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My cub rebuild...

Do you recall the part number / link for the airspeed? I need one as well but the ones that I have checked are only for Exp. useage and made in China. The markings on yours look good so I assume it was a custom order.

The Cub is looking good! Long hours will take its toll on you so get lots of rest and recheck everything twice or more before you fly.

Congratulations on the completion.
 
cubpilot2 said:
Do you recall the part number / link for the airspeed? I need one as well but the ones that I have checked are only for Exp. useage and made in China. The markings on yours look good so I assume it was a custom order.
Click to expand...

I don't believe anything Falcon makes is 'certified', tso'd, etc. I've seen several fail accuracy checks right out of the box. Your airplane, your choice. Just be careful.

If you want good markings at the low end, go to the Wings & Wheels website and look at Winters ASI gauges. Accurate, light weight and made for gliders. They have the usual style and also one that uses a needle that goes around one and a half times. The markings are on a spiral pattern. Since they are designed for gliders, the low end markings are VERY wide apart.

And if you feel the need for paperwork, they are JAA certified which most faa types will accept for field approval.

Web
 
Also if you are interested in accuracy throughout the range, you will need to be certain that the pitot tube is within 10 degrees of the airflow. At the low speed end that angle will likely be exceeded. My airspeed is accurate between 40 and 160 mph. Below 40 the error is 5 mph or more.
 
cubdriver2 said:
My ASI goes to zero but doesn't move till about 25mph. But it might be my flip up pitot cover

Glenn
Click to expand...

I've not seen any that come off the peg lower than that. There's just not enough total pressure that's aligned with the tube to get them working any slower than that.

In my limited experience, anyway.
 
I am going to have to look again when I get to the hangar. I know it is the certified airspeed. May not be a falcon then.
 
I've flown a couple Supercubs with appropriately marked certified helicopter ASI's. Good resolution at the low end, where it's useful, but still limited by the AOA of the pitot tube, as well static system, if any. And +1 on Wirewienie's suggestion of Winter, although I personally dislike the 1-1/2 revolution units: Much harder to read/process at a glance. And in the end, it's really about learning to fly pitch angle, although a good ASI is a helpful crossreference.

Thanks. cubscout
 
Looks GREAT. A really nice looking Cub.

You might get spanked for your tail number lettering. I like it but here is what the reg says......




Applicable Code of Federal Regulations (CFR)
14 CFR Part 45, Identification and Registration Marking, prescribes the requirements of aircraft registration numbers.
[h=4]Required Physical Attributes[/h]For most fixed-wing aircraft, the marks must meet the following requirements:

  • Height: 12 inches
  • Width: two-thirds wide as they are high
  • The number "1" must be one-sixth as wide as high
  • Letters "M" and "W" may be as high as they are wide
  • Thickness: solid lines one-sixth as thick as the character is high
  • Spacing: no less than one-fourth of the character width
  • Uniformity: same height, width, thickness, and spacing on both sides of the aircraft.
  • The following aircraft may display marks at least 2 inches high:
    • Aircraft that had 2-inch markings displayed before November 1, 1981, and an aircraft manufactured after November 2, 1981, but before January 1, 1983, may display those marks until the aircraft has been repainted, restored, or changed.
    • Antique/classic aircraft: Aircraft built at least 30 years ago, or an aircraft issued an experimental certificate under FAR 21.191(d) or (g) for operation as an exhibition aircraft or as an amateur-built that has the same external configuration as an aircraft built at least 30 years ago may display marks at least 2 inches high.
  • Just don't want you to get blind sighted.
Bill

 
skywagon8a said:
Also if you are interested in accuracy throughout the range, you will need to be certain that the pitot tube is within 10 degrees of the airflow. At the low speed end that angle will likely be exceeded. ...
Click to expand...

I bet this issue could be dealt with partially by changing the angle/cut of the END of the pitot tube.... strait on full flow, slow presents larger OVAL because of cut angle........ hmmmm, gonna have to ponder that...
 
mike mcs repair said:
I bet this issue could be dealt with partially by changing the angle/cut of the END of the pitot tube.... strait on full flow, slow presents larger OVAL because of cut angle........ hmmmm, gonna have to ponder that...
Click to expand...
Mike, pointing the tube down about 10 degrees at cruise will give you about 20 degree range. Cutting the END as you suggest could induce turbulence at the tip thus generating further error. As with most everything one must experiment to find the optimum angle. In this case with the low number indicator, tipping the pitot down a bit will improve the low speed numbers.
 
I had a buddy have this exact problem when he was trying to get his E-AB certificated this summer. Luckily his number was vinyl so he just went back to the shop.

Bill Rusk said:
Looks GREAT. A really nice looking Cub.

You might get spanked for your tail number lettering. I like it but here is what the reg says......




