Chris & D.A.'s/Denny's Super Cub

Shock boot finally came back from the seamstress and they turned out great. If anyone wants a set for their shocks PM me. DA, yours my friend are on the way.

How many inches of travel does that gear have?

Those boots look good!

Looks like 5 inches of travel.

The boots are 500 denier nylon with a urethane coating inside to keep some moisture out. They zip up so the can be removed for maintenence or inspection.

Looks awesome Jay. Thanks again brother!

D.A. said:

Catto notified me that they're shipping the propeller to you Jay.

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Any news on that low pitch piece of art prop?? I hope I won't regret the 86-40 that I was told to buy.

I have the prop, but the weather is not conducive to testing at the moment. I hope that Sunday will be better.

Put that bad boy through its paces, pull, climb, cruise, the whole enchilada.

So I got the keys to my new Arlington hangar last Thursday and spent each night after work moving in. FINALLY I'll have a nice big place to spread my stuff out and get some work done. So tonight I head over to the hangar after my 10 hour work day all excited to do my first project, I know - - - I'll mount my 35's - How cool will that be! Well, after 45 minutes of beat'n shove'n push'n force'n and cuss'n, I can't get those flame'n wheel halves to seat in the tires to save my bacon. I can't find any special instructions in the info sent by ABW either. What am I doing wrong? Do I need to use soapy water, talcum powder, what am I doing wrong.

Many thanks in advance.

Get a couple lengths of quarter inch all-thread cut to about 12". Put washers and nuts on each end (after you put them through the mounted wheel halves). Gradually tighten them up to draw the halves together so that you can start the wheel bolts in the empty hole(s). Once they are squeezed together enough, remove the all-thread and put in the rest of the wheel bolts.

D.A. said:

So I got the keys to my new Arlington hangar last Thursday .........

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Where on the airport is your new hangar, Dave? Maybe the next time I'm over there I'll look you up.

Eric

Ursa Major said:

Get…all-thread…Gradually tighten them up to draw the halves together so that you can start the wheel bolts…

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Thanks Ursa. I had thought about that but there was this little voice saying “Hey dummy, you’re trying to force a $1000 wheel into a $2000 tire - - - Maybe you should slow down and think about this a little?” But you’re spot on Ursa. Jason from ABW said virtually the same thing. He takes a larger all-thread and puts it through the bearing holes with a couple of large area washers made out of plywood. He said you could also use talc powder.
Thanks Ursa. By the way, I looked at that hangar on your row that sold a few months back when he only wanted to sell half interest. If another one comes up on that row, PM me if you don’t mind.

hotrod180 said:

Where on the airport is your new hangar, Dave? Maybe the next time I'm over there I'll look you up.

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Eric buddy, as you know, the original section of the airport is on the East side and runs North and South, my hangar is on the south side where the new hangars are going up, most Western building, Northwest corner. It’ll be a perfect location for “Hang’n” during the Fly-In. You and Warren are welcome anytime. PM your cell number to me and I’ll text you when we can have a Burgers and Bushwheels lunch on a Saturday.

Through advice here from Ursa and from Jason at ABW's, I've come up with the Home Depot 35" ABW Installation kit. They already have all thread in 18" lengths and straight rod in 3' lengths. I cut the rods in thirds to act as guides as the wheel halves are drawn together by the all threads. Hopefully by tomorrow night, I'll have the tires mounted and will have forgotten the clever cuss words I invented the other night during my first attempt at this...

I use this same method when I switch back to the tube type Goodyear's for the winter. When installing a tube, be REAL careful that you don't pinch the tube between the wheels halves when tightening together - don't ask how I know :-(. Easiest way I know to ruin a good tube.

Sorry I haven't made any updates in awhile, I've been lazy and I've been putting the updates on FaceBook.

I used the all-threads and guide rods to draw the wheels together but when I put air in the tire it didn't bead up evenly. Steve Pierce and Tom Ford gave me advice and after putting more pressure in it, it finally came up the wheel rim and beaded up alright.

I got this totally cool digital tire pressure gauge at NAPA, it reads in .1 PSI increments. Once I had this I could throw the coals to 'er and bead the tire without worrying about blowing the sucker into the next zip code. The valve stem is recessed a little bit on the ABW so the normal angled pressure nozzles don't engage the valve stem very well so I bought this old school filler nozzle and it works perfect.

Steve Pierce mentioned that he'd seen ABW's distorted that had been sitting for a long time without being inflated. When ABW ships their tires they wrap the shipping label in cling wrap which pulls the beads together. Mine have sat for a long time with the cling wrap still pulling the beads together in the one area only. Steve mentioned putting just a little (Very very little) pressure in the tire to straighten them out before mounting the wheel. I'll give that a try on my second tire.

In the middle of all this, I moved into a new hangar on the Arlington Airport. It's on the south side, western most building, northwestern hangar. Should be a perfect jump off point for the Fly-In.

Glad you got your tires mounted, Dave- I was about to call Les Schwab & send them over. Nice hangar BTW- got an extra corner too. Sweet. You're even near 11/29 grass- the only "official" grass strip of the three (or more) there.

hotrod180 said:

Nice hangar BTW...You're even near 11/29 grass- the only "official" grass strip of the three (or more) there.

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Yeah this hangar is near all kinds of grass to land on and we have a huge grass field adjacent to the West to park on when we have a Bushwheels and Burgers Bash! Plus, it opens up right toward the Fly-In area. If I ever stop working 7 days a week you need to come by.

These are our master cylinders after Jay Stanford did his magic in them. Awesome work!

Does anyone here have Wayne Mackey's phone number? I have an old email address but I don't think its good any more. He played a big part in the development of our airplane and I'd really like to get some input from him. If anyone knows his number, please PM me.

Thanks in advance.

D.A.

I had a great visit with Wayne Mackey on the phone over the weekend. Very helpful and it's nice when guys of his level of knowledge are so willing to share information. What was also cool is the fact that he was involved in our airplane early on when Denny was setting it up for competition. Wayne has flown our airplane several times and our slats were prototypes of his. All very cool.

As a result of that conversation, we’re going to make some changes to the airplane, first of all, we’re going to change the way the T/L mod was done and we’re going to lower the engine some and shorten the mount also. If you look at the profile pictures of the airplane, the nose is REALLY up in the line of sight of the pilot. I measured the engine mount lower spacer tonight and its every bit of 2 9/16s long. I don’t know how long they are usually, but that seems long. We also want to go to a non-swing out type mount as well (Oh boy, here comes the rant). So Chris and I need to decide on how best to accomplish lowering and shortening the mount. Chris read through the old Thrust Line thread (598 replies…..) and found where Mark’s instructions were to measure your fuselage before you even get started. Between his instructions and the 12183 Drawing off of Bugs66’s website, I went out to the hangar tonight and took the measurements. It looks like our frame is spot on, thank goodness. Now, my measurements were very unscientific, but they were close enough to show that our fuselage is good to go.

Steve Furjesi offers a Dynafocal Mount that is parallel to the HRL. DW says Steve can probably move things around on his fixture to lower the engine as well. Both DW and Olibuilt run 1” shorter mounts which we’ll shorten it 1” at least.

Here is a link to Steve’s T/L PA18 mount and it says the accessory case is 9.25” from the firewall. Does anyone know if that’s shortened from stock?
http://www.super-12.com/Engine_Mounts-PA-12_Dyna_1_Short_mount_1.html

Wayne mentioned we might talk to Backcountry Cubs about having them build a mount also.

Good times!

Javron can also make one

Javron made one for Bill Rusk which lowered the rear of the engine leaving the prop in the original location.

Also do not be too quick to eliminate the swing out capability. When an engine is tight to the firewall and you need to work on something on the accessory case (even if it is only one time) you will be glad that you are able to swing the engine. Removing just two bolts and swinging is a lot easier than pulling four bolts through the firewall and finding a hoist to hold the engine. What will you do if you are out in the boonies when you need to do this?

DA

I lowered my engine 2 inches and retained the TL mod. This takes the "kink" out of the cowl and also gives better over the nose visibility. I did not move the engine back. It is already crowded enough back there. I too took the swing out option out of the mount. You might give Jay at Javron a call. He is already jigged for the mount you are considering and further, it is my understanding that he pays a small "royalty" to Mark when he builds a "Thrustline" mount. Here is a link to a post where I talk about some of the issues you may encounter when lowering the engine.
http://www.supercub.org/forum/showt...g-a-Javron-Cub&p=629622&viewfull=1#post629622
there is also info prior to that and after but that might help. Hope so.

Best of luck

Bill

Kinda neat that he's paying a little kickback to Mark E. While he didn't invent the zero degree thrustline (the J Cubs were designed with it) he has put endless effort into testing and he's responsible for many of us being aware of what there is to be gained.

Before you start moving the engine radicly look around at all the other issues you will in counter (Gascolator, lower cowl, air intake, just to name a few) Bills thread will point out all the work he had to do just to drop two inches as you know mine is one inch lower and things are tight.

DW

Bill Rusk said:

DA

I lowered my engine 2 inches and retained the TL mod. This takes the "kink" out of the cowl and also gives better over the nose visibility... Bill

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Hi Bill,
Do you mean your prop flange is 2" lower than a stock pa18-150 with the negative thrustline? Or do you mean 2" lower than where it would have been with the zero thrustline? Hope the question comes across clearly.

Thanks. Also congratulations on such a nice airplane!