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Thread: My cub rebuild...

  1. #1
    WanaBNACub's Avatar
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    My cub rebuild...

    I have debated for a long time on posting anything online, but decided to do it after all... On Nov 6th, 2016 I was on a duck hunt with a good friend in western Alaska. I had a severe wind shear event on takeoff that quickly changed from a quartering headwind to a strong quartering tailwind just as I started to rotate. It pushed my cub over 30' off course just as the mains lifted off the ground and into a huge cottonwood log and then into a steep narrow creek bank. The right gear pushed up into the fuselage and tossed the plane sideways. As it came back down on the left gear, the gear leg collapsed under the side load. The resulting cartwheel did significant damage to my cub and changed my life for the near term... I have always tried to make the best of everything in life and have decided that with the help of a really great IA, I was going to try and do the entire rebuild myself with his advice, help and him looking over my work. My plan is to work on getting my A&P out of the rebuild and working with him on several other projects. The second objective lighten up my cub significantly and make it a more capable workhorse cub! It will be quite an adventure and will lead to a lifetime of adventures when it is completed! I also started a facebook group for those that are on there that is documenting my rebuild and also an open forum for other bush plane rebuilds. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1837244029862308/


    It all happened in a flash and was pretty violent. I was able to keep it from flipping over and flew it all the way to the stop... Someone was looking out for me and I walked away without a scratch. The troubling thing to me is the 406 ELT was never activated... Didn't leave me a very warm fuzzy about their effectiveness... I always fly with a sat phone and an Inreach and my wife tracks every single flight with the Inreach. This reinforces its value to me! Currently I am about halfway done with the rebuild so I will be posting quickly over the next few days to catch up. We got started on disassembling it a few days after the crash so I could get it back in my hangar, but didn't really get to start the rebuild until Dec 1st.







    The right side gear fitting and left wing took the majority of the damage. I started stripping the fabric off a few days later to see just how bad it was.





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  2. #2

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    Glad you're ok Cory. Airplanes can be fixed...
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    tedwaltman1's Avatar
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    Good job for your determination, dedication and follow thru on this project. Keep moving forward!
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    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Glad your ok also. I cartwheeled my beloved Pa11 twice and walked away also without a scratch and my ELT never went off either. Good luck with your rebuild, I couldn't even look at mine for a couple years because it hurt doing so. I look forward to following your rebuild and all the great hunting pictures that you'll post after its done.

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"
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    WanaBNACub's Avatar
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    Mitch's jig was tied up for a bit when I got started so he suggested I start with the aileron/wing rebuild first. That way I would learn fabric work incrementally, from an easy part to more challenging stuff. The left Aileron got tweaked pretty good on the end, so I started by learning aluminum fabrication and repair on a small surface as well as the fabric work. Mitch showed me the ropes and turned me loose on it. I drilled out all the rivets and disassembled the damaged end, rebuilt it and put it all back together. Then he taught me the basics of fabric work and I got started on that. It turned out decent, so he trusted me to move on to the wing.







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    WanaBNACub's Avatar
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    Then I moved on to the wing. Those repairs went together a little easier than I expected they would. It was very tedious, but with Mitch's knowledge it was pretty easy to pick up on. I am really enjoying fabric work. We had to replace all but 3 ribs and lots of wing parts. Leading and trailing edges, flying wires, etc...











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  7. #7
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Most of the older A&P that live around here started down the road by first bending an airplane, Your in good company Cory

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"
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    Bearhawk Builder's Avatar
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    Thanks for sharing the rebuild, the only problem I see is the beer your drinking.
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  9. #9
    WanaBNACub's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cubdriver2 View Post
    Most of the older A&P that live around here started down the road by first bending an airplane, Your in good company Cory

    Glenn
    Not the way I envisioned this would work out, but necessity is the mother of invention! After getting laid off from the North Slope Oil Fields last summer and then shortly before the accident, beginning a new "full time student" career to get my commercial pilot ratings, there was no way I could afford to do the rebuild other than what the insurance would cover. So my decision to do as much as I could myself was the best option I could come up with. I have a solid mechanical and welding background from 26 years in the military as a mechanic, so that helps a little.

  10. #10
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WanaBNACub View Post
    The troubling thing to me is the ELT was never activated.
    it's one axis ONLY, for aircraft ELT G switch(FORWARD ONLY)....

    you crashed sideways.. you need a helicopter ELT if you want to do that....

