• If You Are Having Trouble Logging In with Your Old Username and Password, Please use this Forgot Your Password link to get re-established.
  • Hey! Be sure to login or register!

Solar Chargers

Only one has a visible data plate. As I recall at the time most of them were 6 volt. Those props sure are simple though. I had one like these on my T-craft.
 
We are making slow progress along the path. Have to turn a new center shaft to add the prop and test, as originally thought. Flange idea needed too much tolerance on alignment.

pb
 
Rather than getting deep into turning the shaft, Why not square off the face of the pulley flange? If the basic dynamo needs too much altering the whole original simple idea gets out of control.
 
skywagon8a said:
Rather than getting deep into turning the shaft, Why not square off the face of the pulley flange? If the basic dynamo needs too much altering the whole original simple idea gets out of control.
Click to expand...

I'm not following your thought here Pete regarding squaring off the face. Square it off in shape, or square it off on the face plane? I'm not following your direction on what benefit that provides?

Regarding altering getting out of control, I need to get one built and bring it up to speed. No matter how I do it, it needs to achieve the desired output. Once and if it does that, we can then look at best methods to achieve the same result, but in a cost and ease-of-creation manner.

pb
 
Well, I guess that I don't understand what you mean by "Have to turn a new center shaft to add the prop and test".

My thought about mounting the prop was to ensure that the pulley which is mounted to the dynamo had a flat surface or face onto which a prop is bolted. This surface should be square to the shaft so that each blade tip of the the prop will have minimum run-out. As long as the outer circumference is square it should hold the prop in proper alignment. Mounting bolt holes can be drilled and tapped into the pulley.

By the way I'm thinking of a multi bladed fan made from a plywood disc for the prop. I started to whittle a two bladed prop out of a 2X4 for test purposes. It was too bulky for my taste to get the proper pitch.
 
I have two trolling motor props that I'm going to test first, and the easiest mounting method is a center shaft. The pulley flange is cupped, so while I could replace it with a flat flange it would not allow space for nuts between it and the motor magnet housing. It would not be that precise to drill the existing cupped flange to then mount to another flange with a shaft that was perfectly centered for the prop, and so removing the existing center shaft and replacing it with a longer one is a better solution.

The motor housing rotates on friction from the bolt tension, as there is no physical connection to spin it, and creating a longer shaft will allow me to step the shaft and keep motor shaft tension separate from prop shaft tension, although they will be the same shaft.

Peter
 
Put the ALT in a bucket of water with the shaft 1/4" above the water and weld a nut on to hold the prop?

Glenn
 
The shaft is removable Glenn, and due to the flat "head" design to get a good center point the simplest thing would be to chuck it in a lathe and center the end for welding or otherwise. I considered drilling and tapping it but it's just not quite large enough. But if I'm going to center the end face I might as well just turn down a rod or bolt to be one piece.

pb

IMG_1463.jpg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1463.jpg
    IMG_1463.jpg
    636.7 KB · Views: 150
I get now, in looking at it mounted on the tractor it is not obvious that the outer half of the pulley is just a cupped washer. Don't know whether it matters which direction that it rotates since it is an AC output. On the tractor the rotation is counter clockwise. Opposite direction from the airplane prop.
 
skywagon8a said:
I get now, in looking at it mounted on the tractor it is not obvious that the outer half of the pulley is just a cupped washer. Don't know whether it matters which direction that it rotates since it is an AC output. On the tractor the rotation is counter clockwise. Opposite direction from the airplane prop.
Click to expand...

Rotation direction doesn't matter. The AC output will still have to be rectified.

Web
 
I'm hoping that this 11" prop has enough blade area to provide the needed torque to spin it. I hope to be proven wrong, but it may not be enough.

IMG_1464.JPG

I could always add a recoil starter cord to help get it spinning.... or simply keep pulling it to manually charge the battery. :lol:

PD_0071_517_308430001.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1464.JPG
    IMG_1464.JPG
    1.8 MB · Views: 140
  • PD_0071_517_308430001.jpeg
    PD_0071_517_308430001.jpeg
    48.3 KB · Views: 148
How about something like this? just hook the belt back up

paddle-boats-cantref-childrens-farm.jpg
 
wireweinie said:
This is what I see from that diagram

-1.25Sb = dynamo stator
-WR = Battery charge light, goes positive when charge system is inop.
-1.25B = Ground
-R = Ignition switch (on/off), 'field' for us.
-1.25Sb = dynamo stator
1.25W = Battery (+), main bus for us.

Web
Click to expand...

Web,

Is my schematic correct?

apm6000-2__58672.1471293411.jpg Dynamo-Circuit-2.png
 

Attachments

  • apm6000-2__58672.1471293411.jpg
    apm6000-2__58672.1471293411.jpg
    42.1 KB · Views: 131
  • Dynamo-Circuit-2.png
    Dynamo-Circuit-2.png
    20.8 KB · Views: 112
Progress update. Here's what I know.

Created a new shaft and mound of prop number one. The pitch is too high to overcome the starting torque anywhere from 0 to 90 mph out the truck window. Wasn't able to test beyond that with the rain and the traffic.

If you flip the prop, 50 miles an hour will match the dynamo torque to provide a slow rpm turn. I would say sub 200.
From 55 mph on up, with the flick of the prop it will spin up to a very good RPM. Enough where I had to pull my hand in and let it spin down before it reached full RPM.
I have another prop on hand that I will try, and I might try one of the iPhone strobe apps to guesstimate RPM.
My gut reaction is that this prop will provide the RPM needed, just need a little helper motor to start it.

Edit : way too bright to use an strobe style iPhone app, out the window in the rain... lol


7c26ad782b887863bcde3955a65fd691.jpg


0be11bc89392b7b48b5b22b4a879dcde.jpg



Transmitted from my FlightPhone
 
Last edited:
Had my helper drive and I mounted prop #2. Appears to be same pitch, but smaller blade area. Same result. Spins good if you flick it, but won't start on it's own at any speed.

Going to search out more prop options.

 
Unit was not wired up. Magnet poles are STRONG.

I still like the weedwacker pull cord in the floor. Just pull it once to start the charging the system. ;)
 
wireweinie said:
Just hook it up to a main. Taxi around a lot before flight.

Web
Click to expand...

A main tire? Lol... skip the prop, and just add AG tread to the bush wheels. It'll spin in flight.

Pete, perhaps a greater pitch, but I expect I need more blade area. 3 or 4 blade (5 would be great but hard to find) to get enough pressure to overcome the magnets force at rest. It won't spin as fast as a 2-blade, but probably fast enough.

It doesn't take much to start it, you can actually flick it backwards and as it comes to a stop the snap back will start it turning with the prop.

pb
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Crash
Another Light Weight Battery Option
2 3 4
Replies
116
Views
66K
Eddie747
E
A
B&C Charging system
Replies
6
Views
3K
CptKelly
C
F
Odyssey Battery has switched Polarity - Diod Meltdown -fire
Replies
28
Views
10K
Carey Gray
C
Scouter
Battery jump pack review
2
Replies
37
Views
15K
stewartb
S
cub yellow
Jump start pack
2 3 4
Replies
104
Views
22K
cubflier
cubflier
Back
Top