My F-250 has a rack but it's buried under 2' of snow. The little Nissan has a cap so maybe I need to dig out the big truck or better yet get a kid to do it. Based upon your testing, do you think #10 wire from the alternator to a battery with the amp meter attached will be adequate to get a good reading or do I need to use heavier wire? I'm not sure the current weather here is conducive to holding things out the window at even 60 mph...maybe I need a kid in the truck bed...no sure #2 son is that stupid.
Lowrider LSA
- Thread starter Lowrider
- Start date
Marcus,
I don't exactly have an answer since it's only possible to talk to a human at MSD if you have an extension. I did find this in the FAQ section:
What is the best Timing Curve for my car?
There is no real way for our Techs to answer this question but they can point you in the right direction. It takes testing and tuning time to find the best curve that fits your application. Many variables affect the ignition timing curve such as compression, cam specs, intake system, fuel, exhaust, altitude, driving habits and so on. The chart on page 3 lists some factors that will help you determine what sort of timing curve you should work towards for your specific application.
MSD’s mechanical advance mechanism is accurate and easy to adjust so you can try different combinations with the supplied springs and stop bushings. We also offer a variety of electronic timing controls so engines with locked out timing or crank triggers can take advantage of altering the timing as rpm changes.
Note: When you are testing different curves, listen for detonation (spark knock) which is a sign of over-advanced timing.
I suppose this means there is a may to customize the advance curve using their electronic timing control. I need to look into this further and see what additional info I can obtain.
I don't exactly have an answer since it's only possible to talk to a human at MSD if you have an extension. I did find this in the FAQ section:
What is the best Timing Curve for my car?
There is no real way for our Techs to answer this question but they can point you in the right direction. It takes testing and tuning time to find the best curve that fits your application. Many variables affect the ignition timing curve such as compression, cam specs, intake system, fuel, exhaust, altitude, driving habits and so on. The chart on page 3 lists some factors that will help you determine what sort of timing curve you should work towards for your specific application.
MSD’s mechanical advance mechanism is accurate and easy to adjust so you can try different combinations with the supplied springs and stop bushings. We also offer a variety of electronic timing controls so engines with locked out timing or crank triggers can take advantage of altering the timing as rpm changes.
Note: When you are testing different curves, listen for detonation (spark knock) which is a sign of over-advanced timing.
I suppose this means there is a may to customize the advance curve using their electronic timing control. I need to look into this further and see what additional info I can obtain.
This really cute little alternator showed up in the mail today. Once the pulley was removed it weighs 4lbs 9oz. Add an 8 oz prop and it'll pretty close to 5'bs. I can easily spin the shaft with my fingers so I'm hoping the 8" three blade prop will move it without much effort...we'll see.
CamTom12
Registered User
Huntsville, AL
I’d highly recommend using a system that takes rpm and manifold pressure to control spark advance.
Cam,
That's certainly one of the best way to control spark. RPM should be a given and I'll need to do some research on how to put manifold pressure into a digital form and how it can be fed to the MSD unit. There should be a simple way to do that but I'm stuck on the analog MP reading in my mind. The answer is out there.
That's certainly one of the best way to control spark. RPM should be a given and I'll need to do some research on how to put manifold pressure into a digital form and how it can be fed to the MSD unit. There should be a simple way to do that but I'm stuck on the analog MP reading in my mind. The answer is out there.
I received the trolling motor prop today and it looks like it will work just fine once I make a shaft that will thread onto the alternator and provide the proper size shaft for the prop. The prop also needs a "spinner" to provide a more streamline air flow and reduce drag.
I'm getting sidetracked with snow removal and other silly domestic functions. Is it SPRING yet??
I'm getting sidetracked with snow removal and other silly domestic functions. Is it SPRING yet??