  11. #11
    WanaBNACub's Avatar
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    It initially was a pretty serious jolt that was straight ahead when the right tire and gear hit the creek bank and shoved the fitting 4" up into the fuselage folding it under. It felt at least as bad, if not worse than the cartwheel after it ended up sideways. Should that not have set it off?

  12. #12
    WanaBNACub's Avatar
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    The fuselage welding took the longest. To get it to fit in the jig we had to remove a significant part of the lower front structure. Lots of cutting, coping and fitting, but after about 9 days in the jig I had had it fitting like a new airframe. With a few improvements that my IA likes to do, it should fly better than it did before! And we lightened it up by around 8 lbs...



    We had to cut a front gear cluster out to get the fuselage to fit in the jig, but this was just the beginning of the cutting and cleaning up of the fuselage.



    The new cabane v held things in place while I coped and spliced the framework back together.



    We also had to spend some time tweaking the rest of the fuselage to get it to line up perfectly in the jig, but once we did it fit like a glove!





    After the welding we still had to do a little tweaking to get the door and window to fit back, but now it fits way better than it did when I bought it even. Going to be nice to be able to shut the door without twisting it a little!



    The gingerbread for the boot cowl and false boot cowl took some time to shape it right...
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  13. #13
    WanaBNACub's Avatar
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    Once the fuselage welding was done and it was time to send it off to powder coat with Mark Bills and the guys from Advance Powder Coating. Marks experience and reputation up here made it worth the trip just for the time spent talking with him!





    The finished product was better than expected. I gained about 2 lbs back over the painted fuselage I sent in, but I think it was worth the tradeoff... There is lots of other weight savings to be had in other less important areas.



    Now its time to really get moving on the build!
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  14. #14
    WanaBNACub's Avatar
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    I picked up a full set of Carbon Fiber flooring and rear seat material from Randy Apling of Carbon Concepts, and the weight savings continues... I straightened out the old floorboards enough to use them as a template, and started by tightening up the fitup with tape. Then layed out the new floorboards, seat bottom, and forward and aft baggage floors. Saved just over 12 lbs between all those items over my old stuff... Thats huge to me! And that is before I did any cutting on the carbon fiber. Probably closer to 13 lbs as it sits now...





    This stuff is super nice quality and very light. Its easy to work with and very easy to cut with a jig saw and hole saw drills. I definitely recommend it for anyone doing a full cub rebuild or a re-fabric.



    Fitup went fairly quickly!
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  15. #15
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Cory it looks like you didn't add the front seatbelt attach when you were welding. You can still do this like I did



    ~[URL=http://s774.photobucket.com/user/cubdriver2/media/28184_zpszamh1che.jpeg.html][/URL

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"
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  16. #16
    Cub junkie's Avatar
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    Nice work. You are going to know your cub well.
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  17. #17
    WanaBNACub's Avatar
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    The next step was putting all the pedals, brakes and brackets in... Gotta love installing and adjusting the rudder and brake pedals... That took me most of the day, and lots of cussin by itself...







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    Keep the pictures coming, really like the carbon fiber floor boards...

    Mike

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    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WanaBNACub View Post
    The next step was putting all the pedals, brakes and brackets in... Gotta love installing and adjusting the rudder and brake pedals... That took me most of the day, and lots of cussin by itself...
    back when Univair or was it when Univair ran out of pipers New Old Stock... rudder pedal springs were not hard to install... but since the late 1990's univars BOGUS PARTS do NOT match the dimensions of the drawing... still surprprised the FAA have not busted them on this..

    this is how it SHOULD BE... not the WIDE weird thing they try to pass off as the proper one...

    http://www.supercubproject.com/drawi...s/A3290338.pdf

  20. #20
    WanaBNACub's Avatar
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    I wondered about that...there is no reason they should be that difficult. It's such a simple design.

  21. #21
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WanaBNACub View Post
    The next step was putting all the pedals, brakes and brackets in... Gotta love installing and adjusting the rudder and brake pedals... That took me most of the day, and lots of cussin by itself...

