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Hangar floor coating

I did my 1500 square foot hangar when it was brand new with an off the shelf, locally available 2 part epoxy floor paint. I did it alone and without help or any previous knowledge. Washed the floor, did a muratic acid etch, rinsed the acid wash, allowed to dry and applied the epoxy. 12-15 years later it is doing great, it looks good and chicks dig it.

I think it cost me in the range of $300-400.

Only draw backs:
+the walk way where I drag the cub in with a tail dragger dragger, was slippery with snow on my feet and the floor. I redid a 3' wide walk way from the bi-fold door to the back wall where I walk when i pull it in, in this walk way I did it in a contrasting color with some rough course in it, as I recall it was a paint store available additive which was just ground walnut shells. It worked great! yes the oil drips in that segment are a bit harder to clean up, but not a big deal.
+it shows the dirt and proves I don't sweep as often as I should, it also shows poly-brush drips nicely.
+ I have a bit of flaking of from the concrete, like it was power screed too much, or too much calcium or something in the mix, anyway when it flakes off it obviously takes the epoxy coat with it, in the big picture no big deal.


Definitely wear a very good respirator! Buy several heavy duty paint rollers, commercial grade, I went through way too many cheap ones as the mixture is quite thick even at 80 degrees. A floor squeegee was useful as well.

You won't regret it, easy to do yourself. IMG_2797.JPGIMG_3577.JPG
 

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Was helping sweep out a hangar and was told this floor had been painted 30 years ago, and withstood years of working on round engine crop dusters.

It's held up good !
 

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I have a 65X80 epoxied hanger. It is beautiful, and nothing looks better. However, is not worth the stress. You have to put carpet under the tires, any moisture beneath the concrete or too much calcium in the concrete and it peels up. Fuel will stain it and and dropping a tool results in unkind words being spoken when the new chip in the epoxy becomes evident. If you rent out space, or have a mechanic do the annual, they can cause more damage than you will get back in rent. Much like me, the hangar floor is starting to look better from a distance! I feel that grinding is the way to go. You can put a stain in the concrete when it is poured or add strain at the time it is ground if desired. it can be ground superficially or go deeper for a terrazzo look. It is less slippery than the epoxy, and will result in much less stress for you OCD types. Epoxy is gorgeous if you are just storing planes, but if you are doing any work on them, I would reconsider.
Mark
 
On Sunday I helped Cape Air guys clear the snow in front of their hangar at MVY. Hangar door open so I decided to walk inside the hangar while pushing the snowblower- bad idea as a bit of snow underfoot on top of the shiny epoxy floor was slicker than ice. If I was not holding onto the snowblower I'd be wearing a cast or a sling this morning.
Side note. The hangar floor paint far out shined the ugly 402 paint. They fly some of the rattiest looking planes around.
 
I take note of what new box stores (Wally, Home Depot, etc) use on anew building. No epoxy, no tile, just a damn good (laser controlled nowadays) finish job, and the right sealer applied at the right time after the pour, to help the slab reach its full strength. Some grind and stain I think. My own slab in the hangar is au natural (?) And short of dropping a fire axe on the business end, dropped tools don't chip .
My first one I finished myself (with just enough knowledge to be dangerous) and for whatever reason, 20 years later, a dropped penny would leave a divot. The one now, pro finished, is SO much better, I'd feel bad to coat it with anything. Just swept it, it's cleaner then the house.
 
I have coated many Concrete floors with two part epoxy. Fist thing you must decide is if it has had a sealer of any sort applied. If it has then it will need to be removed. You can rent a floor grinder for this. Not fun but necessary. Then once you have the sealant ground off you can clean it with a muriatic acid. This would be your first step if there is no sealant applied. Once it's clean of all debris your ready for your epoxy. I would recommend a high quality industrial two part from a paint supplier not a box store. That's where perfessionals get there materials. Sorry lowe . Just saying! You can apply one or two coats of color add grit between coats if desired. Then if you want fancy you broadcast multicolored flakes to your likeness(heavy or light). Then apply clear coat or coats. It's all in the eye of the beholder and the depth of there pockets. But one thing I know if your dropping tools and chipping your epoxy. You didn't dig deep enough.
 