Well, I failed twice. I made adapter shafts from the alternator to the prop by welding things together and they are not exactly straight so it ain't workin. I can make one on my lathe pretty easily but the lathe is at the "Southern shop" with 18" of snow around the place...tractor is at the Northern shop so hopefully, this warm weather will make the snow go away soon...never give up!!
Temps in the upper one's F made me think of a decision I made awhile back on my fuselage. I insulated the bottom of the fuselage with 1/2" closed cell foam under the fiber glassed 5mm plywood I used for flooring. Question is...are a lot of folks in cold climates insulating the sides and other areas of their fuselages and if so, how and were? I don't recall off hand the weight of the closed cell foam but it was a few ounces per sq yard and easy to glue to the bottom of the plywood with construction adhesive. I didn't do the sides thinking there would be plenty of heat in the cabin...maybe so.
I walked the 80' from the house to the shop this morning at sunrise and the temp was 12F and 18 kts of wind making it dam cold even with a down jacket zipped up tight...just got a haircut which didn't help. I'm thinking the plane will go more than 18 kts and February here has some great cold and crystal clear flying weather...just thinking.
I walked the 80' from the house to the shop this morning at sunrise and the temp was 12F and 18 kts of wind making it dam cold even with a down jacket zipped up tight...just got a haircut which didn't help. I'm thinking the plane will go more than 18 kts and February here has some great cold and crystal clear flying weather...just thinking.
I have no extra insulation in my plane. My heater kicks butt, however I seldom have it wide open. The one thing to consider in winter flying is what happens when you have a problem and have to land at a unplanned location?? You really need to dress for that event!! Bunny boots, several layers of proper winter clothing, and proper planning will save your life. I had to open my slider the other day because I was too hot!! Don't insulate the plane insulate the pilot and passengers!! A good wool scarf does wonders.
DENNY
DENNY
CamTom12
Registered User
Huntsville, AL
Unless you're building an open cockpit, hopefully you'll see less than 18 kts in the cabin. Should be warmer there just from that.
kestrel
PATRON
Southern NH
Closing the drafts will be more important than insulation. Denny's point is also valid. When cold water kayaking, the mantra is, "dress for the swim".
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skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
My Cub has no insulation and no interior. When I place my hand on the inside of the side fabric just ahead of the door, it feels very warm. There is a lot of warm air coming from the engine passing by the outside. If that air can transfer it's heat into the cabin then the warm air inside can also transfer out. Insulation would reduce this transfer. That being said, draft elimination would likely be as or more effective. Of course both would be best.
Agree with everyone...sorta.
However. another consideration in dressing warm is the desire (NEED) to be comfortable when you fly. I can't fly worth a damn in bunny boots but they are good to have along. The time I spent in Alaska flying part 135. LIFEGUARD and CAP SAR taught me having a well equipped survival kit was the key to staying alive on the ground if need be. I used to fly from Homer to Seward and back over the Harding Ice Field and every trip I would look down and think...there's not even wood down there for a fire. Or a simple flight across Cook Inlet when the icing level was too low to get high enough to glide to land if something quit. I can leave an airport in 90 degree weather in the valley and the mountains 5 miles away still have snow in June...nuff of that.
Sealing the fuselage to stop air infiltration is a goal of mine and I plan to build an exhaust muff that will provide lots of heat into the cabin. One of the reasons I put insulation under the floor is to keep the duct I built away from cold air so it will pump heat to the back seat for the passenger and to keep my feet warm.
I guess the answer so far is there's no need for insulation in a little airplane.
I do have dry suits and wool undies for cold water kayaking and canoeing and I have "cooked" in them in February in the bright sun and when paddling generates lots of body heat they are usually unzipped. My winter flying suit used to be a Carhartt insulated coverall and it's usually unzipped but now I use layering and down that can come off easily but I still have my vest on with some survival gear close at hand. Experience has taught me there is no perfect way to dress for the weather...either too hot or too cold.
Any other thoughts?
