Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 41 to 80 of 272

Thread: Oratex Fabric

  1. #41
    beaver18's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Quebec Canada
    Posts
    180
    Post Thanks / Like
    Good day Lars, can you patch a different fabric system ( stits or rantane )with Oratex 6000 and how would you proceed ?

  2. #42
    Lars Gleitsmann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    151
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hi "Beaver18",
    sorry I had not seen or heard about your question before, only found it now! Yes sure, It can be used to patch the "Usual Lifetime fabrics". Clean it up , scuff it up, paint our glue on, let it dry, paint the glue on the patch , let it dry, and put the patch on and trigger the glue's with heat. DONE.-4ever! And sure can be painted if so desired. Check website and U-Tube-channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/BetterAircraftFabric
    About this subject see here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqDme...92za1HXmjbft3C
    that is the video: Oratex: Patching "Legacy Fabrics" with "Oratex Special" Patch kits: Field Repairs !
    This also talks about our "Super Duct Tape"-like Oratex-Special.
    For most folks in the continental USA the looks of this plane here in that video might seem hideously ugly, but for being an fabric covered plane in ALASKA its Very very Normal ! - The extremely long sunny summer days, the Extremely clear winter sky that is sunny'er than most outsiders think, the drastic temperature changes, it all takes a harsh toll on the looks of a fabric covered plane. As the plane is ALWAYS tied down outside and never stays in any hangar, its a pretty good example of hard working bush planes up here...To us here the looks matter less, being RELIABLE is what counts...
    regards,
    Lars

  3. #43

    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Hot Springs, SD
    Posts
    345
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hi Lars, What kind of fabric tension does the oratex develop? The Stits that I have worked with develops adequate tension but the older dope finishes such as Randolph seem to be much tighter. How does the oratex compare?

  4. #44
    beaver18's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Quebec Canada
    Posts
    180
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hi Lars, can you clean the glue around the patch before or after doing the work

  5. #45
    Lars Gleitsmann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    151
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by beaver18 View Post
    Hi Lars, can you clean the glue around the patch before or after doing the work
    NOPE, once the glue in on there and TRIGGERED with heat, than it is not removable anymore. The patch can be made slightly larger than the glue underneath, also the glue can be painted. Did you see the "Oratex Special" Video???
    Email me and I can send the Manual/ FAQ's.
    regards,
    Lars

  6. #46
    Lars Gleitsmann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    151
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Super11XP View Post
    Hi Lars, What kind of fabric tension does the oratex develop? The Stits that I have worked with develops adequate tension but the older dope finishes such as Randolph seem to be much tighter. How does the oratex compare?
    First Let me ask you how much tightness do you think is right? How much do you think is NEEDED??? - With the usual / Traditional / Legacy Aircraft Fabrics there is the problem that they go Way too tight and might/will do even more so, over time. Sucked in /scalloped trailing edges of wings ailerons flaps (bend sheetmetal) and bend tubing in trailing edges of rudders and elevators is a sure result of THAT. We have even seen Bend / Sucked inward Lower Longerons on Super Cubs and others! Both of our B7GCBC's have all trailing edges scalloped from the fabric going over-tight ! - Because of all that Oratex is DESIGNED not to exceed a specific design tightness that is for sure high enough for flying etc. As said, there are over 100 planes flying with it in Europe and nobody had any Problem with "It is too loose". The thing is that since most folks are used to the EXTREME tightness of some of the Legacy products, they may be turned away by the somewhat different ways of the Oratex Fabric. Our Oratex also has a so called "E-Module" that provides some flexibility that is permanent and does not need to be activated by the heat-shrink-feature. We have re-done planes with the only change being the Oratex and nothing else and they flew better and slower and used less RPM at Cruise even with weight onboard to compensate for the weight-loss of the Fabric change. There is an ongoing study in Europe now where we want to figure those positive changes out in detail and with 3rd party verification as well. Watch the video of the ANtonov An2 1000hp biplane flying, with the closeup of the wings and flaps: Itsa 12500lbs plane in the USA and in foreign places they fly the up to 16500lbs !!! So its sure enough tight enough.
    Best Regards,
    Lars

  7. #47

    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    1
    Post Thanks / Like
    Lars,
    What's necessary to remove and recover a plane with Oratex?
    I'm wondering specifically about removing the old glue and fabric from wood or aluminum.
    You had mentioned in a prior post that "once the glue is on there and triggered with heat, that it is not removable anymore". Has anybody had to take this stuff off an entire aircraft? Everything wears out eventually. Does one heat and peel up the old fabric? Or?

