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Thread: Wildcat Cub

  1. #241
    Tony flyrite's Avatar
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    AWSOME BUILD , Thanks for the journey
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  2. #242
    aktango58's Avatar
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    Wow! Just wow. She is beautiful.

    Are you going to make a set of skis special for this bird?
    I don't know where you've been me lad, but I see you won first Prize!

  3. #243

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    Ultimately it'll go onto hydraulic wheel skis. I'm not an Airglas LH fan but I may use them since they're local and easy. I may go with Rostis. Better ground clearance and about the same cost last time I checked. Not a priority at the moment.

  4. #244

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    Light it up like Christmas.


    IMG_4334.JPGIMG_4333.JPG


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  5. #245

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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post
    Light it up like Christmas.


    IMG_4334.JPGIMG_4333.JPG


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    That ought to do it...I like ‘em both!
    Remember, These are the Good old Days!

  6. #246
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Yea, strobes are great till you get stuck flying next to someone who has them.

    Glenn
    "Optimism is going after Moby Dick in a rowboat and taking the tartar sauce with you!"

  7. #247

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    Great looking build Stewart, I have enjoyed watching along.
    A little of my opinion on locking nuts and washers. A locknut be it all metal or a "Nylon" when on a stud is only as good as the stud is into the base material. If the stud just releases from what it was in it does not matter what kind of nut was on it.
    Lockwashers, I have always been frustrated by the common split lockwasher, so many times it cuts into either the base material or into the nut itself. PIA when you have to do unexpected restoration work when on what should be a simple 10 min part swap. No one likes being charged an hour when it is expected to be a 10-15 min job.
    Nord-Locks, I have been working with these going on 20 years and I will gladly do so forever. There are times they overgrip and disassembly is challenging but I have not needed to do restoration due to a washer cutting a deep gouge in the material. They sure work better than wave washers that best I can tell just keep the failed nut so it can be reused again.

    Back to lock nuts, I tend to only use them on bolts, not on studs simply due to the fact the stud may come out on it's own. A lockwasher does a great job of reducing that possibility, the nut just rides with the stud.

  8. #248

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    One of the things most guys here won't understand is that in a build like this one there are so many unanticipated conditions to deal with it wears the builder out. How do you make an airbox for a fuel injection system you've never seen and fit it into the nose? How do you mount a filter? How do you make an alternate air source when there's no room for it? I asked several past builders about their alternate air solutions. You know what I got? Nada. Not a single answer or picture. That's been the most disappointing part of the build experience for me. The lack of shared information and experience among the builders of similar airplanes. I was determined to change that a little and share mine so others could get an idea of what's involved. Funny how a very crafty solution to the alternate air door on my plane has drawn so much interest over a nylock nut. A nut on a bolt that serves as a shaft to attach a looped end of a push pull cable to and will never see any tension, compression, or shear. Is it the ideal solution from an engineering standpoint? Probably not, but it's an acceptable solution given the conditions. The chance of me needing alternate air is very small. The consequence of the door opening inadvertently? None. If that nut backs off and falls out? The cable will likely stay right where it is. Much ado about nothing.

    I am very impressed with the Nordlock demonstrator and am hoping to get my hands on some of their new X series cupped washers for my exhaust studs. For airplane applications I can't think of a better product or a better place to use them. So far I can't find the cupped version and will settle on the standard Nordlocks. I'm surprised I haven't heard of these sooner.
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  9. #249

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    There are lots of different personalities on this site, and I suppose every other open forum out there. I truly believe most are sincerely trying to help, and then there are those who just enjoy stirring the pot. Just part of our on line society, for better or worse. My very first post 15 years ago was asking about STC's for putting 18 tail feathers on my J-3. The response was overwhelming- all criticism of my choice to change them, and no answers to my question. I didn't post again for quite some time. I tend to use PM's a lot now.. I'm glad your posting and hope you don't stop.
    Mark
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  10. #250
    jrussl's Avatar
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    Stewart,

    Please keep posting! While I don't chime in much, I am thoroughly enjoying watching your build and all the craftsmanship that you and Mike are putting into your new cub. When I see that this thread has an update, it is one of the first I click on. Thanks for all your efforts to put this info online.

    Planning to spend the month of July +/- in Alaska this year with my SuperCub. Hoping to see your creation firsthand.

    Jeff
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  11. #251

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    Mike has a philosophy that web forums have a high noise to signal ratio. He says when the noise gets deafening, be the signal. Sometimes it's easier said than done.

    Thanks for the encouragement.
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  12. #252
    Tony flyrite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post
    Mike has a philosophy that web forums have a high noise to signal ratio. He says when the noise gets deafening, be the signal. Sometimes it's easier said than done.