    WanaBNACub,
    I see that you have the North River Brakes. Here are a couple of pictures showing a reservoir attachment with a needle valve to each. Any container can be used for the reservoir. I made this one out of a Lucite rod. This simplifies adjusting the fluid level for temperature changes and brake wear. You can even adjust the level in flight if you are so inclined.



    N1PA
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    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Cory, Looking great. What is the bracket above the longeron and behind the front gear fittings?
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers
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  23. #23
    DJ's Avatar
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    Thanks for sharing. We all get to learn. I'm really curious what your total weight savings will be.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of His hands. Psalms 19:1
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  24. #24
    WanaBNACub's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    WanaBNACub,
    I see that you have the North River Brakes. Here are a couple of pictures showing a reservoir attachment with a needle valve to each. Any container can be used for the reservoir. I made this one out of a Lucite rod. This simplifies adjusting the fluid level for temperature changes and brake wear. You can even adjust the level in flight if you are so inclined.
    That looks interesting. Do you have a close up picture of the reservoir?

  25. #25
    WanaBNACub's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    Cory, Looking great. What is the bracket above the longeron and behind the front gear fittings?
    Steve, Were running the brake lines out the side rather than out the bottom.

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  26. #26
    WanaBNACub's Avatar
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    A few more pieces of the puzzle are starting to come together. My old interior with diamond plate floor boards and thick kydex interior panels was really heavy. The Carbon fiber stuff from Randy is going to be a huge weight savings...





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  27. #27
    Eddie Foy's Avatar
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    Where did you get the seat frame. Folding back mod would be good.
    Eddie Foy
    "Put out my hand and touched the face of God"
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  28. #28
    WanaBNACub's Avatar
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    This cub came with it, but Airframes, atlee, and lots of other places sell them. That is definitely a must do mod for me.

  29. #29
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WanaBNACub View Post
    That looks interesting. Do you have a close up picture of the reservoir?
    [IMG]file:///C:/Users/Peter/Pictures/2017-04-01%20Brake%20resevoir/IMG_0070.JPG[/IMG]

    I can't seem to post pictures directly. PM me with your E-mail.
    N1PA
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  30. #30
    WanaBNACub's Avatar
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    Randy at Carbon Concepts made me a one of a kind panel from an aluminum mockup that I had designed for the cub. I am going to tweak the mounting just a bit yet as I am not totally happy with how it fits in the boot cowl, but I really like the design. This picture shows what goes into making a one off carbon part from the aluminum mockup we started with at the bottom. From that he made the wooden plug above it to make the mold from. The second from top is the finished mold and the top is the finished product.We made it so that the CF wraps around on all sides for strength, and also for ease of mounting into the boot cowl. No angle brackets are needed.The top portion of the panel slopes back at an angle, so the flange around the top had to be made to the proper angle for mounting.








    The finished product before cutouts is 12 oz. After cutouts we should be down in the 9 oz range.



    I am going to raise the panel up 1 1/2" from this picture for better stick clearance. I am also going to make a 2 piece boot cowl over the top that will have a larger removable center section for access behind the panel from the top as well as the bottom for future upgrades or repairs...

    Last edited by WanaBNACub; 04-03-2017 at 11:37 AM.
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  31. #31
    WanaBNACub's Avatar
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    Lots of progress in the last few days. New fuel lines routed for the dakota 24 gal tanks. Trim system finished, more interior work done. I welded a bracket on the front of the seat frame and moved the two electrical solenoids there, so they are out of the way of the brakes for servicing. That was a big complaint of mine before the rebuild. Should make life easier. After talking with Wireweinie though, I think I am going to move the starter solenoid to the firewall.





    I closed off the upper baggage for several reasons. It will be less interior space to heat in the winter, better looks, better security of items in the upper baggage, and it allows me to run a three piece fuel line from the rear of the right wing tank to the valve so if you ever have to change a line because of chaffing or leaks it will be simple. Almost impossible with the fabric on for a 1 piece line. It also cleans up the fuel line install with the L-21 glass. No longer a fuel line running through both side windows...












    Nice having all that extra room in there to service the brakes!



    Hopefully I will be covering the fuselage next week. Have some electrical work to route first, but its coming together...
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  32. #32
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Looks great! Thank you for sharing your build. Also thank you for including full-size and excellent photos. I'm really enjoying following this.


    Thanks
    Bill
    Very Blessed.
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  33. #33
    spinner2's Avatar
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    Sorry to see your troubles Cory. But you'll end up with a nicer Cub in the end.