    Also, the surface prep to ensure adhesion sounds pretty important.
    Following removal and preparing for reapplication - what procedures are needed ?
    Is complete removal of all residue needed?
    ChrisM

  8. #48

    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    nd
    Posts
    2,536
    Post Thanks / Like

  9. #49
    Little_Cub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Palmer, Alaska
    Posts
    227
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisM View Post
    Lars,
    What's necessary to remove and recover a plane with Oratex?
    I'm wondering specifically about removing the old glue and fabric from wood or aluminum.
    You had mentioned in a prior post that "once the glue is on there and triggered with heat, that it is not removable anymore". Has anybody had to take this stuff off an entire aircraft? Everything wears out eventually. Does one heat and peel up the old fabric? Or?

    Also, the surface prep to ensure adhesion sounds pretty important.
    Following removal and preparing for reapplication - what procedures are needed ?
    Is complete removal of all residue needed?
    ChrisM
    Opinion only
    We have hacked and changed several things in the life of our build.. I would say cleanup is easier than anything we have used so far.. heat softens the attachment and does a lot when removing a chunk. In some cases we have treated the old glue like primer, if it already had a good bond we added some fresh over the top.

    Agreed, like paint or any other process.. preparation is the key to make it last and isolation of bi-metal contacts is part of that. A light prime over properly treated and scuffed material helps this stuff attach.

    With 470 hours on Lil' Cub in 16 months it has held up very well to everything so far.
    PM if you want more specifics.

  10. #50

    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    6
    Post Thanks / Like
    Lars, new to this tread, have an Exp Super Cub built up, no fabric, but very close. A friend that is helping with the build talked to I suppose you at Oshkosh, and was very impressed with the product. His only negative comment was that the light shown through, and it looked to him a little like a translucent cover. He did not think it appealing in that matter. If so was wondering if you could block the cover from behind or can you spray a coat of polyurethane over the cover to block it and give it more shine? I realize that takes away one of it great attributes being not having to paint. Possibly the translucent is not as noticeable as he thought. Would appreciate your comments. We are old Stits, Poly guys so just trying to learn.
    Thanks Bruce

  11. #51
    Roger Peterson's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sweeny, Texas
    Posts
    1,454
    Post Thanks / Like
    If you park it so that the sun is right behind it, you can see some shadows of the tubes in the fuselage, but as a general rule, you will never notice it. Have never even had anyone comment about it.

    Roger
    Based at O8XS. Sweeny Texas (Winter)
    Finlayson Lake, Ontario (Summer)
    I plan on living forever.......so far, so good !!!

  12. #52
    Little_Cub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Palmer, Alaska
    Posts
    227
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by planenuts View Post
    it looked to him a little like a translucent cover. He did not think it appealing in that matter. If so was wondering if you could block the cover from behind or can you spray a coat of polyurethane over the cover to block it and give it more shine? I realize that takes away one of it great attributes being not having to paint. Possibly the translucent is not as noticeable as he thought. Would appreciate your comments. We are old Stits, Poly guys so just trying to learn.
    Thanks Bruce
    Hi Bruce (just one guys opinion..)
    This fall with the sun on the opposite side.. it had about 450 hours.

    IMG_1753.jpg

    Your friend may be right but what you can also see is 25# that your not packing around that allows the surface to peel, crack and delaminate or ringworm. Gotta agree it doesn't shine like an 'Ol Packard but it doesn't fly like one either!

  13. #53

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Montgomery, TX
    Posts
    30
    Post Thanks / Like
    What's the best way to add detail (stripes, lettering, accent, etc.). Paint or vinyl?

  14. #54
    Lars Gleitsmann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    151
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Traash View Post
    What's the best way to add detail (stripes, lettering, accent, etc.). Paint or vinyl?
    Hi Traash, The Best Way? Depends on who is looking at it. It can be painted and even old rattlecan Krylon will stay on there, but we offer Also a whole Plethora of "stick on quick" self-adhesive products for that, we have even pre-made checkerboard stuff in different colors and sizes! Some of these are made from the so called Oratex600special which can also be used as a patch kit material: Its kinda like having a super-duct-tape that never turns bad and that doesnt care any about UV-Rays. I have it on both my planes, see one in this video: Oratex: Patching "Legacy Fabrics" with "Oratex Special" Patch kits: Field Repairs its found at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqDme...&feature=share
    If you email me I can email you our digital catalog and its all in there. Best Regards from Anchorage...

