• If You Are Having Trouble Logging In with Your Old Username and Password, Please use this Forgot Your Password link to get re-established.
  • Hey! Be sure to login or register!

Stiff throttle on 185

Tom3holer

Tom3holer

MEMBER
Cape Cod
The throttle on my 185 is quite stiff especially during the first 1/3 of travel making taxi and finessing my landings difficult.

Tried to spray lube in after removing the friction lock and collar. Sealed it with a rag and gave it a good squirt but it didn't help.
Sitting the way it does make it difficult to get fluid to go uphill.

Next step is to remove the lower cowling.

Any thoughts on the best way to lube these cables?

Tnx
 
I use Dri Slide on cables vs spray(s) and to do it properly you have to remove it or I suppose at least raise the tail sufficiently that you have a bit of a down hill path. How many hours, might be time for a fresh cable.
 
Last edited:
remove fork/rod end at engine, hose clamp a larger hose over housing, put rag/bucket inside cabin to catch... blow solvent, then air, then lube to blow all the worn particles out...

at some point you might just buy a new cable, cause life's gonna suck if it breaks....
 
mike mcs repair said:
remove fork/rod end at engine, hose clamp a larger hose over housing, put rag/bucket inside cabin to catch... blow solvent, then air, then lube to blow all the worn particles out...

at some point you might just buy a new cable, cause life's gonna suck if it breaks....
Click to expand...

^^^ That^^^

Don't screw with it, get a new cable installed ASAP.
 
Not sure if this will help, but it will send fluid uphill. Use whatever fluid the experts here recommend.
simple cable luber, available just about everywhere.
image.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    141.3 KB · Views: 157
Because it's the throttle cable if the initial lube job doesn't work and it is an older cable replace it Replace it replace it
 
About 7 or 8 years ago I began to develop a stiff spot in the throttle my Cub, just above idle position, I'd say in the 20-30% range. One day I was out playing in the hills and set up to land on the upslope of a knob that had a patch of snow that had to be cleared before touchdown. I was coming up short on energy and of course when I attempted to goose it, thats when the cable decided to actually stick. I gave it a sharp jab and thankfully it let loose and away I went. As soon as I finished saying my thanks, I got pretty mad at myself because it had been trying to tell me there was a problem brewing for the last few flights.
 
Maybe Disconnect cable at Carb and confirm it is just the cable. I had a Hydraulic restriction in a carb on an O-320 Many years ago. It felt almost exactly like a tight cable. it ended up being a very small Coil spring from a check valve inside carb. the coils had broken up and traveled along with the fuel right into an orifice downstream from accelerator pump. It would take the fuel if you held constant pressure.
Also Long ago in this end of the world a pretty bad accident occurred when a Carb which had a poor prior rebuild ended up binding a shaft inside the bushings. that one also felt like a tight cable.
Just in case you had not already disconnected the carb to isolate the cable.
 
OK,
I seems that the consensus is a new cable.

Where is the best place to order one?
I looked at Aircraft Spruce but they were not listed by aircraft.

Thanks,
Tom
 
I had ACS Products Company(Aircraft Spruce) in Lake Havasu City, Arizona make one for me about 20 years ago for my 1954 180. It is a non vernier, push pull with a turn lock. Still very easy and smooth. Gave the guy dimensions of my old one.
 
new original Cessna had GREASE in it, put new one in, pilot said he had to use both feet on instrument panel to move it :) -20 F

yes Mc Farlands are much better than original design...
 
Tom

i can tell you from personal experience that replacing one is better than having one fail. And cheap too

MTV
 
Just wait until you need a 1961-63 Ford Falcon door handle 20 dollars / add a -C to the part # it's 175.00 Cessna handle. Welcome to the world of Cessna's. Sorry I don't have a substitute for the cable.
 
Got a gook look at them yesterday and the prop and mixture look fairly new and work silky smooth, engine replaced in 09
The throttle, although gets the most use, seems worn with numerous scratches on the knob.
The other two are covered in a colored sheath while the throttles spiral rap is exposed so it may be original.

Anyway its on a two day delivery.

Way off topic but I seem to be on a roll here although this probably should be a new thread.

There was a bit of play in the elevator and my IA asked if I would open up all the areas so we could have a look
Everything was fine from the elevator till we got to the torque tube coming from the yoke to the vertical bellcrank.
There was a slight amount of movement on the yoke torque tube to bellcrank connection and maybe a little on the bellcarnk pivot point.
How do you get at the pivot point area? We couldn't see any access?

It is due foe annual in Sept so will tackle it then.

T
 
Last edited:
Tom3holer said:
Got a gook look at them yesterday and the prop and mixture look fairly new and work silky smooth, engine replaced in 09
The throttle, although gets the most use, seems worn with numerous scratches on the knob.
The other two are covered in a colored sheath while the throttles spiral rap is exposed so it may be original.

Anyway its on a two day delivery.

Way off topic but I seem to be on a roll here although this probably should be a new thread.

There was a bit of play in the elevator and my IA asked if I would open up all the areas so we could have a look
Everything was fine from the elevator till we got to the torque tube coming from the yoke to the vertical bellcrank.
There was a slight amount of movement on the yoke torque tube to bellcrank connection and maybe a little on the bellcarnk pivot point.
How do you get at the pivot point area? We couldn't see any access?

It is due foe annual in Sept so will tackle it then.

T
Click to expand...

Tom-

The link did not show correctly but the most recently superseded PN was only $220, FYI.

Tim
 
Torque tube to elevator? Take the tail cone off and that aft connection is easy easy. If I recall, there is a small bearing on the bellcrank arm that the bolt slides through.

After a couple of years of finding these little things, they will all be done with.
 
Its the torque tube from the yoke to the bellcrank in the center pedestal about even with the gear legs.
The part number is 0510159 which Cessna and Yingling does not seem to list.
 
Don't get hyper about a little play and start buying lots of parts. Some stuff can be repaired easily. It could be just a few thou worn on a bolt and a few thou in the push rod hole. This airplane does have 10,000 hours. There will be some slop somewhere, expect it.
 
Tom3holer said:
Its the torque tube from the yoke to the bellcrank in the center pedestal about even with the gear legs.
The part number is 0510159 which Cessna and Yingling does not seem to list.
Click to expand...

bolt hole worn? Steel?? Braze washers on and use longer bolt?

or is the slop in the bearing?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

CloudDancer
"I'm From the F.A.A., and I'm Here to HELP"
2 3
Replies
74
Views
64K
Jr.CubBuilder
Jr.CubBuilder
Seaworthy
Round engines vs non round engines
Replies
23
Views
9K
N5126H
N5126H
soyAnarchisto
The Rope Trick - Field Repairs 101
2
Replies
39
Views
30K
courierguy
courierguy
sj
The Flight Before Christmas
Replies
1
Views
7K
jjack
jjack
WindOnHisNose
Thoughts from the Shooter at New Holstein...
Replies
24
Views
10K
Shooter
Shooter
Back
Top