This is the coating I may use.....do have the Graco A20 machine.....but will have to wait until this spring to purchase http://www.rhinoliningsindustrial.com/products/polyurethane_and_polyurea/hardline/22/32


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Interesting product, will they sell to you or do they require a licensed installer?

http://www.rhinoliningsindustrial.c..._one_day_polyaspartic_flooring_system/125/126

I tried to review the data sheet for installation requirements but couldn't get it to download. They make excellent (but speedy) products, some of which I have used to coat manholes for corrosion resistance in some really gross areas treatment plants. I didn't realize they made a specific floor coating which is interesting and if anybodys product could handle a high vapor pressure condition I would bet on Rhino.

More research needed for sure.
 
Got my first bid in for the grind and polish, urethane fill on control joints, 50 x 70 hangar, $12500, or 3.50 sq ft. Yikes. You were pretty close Kirby. Dont know how I will get that bill by the Dept of War. Should have a estimate for epoxy today. I was in Lowes last night, down on my hands and knees looking at the polished floor, the manager wanted to know what I was looking for.

jim
 
Saw this stuff all over the place at Barrett Jackson auto auction in Scottsdale az yesterday.
$3.50 sq ft. Is priced right up with epoxy.
Snaps together quick.
 

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Watch out for the sealers too - I have seen one hangar floor that gets sticky if you drip avgas. Do some proper research, the good industrial epoxies generally cannot be purchased at the big box hardware stores because of their hazardous nature - but they are no more toxic than the epoxies used for covering and painting. The overall cost is not in the materials, its in the amount of labor for the surface preparation.

Aerodon
 
As I drove my sled out of the hangar today, with fresh carbides on the skis..... I thought to myself, "thank God I never spent money coating this floor" !
 
Saw this stuff all over the place at Barrett Jackson auto auction in Scottsdale az yesterday.
$3.50 sq ft. Is priced right up with epoxy.
Snaps together quick.

After dragging around a floor jack and looking at rolling around a welding table, and spewing forth acetylene and oxygen, this don't look so good anymore....
Maybe in my display hangar...... yeah.. Someday
 
Got a quote from a local floor guy who does epoxy floors, mostly hospitals and industrial buildings. He starts at 5.50 sq ft for premium epoxy. That's 2 bucks sq ft more than the grind/polish. 2 part water base 8100 Sherwin William s is about 1.00 for materials. Looks like at this point I am going to buy a broom and avgas and wait on the floor. We have another wedding in the hangar in a couple years, I will make the happy couple do the floor

jim
 
Got a quote from a local floor guy who does epoxy floors, mostly hospitals and industrial buildings. He starts at 5.50 sq ft for premium epoxy. That's 2 bucks sq ft more than the grind/polish. 2 part water base 8100 Sherwin William s is about 1.00 for materials. Looks like at this point I am going to buy a broom and avgas and wait on the floor. We have another wedding in the hangar in a couple years, I will make the happy couple do the floor

jim

Im Dragging this one out into the daylight again to kick it around. I took my own advice and bought a new broom. I have a few social functions and a possible wedding this coming summer season, and this summer its my projects im going to work on.

Im going to rehash some of the quotes for:

Epoxy coating both DIY and professional

Grind and polish

What I will call "overlays"


what else is new for floors?

Jim
 
Your comments Mark bring back the nightmare of the beautiful epoxy floor we had in our hanger in CO. Every time you did something in the hanger you were looking at the last mark you made or worrying about the next one you were going to make. Wrecked many a good day. Wouldn't epoxy if it was free. Just built a new one and just polished and sealed the floor. Pleasure to work in again.
 
I did my shop in straight white. It reflects a lot of light and makes the shop always seem bright. Easy to see small stuff dropped also.
DENNY
 
I have painted several hangar floors over the years with epoxy, none ever held up with heavier use, always chipped and did not last. Did the last one with polished concrete, literally bullet proof. Only drawback is if you drop small stuff it is hard to spot it with the polished rocks in the smooth surface concrete. Color depend on the mix you have in your area, unless one pays more for special mix to make it light colored. Have to get down and look horizontally to see small washers, etc. Only thing that stains it is used turbine oil.
John
 
CAT built a 35 million dollar facility in my area a few years back, and I did a lot of the small crane work on it. One of the last things I did was set a big air tank up on a mezzanine. The entire place was 99.9% finished, and they laid plastic sheeting down for me to drive on inside, even though it was just straight in and out, no turning whatsoever. They wanted it perfect, for a place that in a week would have some of the biggest heavy equipment on earth on it! BUT a couple years later they ended up tearing out several sections, and there was some legal action involved with the contractor I understand. No paint or epoxy BTW.
 
20180424_204121 (002).jpgPolished concrete floor, only used turbine oil seems to stain it, nothing else.
John
 

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