However. another consideration in dressing warm is the desire (NEED) to be comfortable when you fly. I can't fly worth a damn in bunny boots but they are good to have along. The time I spent in Alaska flying part 135. LIFEGUARD and CAP SAR taught me having a well equipped survival kit was the key to staying alive on the ground if need be. I used to fly from Homer to Seward and back over the Harding Ice Field and every trip I would look down and think...there's not even wood down there for a fire. Or a simple flight across Cook Inlet when the icing level was too low to get high enough to glide to land if something quit. I can leave an airport in 90 degree weather in the valley and the mountains 5 miles away still have snow in June...nuff of that.
Sealing the fuselage to stop air infiltration is a goal of mine and I plan to build an exhaust muff that will provide lots of heat into the cabin. One of the reasons I put insulation under the floor is to keep the duct I built away from cold air so it will pump heat to the back seat for the passenger and to keep my feet warm.
I guess the answer so far is there's no need for insulation in a little airplane.
I do have dry suits and wool undies for cold water kayaking and canoeing and I have "cooked" in them in February in the bright sun and when paddling generates lots of body heat they are usually unzipped. My winter flying suit used to be a Carhartt insulated coverall and it's usually unzipped but now I use layering and down that can come off easily but I still have my vest on with some survival gear close at hand. Experience has taught me there is no perfect way to dress for the weather...either too hot or too cold.
Any other thoughts?
If you don't have any heat now getting heat into the plane will help a lot. You could use the air force mukluks , they are big but flex better. Heated seats should be easy to do if you have power. All of my floor heat is directed to the back with a scat tube. My major problem is my feet are too hot in the summer. I usually fly in heavy hiking boots in the summer so the Bunny Boots don't bother me in the cub except I just kicked off another breaker switch getting into the plane last week
. The boots in the Cessna is another issue still trying to figure that one out. The scarf has really been one of the best things I have tried, keeps the cold air from going down the back of my neck.
DENNY
. The boots in the Cessna is another issue still trying to figure that one out. The scarf has really been one of the best things I have tried, keeps the cold air from going down the back of my neck.DENNY
Yes Sir...that's pretty much it!
There was discussion that there should be water survival suits available for CAP mission pilots but that didn't last long. Ever try to put one on in a 182? Remember...Altitude is your friend!!
When we flew to Kodiak we just turned the "over water sensor" off and had no problems.
Hey Denny!
I used to have a balaclava stuck in the seat map pocket but it's wool and itches something fierce. Hand warmers in your jacket over your kidneys helps. The majority of synthetic stuff works pretty well and is also comfortable. Layering is my best solution. My insulated Danner boots are just right until I get the plane off the ground and the heat kicks in...in full disclosure I have flown in Crocks...over wool socks of course and you get a much better feel for the rudder. Ain't no perfect solution that I've found. I only have wool in the survival bag...itch or not it keeps you warm when it's wet...heavy but kinda warm. US military surplus gear is also great stuff. The new treatments for down seem to do a good job of maintaining insulation when wet but I haven't tried it yet.
Any other ideas?
I used to have a balaclava stuck in the seat map pocket but it's wool and itches something fierce. Hand warmers in your jacket over your kidneys helps. The majority of synthetic stuff works pretty well and is also comfortable. Layering is my best solution. My insulated Danner boots are just right until I get the plane off the ground and the heat kicks in...in full disclosure I have flown in Crocks...over wool socks of course and you get a much better feel for the rudder. Ain't no perfect solution that I've found. I only have wool in the survival bag...itch or not it keeps you warm when it's wet...heavy but kinda warm. US military surplus gear is also great stuff. The new treatments for down seem to do a good job of maintaining insulation when wet but I haven't tried it yet.
Any other ideas?
I agree military stuff/wool bang for the buck rock!! So if you have floor heat just run a scat tube straight to the rear seat. The tube in mine is over 200 degrees. Feet plenty warm and the heat under and coming up back of seat is great!! You could pull it out and stick under jacket as needed, but having warm air on the back rocks. Backcountry cubs or whatever the name is this week had a nice cheap flange to mount the scat tube.
