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Thread: Tips for Keeping Passenger Warm...Without Roasting in the Front Seat?

  1. #41
    Gordon Misch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerryB View Post
    Heating a building involves warming/recirculating a relatively static mass of air. In the case of a Cub you are constantly importing fresh air (albeit hot) and I would think some form of exhaust would be required for best effect.
    Agreed, Perry. However - - if that nice warm air is coming into the cabin, that means just as much air is also going out. And it's already doing so, without our additional help. Otherwise, bingo - pressurized Cub! The objective isn't to warm the cabin as much as it is to direct that warm air for the greatest comfort. Cuz it WILL dissipate in a hurry! I get all that, and was just taking issue with the notion of opening the windows to warm the house as a generalized statement.

    Many in upstate NY lived it in old farm houses and froze. Add a few cold air returns from the remote rooms and every room had heat
    Ya Glenn, that's how my 1911 house was, pre rehab. And when stormy out, it was almost as breezy in the house as in my Cub! I'm in a modern house now. Boring
    Gordon

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  2. #42
    PerryB's Avatar
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    I always wanted a pressurized Cub! Our bulkheads may be a bit lacking though. Actually along those lines, whenever it's not too cold (usually) I keep all 4 of my pop-vents opened forward to some degree. My thinking is a little positive cabin pressure should help prevent possible CO intrusion.
    After Monday and Tuesday, even the calendar says WTF !
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  3. #43
    BC12D-4-85's Avatar
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    There's heat concerns then there's moisture from snow covered clothing and exhaling. Without some exhausting air windows will soon frost over...no mystery to cold weather flyers. My Citabrias came with front and rear seat heat outlets. We'd put a 2" duct adapter on the rear heat outlet cover and use that to defrost the windows front and rear. Same for my Cubs that had Atlee's front heat adapter with the red SCAT elephant pecker to do the side windows and defroster vents for the windshield. Then i discovered the two rear snap vents and blocking curtain and could get the front panel area to +70 at -25F. The rear would be above freezing but minor puffs of dog steam were visible in the rear. Wonder what they thought about that?

    PS: Wrapping the Cub's header core with door springs made it possible to stay warm.

    Gary
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  4. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by cubdriver2 View Post
    Does it really have heat at zero F ? 164% increase from a Carbon Cub at 2100RPM is still a cold airplane.

    Glenn
    You should go fly it. The heat is AMAZING. It works as advertised.

  5. #45
    cubpilot2's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=BC12D-4-85;
    PS: Wrapping the Cub's header core with door springs made it possible to stay warm.

    Gary[/QUOTE]

    Gary are you talking about wrapping the springs around the muffler core under the shroud?
    Ed

  6. #46
    BC12D-4-85's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cubpilot2 View Post
    Gary are you talking about wrapping the springs around the muffler core under the shroud?
    Yes. For experimental purposes only of course but it works. Common door spring smaller in diameter than the shroud to header distance. Anneal with a torch to soften and make wrapping less of a struggle. Wrap the core in a spiral and fasten the spiral with safety wire or other appropriate method like small hose clamps. The annealed coil is softer than the core, and periodic heating will anneal it anyhow. Inspect per Piper's recommended intervals.

    I've also seen several individual coil lengths cut from one spring and wrapped with a wire or hose clamp internal to the coils as independent rings. The coils mix the incoming cold air and pick up heat from the core and transfer it to the air. I did both muffs and the incoming air gets toasty. Cessna did similar in some of their mufflers via studs fastened to the core that transfer heat.

    Gary
    Last edited by BC12D-4-85; 12-06-2017 at 07:33 PM.

  7. #47
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Randy, have you tried some soft music and a good poem. Some gals get warmer with the right attention

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"
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  8. #48
    BC12D-4-85's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cubdriver2 View Post
    Randy, have you tried some soft music and a good poem. Some gals get warmer with the right attention

    Glenn
    and the girls all get prettier at closing time...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-nkLMWDUt4

    Gary
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  9. #49
    SteveE's Avatar
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    RandyBob,,
    Call Vetterman and have him make one of these for you, welded instead of JB weld. It works great and will run keep Julie toasty.

    Here is the link to the thread. http://www.supercub.org/forum/showth...-heat-vent-mod

    Eaton the heater fixer....
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  10. #50
    Cub Special Ed's Avatar
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    I ran 2" scat under front seat so backseat has heat. Just hang it high up under front seat. I was told there is a chance that hose could heat up brake fluid annd cause unwanted results.
    "There are 3 kinds of men. The one that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves." Will Rogers

  11. #51

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    I have a heat robber on the front crossover tube to help with heat. The scat hose running from the front center to back will get HOT!!! I checked mine with A temp gun and it was over 200 degrees by my feet. I have not had any brake/battery issues to this point. Wolf hunters with similar set up, said they it was hot enough on the floor to start melting the plastic on a bag of 12 gauge shells on the floor. Mine has no outlet for front seat heat and I would not want one because feet are plenty hot already. If you wanted to steal some heat no need for welding just slot the side of the metal tube. Corey made a perforated tube on his I am waiting feedback if to is too hot for his feet.
    DENNY

  12. #52

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    Serious question. If you subscribe to the thinking that you and passengers should be dressed appropriately to walk away and survive after a forced landing, how do they get cold in the plane? The reason I use heat in my planes is to defrost the windows. I dress the same as if I was going to ride a snowgo that day. Wifey, too.
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  13. #53
    mvivion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post
    Serious question. If you subscribe to the thinking that you and passengers should be dressed appropriately to walk away and survive after a forced landing, how do they get cold in the plane? The reason I use heat in my planes is to defrost the windows. I dress the same as if I was going to ride a snowgo that day. Wifey, too.
    Yes.

    MTV

  14. #54

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    The heater in my PA-12 is pretty anemic (no muffler).
    My wife (who is always wrapped in a blanket while watching TV in a 70F-degree living room) and I always dress warm enough to spend at least 24-hours outside at -30F. I installed heaters in the seats (pure joy!) and she wraps up in the engine cover and is fine for the 1.5 hr. flight to our cabin.
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  15. #55
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post
    Serious question. If you subscribe to the thinking that you and passengers should be dressed appropriately to walk away and survive after a forced landing, how do they get cold in the plane? The reason I use heat in my planes is to defrost the windows. I dress the same as if I was going to ride a snowgo that day. Wifey, too.
    not even WALK AWAY, but SIT right at crash site, with a couple broken ankles at a minimum...

  16. #56

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    Since I get so little heat from the muff on my exhaust pipe, I was thinking about using a 12-volt blower to take cabin air back to the intake of the heat muff, instead of using -30-degree ram air. This would mean another hole in the firewall. Need opinions from the experts before I try this.

    My experience is that heated air tends to move forward in the cockpit, so dumping all the heat into the rear-seat area seems to make sense.

    I also intend to hang a blanket behind the rear seat to reduce the cabin volume, weather-strip the doors (done), seal the slots for the elevator trim and seal up around brake pedals and other cockpit floor openings.

  17. #57

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    From a carbon monoxide standpoint the fresh are might be better. May or may not be an issue.
    DENNY
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