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Thread: Eatons new and improved heat vent mod

  1. #41
    aktango58's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaisedByWolves View Post
    Tig welding is fun. you just need to practice a lot
    I agree. Headed your way, JB said I can practice all I want on a frame. It is even painted so will show cracks if I heat it more than I should.

    Seriously, been working on aluminum first. Best advice I got, after the fact, start simple. a multi angled, multi sided gas tank was not the best project to start on

    Have come 4130 to do now when I get home. And stainless...
    I don't know where you've been me lad, but I see you won first Prize!

  2. #42
    RaisedByWolves's Avatar
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    Aluminum is tricky. I was playing with it the other day.


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  3. #43
    NorthcountryPilot's Avatar
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    Did/is anyone reproducing these? This is exactly what I was thinking of but if someone has already made them I'd be interested in buying instead of making.

    Ryan

  4. #44
    SteveE's Avatar
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    Not that I know of but I bet Larry vetterman could get it done. By the way, I reread the thread and all the comments about the jb weld. HA itís still holding up, no cracks, no problems at all. Linda really enjoyed the heat at the WAD this year.


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  5. #45
    Farmboy's Avatar
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    Iíll install one for you Ryan, just might take me a week, or three, and Iíd have to named on your insurance.


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  6. #46
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveE View Post
    Not that I know of but I bet Larry vetterman could get it done. By the way, I reread the thread and all the comments about the jb weld. HA it’s still holding up, no cracks, no problems at all. Linda really enjoyed the heat at the WAD this year.


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    JB Weld and you go hand in hand. Never heard back from Lee's text about Oklahoma?
    Steve Pierce

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    Will Rogers

  7. #47
    S2D's Avatar
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    You guys make things way too complicated. Got the y from spruce. Can't remember where I got the 2 inch flange, probably off an old heat shroud. Plenty of heat comes out both openings. if you're getting too much stick a glove in itClick image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by S2D; 10-10-2018 at 10:37 AM.
    I may be wrong but that probably won't stop me from arguing about it.

  8. #48
    NorthcountryPilot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farmboy View Post
    I’ll install one for you Ryan, just might take me a week, or three, and I’d have to named on your insurance.


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    Sure thing, just fly it straight to Idaho and I'll pick it up there. Thanks!
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  9. #49
    NorthcountryPilot's Avatar
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    I copied S2D. Might require a few tweaks. I have an idea for a retainer tab to hold it onto the firewall and possibly a deflector for front and maybe a splitter for the back depending on what the lady thinks after some seat time. Currently the rear is loose so it could be moved around. She should almost stick it up her pant leg, maybe thatíll keep her happy. Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #50
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Let me fly all day in the J3 even below zero










    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

  11. #51
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ID:	39448So, when your heat vent blows directly against your brake activator cylinders, and it's a cool morning, and you top off the fluid, and you fly around a while with the heater on, and you touch down on the flats......CLANG!!!! (cash registers)

    *Brand new kit-built cub, with slats, no less...being rebuilt by an Ak guy, right now....
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  12. #52

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    My heat go's direct from firewall to backseat right over the top of the brakes. I have wondered if it could heat them enough to cause that problem. I might try to come up with some type of insulation around to tube to keep the heat away from the batteries.
    DENNY
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  13. #53
    BC12D-4-85's Avatar
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    I thought I was the only one to ever bend a prop due to heated brake cylinders. Locked up the left unit the rear heat was blowing on on a PA-18A. A few landings warmed the brakes and the combo did...well looking at the ground was different.

    Gary
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  14. #54

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    You guys got to enlighten me on this heating of the master cylinder. It actually got hot enough to cause expansion to compress the pads? Those are some tight brakes! And hot heater duct. Now I was planing on doing the same thing on my Javron but Should I really be concerned about warming up the master cylinder(stock Scott)?

    Blue Skies
    If you get lost while flying, don't try hail a cop. Pick up the first railroad you find and hug it until you get somewhere.
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  15. #55
    S2D's Avatar
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    I don't run mine under the seat. I make it long enough and run it along the side. Back seater can use it to warm anything they want even defrost their glasses and I can take it and defrost the windshield or side windows or myself.

    Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
    I may be wrong but that probably won't stop me from arguing about it.

  16. #56
    BC12D-4-85's Avatar
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    I had factory Scott masters with new diaphragms and a two-piece 2" SCAT duct going from AD's defroster adapter to the rear area under the front seat. SCAT can be screwed together and the rear piece had been crushed and due for replacement so the front section terminated near the left master. Mechanic's helper had just pre-loaded the brake system with fluid (old style 4" bladder/pad brakes) and the left master got hot from the combination of braking and heater hose. The plane slid the left tire on grass but stopped on gravel with no brakes applied. Power was idle and prop scraped a couple of times but no nose-over. We had to open the brake filler cap to release fluid so the truck could drag the plane to the hangar for a cold beer.

    Gary
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  17. #57
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DENNY View Post
    My heat go's direct from firewall to backseat right over the top of the brakes. I have wondered if it could heat them enough to cause that problem. I might try to come up with some type of insulation around to tube to keep the heat away from the batteries.
    DENNY
    I'm kinda surprised, I'd never heard of it being an issue.... but I guess it makes sense if you really pump the brakes up that much... shouldn't be an issue with steve's or dakota's masters....

  18. #58
    fobjob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike mcs repair View Post
    I'm kinda surprised, I'd never heard of it being an issue.... but I guess it makes sense if you really pump the brakes up that much... shouldn't be an issue with steve's or dakota's masters....
    These were not stock Scottís, but I donít know which kind they actually were....

  19. #59

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    If I remember right (age and whine effects that) a while back someone made a post about brake issue when adding fluid in cold hanger and going flying on a hot day. That is what got me thinking about the issue. Does going along the side effect foot work from rear seat?
    DENNY

  20. #60
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fobjob View Post
    So, when your heat vent blows directly against your brake activator cylinders, and it's a cool morning, and you top off the fluid, and you fly around a while with the heater on, and you touch down on the flats......
    Quote Originally Posted by flylowslow View Post
    You guys got to enlighten me on this heating of the master cylinder. It actually got hot enough to cause expansion to compress the pads? Those are some tight brakes! And hot heater duct. Now I was planing on doing the same thing on my Javron but Should I really be concerned about warming up the master cylinder(stock Scott)?
    Quote Originally Posted by mike mcs repair View Post
    I'm kinda surprised, I'd never heard of it being an issue.... but I guess it makes sense if you really pump the brakes up that much...
    Quote Originally Posted by DENNY View Post
    If I remember right a while back someone made a post about brake issue when adding fluid in cold hanger and going flying on a hot day. That is what got me thinking about the issue. Does going along the side effect foot work from rear seat?
    This can happen with the North River booster mod on the original Scott masters when coupled with Cleveland disc brakes. When you have the fluid topped off so that there is a very short pedal travel to apply the brakes any expansion due to heat can drag or lock the brakes. The reverse can also happen if you top them off in a warm hangar then push it out into the cold. Unfortunately this is a drawback with this closed tight system.

    This is a mod which I made to eliminate the issue. There is a brass needle valve in place of the filler cap which connects a reservoir to each master cylinder. The valve can be reached in flight enough so that you can open and close the valve which will "normalize" the fluid pressure to whatever the ambient temperature is.
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	39450 Alternatively, don't top off the cylinder. Leave an air bubble in the adapter for expansion purposes.
    N1PA
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  21. #61
    RaisedByWolves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    This can happen with the North River booster mod on the original Scott masters when coupled with Cleveland disc brakes. When you have the fluid topped off so that there is a very short pedal travel to apply the brakes any expansion due to heat can drag or lock the brakes. The reverse can also happen if you top them off in a warm hangar then push it out into the cold. Unfortunately this is a drawback with this closed tight system.

