Thanx for the pix... it's interesting for me to see the flat backs. I think they actually look very nice on these examples. I'm leaving the flat back and the hopper door in place and I think on a fresh airplane it's gonna look really good.
Looks nice PA-22/20-160, is that a project of yours?
Is this STC from James Flanagan of Independence ,MO ?
In the '60's James Flanagan did maintenance work on my fathers pipeline patrollers. He had a PA18 around he called the Super Bear. I was told he had several STC's. He kind of went off the grid and I'm sure he is long deceased. Just curious.
Here are some new pix of my progress on N9460D.
Floorboards No Stain.jpg
New floorboards built
Floorboards after mahogany stain. My attempt at tight holes around the front seat belt attach fittings didn't work so I decided to generously enlarge them and will put aluminum plates over.
Panel With Holes.jpg
New instrument panel holes cut
RAM mount for iPad
iPad Mount Windshield On.jpg
Test fit of iPad with mock panel and old windshield in place... should work perfectly (borrowed iPad has had a hard life)
With a quick twist of the RAM mount clamp you'll be able to remove everything except for the 2-1/2" black ball plate that will be mounted in a 3-1/8" hole. This way an iPad is in a great spot for use, but can be removed easily to fit the 'vintage' look.
Looking good Martt
Curious: Are you going to leave the two stubs that stick out above the rear seat?
Those were attachments for 1/4 inch rods that extended down to a fixture to "cradle" the hopper.
I would cut those off as they will only mess up your interior panels and get in your way.
I also get rid of most other tabs that held the ag stuff, such as the outside agitator mounts on the left side.
I like the floorboard extension also which are well worth the time!
While this airplane seems to have the full ag set up, I'm guessing it did very little, if any, actual ag work. I found no corrosion, and even the flat top hopper door, which is also being retained to acknowledge this airplane's roots, doesn't have any dents or even scratches in it.
More pix soon as I keep knocking out projects so I can get on to fabric work : )
I removed the hopper door and installed light tinted plexiglass for the dogs that rode back there. Seemed to please them and made finding things in winter easier.
Last Saturday morning I arrived at the local airport as a friend was warming up in his T-Craft... that turned into me getting to make a takeoff and landing in it with him and his little dog that he was gonna take for her first ride. She was in the baggage and then had her front paws on my shoulder right after takeoff. She seemed to enjoy the ride. Made for a really enjoyable 20 minutes of right seat flying on a 20° morning in northern Indiana.
Good thread and great airplane project! I had two 150 Cubs (one an "A" N1189C and one regular N7777D) and flew two others. I prefer the "A". Takes off short, climbs high, goes fast, stalls slow. The rear baggage area and flat floor made for convenient cargo hauling. My worst mistake in aviation was trading it off for a PA-12-180. Oh well, we all stumble at times.
But now that you've been Taylorcraftize'd you may throw rocks at the Cub...not really but they are worth a ride in sometime or owning as a second plane.
I'm as far south in Indiana as you are north Airpigz. Winter really hasn't kicked our butts down here this year. Lucky I guess. I love old T crafts. Mine was also a '40 except a BL65 N29634 just a little newer than the one in your pic. Wish I would have kept it, like many that got away.
N9460D is my first direct exposure to a Super Cub, but I'm really enjoying everything I'm learning about it. It'll be really interesting to look closely at regular PA-18 in the future to compare the 'A' model differences that I know have my head wrapped around.
And I have a bit of T-Craft experience from back in the day, a friend in the 70's and 80's had one with an A75 and a Beech Roby prop... I think they're great airplanes, and sure agree that one would make an excellent second airplane. But I learned at 13 in a 7KCAB Citabria, so tandem seats and a stick are just what feel right to me.
I'm restoring the Super Cub for a brother I have in California, but hopefully I'll be doing a Clipped Wing Cub before too long to keep for myself : )
Last edited by AirPigz; 03-18-2017 at 04:05 PM.
After Monday and Tuesday, even the calendar says WTF !
There's many experienced Cub drivers and builders here but I'm not one...experienced in owning 9 aircraft and flying some others on the job yes, but not a Cub expert.
