each oil change. The Caspar interest me the most. Perry, when you say uncowl the engine, are indicating taking off the upper cowl in order to access the filter? I need to take a closer look at mine, but as I remember space is quite limited. I do not have swing out engine mounts, however I have the thrust line mounts installed. Thanks, Eddy

  5. #5
    NDRII's Avatar
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    Below is my Casper Labs installation from 10 years ago. Had to move the voltage regulator, so installed a solid state, also had to install flexible oil cooler lines to make it all fit but each has been a exceptional modification.

    HERE IS THE TRICK: As PerryB said punch a small hole in the top for the spin on filter, but instead of waiting, use an air nozzle and 40 psi shop air you will blow that oil into the sump and not have a mess!

    oilfilter5.jpg

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    hotrod180's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DENNY View Post
    ....you have a right/left/both fuel selector. Just run on right or left tank, don't use both, it is a lot easier to keep track of you fuel that way.
    I've heard people say this before & I disagree.
    Don't want to highjack this thread,
    so maybe someone who believes in always running left or right but not both can start a new thread.
    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!

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    Hotrod180
    Do a search we done beat that dead horse bad!! But, it is winter and just getting light out, I will get my stick.

    Another thing to consider with an oil filter is space. On a cub add oil filter and rear mount oil cooler and it is a pain to get to mags or anything else. A remote filter would be nice from a overall maintenance standpoint.
    DENNY

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    Consider how you'd preheat a remote oil filter if you'll fly it in winter. Casper Labs' adapter isn't perfect but its way less messy than a screen.

    Stock -12 fuel systems have two valves, don't they? On-off for each tank?
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    Thanks everybody. I’ll give the Casper filter a go and leave the fuel caps alone

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    PerryB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eddy Lewis View Post
    I'm going to install an oil filter in place of the screen on my PA-18. Tired of having to be a contortionist to check the filter at each oil change. The Caspar interest me the most. Perry, when you say uncowl the engine, are indicating taking off the upper cowl in order to access the filter? I need to take a closer look at mine, but as I remember space is quite limited. I do not have swing out engine mounts, however I have the thrust line mounts installed. Thanks, Eddy
    Yes, I mean pull the top sheet.
    After Monday and Tuesday, even the calendar says WTF !

  11. #11
    PerryB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post

    Stock -12 fuel systems have two valves, don't they? On-off for each tank?
    Yes, and if they don't leak don't touch them. They suck. I finally S-canned mine last annual and we put a Dakota valve in. Love it. Smooth as butter and nice little detents at each position.

    As to the dead horse subject of burning both. I almost always run both, but I'm usually not pushing the envelope on fuel supply and I'm usually screwing around where unporting is probably occurring on one side or the other at any given time. On a long trip I like to burn one down to 1/2, run the other one out (or real close-it always bugs me to hear it sputter) and then I have a half tank left on the initial side. Makes it real easy to figure out if the remainder of the trip is still kosher or I need to consider an alternate. I've never actually had to do the alternate fuel thing. I always over-calculate my burn rate a little, on purpose.
    After Monday and Tuesday, even the calendar says WTF !
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  12. #12
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    If you have a header tank why would you worry about unporting a tank when running on a single tank?

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

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    PerryB's Avatar
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    I wouldn't, but I don't have a header. I also don't see the need to be "managing" a fuel system when its not necessary.
    After Monday and Tuesday, even the calendar says WTF !
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    Gordon Misch's Avatar
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    Yes, and if they don't leak don't touch them. They suck.
    Dunno, I still have the originals with no problems. They're pretty much stupid-simple, like me.
    Gordon

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    Sorry Gordon, you know I failed tact class. You may have a better set of valves than I did. I had the original Imperials and they should have been called Impossibles. I rebuilt them in '13 when the plane was apart because they wouldn't seal unless the packing nut was so tight as to render them inoperable. Cleaned the barrels, new packing seals and a coating of Fuel Lube and they were great... for a while. Then they started leaking again. I snugged them up and stopped the leaks but of course they got stiff again. Then at the last annual, one of them wouldn't shut off. It would turn but the fuel would continue to trickle from the Gascolator. At that point I bit the bullet and had my buddies at Shafter put a Dakota in it. At rebuild in '13 I had them frame in an external fuel valve access panel. It paid off in spades !

    If my information is correct, those Imperials were originally natural gas valves that Piper got approved back in the 30's or 40's.
    Last edited by PerryB; 01-12-2018 at 12:50 AM.
    After Monday and Tuesday, even the calendar says WTF !

  16. #16
    Gordon Misch's Avatar
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    Oh, I get it Perry! And your tact skills are just fine. This time.

    I had leakage problems after rebuild, but was able to solve them with some extended vocabulary, gasket cement, long wrenches with plenty of leverage, and perseverance. Did I mention vocabulary?

    If I had it to do over I'd probably use a modern valve, however the original Imperials are working fine and I like the simplicity and ease of use without looking.

    If my information is correct, those Imperials were originally natural gas valves that Piper got approved back in the 30's or 40's.
    Interesting. Gotta say, simple plug valves spring-loaded for proper fit-up of the ports, are pretty much foolproof IF the cap seal is good and the shaft O-ring is good.



