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Thread: Super Cub 91246 Rebuild

  1. #81
    www.SkupTech.com mike mcs repair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    /
    I have installed all the panels, taken a scribe and scribed a line parallel to the floorboards and then sheared them off there. I then intend to install an angle on the bottom of the panel that will also fasten to the floorboard. ..
    bend angle (up) into aluminum floor board edge is simplest and lightest, and keeps the crud contained...

  2. #82

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    In a pinch a strip of adhesive backed foam tape works wonders, I put a dam all the way across in front of the front seat base and it stops the crud migration.
    Last edited by OLDCROWE; 08-08-2017 at 06:00 AM.
    Remember, These are the Good old Days!
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  3. #83
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    I have two issues to contend with. One is the trim indicator wire breaking which is pretty common and the fact that the wire routing is not in line with the indicator cutout so it tends to wallow out the indicator groove. The other issue was routing the indicator wire around the extended baggage. My Dad used an old 1/16" trim cable in his Clipper and that was my thinking along with some nylon tubing to route it through. Then I read Clyde Smith's article in the Cub Clues about the same and reminded me of the sheath that the Pacer/Tri-Pacer trim indicator wire runs through. I aligned a clamp to hold the indicator sheath so that it was in line with the indicator groove and used the indicator from Dakota Cub that used a removable screw instead of a fixed rivet.


    I routed the nylon sheath along the trim cable and exited through my ELT/GPS ground plane with another clamp.


    I crimped electrical connectors onto the cable instead of wrapping the wire around itself like Piper did.


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  4. #84
    RaisedByWolves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    I have two issues to contend with. One is the trim indicator wire breaking which is pretty common and the fact that the wire routing is not in line with the indicator cutout so it tends to wallow out the indicator groove. The other issue was routing the indicator wire around the extended baggage. My Dad used an old 1/16" trim cable in his Clipper and that was my thinking along with some nylon tubing to route it through. Then I read Clyde Smith's article in the Cub Clues about the same and reminded me of the sheath that the Pacer/Tri-Pacer trim indicator wire runs through. I aligned a clamp to hold the indicator sheath so that it was in line with the indicator groove and used the indicator from Dakota Cub that used a removable screw instead of a fixed rivet.


    I routed the nylon sheath along the trim cable and exited through my ELT/GPS ground plane with another clamp.


    I crimped electrical connectors onto the cable instead of wrapping the wire around itself like Piper did.


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    I cut a piece of tubing and used the same phenolic type gromet that piper used and put it about the rear trim pulleys, basically copying the factory pulleys and indicator set up
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  5. #85
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaisedByWolves View Post
    I cut a piece of tubing and used the same phenolic type gromet that piper used and put it about the rear trim pulleys, basically copying the factory pulleys and indicator set up
    I probably should have just used the stock parts at the next station but the trim indicator wire angle bugged me. I hate fixing those when they break and think the 1/16" cable will eliminate that problem. Hopefully I didn't create another problem I can't foresee.
    Steve Pierce

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  6. #86
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    I don't like the original throttle panel because like a lot of the sheet metal on a Super Cub, Piper used 3003 aluminum which forms very easily but dents and tears easy as well. I like to make them out of 2024-T3 with some reinforcement where they tend to bend and crack at the corners of the cutouts for the throttle handles. I think installing the panel between the longeron and window frame is part of the problem as well.

    Since it is 56" long it has to be cut and bent with the grain but being .020" I have not had an issue with cracking using a decent set back on the brake.

    Nice to have the drawing because a lot of these panels are in rough shape. Did find a few minor discrepancies.

    I had a little help as well. She thinks the pencil is a toy especially when being used.


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  7. #87
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Cut out and marked, in the brake which takes a little fore thought to get the sequence correct so all bend are accessible.




    Checking fit.


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  8. #88
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    I use to bend the little tab that stiffens the throttle cut out but like making a longer doubler to reinforce the radius where the crack. I made a U channel and flush riveted it in.





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  9. #89
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Fit good and slides in and out without bending. Helped that I rand a blade in the groove between the longeron and bottom of window frame to clean it out for easier installation.




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  10. #90

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    Sweet, and it doesn't look like a plumber did it.
    Remember, These are the Good old Days!

  11. #91
    nightflyer's Avatar
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    Looks great!

  12. #92
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    I spent the last couple of days in Graham helping Steve work on my airplane. We mounted the engine with the thrust line mod, cut and fit the bottom cowl rails, cut a hole for the Sutton exhaust, and fit the new nose bowl. We decided that a removable exhaust pipe would allow for a smaller hole on the bottom cowl so he cut off the old pipe. We used some of the old cowl pieces for the fittment but those will be replaced with new ones. Once all of the cowl pieces are finished then everything will come off for paint.
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  13. #93
    Bearhawk Builder's Avatar
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    Looks great, I'm at about the same place. What do you do for the removable exhaust pipe, expand and slip over?

  14. #94
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nightflyer View Post
    .
    Why is the nose bowl slanted back at the bottom and the trailing edge not parallel to the firewall?
    N1PA

  15. #95
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    Why is the nose bowl slanted back at the bottom and the trailing edge not parallel to the firewall?
    It is an optical illusion in the picture.
    Steve Pierce

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  16. #96
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bearhawk Builder View Post
    Looks great, I'm at about the same place. What do you do for the removable exhaust pipe, expand and slip over?
    It is an option on the Sutton Exhaust. I am ordering the removable tailpipe for my Sutton Exhaust as well. I got it at Oshkosh but still haven't installed it.
    Steve Pierce

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  17. #97
    skywagon8a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Pierce View Post
    It is an optical illusion in the picture.
    OK thanks, even taking that into consideration it doesn't look straight. I'm looking at the front push rod tube and the rocker box cover relationship to the nose bowl.
    N1PA

  18. #98

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    Quote Originally Posted by mike mcs repair View Post
    bend angle (up) into aluminum floor board edge is simplest and lightest, and keeps the crud contained...
    Agree with Mike on alum floor, also provides additional fastening points for interior panels.


    Great thread Steve, lots of good info, thanks for sharing.


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    Last edited by Oliver; 12-15-2017 at 11:49 AM.
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  19. #99
    Bearhawk Builder's Avatar
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    Steve, how much of that tailpipe do you have to cut off to get the lower cowl off. Have you figured out how little you can get away with cutting?

  20. #100
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bearhawk Builder View Post
    Steve, how much of that tailpipe do you have to cut off to get the lower cowl off. Have you figured out how little you can get away with cutting?
    This is plenty to both attach the tailpipe to and get the lower cowl on and off easily.

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  21. #101
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywagon8a View Post
    OK thanks, even taking that into consideration it doesn't look straight. I'm looking at the front push rod tube and the rocker box cover relationship to the nose bowl.
    After looking at it again I noticed I did have the bottom of nose bowl too far aft. Good eye Pete. Got it adjusted and my cowl doors built with more material on the lower trailing edge to compensate for the Thrustline modification.

    On the right door I started from the hinge and worked down using the old door as a pattern and compensating for the curve and marking the holes for the latches, fitting to the nose bowl lip and then the trailing edge. While talking to Thrustline Mark he told me about starting at the latches and pulling it up to the hinge. I decided to try his method on the left door. I cut out for the latches, installed them with no washers (shims) and started pulling it up, marking the line for the nose bowl and trimmed to fit. Once the door was fit to the nose bowl I marked where the edge of the cowl door hits the hinge on the nose bowl and the boot cowl, pulled the door up tight and duct taped it so I could mark my cut line. Once cut I put the door back on and clamped the door to the hinge with a long padded Vise-grip clamp and drilled one rivet hole through the door and hinge. Then I removed, drilled and riveted the hinge on. The door fits nice and tight on the nose bowl with two washers under the latches. The nice thing about this method is that the over center latches are perfectly aligned making it latch very easily.

    This is always a nerve wracking yet rewarding job. I have scrapped a few doors over the years with a lot of work in them. I am very happy with the fit and finish of these. I guess I held my mouth just right.


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  22. #102
    Bill Rusk's Avatar
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    Very nice Steve. Very nice indeed.

    Bill
    Very Blessed.

  23. #103

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    I have flying proof that when finished this aircraft will be the second best Super Cub ever produced and without a doubt it will be well thought out with a fit and finish will be as good as is humanly possible and worth every day it took.

    Kirby
    Remember, These are the Good old Days!
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  24. #104
    nightflyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLDCROWE View Post
    I have flying proof that when finished this aircraft will be the second best Super Cub ever produced and without a doubt it will be well thought out with a fit and finish will be as good as is humanly possible and worth every day it took.

    Kirby
    According to Joe Wood, his is the best Super Cub Steve ever built.
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  25. #105

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    Quote Originally Posted by nightflyer View Post
    According to Joe Wood, his is the best Super Cub Steve ever built.
    ......If it just had bigger tires
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  26. #106
    nightflyer's Avatar
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    I made a quick trip out to Graham yesterday to check on the cub. The carbon fiber under seat storage is trimmed up and fitted. The large baggage door is almost finished and turned out great. It’s very light and rigid and will be painted black to match the cockpit door.
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