Removing fabric and replacing with panels.

I'm new to the whole taking part in owning a Cub but a long time lurker on these forums. We had a few issues to take care on the family's newly acquired PA-18-150 that required cutting the inside fabric under the instrument panel. Since it was open the mechanic and I started to checkout everything we possibly could. I felt one of the fuel lines going to the fuel selector and noticed it was very tight against the frame and it was wet with a small amount of fuel. Pushed on it just a bit and it started to leak BAD. Turns out by the stains on the fabric removed it had been seeping a while. Due to the amount of MX issues we dealt with so far we decided to remove the fabric and replace with panels. Kinda want to have all that crap accessible from a MX point of view. I see tape and zip ties where metal lines rub. What do you all use or recommend? And any tips on installing metal panels? Was going to make them with .25 2024-T3 just picking any of your thoughts. The plane was rebuilt spring of 2016 and has less than 15 hours. I would have flown it more but been grounded waiting for special issuance medical. Gives me time to learn about the plane.

Tape and zip-ties BAD practice! Never zip tie fuel lines directly to structure! You can split short pieces of rubber fuel line to insulate rigid fuel line from structure then tape over and around structure as a secure and long life way. Some use sealant globs, felt pads, etc.

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TVATIVAK71 said:

.... And any tips on installing metal panels? Was going to make them with .25 2024-T3 ....

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I'm sure that this is just a typo as you certainly don't want to use 1/4" plate for interior side panels. .025" 2024-T3 would be more appropriate.

If you have not already, take a look a Kydex. A few people here have used it for interior panels with some really cool results.

Piper used 3003 aluminum .020" thick. I use 2024-T3 .020". The stock fuel system used clips welded to some of the tubes with friction tape wrapped around the fuel line. Looks like a bad bend job where you rubbed through. That is a tricky area.

Is this the line that is rubbing?

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My bad! Yeah, I meant .025 on the aluminum panels. I'll look into the Kydex idea more as well. With either material though I'm kinda wondering what attach points to use (or make) that would hold it secure to the wall. Not many ready built tabs to put nut plates on.LOL Adell clamps maybe?

Actually there are plenty of tabs originally but someone probably cut them off to put fabric on.

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Steve, it's the line running off the tee on the forward side of the selector. It's up against the big tube on the left side of your pic. It is VERY close if not rubbing also on that angle of the selector mount aft of the tee as well. Just going to bend or remake those.

I had to rotate the elbow outboard a little and the tee is twisted to allow clearance.






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That's what kind of clearance/bend I'm shooting for while fixing this problem. Nice job!

.040 Kydex makes great panels. The flexibility is good for installing and removing but more tabs will be necessary for a good installation. Easy to clean, no dents, and no paint to scratch will make it look better for longer than aluminum.

http://www.supercub.org/forum/showthread.php?21099-Kydex

http://www.supercub.org/forum/showthread.php?37559-Kydex-Forming-Interior-Panels

These days carbon fiber is an option. Lightweight and tough but Kydex is easier to work with and won’t make you itch when working with it.

Who did that rebuild? Very poor/dangerous work. The first thing I would do is lay eyes on every bit of the fuel system I would suspect similar issues near the upper baggage and right wing root. You can glue velcro to the tubes to hold the panels on if needed. One thing when building the panels make large access ports over the fuel valve and trim system. Cover with a smaller panel, makes working on/inspecting a lot easier.
DENNY

What is that box hanging below the panel on the left side? It is in the path of the left boot when you enter exit.
DENNY

DENNY that box is part of the Garmin ADS-B package and actually it's out of the way. Just looks close! We are glad to get a better look inside the fabric and yes, going to make everything easy to get to at inspection time. The entire fuel system is being gone through as we speak. What a pain it was to remove ALL the fuel. Yes, I do know who did the rebuild. This aircraft was let's say "gifted" to a family member through a nonprofit. Just pay the taxes and take delivery! No warranty implied or expressed. Just a zero timed overhauled bird.............so we thought. That being said, thats all I will discuss about the matter. I just want to get our family plane up to 100% and FINALLY have access to a Supercub. I learned a very long time ago the aviation community up here is like a glass house. Got to be real careful when you throw that stone. It's nice to have my IA as well as some local experts and this forum to get the info we need. Back to the plane. If no tabs are available to attach the wall panels what ideas have any of you all seen or used? Looks like we are going to use Kydex.

if i didn't already post, Kydex working examples

https://goo.gl/photos/HmUX41Zzr5sDagzDA

Mike, that Kydex work is awesome! Got me thinking of interior ideas. Actually drove past your hangar yesterday.LOL

Well I thought the Kydex idea was great but decided to use some of the aluminum I had left over from a Cessna rebuild project. I don’t think it looks that bad and the whole panel can be easily removed. Cleaned it all up and replaced some fuel lines due to bad flares that were leaking at several fittings. Being a lurker for info on this site paid off big time!






One of several bad flares that leaked.

TVATIVAK71 said:

.. due to bad flares that were leaking at several fittings..

View attachment 35537
One of several bad flares that leaked.

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I swear it's actually the fittings that are made wrong... that the flare end is not in line with the threads... old fittings didn't have the problems we have the last couple decades....