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Propeller Paint

Helmetfire

FRIEND
Caldwell, Texas
I have an early Borer prop that has an anodized finish with no paint other than the flat black on the back side and yellow tips. I'd like to paint the front with a satin finish to better protect it from corrosion, make it match my plane a bit better, and still be easy to clean bugs off.

Not opposed to going the easy route with some rattle can paint, but want to make sure it's durable and can take the scrubbing bug punishment.

Any recommendations?

Thanks
 
depends on what the original paint was, spray the wrong stuff over existing paint and it might bubble up like you put paint remover on it.... then your quick touchup job turns into a strip and repaint big job. sad.. (don't ask how I know this..)
 
There is currently no paint on the front of the propeller (anodized aluminum finish) with the exception of the tips which will easily come off with some acetone.
 
Hangar talk down here in Phoenix has the feds up in arms over polished props. AI’s are refusing to sign off a bird with a polished prop. In my 50 plus years in aviation, this is a new one. DC-3’s, D-18’s, V-35’s, Tcrafts, 180’s, all over the years have been prettyied up with a shiny prop. What changed?
 
I have two polished props. Just tell them it came from the factory that way.

I, of course, would never, ever refinish my own prop, just like I would never fill my own compass. Both need a special certificate . . .

Prop paint is available in rattle cans from Tempo, I think. If I were a scofflaw, I would probably just use flat black from Duplicolor on the back side of my Dec prop. I have converted to Duplicolor from first Krylon and then Rustoleum.
 
If a polished prop bothers the Administrator lots, will a bare leading edge only bother it a little?

Gary
 
I heard that it is a certification question. The prop is certified with a coat of paint, and if you take it off you are outside the type cert. However, Mooney, possibly Bellanca, and others delivered aircraft with polished props, and that is your authority. Has only a little to do with corrosion control. Just what I heard . . .
 
I, of course, would never, ever refinish my own prop, just like I would never fill my own compass. Both need a special certificate . . .
Yeah I about laughed out loud when I was advised that filling a compass legally required an A/P. I was filling my compass at the time. I guess that kerosene is tricky stuff.
 
After watching Jerry at Dominion Propeller fine tune the balance on my borer prop years ago with light dustings of spray paint I never thought painting a prop myself was a very good idea. Just food for thought.
 
Yeah I about laughed out loud when I was advised that filling a compass legally required an A/P. I was filling my compass at the time. I guess that kerosene is tricky stuff.

Aha, point proven!
Everyone knows that compasses should be filled with whiskey (hence the name).
 
After watching Jerry at Dominion Propeller fine tune the balance on my borer prop years ago with light dustings of spray paint I never thought painting a prop myself was a very good idea. Just food for thought.

Assuming the prop is already balanced, an equal number of coats per blade isn't going to make a discernable change. The engine is going to be further out than that. The only way to get the entire package properly balanced is with a Dyna-Vibe.
 
I heard that it is a certification question. The prop is certified with a coat of paint, and if you take it off you are outside the type cert. . . .

If that IS the case, just shoot a coat of clear over the shiny stuff. Prop is pretty, and the feds have their coat of paint applied.

Web
 
Easy to balance a prop with paint if you make the cones up to hold it. You'd be amazed how little paint on the tip it takes. Those of us with wooden props did it every 2 years

Glenn
 
I may be wrong, but I think there is a specific procedure to coating/painting props specified by the manufacturer, that does not include polishing bare metai. That was the gripe the Feds had. it is outside the specifications. Polishing is fine for those who have lots of time and without adverse conditions like scrub, sand, water spray etc. It's a lot of work on an active airplane. We did it on a couple of Bull Stearmans but after you greased the prop, it started all over again. MT white or Hartzell CF black looks nice!
 
But an airframe manufacturer gets approval for things we cannot do. Champion uses Stewart Warner engine gauges; we cannot. If the airplane left the factory with a polished prop, then the FAA has approved it.

By the way, I do not think an A&P is authorized to paint props or fill whiskey compasses. Good thing I did not know any of that in 1962, when I set my instruments up.

Glenn is correct - a good wood prop needs varnish every few years. It has to go to Sensenich for that. I, of course, have never, ever varnished a wood prop. Nope - not once in 55 years. I deny it. Totally.
 
Yeah I about laughed out loud when I was advised that filling a compass legally required an A/P. I was filling my compass at the time. I guess that kerosene is tricky stuff.

Actually it's considered instrument overhaul and needs to be done by repair station. One of our mechanics lost his a&p for that. Crazy as that sounds


Sent from my iPhone using SuperCub.Org mobile app
 
most prop shops use a paint by Sherwin-Williams called POLANE
Clean & scrub prop with ScotchBrite & prime with an epoxy primer.
Re-paint with Polane

Should look great again.
 
STRANGEST to me are the instructions provided by MT to fill cracks in blade tips with epoxy. Since that is the manufacturers instruction..... Any informed comments on this one?
 
Right. no moisture in th wood inner core. I'm talking about CRACKS vs. cracks. I solved this permanently by converting of one the "Cubskys" to Hartzell CF. I'm being very careful with the remaining MT.
 
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