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New Panel

Loogief16

Registered User
Thinking of purchasing a Super Cub, it will need a refurbishment on the panel, nothing fancy but the basic instruments (TC, A/S, VVI, Alt, RPM), plus alt, voltage, fuel flow, engine gauges a radio and a transponder, with room for an AERA 796.

Any ideas how much that would cost? Any suggestions on who could do it for a fair price? Thanks

BTW new in this forum, but have been reading for ages...

Loogie
 
cost? = Lots$$

but while you are at it fix the layout.. piper did some crazy things...

my rules I have be taught/learned when laying out new panel
  • mixture moves to right side, usually ends up towards top of panel
  • key switch or start button right side ABOVE primer/ slight offset so when you have key in start position you can also be feeding primer with the "ball" of your hand for a real cold engine
  • carb heat goes on left side in front of throttle so you can go full throttle and turn carb heat off in on motion on a go around
  • try NOT to put push pull controls(that are normally in the pulled out position) right at bottom of extended (downwards) panel where they might get snagged and bent by pilot getting into and out of plane
  • move all your electrical from wing root(fire danger) to bottom of panel, make it a nice removable or hinged panel, and remember to wire it so panel can still be opened fully to work on them...(don't ask :) )
  • REMEMBER there are TUBES back there as you position your gauges and such...
  • since you are starting from scratch, 'try' to group things logically... if the physical things(hitting tubes) allow
  • you can chop out that goofy 3/8 channel in center going up to V bars(it's a 3/8" tube on Airframes fuselage, not sure why Boodie did that) if you need radio to go there
  • label all the breakers and instruments on the BOTTOM( & top of breakers if on a foldout panel), you might be the poor fool working under there for next 20 years trying to fix/add things, it will save you time and PAIN, and probably $$$
 
Mike, that is great advise, those are awesome ideas obviously ergonomics was not a high priority when they were building these things 40 years ago! Will take all of them under advise when I get the panel redone.

Loogie
 
I put my start/mag switch and primer on right. I have the carb heat, mixture and radio on left side so I can keep right hand on stick (works great in rough air). I have pulled the mixture on downwind more than once but you really notice it fast so not much of a problem. Flight instruments are on top engine are on bottom Surface mount the GPS on removable hole cover. That way upgrade is easy and you have access to reach behind the dash. In dash mounts are a lot harder to change. I see over the top of 795 with no problem. I might move carb heat and passenger heat down by trim when I recover. DENNY
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Mike,appreciate your input.Is it a good idea to have the primer any where near the electrical area.I am putting mine on the other side to the electrical panel.
 
Mike,appreciate your input.Is it a good idea to have the primer any where near the electrical area.I am putting mine on the other side to the electrical panel.

primer is all solid lines... nothing to leak, unlike wing root area with all the soft/hose clamp lines & glass sight gages... stuff that leaks in a crash.....

I wouldn't even worry about the primer being a cause for concern.....
 
primer is all solid lines... nothing to leak, unlike wing root area with all the soft/hose clamp lines & glass sight gages... stuff that leaks in a crash.....

I wouldn't even worry about the primer being a cause for concern.....
My orig. factory panel had the primer and start button in close proximity but wasn't there mention of separation in that mag switch relocation notice thingie awhile back?
 
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Where is the best place to put a compass? On the panel or on one of the tubes overhead? Any compass suggestions?

Loogie
 
Where is the best place to put a compass? On the panel or on one of the tubes overhead? Any compass suggestions?

Loogie
There has been a lot of discussion on this over the years. The only way it worked for me was to get a SIRS navigator compass and glue it to the windshield over the pilots head. It works well in this location.
 
SIRS navigator, mine worked better lower right corner of windshield. I even tried degaussed the frame it did not help. The one currently in the dash works great if I am flying NORTH:smile:
DENNY
 
Beautiful panel. I guess hitting that mattress will not hurt much.

Mike has done way more panels than I, but I bet you will have 15 hours in it not counting materials and labels. And that is with somebody who is already set up to punch the holes and get them right the first time. Two grand minimum, but great fun and satisfying to do it yourself for less than a tenth that.
 
Fun to do your own panel. This one has now gone over the circle 3 times from Colorado. I'm sure this won't appeal to all, but I like it. Based on fact that I watch the GPS most of the time and wanted it front and center. I love the 696, and it's a great value now. Would like the new Garmin radio, but decided to invest in gas instead. Pulled the VOR and went to the Becker to get the KT 76A out from under the radio. Have a power supply on lower left that I can use inserts for two USB charge ports, or my elec. tire pump. Have an Ipad mini in a RAM roller mount above left , but find it too hard to see through the glare. GIB likes to watch it tho. Radio shop recommended tinnermans on a rail to mount the radio and GPS boxes to make install and repair easier. Leave all the lights on all the time since going to LED lang/taxi lights. I hate to post personal pics like this waiting for the rocks to fly, but this panel works for me.
 