    Last edited by Gordon Misch; 01-12-2018 at 01:04 AM.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by cplne View Post
    Hey All

    My newly acquired 12 with an O320 needs an oil filter installed. Recommendation greatly appreciated. B&C reasonable but looks as messy as the screen, Air Wolfe Remote Expensive but clean, how about Casper Labs they offer a no spill oil filter housing. As always your input is invaluable. Iím trying to keep my cost in check, so many little things I have to do.

    Also, the guy I bought the plane from indicated I should install the Attlee Dodge fuel caps with the tall vents. Atlee shows them for a 180 HP 12. Any thoughts on his reasoning? I did notice on the flight home the left tank burned more than the right and being new to the plane I didnít fool with the fuel selector.

    Lastly Atlee Dodge or AK Airframes for the right hand long Fuel step. The plane is on 31s

    THANKS!
    Do you know how the fuel system has been modified? The 'goose necked' caps were needed to provide fuel pressure to the 180hp engine, the standard fuel line needed to be the next size up to provide adequate fflow. The goose-neck caps were a quick fix. Wonder why the owner would tell you they were needed, and he never installed them? Make sure both your existing caps have working vents...
    I have installed a few Casper Labs filter adapters, they seem to work OK and fit in a tight spot.

  18. #18
    Charlie Longley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post
    Stock -12 fuel systems have two valves, don't they? On-off for each tank?
    Thats correct except the left tank is considered the main tank. If itís not on you donít get any gas out of the right tank. That was on a 46. I think the 47 was a little different. The last two 12ís Iíve owned have/ had the Cubcrafters STC with the more modern 4 way valve.

    On the oil filter adapter my preference is the B&C unit. The Casper unit is very similar except itís cast aluminum instead of machined. Just a personal preference. I dislike the remote filters on Cubs and Cessnaís.
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  19. #19
    Gordon Misch's Avatar
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    the left tank is considered the main tank. If it’s not on you don’t get any gas out of the right tank. That was on a 46. I think the 47 was a little different.
    Oh man, that sounds dangerous. Was that a factory setup?

    My '47 -12 has the original two valves and is plumbed such that the tank feeds are teed together downstream of the valves. Each tank is completely independent.
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    I THINK the left being considered the "main" is because it had dual feeds. I've seen some early '18 with a fuel placard calling for the left tank if below a certain level.
    After Monday and Tuesday, even the calendar says WTF !

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    Charlie Longley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gordon Misch View Post
    Oh man, that sounds dangerous. Was that a factory setup?

    My '47 -12 has the original two valves and is plumbed such that the tank feeds are teed together downstream of the valves. Each tank is completely independent.
    Yeah I am remembering it now. My original 46 had the weird system if you didn’t have the left tank on you weren’t getting any gas. It didn’t help that all the placards were gone and it was my first tail dragger. At first I just left both tanks on. After I flew it a bit I figured out how the system worked.

  22. #22
    Gordon Misch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerryB View Post
    I THINK the left being considered the "main" is because it had dual feeds. I've seen some early '18 with a fuel placard calling for the left tank if below a certain level.
    I believe, at least in the headerless system, that left tank for takeoff and landing is due to the fact that the left tank has a front discharge port, and the right tank does not. At least that's the case for my plane, and that's how it was before rebuild also, which I think was stock Piper configuration. I think.
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    That's what I meant when I said it had "dual feeds" on the left. Front and rear ports.
    After Monday and Tuesday, even the calendar says WTF !

  24. #24
    Gordon Misch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerryB View Post
    That's what I meant when I said it had "dual feeds" on the left. Front and rear ports.
    Gotcha, I'm slow - - -
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie Longley View Post

    On the oil filter adapter my preference is the B&C unit. The Casper unit is very similar except it’s cast aluminum instead of machined. Just a personal preference. I dislike the remote filters on Cubs and Cessna’s.
    I kept thinking that checking the screen would get easier and quicker with practice. It hasn’t. While everyone else is already out playing, I’m still trying to contort my fingers to get that 4-o’clock bolt, washer, and lock washer in place. Vacuume pump, mag, oil return line, temp line, Leading Edge Exhaust... lots of stuff taking up space back there. Is there a difference in space management between the Casper or B&C? My next oil change will involve changing a filter on one of these - instead of standing on my head playing Twister between my fire wall and engine. I want the one that will clear all the stuff the best. Which does it best? Looks like I will have to move oil line and electrical stuff? 97A34D1F-6C7B-42D7-ABB3-7F23B6F33A22.jpg
    Last edited by MoJo; 02-19-2018 at 04:47 PM.

  26. #26
    texmex's Avatar
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    I couldn't remove the rock catcher screen without swinging the engine which was painful. On the Cub, with an O-320, I put a B&C oil filter adaptor.

    It was fantastic and with a little patience dripped no oil in the change. Punch a hole in the top of the filter and come back next morning and remove it without spilling a drop of oil.

    I put the Air Wolf remote oil filter on the C180, and while I have no complaints about it, I perfered the O-320 set up without the additional hoses.