  15. #55
    Lars Gleitsmann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    151
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by planenuts View Post
    ....A friend that is helping with the build talked to I suppose you at Oshkosh, and was very impressed with the product. His only negative comment was that the light shown through, and it looked to him a little like a translucent cover. If so was wondering if you could block the cover from behind or can you spray a coat of polyurethane over the cover to block it and give it more shine? I realize that takes away one of it great attributes being not having to paint. Possibly the translucent is not as noticeable as he thought....Thanks Bruce
    Hi Planenuts/Bruce! Yes it is somewhat translucent, especially the lighter colors and the 600 more so than the Oratex6000. Its the old story of eating the cake and still wanting to have it...The dear physics: Everyone wanted LIGHT and NO MORE CRACKING AND FLAKING, ever! So it has THAT but thus is somewhat translucent. BUT it can be painted as you did suggest and there are no drawbacks to that, other Than PAINT. Our own proprietary Oracolor Elastic paint will not crack off, flake off or Ringworm, and its 100% solid, kills off the translucency. But it adds weight and nasty painting-spraying etc. Someone could crawl inside and paint the inside with rattlecan or roller and that way kill off the translucency. Our Blue and Olive drab are basically solid, and we will have more colors in the future. Check out pictures of planes on our website and U-Tubechannel, its often not very noticeable. I have a Dornier Do27 Warbird and I will just rattlecan the Oratex so that it looks like Eastern Front '44. ...as desired.

  16. #56
    dplunkt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    S.E. Pennsylvania
    Posts
    60
    Post Thanks / Like
    Lars,
    How is the certification process going?

    Dan P.

  17. #57
    nanook's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    northern alaska
    Posts
    1,460
    Post Thanks / Like
    Until there is some movement towards certification of this process, it is just another experimental product. Why is it taking so long to get somewhere in this direction? If this product is certified in Germany, what is the hang up with certification with the FAA?

  18. #58

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    aviation
    Posts
    21
    Post Thanks / Like
    L,any chance there is some of the checker pattern available up here in AK with 3-4 inch squares, black and white? I have two cub rudder recovers coming up and would like to give it a try.Rocket

  19. #59
    dplunkt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    S.E. Pennsylvania
    Posts
    60
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by nanook View Post
    Until there is some movement towards certification of this process, it is just another experimental product. Why is it taking so long to get somewhere in this direction? If this product is certified in Germany, what is the hang up with certification with the FAA?
    Yea, what he said

  20. #60

    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Inkom, Idaho
    Posts
    988
    Post Thanks / Like
    As an experimental guy, my guess the FAA is the holdup?

  21. #61
    Lars Gleitsmann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    151
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisM View Post
    ... 1) What's necessary to remove and recover a plane with Oratex?
    2) removing the old glue and fabric from wood or aluminum.
    3) Has anybody had to take this stuff off an entire aircraft? 4) Does one heat and peel up the old fabric? 5)Also, the surface prep to ensure adhesion sounds pretty important.
    6) Following removal and preparing for reapplication - what procedures are needed ? 7) Is complete removal of all residue needed?
    ChrisM
    Hi ChrisM, All good questions, lets answer them in order, even though Its just as Frank said, but I guess I should answer it point by point: 1) Heatgun and hot iron 2) The old glue will melt just before the fabric melts, so you just keep heating and peeling it off. 3) we know one where they took it off the wings and put it back on later, new glue and new Oratex. 4) yes exactly. 5) yes it is as the glue has no solvent and no toxins that etch or eat into it, the stuff needs to be clean, but just as one would do anyway I dare say! 6) New glue has to be applied to both the structure and the underside of the fabirc. 7) Absolutely Not, as the residue will prove that the glue was applied Right the First Time and is still on there good, it makes a good base to apply the new glue onto.
    We have a brand new Website now and it has a large Manual section as well, please have a look. Regards from Anchorage!

  22. #62
    Lars Gleitsmann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    151
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hi Porcuypine, please call me up about it 907 229 6792

  23. #63
    Lars Gleitsmann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    151
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hi Nanook and Dplunkt, well its going... Yes it is indeed certified in ol' Germany and Europe, but .... in a letter from the FAA they did say that their response time will now be 6 weeks instead of 3 weeks etc and so on...meanwhile the phone rings all day long with experimental builders...

  24. #64
    nanook's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    northern alaska
    Posts
    1,460
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hello Lars, Looking more for specifics on what the hang up is with the FAA certification process. Also when does it look like this will get resolved?

  25. #65
    nanook's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    northern alaska
    Posts
    1,460
    Post Thanks / Like
    Bumping this thread for any updates on certification progress....

