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Thread: Building a Scratch Built Cub

  1. #81

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    These can be verified directly with the builders so no smoke and mirrors. Factual information and real numbers will be used to verify everything on this forum page. Many get aggressive when actual real life comparisons are made and would rather post ambiguous information that never lead to a conclusion. Viking believe that comparative, real world data is useful.


    • Patrick's Corvair to Viking 130 change = +/- 2lb weight change
    • Richard Jones Corvair to Viking 130 change = +/- 2lb weight change
    • Roger Grable's Corvair to Viking 130 change = +/- 2lb weight change
    • Jon's O-200 to Viking 130 change = +/- 2lb weight change


    Conclusion:

    • The Viking 130, installed and flying has the same weight as the Corvair and the O-200
    • The Viking has 30 more hp than the 100 hp engines it replaced
    • The Viking has over 250 lb of additional thrust, above any of the replaced engines.
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  2. #82

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    https://www.ebay.com/itm/232674701340 Just a thought is all, absolutley no more is meant.

  3. #83

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    Quote Originally Posted by tempdoug View Post
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/232674701340 Just a thought is all, absolutley no more is meant.
    That engine is listed under outboard engines, no reserve. Someone is asleep at the controls as they list the price on their website at $9995

  4. #84

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    Quote Originally Posted by NoCub View Post
    That engine is listed under outboard engines, no reserve. Someone is asleep at the controls as they list the price on their website at $9995
    Maybe, maybe not. Price in the end will tell the game.

  5. #85

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    Man congrats on the fine craftsmanship. I just decided to start a scratch build myself. I have the northland plans and am currently going through those . I have a couple of questions for ya . What and where did you get your plans? And whatís your material cost so far , just the fuse and wings ? Thanks I canít wait to see your finished project.

  6. #86
    stknrddr's Avatar
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    Thank you DekotaE for your positive comments,

    Regarding my project plans and costs, I canoffer the following:

    PLANS
    Northland plans - These are basically the traditionalSuper Cub prints with some additional prints included, as well as having some of the prints redrawn. Wespecifically used the fuselage drawing from Northland to weld it up.

    Wag Aero Sport Trainer(Cubby) plans - Wereference these plans as they are easy to follow to quickly understand theassemblies of parts, and they provide a great overall understanding of theproject. Caution: always reference the Super Cub or Northland plans for the correct materialtype and thickness, as the Cubby plans are for the lighter J-3 style Cubs, and different design features.

    Supercubproject.com - Thanks goes to Christian Sturm for placing theoriginal Super cub prints on his web site. I reference these plans to view theprints while in the shop with my tablet. Christian also has some great photosof his project for reference as well.

    Photos - I take lots of photos of every Super Cub I find,covered and uncovered. This is so helpful when building from scratch. I appreciate all of the people who have kindly allowed me to take photos.

    Cost to Date: My cost to date is around $3500. This includes Matco Wheels and Brakes and wing spar stock. Basically, the only pre-made parts that we bought are the four wing attachment fittings at the top of the fuselage, the two wheel axles, and a few pulleys.

    I am trying to keep this plane modest in weight and cost, where my plan includes finding an O-200 or a C-90 to power it.

    I hope this information helps.
    john

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  7. #87

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    This will be super helpful to me . Right now Iím trying to go through all the drawings and filter out what I need and what I donít. Iím going to put a mock up together in solidworks first , because Iím planning a few modifications I think it will be easier than trial and error. Iím 6,7 220 so I want a little more leg room , I want easy access to the baggage. Just some small stuff like that . I also will be doing a Fowler type flap and some leading edge slats on my wings . As a machinist and a journeyman fabricator you guys did top notch work on your builds !

  8. #88

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    for a 0-200,A tip over cessna 150 about 70 miles from me just sold for $300 complete.
    Last edited by tempdoug; 03-23-2018 at 06:06 PM.

  9. #89
    stknrddr's Avatar
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    Scratch Building Update - Trim Tab and Baggage Compartment Door Opening Frame

    IMG_4107.jpg

    I elected to fabricate a traditional trim tab on the left elevator.
    For the lack of a better term, two little spars are needed at the hinge
    locations for the trim tab. I used 0.025" thick 4130 sheet to form
    the spars. One of the elevator ribs needs to be cut away
    (at the center of the trim tab) to slide the spars into place.
    Two short ribs are added at each end of the trim tab, and
    everything is welded in place.

    IMG_4110.jpg

    Two additional ribs are added to the trim tab to
    stiffen it up. If a person wants to simply attach a
    piano hinge to the upper surfaces of the tab and
    the elevator, now is the time to it before the tab
    is cut away from the elevator. I will likely attach
    the hinges to the inside surfaces of the tab and
    elevator spars to hide the hinge better. After
    cutting the tab away from the elevator,
    final welding can be done, and the horn to actuate
    the tab can be welded in place.



    Hinge Frame.jpg

    A small baggage door will be included on the right
    side of the fuselage. Here, I formed up the bottom
    edge of the door opening frame using 0.025: thick
    4130 sheet steel. I rolled the edge over and bent a
    little flange on it to stiffen it up, then cut, fit and
    welded it into place in line with the stringer.
    An aluminum piano hinge will be riveted to this piece
    and attached to the baggage door.

    Magnets.jpg

    Small pieces of "C" channel were fabricated, then cut and fit
    into place as shown. Prior to welding, I primed the
    upper longeron and the inside of the upper baggage door
    frame member. 90 degree magnets were used to square
    up the parts prior to welding.

    IMG_4114.jpg

    The final door opening size is 10" high by 16" wide.
    This door frame system appears to be plenty stiff
    enough to maintain its shape after the fabric shrinks
    around it.

    I think my next step is attaching the stringers and
    fabricating a control lever to operate the trim tab.

    Thank you for looking.

    John
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  10. #90

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    Know of a O-200 fr sale. Was on a flying eurocope that hanger fell on. Think it ran good.
    Thanks stknrddr thanked for this post

  11. #91
    stknrddr's Avatar
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    Know of a O-200 fr sale. Was on a flying eurocope that hanger fell on. Think it ran good.
    Thanks Don, I'm interested in learning more. Please private message me if you would like to.
    john

  12. #92

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    Been gone acouple days. PM'd ya.

  13. #93
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    I also know of an O-200 for sale. came out of a Cessna 150. Engine is located in central MN.
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  14. #94
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    Wing Parts Building Update

    The following is a quick update regarding some wing parts

    IMG_4358.jpg

    Here's a photo of some wing parts bought from Jay at Javron
    in Brainard, Minnesota. These are strut attachment brackets
    and all of the drag and anti-drag wires located inside the wings.
    Very nice parts.

    IMG_4360.jpg

    We are fabricating drag struts which are the compression struts
    located inside the wings running from spar to spar. These are being
    made from 3/4" x 3/4" x 0.049" wall 6061T6 square tubing,
    with round corners. Plugs are required to set inside of each end of the
    struts and can be seen in the photo. Upon final assembly,
    the plugs will set flush to the ends of the tubes.
    The plugs are made from 6061T6 aluminum, machined to shape,
    then drilled and tapped to receive a 5/16-24 AN bolt.
    Prior to through drilling across the assembly, the "foot" needs to
    be fabricated for each end as well.

    stock in vertical mill.jpg

    Fabricating the plugs - Here, a short length of aluminum
    stock is clamped in a vertical mill, to machine the stock
    square and to chamfer the four edges to fit inside the tubing.
    After milling six lengths of the material, the bars are cut into
    1-1/8" pieces.

    drilling and tapping.jpg

    The short pieces are then drilled and tapped.

    IMG_4355.jpg

    Our friend and fellow airplane builder (Lee)
    accommodated us by letting us use his machine shop.
    Lee set up the machines, for me to feed the parts
    in and out, and run the mill. It was a real treat to
    fabricate parts using a milling machine.

    IMG_4356.jpg

    Here's our stock of plugs. More than enough
    for two sets of wings. An additional hole will
    be drilled at a later time across each plug to
    hold the plug into place in the compression tubes.

    Thanks for looking,
    John
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  15. #95
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    Scratch Building Update - Wing Drag Strut Fabrication

    IMG_4585.jpg
    I'm in the process of making the Drag Struts (cross members)
    inside the wing. These are the struts that span from spar to spar.
    The photo above is a finished strut.

    IMG_4561.jpg
    The tube is 6061-T6 3/4"x 3/4" 0.049" wall with round corners.
    The threaded aluminum plugs (previous post) are tapped
    into each end of the tube after the tube is cut to length.

    IMG_4572.jpg
    A "foot" is required on each end of the tubes. These are
    made from 5052 aluminum, 0.050" thick.

    IMG_4386.jpg
    Paper Templates were made for each "foot", then plywood
    templates were made. Appropriate size holes were routered
    into the plywood using the form shown.

    IMG_4391.jpg
    Double sided tape was used to temporarily hold the plywood
    template to the aluminum sheet.

    IMG_4415.jpg
    The aluminum is routered as shown, creating the "foot Blank",
    which will later be formed to shape.
    Notice, I added a smooth surface to the router table to
    limit scratching. Simply find the proper speed and feed
    when routering the aluminum to get a nice finished edge.
    Peel the aluminum from the plywood, then break and
    sand the edges as desired.

    IMG_4567.jpg
    A fixture was made to set up the assembly. Hole locations
    were determined, then drilled by placing the entire fixture
    on a drill press. Then AN3-11A bolts are installed.

    IMG_4566.jpg
    Notice the small steel shim located at the end of the
    tube which simulates the tabs for the diagonal wires
    inside the wing.

    IMG_4582.jpg
    Finished Drag Strut.

    Thank you for looking,
    John
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  16. #96
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    Looks pretty nice John! Carry on!!
    Joe

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  17. #97
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stknrddr View Post
    Scratch Building Update - Wing Drag Strut Fabrication

    IMG_4585.jpg
    I'm in the process of making the Drag Struts (cross members)
    inside the wing. These are the struts that span from spar to spar.
    The photo above is a finished strut.

    IMG_4567.jpg

    IMG_4582.jpg
    Finished Drag Strut.

    Thank you for looking,
    John
    John,
    You are doing a wonderful job of building your plane. Your workmanship and attention to detail is to be commended. These parts are called compression ribs not drag struts. They are used in compression holding the spars apart. The cross wires hold the spars together and are called drag and anti drag wires depending on the direction that their load is applied.


    Carry on I'm enjoying following your progress.
    N1PA
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  18. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    John,
    You are doing a wonderful job of building your plane. Your workmanship and attention to detail is to be commended. These parts are called compression ribs not drag struts.
    That's what I would call them, too. But Piper called them "Strut Assemblies--Drag" in drawing 14222 and elsewhere.

    Vic
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