    A B&C oil filter adapter gets my vote.

  27. #27
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MoJo View Post
    I kept thinking that checking the screen would get easier and quicker with practice. It hasn’t. While everyone else is already out playing, I’m still trying to contort my fingers to get that 4-o’clock bolt, washer, and lock washer in place. Vacuume pump, mag, oil return line, temp line, Leading Edge Exhaust... lots of stuff taking up space back there. Is there a difference in space management between the Casper or B&C? My next oil change will involve changing a filter on one of these - instead of standing on my head playing Twister between my fire wall and engine. I want the one that will clear all the stuff the best. Which does it best? Looks like I will have to move oil line and electrical stuff? 97A34D1F-6C7B-42D7-ABB3-7F23B6F33A22.jpg
    Casper and B&C are physically the same. Most installations use a 45 degree elbow on that top oil cooler fitting but the left line off the oil cooler usually goes to that fitting.
    Steve Pierce

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    Going with the B&C.

    That line that usually needs a 45, on mine, runs to the rights side of my front mounted cooler. I plan to, and looks like I will have room, turn that 90 straight down and run that line under the air intakes on left side.

  29. #29
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Here is how mine is routed. Piper routed underneath on the late model Super Cubs.
    20180220_071423.jpg20180220_071433.jpg20180220_071450.jpg

    Sent from my [device_name] using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    Steve Pierce

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    LOL, every time I decide to change something on my Cub I feel like I enter into a game of “whack a mole”.

    I decided to change to a filter, which leads to changing my oil lines ( older cub, my lines are reversed and run over top) , so may as well change the out the heavy cooler..

    If I reroute lines as in the new Cub, due to Lees exhaust, I will trap my mags, and it will make adjustments or mag removal difficult.

    Ps.
    Thanks for adding the pictures.

  31. #31
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    One change usually effects 3 others. How come the lower lines will trap the mags? You can still go over the top with the filter adapter.
    Steve Pierce

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    One change usually effects 3 others. How come the lower lines will trap the mags? You can still go over the top with the filter adapter.
    When we pulled my left mag for 500 check, with the engine swung, there was just enough room to wiggle it up and out. There was no way to go down due to Lee’s exhaust. An oil line over top may trap it. The right side looks like this. If I can squeeze through there, the line will make access to leads difficult. 4E4E738E-586A-4C3F-AFA7-91DC23BBE963.jpg

  33. #33
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    I just installed the Sutton Exhaust on mine on Sunday. Like the extra room on the back of the engine and imagine the heat on the firewall will be less this summer.
    Steve Pierce

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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    I just installed the Sutton Exhaust on mine on Sunday. Like the extra room on the back of the engine and imagine the heat on the firewall will be less this summer.
    I live in ND, heat is good, and I need to draw the line somewhere in my quest to simplify oil changes. Not changing my exhaust

  35. #35
    hotrod180's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    One change usually effects 3 others......
    Two things come to mind:
    1) the law of unintended consequences
    and
    2) the first step on a slippery slope.
    Cessna Skywagon-- accept no substitute!
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  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by MoJo View Post
    I live in ND, heat is good, and I need to draw the line somewhere in my quest to simplify oil changes. Not changing my exhaust

    It also eliminates that super fun AD of looking at the exhuast every 50-100 hours depending on the time on the muffler.
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    Well.., First..

    I went with the B&C..., and a Challenger reusable filtter. During my first oil change, a friend showed me how to use a plastic grocery bag tucked around filter base to catch any oil trapped in the filter, and it worked great!

    Then I continued the game of “wack-a-mole”

    My cub sits on amphibs during the summer, and is/was very nose heavy.

    Since I had to move oil lines anyway, and since I had the old heavy brass oil cooler hanging on the nose, and my engine baffling had seen it’s better days, I gave Randy Rubbert a call, and got the STC for the oil cooler move (that comes with new baffling,) and I changed to the light aluminum aft mounted oil cooler.

    Then ... I decided to give the Sutton exhaust a try.

    That made me have to remove a 2lb oil pan heater due to scat location, added to weight loss (a Zerostart that will be replaced with a Reiff.)

    CHT shows no change, oil temp maybe a few degrees warmer? (No oat gauge), and no noticeable power difference so far ( also, got a new tach, so too many changes to be conclusive). I got the heat ribbon in the Sutton, and heat seems plenty adequate, but it has warmed up outside, so? Still couldn’t hold my hand near the heat outlet for long without melting my fingers.

    All tolled I lost 14 lbs off the nose and moved the cg a 1/2 inch aft, and now I can shed 53 lbs of ballast while flying solo on floats.

    I will not regret the filter adapter, and summer will ultimately tell about the rest.
    Last edited by MoJo; 05-02-2018 at 01:32 PM.
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    Installed a Casper Labs Unit. Bolted it on and went about my business. No adapter, didn’t move a single hose. It did need an adapter fitting for the oil temp probe. Changed oil today and first punched a hole in the filter to let it drain into the case and removed it without making a mess. That was the only easy thing I have done to the plane thus far.

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