You don't need to feel the rudder with your feet. The rudder pedal is not you wife, feel free to stomp on the bitch until the nose/ ball /you ass is happy.
Just my way many will disagree.
DENNY
You don't need to feel the rudder with your feet. The rudder pedal is not you wife, feel free to stomp on the bitch until the nose/ ball /you ass is happy.
Just my way many will disagree.DENNY
I have a 1.5" piece of alum tube that will run under the front seat from my heat distribution box (up for defrost, left and right to vents and down to the rear) and I will insulate that with pieces of firewall blanket.
Yip...stomp the ball...been teaching that since 1985 but I still like to be able to feel things. BTW, my wife will stomp back in one way or another!
Yip...stomp the ball...been teaching that since 1985 but I still like to be able to feel things. BTW, my wife will stomp back in one way or another!
I'm currently diverted from aviation...a bit. I'm building a 6' x 10' covered trailer to haul my Harley and probably 4 wheeler to where ever I want and have a place to sleep and eat out of the weather. Frame and floor are done in 8 days...progress continues.
I just read an article in General Aviation News that I think is well written and on point regarding EAB aircraft, the electric plane and FAA. I'll include the link if you care to read it: https://generalaviationnews.com/201...at+an+FBO&utm_campaign=Hangar+Flying+20180224.
Hopefully, I'll be done with the trailer soon and be back on the wing. No I don't have an electric car.
I just read an article in General Aviation News that I think is well written and on point regarding EAB aircraft, the electric plane and FAA. I'll include the link if you care to read it: https://generalaviationnews.com/201...at+an+FBO&utm_campaign=Hangar+Flying+20180224.
Hopefully, I'll be done with the trailer soon and be back on the wing. No I don't have an electric car.
Cub junkie
Registered User
My Moms basement
I built myself a small teardrop trailer for camping. (five x eight)They are popular but I couldn't see paying 8 to 15 large for a shell. A lot of people get carried away with fancy galley's etc. but mine is minimal. I decided a few years ago at Oshkosh that this old man isn't sleeping on an air mattress on the ground anymore. I really only need it for Broadhead, Blakesburg and Lock Haven. My wife is not a camper so mine is for a solo act. I don't mind living like a coyote for a week or two. I have a rack for my bicycle and I can fit a motorcycle in the back of my 4 cyl. Ranger with the tail gate down. Nothing cheap about me. I approve of your diversion.
Mine started out as a TD but grew to a stand up V nose 6x10 with 13' on the center line. I laid out 5x8 on the floor and drove my Polaris 700 over it and quickly found I needed more space. Now I can deal with the Polaris and my Suzuki DRZ 400 together or the Harley by it's self and have a place to eat and sleep and still put my 12' fishing kayak inside or my 12' Duraboat and it's 9.9hp Merc or the Honda 250 and Yamaha TW 200 and the kayak or...well you get the idea. Plus, I should be able to pull it with my Frontier or the F250 or maybe the CRV on flat ground.
I need some ideas from you fiberglass wing builders. I have the floor and sides on the little trailer I'm building and it's time to think about a roof.
First thing that came to mind is build it like a wing with ribs and insulation inside and then attach 5mm underlayment bent to conform to the rib shape top and bottom with 6 oz fiberglass and resin coating on top and blended into the sides to hold everything together. I'd like to make it about 6" higher in the center than the walls, just enough to let the rain run off easily and the whole thing maybe 2" thick with 1.5" foam insulation inside.
I'd like to avoid structural foam and lots of shaping so I'm thinking the ribs on 16" centers could be cut from 3/4" plywood to the desired shape with the underlayment stapled to the ribs and then fiberglassed on top and just painted inside.
Any thoughts or other ideas?