    This is a mod which I made to eliminate the issue. There is a brass needle valve in place of the filler cap which connects a reservoir to each master cylinder. The valve can be reached in flight enough so that you can open and close the valve which will "normalize" the fluid pressure to whatever the ambient temperature is.
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	39450 Alternatively, don't top off the cylinder. Leave an air bubble in the adapter for expansion purposes.
    I used to keep mine topped off. Happened to me on a long taxi at love field in Dallas. Kept a 5/8 wrench in my seat pocket. At almost full power I asked if I could stop. They asked if I needed assistance. Reached down and cracked the nut and I was good to go. They got replaced with Dakotas shortly after. Now the brake pedal is always where I want it and I never have to add fluid.


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  22. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by DENNY View Post
    Does going along the side effect foot work from rear seat?
    DENNY
    Not for me, no rudder pedals to get in the way. I usually have the hose draped over my right leg anyway.
    I may be wrong but that probably won't stop me from arguing about it.

  23. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike mcs repair View Post
    I'm kinda surprised, I'd never heard of it being an issue.... but I guess it makes sense if you really pump the brakes up that much... shouldn't be an issue with steve's or dakota's masters....
    Thatís what I was thinking too Mike. Iíve never had that problem with Steves. My hose runs under the seat. Next time Iím in s2dís cub Iím gonnna grab his hose and put it down the back of his shirt.


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  24. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveE View Post
    Next time I’m in s2d’s cub I’m gonnna grab his hose and put it down the back of his shirt.
    I don't think you've been in the back seat of my airplane since you lost your glasses
    Heater hose would be a welcome change !!
    I may be wrong but that probably won't stop me from arguing about it.
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  25. #65
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  26. #66
    RaisedByWolves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NorthcountryPilot View Post
    I copied S2D. Might require a few tweaks. I have an idea for a retainer tab to hold it onto the firewall and possibly a deflector for front and maybe a splitter for the back depending on what the lady thinks after some seat time. Currently the rear is loose so it could be moved around. She should almost stick it up her pant leg, maybe that’ll keep her happy. Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks for the part numbers Ryan, here they are for everyone else. I screwed the flange to the firewall, and the Y slips over and is secured with a hose clamp, and can be removed in the summer. The Y also fits over the Atlee windshield heater box.

    08-04100 2" Y tube expanded
    08-04135 2" Alum flange
    Both ordered from Aircraft spruce.

  27. #67
    RaisedByWolves's Avatar
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    On atlee heater box








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  28. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveE View Post
    That’s what I was thinking too Mike. I’ve never had that problem with Steves. My hose runs under the seat. Next time I’m in s2d’s cub I’m gonnna grab his hose and put it down the back of his shirt.


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    Steves boosters are vented, so won’t be an issue. I had this happen on a CC cub with heater hose that blew right on the left brake master. Not pretty.

    Made me a big believer in vented brakes.

    MTV
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  29. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by mvivion View Post
    Steves boosters are vented, so won’t be an issue. I had this happen on a CC cub with heater hose that blew right on the left brake master. Not pretty.

    Made me a big believer in vented brakes.

    MTV
    I like having really good brakes, when i was in TX with my non vented boosters the temp change would leave you with crappy brakes, or the one time i flew into Dallas love field, reallllllly good brakes. I got off the runway with about 2000 rpm to taxi, had to ask ground if i could stop for a minute, grabbed my 5/8 wrench i kept in the seat back, cracked both of the tops and by the time they asked if i needed assistance i was good to go. The Dakota brakes went on shortly after, and i have had great success with them. Haven't had to do a dang thing to them, and they work great.

    Tom
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  30. #70
    RVBottomly's Avatar
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    With all the heat that puts out, has anybody tried sticking hoses in the wing roots?

    Hot wing super cubs?

  31. #71

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    Be careful adding heat to the wings or anything covered with fabric. You can still shrink the fabric and cause a lot of issues for yourself. Dark wing cubs have been know to pull tapes when they travel down south.
    DENNY
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  32. #72
    RVBottomly's Avatar
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    Well, there's that....

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