Loggie
Where are you located? 2 days to build and fit the dash another one or two to get it wired in. Retrofit on a old cub is never smooth. My IA built it on his bench. You can get alaska airframes to cut you one. I would not powder coat it just spray wrinkle black it is easy to touch up when you change your mind and want to move something. I did not keep track of price but off the top of my head I think you are looking at 12 grand or so if all new parts/labor. My AI is digital very light!
DENNY
 
If you are talking about all new radios, mounting racks, wiring, and the cost of those items, twelve grand might be the number. You will need a DER if you change structure. It takes me about three hours to lay out and cut an aluminum blank, if I can find the fly cutter and the hole patterns. I did spend two weeks on a Mooney, converting it from WWII instruments and vacuum tubes to a six pack. Wish i had a picture of that beauty.
 
Denny, I live in Smithfield VA, where do you do your work? Does that include moving the wing CBs down to the panel?

Loogie
 
primer is all solid lines... nothing to leak, unlike wing root area with all the soft/hose clamp lines & glass sight gages... stuff that leaks in a crash.....

I wouldn't even worry about the primer being a cause for concern.....

Thanks Mike appreciate.Ron.
 
Loogie
I work in the medical field not aviation. I am up near Anchorage AK. The time I quoted is what my IA took including moving electrical. It will vary on the shop and experience of the IA. If you plan properly as mike pointed out you should not have to make any tubing changes. Finding the right shop to do the job is the trick. I am not sure who is in your area but it is worth taking the time to check out several shops and find one that understands what they are doing. It might be worth a flight to Texas. I heard of a guy down there that does fabric planes.:lol: A new panel can grow to a 20 grand project in a very short time so be careful. I am lucky to have IA's that do major rebuilds and total restorations working on my plane. To them a new dash is a rather simple job. I spent quite a bit of time looking at other cubs to figure out what I wanted.
DENNY
 
Denny, thanks appreciate the info. You are correct those type of projects can get a life of their own. Will follow your advise, I am not tied to working something like this locally. Will definitely shop around.

Loogie
 
Nice list Mike. The only thing I'd disagree with is using the hinged or Lord mounted panel. I've always thought they take away to much space that could, otherwise, be used. But maybe I just haven't gotten tired of working upside down.

Web

cost? = Lots$$

but while you are at it fix the layout.. piper did some crazy things...

my rules I have be taught/learned when laying out new panel
  • mixture moves to right side, usually ends up towards top of panel
  • key switch or start button right side ABOVE primer/ slight offset so when you have key in start position you can also be feeding primer with the "ball" of your hand for a real cold engine
  • carb heat goes on left side in front of throttle so you can go full throttle and turn carb heat off in on motion on a go around
  • try NOT to put push pull controls(that are normally in the pulled out position) right at bottom of extended (downwards) panel where they might get snagged and bent by pilot getting into and out of plane
  • move all your electrical from wing root(fire danger) to bottom of panel, make it a nice removable or hinged panel, and remember to wire it so panel can still be opened fully to work on them...(don't ask :) )
  • REMEMBER there are TUBES back there as you position your gauges and such...
  • since you are starting from scratch, 'try' to group things logically... if the physical things(hitting tubes) allow
  • you can chop out that goofy 3/8 channel in center going up to V bars(it's a 3/8" tube on Airframes fuselage, not sure why Boodie did that) if you need radio to go there
  • label all the breakers and instruments on the BOTTOM( & top of breakers if on a foldout panel), you might be the poor fool working under there for next 20 years trying to fix/add things, it will save you time and PAIN, and probably $$$
 
New panel! Getting closer to being done!! I have had this idea for awhile, finally able to implement it!
 

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Another look. I hope to be flying this spring.6-16-2013B 010.jpg
 

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Loogie,

I used to live in Smithfield north of town. Based at Suffolk, Hampton Roads, and Wakefield. Do you have an aircraft now? If so, where are you based? If you plan to purchase or build a aircraft, I suggest you get in touch with the local EAA chapter. EAA chapter 339 used to be based out of PVG Hampton Roads Executive. The members were a wealth of knowledge. Most former military. Many A&P/IA's. They can certainly send you in the right direction for cost cutting ideas. Google EAA and look at their list of chapters.
 
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