First thing that came to mind is build it like a wing with ribs and insulation inside and then attach 5mm underlayment bent to conform to the rib shape top and bottom with 6 oz fiberglass and resin coating on top and blended into the sides to hold everything together. I'd like to make it about 6" higher in the center than the walls, just enough to let the rain run off easily and the whole thing maybe 2" thick with 1.5" foam insulation inside.
I'd like to avoid structural foam and lots of shaping so I'm thinking the ribs on 16" centers could be cut from 3/4" plywood to the desired shape with the underlayment stapled to the ribs and then fiberglassed on top and just painted inside.
Any thoughts or other ideas?
Cub junkie
Registered User
My Moms basement
I don't have any pictures for ya' but I used harbor freight cotton drop cloths and titebond glue. I essentially covered the wood structure of my trailer similar to the way the guys do on Wittman Tailwinds and Cassutt wings. Prepared the surface with final sanding then a coating of glue then the cloth goes down then it gets wetted out like fiberglass. Helps to have extra hands when doing it this way. Aircraft fabric experience helps in this method and when its dry you can paint it with whatever you like. I used high quality exterior latex. This method is pretty common in the ho' made tear drop world.
Check out Chesapeake Light Craft teardrop kit. https://www.clcboats.com/shop/boats/recreational-vehicles/clc-teardrop-trailer.html
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Cub,
I've seen the process on the TD forum and it seems to be very popular. What type surface (wood) did you put the drop cloth on?
DGA,
Very interesting that you would suggest CLC!! I built one of their cedar kayaks a number of years ago while I was still living in MD. CLC used to be just down the road from the Annapolis Harley dealer and I used to stop in there when in the neighborhood. They were not doing TD's back then but it seems to follow their offerings. I lived on the MD Eastern Shore and the trip took me over the Chesapeake Bay frequently on the Harley, at least in good weather. CLC has high quality wood products and accessories for their wares. Their epoxy methods (although not unique) are what I will most likely use if I can figure out how to make the roof
Thanks guys for the ideas but I need to think out the construction of a 6 x 10 foot roof plus the cover for the "V".
I've seen the process on the TD forum and it seems to be very popular. What type surface (wood) did you put the drop cloth on?
DGA,
Very interesting that you would suggest CLC!! I built one of their cedar kayaks a number of years ago while I was still living in MD. CLC used to be just down the road from the Annapolis Harley dealer and I used to stop in there when in the neighborhood. They were not doing TD's back then but it seems to follow their offerings. I lived on the MD Eastern Shore and the trip took me over the Chesapeake Bay frequently on the Harley, at least in good weather. CLC has high quality wood products and accessories for their wares. Their epoxy methods (although not unique) are what I will most likely use if I can figure out how to make the roof
Thanks guys for the ideas but I need to think out the construction of a 6 x 10 foot roof plus the cover for the "V".
I had a long talk with an old friend who is a master wood craftsman and asked him if he had ever done the glue/canvas method and he said no, but he has seen boats done with canvas and horse hide glue painted with oil based paint that have lasted 100 years and they are still going strong. Well, that convinced me to give the technique a chance. I'm using TiteBond II and Behr latex and it appears to be a great process. The surface is hard but fairly flexible and I learned that regardless of how much I hate to iron anything...it is NECESSARY to iron the washed canvas to get the wrinkles out of it...first one I pulled and stretched the canvas and still had wrinkles after the 3rd coat of paint...a word to the wise folks.
I'm also experiencing "option creep" and it appears I may include a flat screen TV and a hot water shower and tunes of some sort. I'm wiring now and once that's done I'll begin putting the siding on. Not to worry...the LSA is still in my thoughts!
I'm also experiencing "option creep" and it appears I may include a flat screen TV and a hot water shower and tunes of some sort. I'm wiring now and once that's done I'll begin putting the siding on. Not to worry...the LSA is still in my thoughts!