    Thanks for the encouragement.
    I like Mike's advice, I , like you find it harder said than done. On the silly issue of the Nylocks......When I see a build that demonstrates the quality yours has, I just take for granted that The guy Who did it knows the "first oracle" stuff like that and figure he has contemplated the consequences as well as he didn't get to the point of completion you did without addressing the basic stuff!
    Again, Great job , Now let the fun begin and bring that thing down south and let's put it to use on some bars.

  13. #253
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyrite View Post
    I like Mike's advice, I , like you find it harder said than done. On the silly issue of the Nylocks.........
    most likely the same FAR's that say you can't have a fuel line near a wire or above it.... which EVERY cub has...

  14. #254

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    Under seat. Another cool exp aircraft product. A smart controller for electric trim joins my high point brake bleeders and fluid reservoirs. IMG_4356.JPG


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  15. #255
    Gordon Misch's Avatar
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    Are you using trim tabs rather than moving horiz stabilizer? If a moving stabilizer, what are you using for servo? The web page says 1 amp max output. Maybe that's enough to operate a jackscrew motor???
    Gordon

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  16. #256

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    The HD model is rated to 10a and has dual inputs/outputs so can be wired for more. No jackscrew in my plane, just a linear actuator, and the current draw and voltage drop were concerns. TCW says it won’t be a problem and provided instructions for my application.
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  17. #257
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post
    No jackscrew in my plane, just a linear actuator.
    stewart, Does that linear actuator have a fail safe mode? Enough so that it can not move unless power is applied to it? I'm reminded of the trim screwjack failure of the Alaska DC-9 when it turned into an ocean dart in California.
    N1PA

  18. #258

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    I remember the accident. I knew someone on that plane. I think the lesson learned from the investigation is that all of our full trimming horizontals require inspection and proper maintenance. I was taught a long time ago to grab the horizontal's leading edge and give it a stout up and down test during pre-flight. Any play or movement is cause for staying on the ground. I'll continue that habit with my new plane. My bigger failure concern is in the little rocker switch on the stick that controls the trim. It's easy to imagine that switch getting stuck. The 3 second timer in the Safety trim along with the reversing feature manages that concern.

    http://www.supercub.org/forum/showth...Trim-Explained

    http://lessonslearned.faa.gov/ll_mai...LTypeID=2#null
    Last edited by stewartb; 03-18-2018 at 07:42 AM.
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  19. #259
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Thanks, This https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEcG3dkZyTg explained it. You do have a jackscrew. That is as fail safe as possible.
    N1PA

  20. #260
    Gordon Misch's Avatar
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    Stewart, looks like a good arrangement.

    I have two questions -
    I don't see the model # from your photo listed on the Safety-Trim website. Do you have a link?
    Would you mind sharing what linear actuator you're using?
    Gordon

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  21. #261

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    Safety Trim- http://www.tcwtech.com/Installation%...12v-2sp-HD.pdf

    AEI actuator- http://64.85.11.101/product/6112ch/

    For whatever reason the AEI website is down right now. This actuator is rated at 1000#. There’s a post with the data sheet in the electric actuators thread I linked above in post #258.

  22. #262
    Gordon Misch's Avatar
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    Yes, I saw the data sheet, but it's for a variety of models.

    Yikes, 12" travel, and 1000 lb force? I'd be interested to know why those parameters were selected. Total jackscrew travel on my 12 is about 3 1/8". And at 1000 lb, if all the fail-safe stuff fails, something is liable to break rather than just trip a breaker. Do you happen to know the answers to those questions / concerns?

    Another question, what are you using for position indication?

    Thanks!
    Gordon

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  23. #263

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    Wildcat Cub

    I don’t know what the actual stroke is. It has limit switches but I have no idea what they’re set to. I’ll find out soon. Jeff Lefore’s yellow and black Rev 2 seems to work pretty well.

    The actuator has a string potentiometer mounted to it and it sends a position signal to the G3X. We used a similar string pot at the flap bell crank so actual flap deployment (including blow back) will also be displayed on the G3X.

    IMG_0001.JPG
    Last edited by stewartb; 03-18-2018 at 11:08 AM.

  24. #264
    Gordon Misch's Avatar
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    Got it, thank you.
    Gordon

    N4328M KTDO
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  25. #265

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    CH6106 is what's in the plane. 6" total stroke.

    IMG_4358.JPG


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  26. #266

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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post
    Mike has a philosophy that web forums have a high noise to signal ratio. He says when the noise gets deafening, be the signal. Sometimes it's easier said than done.

    Thanks for the encouragement.
    Lets all chill out and have a new discussion on DOWN WIND TURNS.... great looking plane Stewart, vans airforce is a pretty good source for E-AB ideas....I’m having fun building a RV7
    agpilot
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  27. #267

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    I like Cubs because they're simple airplanes.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  28. #268
    Cub junkie's Avatar
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    I thought a full electrical system was two magneto P leads. Looks like I was mistaken. Nice work.

  29. #269

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    A G3X Touch looks elegant and simple from the front but there's an awful lot going on behind it. And a crapload of breakers and switches to support it. Not exactly what I had imagined. Not complaining, just sharing.
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  30. #270
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    Thank you for the linear actuator vendor & part # Stewart. I wonder why Backcountry switched from using Firgelli Automation linear actuators to DCAcuators? Big difference in both actuator total weight and force.
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  31. #271

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    Can't say. AK Tahoe's old plane had a smaller actuator so the change happened between his and mine, and no Rev 2s were flying during that time.

  32. #272
    Gordon Misch's Avatar
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    I've noticed this elsewhere, and I'll make a guess - - The higher force actuators have a slower linear speed. That might be more desirable for trimming. My guess is that in this application operating speed is governing, rather than operating force. As long as operating force is adequate, of course. And I have no idea what the required operating force might be.
    Gordon

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  33. #273

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    My Safety Trim has a panel switch to select high or low speed for the trim servo. They also offer an airspeed switch but I didn't choose to use that option. 2 speed electric trim is common.

  34. #274
    RVBottomly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post
    I like Cubs because they're simple airplanes.
    Reminds me of back in the 1980s a flight instructor at Gallatin Field told me he'd give me a nice looking red International Harvester pickup if I'd tow it away. Mice had eaten the electrical system. It had something like 60k miles and a big 308 engine.

    I took him up on the offer, took my free truck home, and wired it up with a spool of 12 gauge auto wire. No harness, just direct wiring with in-line fuses.

    I thought it would be a simple job of just powering the starter, coil, lights/signals, and heater fan. There wasn't anything else to run. But it still ended up like a rat's nest of wires. I identified the wires with plastic tape and permanent marker, which of course faded after a year or so. But that old truck lasted me years until the camshaft broke.

    But, Stewart, you've completely derailed and inspired me with what you are doing. Now, instead of holding my fingers to the grindstone for profiling tubes, I'm starting to look at Garmins etc. At first I was thinking of adding a G5 and keeping everything else basic. Now I'm sketching out autopilot servos and G3x touch. I mean, "why not?"

    Of course, it helps that my wife is asking if we can make routine trips to Seattle as well as the coast. Then there's talk about trips to Alaska to see her daughter. She says, "you'll have instruments, right?"

    Who am I to argue?

    Between watching your beauty and CharlieN's ideas, I'm afraid I'm wandering down that path of a permanent state of "something even better."

    Really, though, I very much appreciate seeing what you are doing.
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  35. #275

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    Quote Originally Posted by RVBottomly View Post

    Between watching your beauty and CharlieN's ideas, I'm afraid I'm wandering down that path of a permanent state of "something even better."
    You only want to build it once, and live with it forever.

    Even if not "everything" goes in during the build, it is nice to have considered it and make provisions for changes in the future. Granted we can not plan for "everything" since the world will always offer more in the future.
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  36. #276

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    Mike had a desire to try his hand at anodizing. Holy crap, what a nice result! My custom milled brake reservoirs are now custom blue. Very cool.



    30688823_1614136665366520_792340776561410048_n.jpg

  37. #277
    RVBottomly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stewartb View Post
    Mike had a desire to try his hand at anodizing. Holy crap, what a nice result! My custom milled brake reservoirs are now custom blue. Very cool.



    30688823_1614136665366520_792340776561410048_n.jpg
    Very cool indeed!

    Funny how just earlier this week I was reading up on anodizing and looking for a reason to try it out.
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  38. #278

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    Mike sent me youtube links about anodizing. I’m a carpenter. What do I know about anodizing? Here’s my fav video.

    https://binged.it/2HuWhFY
    Last edited by stewartb; 04-13-2018 at 09:53 AM.
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  39. #279

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    Wildcat Cub

    Superior's IO-400 crank. Beefy! With 100ci cylinders maybe that's a good thing. There's no replacement for displacement!

    IMG_4400.JPG


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  40. #280

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    Wildcat Cub

    Prop's on. Progressing nicely. This prop sure has some twist in the cowl inlet area. No wonder Whirl Wind has the reputation for better cooling.

    IMG_4412.JPG

    IMG_4415.JPG

    IMG_4416.JPG


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