    One thing I noticed that I'd change if it were mine is that I'd eliminate the springs from the front seat frame backrest. On the suggestion of a very experienced Cub guy I put a thin aluminum sheet on there when I had my -18. it was a bit lighter than the springs but the real purpose was to increase braking effectiveness. It seems unlikely to help, but it does. When you're putting a lot of heel force on the brakes you're also pushing hard against the seat back. The springs flex back and some of your braking effectiveness is lost.

    Of course you have to be getting on the brakes hard but with your big 35's and off airport landings I'm sure you do at times.
    Nicht der Ort fur mich.
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    SJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spinner2 View Post
    One thing I noticed that I'd change if it were mine is that I'd eliminate the springs from the front seat frame backrest. On the suggestion of a very experienced Cub guy I put a thin aluminum sheet on there when I had my -18. it was a bit lighter than the springs but the real purpose was to increase braking effectiveness. It seems unlikely to help, but it does. When you're putting a lot of heel force on the brakes you're also pushing hard against the seat back. The springs flex back and some of your braking effectiveness is lost.

    Of course you have to be getting on the brakes hard but with your big 35's and off airport landings I'm sure you do at times.
    Very interesting, Dan. Never thought about that.

    sj
    "Often Mistaken, but Never in Doubt"
    ------------------------------------------
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  35. #35
    SJ's Avatar
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    Cory, as others have said, the awesome pictures really help!

    sj
    "Often Mistaken, but Never in Doubt"
    ------------------------------------------
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  36. #36
    mvivion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spinner2 View Post
    Sorry to see your troubles Cory. But you'll end up with a nicer Cub in the end.

    One thing I noticed that I'd change if it were mine is that I'd eliminate the springs from the front seat frame backrest. On the suggestion of a very experienced Cub guy I put a thin aluminum sheet on there when I had my -18. it was a bit lighter than the springs but the real purpose was to increase braking effectiveness. It seems unlikely to help, but it does. When you're putting a lot of heel force on the brakes you're also pushing hard against the seat back. The springs flex back and some of your braking effectiveness is lost.

    Of course you have to be getting on the brakes hard but with your big 35's and off airport landings I'm sure you do at times.
    I'd do this as well.....or, what I did on my 11 seat back was I simply wrapped it in Poly Fiber and shrunk it good and tight. Very light and it is very solid. My motivation was a little different, however, in that I have a bad back, and my back just pushes right through those springs and gives me a curved spine....bad medicine. The fabric is super light, and so far after a couple years, seems to be holding up fine. In any case if it ever fails, I'll just wrap it again. Simple, quick and probably lighter than anything else.

    MTV
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  37. #37

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    I covered my seat back and bottom in Poly Fiber and attached the seat bottom cushion to the fabric with two strips of velcro
    Works great and weighs pretty much nothing.
    Pounds are made of ounces.
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  38. #38
    WanaBNACub's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spinner2 View Post
    Sorry to see your troubles Cory. But you'll end up with a nicer Cub in the end.

    One thing I noticed that I'd change if it were mine is that I'd eliminate the springs from the front seat frame backrest. On the suggestion of a very experienced Cub guy I put a thin aluminum sheet on there when I had my -18. it was a bit lighter than the springs but the real purpose was to increase braking effectiveness. It seems unlikely to help, but it does. When you're putting a lot of heel force on the brakes you're also pushing hard against the seat back. The springs flex back and some of your braking effectiveness is lost.

    Of course you have to be getting on the brakes hard but with your big 35's and off airport landings I'm sure you do at times.

    I have been thinking about doing that throughout this build so far. I think I am going to go ahead and do it. It already has an aluminum bottom panel so might as well do both...

  39. #39
    Iflylower's Avatar
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    +3. Did the same with my back seat. Fabric shrunk it. Super light. The smallest amount of pleasant give. Nice and comfortable. And again - super light. I only shrunk it to 250deg (first shrink stage, if I remember that right)
    If you're lucky enough to fly, you're lucky enough

    "There are three things in life that people like to stare at: a flowing stream, a crackling fire and a Zamboni clearing the ice." Charlie Brown

  40. #40
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Does Randy make a CF map pocket for the front kick panel?

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"
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