Applicable Code of Federal Regulations (CFR)
14 CFR Part 45, Identification and Registration Marking, prescribes the requirements of aircraft registration numbers.
[h=4]Required Physical Attributes[/h]For most fixed-wing aircraft, the marks must meet the following requirements:

  • Height: 12 inches
  • Width: two-thirds wide as they are high
  • The number "1" must be one-sixth as wide as high
  • Letters "M" and "W" may be as high as they are wide
  • Thickness: solid lines one-sixth as thick as the character is high
  • Spacing: no less than one-fourth of the character width
  • Uniformity: same height, width, thickness, and spacing on both sides of the aircraft.
  • The following aircraft may display marks at least 2 inches high:
    • Aircraft that had 2-inch markings displayed before November 1, 1981, and an aircraft manufactured after November 2, 1981, but before January 1, 1983, may display those marks until the aircraft has been repainted, restored, or changed.
    • Antique/classic aircraft: Aircraft built at least 30 years ago, or an aircraft issued an experimental certificate under FAR 21.191(d) or (g) for operation as an exhibition aircraft or as an amateur-built that has the same external configuration as an aircraft built at least 30 years ago may display marks at least 2 inches high.
  • Just don't want you to get blind sighted.
Bill

Click to expand...
 
Bill Rusk said:
Looks GREAT. A really nice looking Cub.

You might get spanked for your tail number lettering. I like it but here is what the reg says......
Click to expand...

Thanks! Ya, my IA and I had this discussion a month or so ago. I have new block letters ready to go on, I just haven't done it yet. Should probably do that in the next few days. Hoping to fire it up for the first time tomorrow if everything works out.
 
WanaBNACub said:
Thanks! Ya, my IA and I had this discussion a month or so ago. I have new block letters ready to go on, I just haven't done it yet. Should probably do that in the next few days. Hoping to fire it up for the first time tomorrow if everything works out.
Click to expand...

DON"T put them on yet.... fed's always gotta find a couple things to grumble about... make them easy for them to find..
 
Yesterday was a really big day that has been a long time coming! I put in about 13 hours and just about got her finished up. Should be firing it up on Thursday after a few cowling tweaks. Other than that she is complete. I will also be doing the weight and balance sometime Thursday. I have worked pretty hard to lighten it up a little so I am anxious to find out if it paid off! Engine break in will begin as soon as the logbooks are finished up.
21318866_10210605226189739_8329125687107075747_o.jpg


21318821_10210605226229740_1100711655998288714_o.jpg


21427129_10210605226589749_8648053985839117465_o.jpg


21427101_10210605226789754_4565276519520232645_o.jpg


21368622_10210605226829755_9059542724536023367_o.jpg
 
cubpilot2 said:
What prop are you running?
Click to expand...

For break in I have my cruise prop on it. A Sensinich 76EM8-0-54. In a week or so I am going to be trying out a Sensenich W80CM8 wood/fiberglass composite prop until the Catto's get certified. Waiting on the spacer plates to show up.

21427147_10210625259890569_5251253592859183195_o.jpg
 
Well, the cub is finished, paperwork is all done, and break in has begun. 1.7 hours on it yesterday and even with the cruise prop I can tell there are several performance increases. Still too early to tell just how much better, but I am very impressed so far. I shaved over 89 lbs off of it during the rebuild. My dry weight prior to the rebuild was 1305 with the 0-360, 35's and belly pod. My new final weight after the build was 1215.5 dry with the 0-360, 35's and pod. That is with the 34.5lb sensenich prop. The new W80CM8 prop weighs 17lbs, so it will be a sub 1200# 180hp cub.

21457874_10210626307676763_7896816318545707965_o.jpg


21415074_10210624056180477_5726094421877537941_o.jpg
 
WanaBNACub said:
For break in I have my cruise prop on it. A Sensinich 76EM8-0-54. In a week or so I am going to be trying out a Sensenich W80CM8 wood/fiberglass composite prop until the Catto's get certified. Waiting on the spacer plates to show up.

21427147_10210625259890569_5251253592859183195_o.jpg
Click to expand...
I'm interested in hearing how it works. I've never seen one with out the clear varnish on it. That looks sweet. I wonder how it holds up in the rain.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
RaisedByWolves said:
I'm interested in hearing how it works. I've never seen one with out the clear varnish on it. That looks sweet. I wonder how it holds up in the rain.
Click to expand...
It should, with the fiberglass covering now and the nickel leading edge and tip. That was the only real complaint I heard from anyone that ran the older version of it. I will keep you posted!

mike mcs repair said:
what was your total hours into rebuild project(labor)
Click to expand...
The last time I totaled it up I was just over 1200. There was probably another 30-50 since then.
 
Last edited:
Gorgeous plane! I love the paint scheme! Looking forward to hearing about how she performs! Congratulations on a job extremely well done:up
 
So far I am very happy with it! Anxious to get that prop and see just how well it does! For us certified guys that cant run the Catto's yet, I think it will be a great alternative. Not much out there for the 0-360 guys...
 
WanaBNACub said:
So far I am very happy with it! Anxious to get that prop and see just how well it does! For us certified guys that cant run the Catto's yet, I think it will be a great alternative. Not much out there for the 0-360 guys...
Click to expand...

Fiberglass instead of varnish? All the wood prop guys complain about the rain eating the varnish. That sounds like it will fix that problem.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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