  26. #66
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Graham, TX
    Posts
    16,210
    Post Thanks / Like
    Are you guys going to be at Oshkosh again this year?
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers

  27. #67
    Cubus Maximus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    1,670
    Post Thanks / Like
    Oratex on Legend Cub:







  28. #68
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Graham, TX
    Posts
    16,210
    Post Thanks / Like
    Darin told me he saved 8 lbs on that airplane over their normal Stargloss, Ranthane system. Almost $11K. They came within three pounds with a light Polyton finish on another one.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers

  29. #69

    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    401
    Post Thanks / Like
    Steve,

    Are you saying the Stargloss & Ranthane was $11,000, or was the Oratex system with cover & finish $11,000?

    I looked closely at that airplane, and it was well covered and finished. However, the tapes, for my preference, are too prominent and well defined.

  30. #70
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Graham, TX
    Posts
    16,210
    Post Thanks / Like
    That was all the Oratex materials.

    Sent from my SM-N900V using SuperCub.Org mobile app
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers

  31. #71

    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    don
    Posts
    580
    Post Thanks / Like
    Is this stuff fabric or some kind of heavy duty plastic film like Monocote?

  32. #72
    Speedo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    AK
    Posts
    1,630
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by don d View Post
    Is this stuff fabric or some kind of heavy duty plastic film like Monocote?
    Woven fabric.
    Speedo

  33. #73

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    5,597
    Post Thanks / Like
    I am all up for new ideas - I am impressed with Stewarts glue and Ekofill. If this stuff is only 11lbs lighter than a gloss coat Dacron job, we need to know its advantages. Cost? durability? It appears that appearance may not be its strong suit.

  34. #74
    nanook's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    northern alaska
    Posts
    1,460
    Post Thanks / Like
    Well considering they are not getting the process approved by the FAA, who cares? Since it is approved in Germany, why in the hell can't they get it approved here? Someone in this company needs to step up and start talking about why this is not happening...

  35. #75
    skipster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Altamont NY
    Posts
    194
    Post Thanks / Like
    So, basically Oratex is double the cost of a Polyfiber/ Ranthane cover. Legend says Polyfiber was 3 pounds heavier. I guess what you're saving on labor is spent on paying for the stuff. Pretty expensive 3 lbs. My opinion
    Last edited by skipster; 08-04-2014 at 05:32 AM.

  36. #76
    Steve Pierce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Graham, TX
    Posts
    16,210
    Post Thanks / Like
    Darin at Legend said it took them longer to cover a Legend Cub with Ortex than it does Polyfiber. The Ortex was 8 lbs. lighter than the same airplane covered in Polyfiber Stargloss with Ranthane top coat. Another done in Polyfiber and top coated in Polytone with clear on the leading edges was 3 lbs. heavier than the Ortex. I don't think my previous post was very clear. As with anything there is a learning curve as well but I think it does take some muscle to stretch the Ortex around a curve. I am sure Lars will answer here, I saw him at Oshkosh several times and it looked like they were pretty busy.
    Steve Pierce

    Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.
    Will Rogers

  37. #77
    nanook's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    northern alaska
    Posts
    1,460
    Post Thanks / Like
    How can you charge that much for a process that isn't approved for certified aircraft?

  38. #78

    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    nd
    Posts
    2,536
    Post Thanks / Like
    Not having to use a paint gun?

  39. #79
    Olibuilt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
    Posts
    686
    Post Thanks / Like
    It looks like a very nice and good product. Received a sample but went in an other direction. The price was the only reason.
    I'm sure they would sell at least three times more fabric if they soldl it less than half price.... I would have done my project with it.

  40. #80

    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    nd
    Posts
    2,536
    Post Thanks / Like
    How come the american fabric companys dont get on the bandwagon to color fabric so the home builders dont have to look for paint guns and paint booths? Fish eyes, runs are non existant, etc. Great for a guy that only covers something once or twice in a lifetime.

Similar Threads

  1. Oratex UL 6000 Fabric Covering
    By Crash in forum Tips and Tricks
    Replies: 77
    Last Post: 05-14-2015, 10:28 AM
  2. new fabric
    By L16abe in forum Super Cub Repair Facilities
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 01-20-2015, 05:18 PM
  3. fabric wax
    By SC88C in forum Cafe Supercub
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 08-29-2012, 11:40 AM
  4. Fabric: how old is old?
    By jait0 in forum Super Cub Sick Bay
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 06-26-2011, 09:21 PM
  5. fabric
    By TURBO in forum Super Cub Repair Facilities
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 09-05-2002, 11:41 AM

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •