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Thread: Hanger door

  1. #1
    C-FIJK's Avatar
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    Hanger door

    I am in in process of build a new hanger and bi fold door. How much height will I need to clear It on straight floats?


    Thanks
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    Gerry Marcil

    Every day spent flying is a great day !

  2. #2

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    More than what you have in your pictures. A Lot More.

  3. #3
    C-FIJK's Avatar
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    Right now I have 10 feet from the ground to the bottom of the door. I can Gain more come spring, then we can finish landscaping
    Gerry Marcil

    Every day spent flying is a great day !

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    Weld the 2 halfs together and make a Hydro Swing type door. More clearance and a sun/rain shade in the summer

    Glenn

  5. #5
    Flying Bee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C-FIJK View Post
    I am in in process of build a new hanger and bi fold door. How much height will I need to clear It on straight floats?


    Thanks
    Nice looking door frame! Can you share some details on it like size, tubing size, wall thickness?
    Craig

  6. #6
    mvivion's Avatar
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    It also depends on how high your trailer is for handling the plane on floats.

    That isn't high enough, by a long shot, I'm betting.

    MTV

  7. #7
    C-FIJK's Avatar
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    I just called the fellow who lives next door to where my cub is stored. And he said the door is 11 feet. I can Gain another foot come spring time when we level the floor
    Quote Originally Posted by mvivion View Post
    It also depends on how high your trailer is for handling the plane on floats.

    That isn't high enough, by a long shot, I'm betting.

    MTV
    Gerry Marcil

    Every day spent flying is a great day !

  8. #8
    C-FIJK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flying Bee View Post
    Nice looking door frame! Can you share some details on it like size, tubing size, wall thickness?
    The door is built out of 2x2 by 1/8 wall square tubing. The door was easy to build took me 14 hrs. Getting it to work that took me a week. Now it works perfect
    Gerry Marcil

    Every day spent flying is a great day !

  9. #9
    cubdriver2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cubdriver2 View Post
    Weld the 2 halfs together and make a Hydro Swing type door. More clearance and a sun/rain shade in the summer

    Glenn
    http://hydroswing-hydraulic-doors.co...n-hangar-doors

  10. #10

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    Here's my PA-12 on a very low trailer. It clears the 10-foot door header, but just barely.

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  11. #11
    C-FIJK's Avatar
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    Thanks for the pics my cub will be on a rail system and even lower yet.!!!! All should be good

    Quote Originally Posted by NunavutPA-12 View Post
    Here's my PA-12 on a very low trailer. It clears the 10-foot door header, but just barely.

    Gerry Marcil

    Every day spent flying is a great day !

  12. #12
    C-FIJK's Avatar
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    I see you got your floats I hope there working well for you
    Gerry Marcil

    Every day spent flying is a great day !

  13. #13

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    Actually, those are my leaky old floats. The 'plane is now on Clamar 2200's.

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    algonquin's Avatar
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    Could you post a few pic's of the doors construction and lift system thanks.

  15. #15
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    Trying not to hijack the thread, but anyone about to build a new hangar or replace an old door will certainly look at this thread.

    Glen, You show a really nice door and the type I had initially planned for my new hangar. After some research I learned that type of door places a tremendous load on the building.

    This link shows the best design I've been able to find, others build something similar, but end result is no additional load on the building that may already have wind and snow loading. There are a few other benefits that anyone interested can research on the site. The lock up is also super and handled with no additional moving parts, I think you'll be impressed. A dear friend has this type and it's really awesome. http://www.hpdoors.com
    Thanks Cub Special Ed thanked for this post

  16. #16
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Thats impressive. Thanks for posting Billy.

    Bill
    Very Blessed.

  17. #17
    algonquin's Avatar
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    Just called th folks at hp doors, 14x 48 door is 10300.00 plus shipping. Very nice people to talk to, told me a 43x13 was the same price so big is better in this case.

  18. #18
    Patrol Guy's Avatar
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    that Higher Power door is the best one out there.

  19. #19
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    That does look like a really nice door but I must add - I got a quote this summer for the same 48x14 sized door from Hi-Fold for around 4400 dollars. That is a pretty big difference.

    Bill
    Very Blessed.
    Likes MarkS liked this post

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Rusk View Post
    That does look like a really nice door but I must add - I got a quote this summer for the same 48x14 sized door from Hi-Fold for around 4400 dollars. That is a pretty big difference.

    Bill
    Hi-Fold makes both hydraulic doors and bi-fold, which were you quoted? $4400 sounds pretty low for either but especially so if it was a hydraulic lift.

    Kent

  21. #21
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Bi-fold

    Bill
    Very Blessed.

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    http://www.powerliftdoors.com/main/p...ricks-welding/

    Just installed one of these, like it alot. Check for your closest dealer.

  23. #23

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    Hard to beat no loss of headroom (12' ceiling, you can get something 12' high in there) and no intrusion into the building, and a absolute minimum of parts, of a single part hyd. lifted door. I love my two hydro swings but all the other designs look good also, more then one way to skin a cat. I have two large 5' x5' south facing real glass windows in my 19' wide shop hydro, too much free winter heat from the solar gain and too good a view to pass up. The single piece doors seem easier to mod this way.

  24. #24
    C-FIJK's Avatar
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    I have the door all set and adjusted now it works very well. ,but yes this type you loose head room!!
    Gerry Marcil

    Every day spent flying is a great day !

  25. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bighorn View Post
    http://www.powerliftdoors.com/main/p...ricks-welding/

    Just installed one of these, like it alot. Check for your closest dealer.
    I just had one installed yesterday also, mine came out of the Wray, CO location. Looks very nice now that the building guys have it covered. I actually haven't seen it operate yet as work kept me away from the building site for about 5 minutes too long and I missed the test when they were operating with a generator��

  26. #26
    Barnstormer's Avatar
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    I've got three higher power doors on my hangar, 45', 55', and 75'. Totally self supporting as in zero load on the hangar. Super pleased. When I build my hangar in Alaska next year it will get a higher power door. They are the best hands down. FYI they can build them up to 150'.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  27. #27
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    Have a 16X60 HP door. Zero stress on the building as all force is on the floor. Set it up so closing time is the same as opening time. About 45 seconds. Only complaint is door operates VERY slowly in cold temps. Hangar is unheated and is in WI. -8F today. Heating the hydraulic tank may help. Also the external truss may be considered unsightly by some. It also requires painting thus some maintenance. I would probably go with an aluminum Wilson electric bi-fold if I had to do it over. However, you do lose a foot of clearance with the bi-fold.
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  28. #28

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    Or else replace your summer weight hyd. oil with a winter weight oil, (too much hassle), or maybe some thermostatically controlled heat tape with insulation over it to keep that res tank. cozy. The little pumps for sure slow down when the oil thickens. My HydroSwing noticeably slows when the hangar drops to mid 40's (coldest it ever gets in there) but not enough to be a issue. At 8 below, I'd be heating that reservoir tank. Probably 20 to 30 watts would do it, with some of that foil bubble wrap insulation

  29. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by slackass View Post
    Have a 16X60 HP door. Zero stress on the building as all force is on the floor. Set it up so closing time is the same as opening time. About 45 seconds. Only complaint is door operates VERY slowly in cold temps. Hangar is unheated and is in WI. -8F today. Heating the hydraulic tank may help. Also the external truss may be considered unsightly by some. It also requires painting thus some maintenance. I would probably go with an aluminum Wilson electric bi-fold if I had to do it over. However, you do lose a foot of clearance with the bi-fold.
    I had the same issue with winter door speed here in northeast Minnesota (-30F as I write). At work, the loading dock levelers didn't work well in the cold. Checked manufacturer's fluid recommendations (5606 aircraft hyd oil), did followup research on hydraulic, ATF, snow plow, and 5606 hyd oil. Big difference in cold weather viscosities, now have 5606 in my door and life is good!
    Practicing open cockpit extremism

  30. #30

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    If you are looking for track system I have two

  31. #31
    C-FIJK's Avatar
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    Yes I am in need of 75 feet of track but I think we are to far apart in order to pick it up or ship it!!
    Quote Originally Posted by Yarddart View Post
    If you are looking for track system I have two
    Gerry Marcil

    Every day spent flying is a great day !

  32. #32
    Todd long's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slackass View Post
    Have a 16X60 HP door. Zero stress on the building as all force is on the floor. Set it up so closing time is the same as opening time. About 45 seconds. Only complaint is door operates VERY slowly in cold temps. Hangar is unheated and is in WI. -8F today. Heating the hydraulic tank may help. Also the external truss may be considered unsightly by some. It also requires painting thus some maintenance. I would probably go with an aluminum Wilson electric bi-fold if I had to do it over. However, you do lose a foot of clearance with the bi-fold.
    how much headroom do you lose with this door? My hangar s 11'9" inside. But can't get the Super Cub on amphibious thru the door. Old bifold design.
    Thanks tbone thanked for this post

  33. #33
    slackass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd long View Post
    how much headroom do you lose with this door? My hangar s 11'9" inside. But can't get the Super Cub on amphibious thru the door. Old bifold design.
    My opening for the door is 16' 6". Clearance with the door open is 16'. So a loss of 6" with the higher power door. I lose 1foot with a bi-fold on the other hangar. 12' opening for a clearance of 11'.

  34. #34

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    Only 6" loss, that's pretty minimal, impressive.

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    Quote Originally Posted by courierguy View Post
    Only 6" loss, that's pretty minimal, impressive.
    How much side clearance is lost (each side), assuming a retrofit condition?
    Remember, These are the Good old Days!

  36. #36
    slackass's Avatar
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    There is no loss to side clearance since the supports are inside the door. You can give higher power doors your rough opening dimensions and they will tell you your clearances. They are very helpful.

  37. #37

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    I have noticed some bifold doors have a hinged bar with a roller on each side. The bar drops as the door opens and is restrained by a chain. This supports the mid-hinge of the door and allows the door bottom to be pulled up higher, what looks to be an extra foot or so. Can this be done as an add on to get some extra height in the opening of an existing door? This video was the only picture I could find and it doesn't really show how the lift goes higher with the arms. jrh
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S7Oprf6YJ18
    You can't get there from here. You have to go over yonder and start from there.

  38. #38
    aktango58's Avatar
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    Consider making some type of securing method to keep the plane from tipping while on the rail system.

    They can go nose up, or down if you put a block under the step, which changes the tail elevation
    I don't know where you've been me lad, but I see you won first Prize!

  39. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by N86250 View Post
    I have noticed some bifold doors have a hinged bar with a roller on each side. The bar drops as the door opens and is restrained by a chain. This supports the mid-hinge of the door and allows the door bottom to be pulled up higher, what looks to be an extra foot or so. Can this be done as an add on to get some extra height in the opening of an existing door? This video was the only picture I could find and it doesn't really show how the lift goes higher with the arms. jrh
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S7Oprf6YJ18
    Hi-fold Doors builds what you are talking about. I have installed one for myself and helped on a couple others. Nice door and would do it again.

    Doug

  40. #40
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slackass View Post
    My opening for the door is 16' 6". Clearance with the door open is 16'. So a loss of 6" with the higher power door. I lose 1foot with a bi-fold on the other hangar. 12' opening for a clearance of 11'.
    I have used several Wilson doors over the years. As I recall they recommend a minimum of 3 -4 feet between the top and bottom of the door when it is open to prevent it from collapsing over on itself. Consider that when that base of the triangle gets too small it will not have enough strength to overcome gravity which is trying to collapse the door. This is why a bifold door needs to be installed on the outside of the building in order to conserve the full opening height.

    That brace which N86250's video shows will allow the door to be opened further without risk of collapsing since the arm is supporting the outer heavy edge of the door.

    The door in slackass's picture looks to be the best for maximum opening height without mounting outside the building.
    N1PA

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