My -18 "A" was rebuilt by Pete Sanders in Helena, MT. after a wreck and I flew it back to Fairbanks in September 1987. I did the following: Light electricals and battery; bare panel and interior; Atlee Dodge simple baggage; stock 150 engine and 80/40 prop; stock fuel; Hendricks squared tips and ailerons at stock Cub span; flap gap seals over flaps and ailerons; flaps extended into fuselage; VG's on wings; stock Cub wing rigging. Weighed 1087# but could have been lighter with a lighter fabric job and stock wings. Would fly down to 28 GPS under cruise power in level flight. Next time I'd leave the wing stock but did like the aileron seals, and VG's especially on floats.
It was a 4 hour plane plus reserve and had a 150 mile radius plus reserve for reasonable winds at 90 wheels/skis/floats. I guess If were building one today like you I'd set the plans based upon how it was intended to be used most of the time. Nice-to-have mods that rarely get needed can add weight and expense. If I had one goal it'd be light weight first, then whatever else I'd be using 90% of the time. My advice would be keep it simple.
I too had a T-craft BC12-D N43803 as my first airplane, visibility is terrible had to duck down to see out the side windows. Was almost run over by a Lockheed P-3 because of it. I could hear and smell his kerosene when he went by the windshield. Bought it as a wreck for $400 and turned in my first 337 at the FSDO on it while on the way to get my Airframe practical to complete my A&P. Flew it over 200 hours the first year, kept it hangared, all on an income of $25 a week.
#1: Learning in a low power light wing loading plane like J-3's, Champs, Taylorcrafts I believe helps develop the respect for performers...like Supercubs and C-185's. Even limiting the power to say 100 and using no flaps sometimes in a PA-18 can reignite the respect for flying the wing and high density altitude and heavy ops. My Taylorcraft with a skylight and clear Lexan covered seaplane doors has better visibility.
#2: I did several temporary experimental wing mods to my PA-18A. One I liked at low airspeed for better aileron control and maybe lower stall (?) was extending the existing upper factory flap gap seals outboard over the ailerons. They can be duplicated on a roll and then bent back on a brake to match the factory design. I installed them like the flap seals but with 1/8" clearance between the up deflected aileron and the new seal similar to the flapped portions with the flaps retracted. A Maule wing has a similar close fit over their ailerons unlike Piper. I believe it helps seal the aileron/wing gap and improves the flow over the deflected aileron similar to the flaps. I found them effective in slow flight. I'd do it again but it's not an approved mod. I also end-plated the outboard ends of the flaps similar to flat endplates on some Ag planes that extend the form of the airfoil. There was some additional lift to be had as determined by roll away at flap deflection from the only one with them installed. I then put them on both flaps. I'd do it again (inboard and outboard ends) for myself but it's not an approved mod.
#3 My first PA-18 and later PA-12-180 had stock flaps and ailerons with extended Hendricks/D&N tips. Terrible roll control when slow that could have been improved by extending the ailerons to the point where they didn't have to fight the tip vortex. The PA-12 had a Crosswinds cuff and stall fence. I had them removed and preferred the stock airfoil. In the end I like a factory wing with some of the help I've described.
#4 If we were as curious as Fred Weick was (https://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/c...9930083935.pdf) maybe we'd learn something about the airflow circulation about a wing with and without modifications. The example is a Taylorcraft but the process applies to all. His life as an aeronautical engineer described in this book is worth a read (https://www.amazon.com/GROUND-UP-Fre.../dp/0874749506).
Last edited by BC12D-4-85; 03-19-2017 at 12:56 PM.
I have a 1953 PA-18A-135 I found in a barn in Kansas. The aircraft had last been flown in 1978. It has 1200 TTSN. The fabric was unable to pass inspection so the owner took the wings off and brought them to an IA to recover. He then removed all the fabric off the fuselage. When the owner checked with the IA about his wings he discovered the wings had been stolen. He did find a pair of replacement wings in trade-a-plane. Those wings were on a brand new PA-18 being ferried from the Piper factory. The airplane was ground looped resulting in dented leading edge skins on both wings. The owner of the new cub did not want any damage history so those wings were replaced with new ones. The damaged ones were repaired and sold to the owner of the PA-18A. Those original wings have about 10 hour TTSN. They are still in the silver in the areas where the leading edge skins were replaced. As I have another airplane this has been a slow project of "parts collection" to get to the point of re-assembly. The fuselage has been completed with all the Alaskan mods. I went with the L21 glass and got a field approval for x'ing the hopper bay. I did find rust from water entering from the rivnuts and a little in the tail section that I attribute to the use of chemicals in AG operations. The guy I bought it from did not use if for AG but never had the airworthiness certificate change to standard. The aircraft is still listed by the FAA as restricted.