Thanks, that is what I thought.Skywagon, no experience with that model, but if the engine says 'Honda', it will work good. think about the electric remote start... then for long term power outage you can just sit inside and start when you want!
Thanks, that makes me comfortable with my choice. I use the procedure that I always turn off the main breaker from the street before starting the generator and never turning it back on when the generator is running and plugged in.That's what I have. That particular unit has surge output that'll handle momentary power draws in excess of 6500w. Mine runs my whole house including forced air heat and a well, the two most important things to power. Make sure you do a bypass switch to protect the utility's linemen and check local codes about the install. A portable with a plug has different rules than a hard wired gennie on an auto start.
This is a valid idea. It would make things a bit more complicated though. I looked at this idea and it seems as though the fuel efficiency would not really be much different. The larger unit has a conservation mode for when using less power. Also, these 3000s only produce 120 volts. I have a 240 volt plug for a welder which I use to plug in the generator. This allows me to use both 120 volt circuits in the house from one generator source.i'd look into a pair of 3000 Honda's that you can pair up when needed. run one for most the time. save on fuel....
I use the procedure that I always turn off the main breaker from the street before starting the generator and never turning it back on when the generator is running and plugged in.
The electrical equipment manufacturers make a switch specifically for generator use that isolates the incoming wires from the power company when the generator is in use. And the opposite is true when using power company power. I have one made by Square D. This makes it foolproof for someone not that familiar with how these things work. And safer for everyone.
In this case an extension chord would need to be 150-200 feet long to reach the main power source. The current extension is only 10 feet. I am looking into whether there is a remote sensing device that will control an isolation switch. Perhaps there is an isolation switch which has a sensor which can determine which side of the main breaker has the AC power? Did I ask this correctly? If I can't find something that will work automatically in my application, I'll just continue to throw the breaker manually.Extension cords work great. Make one using appropriate gauge wire for the required length. Mine's made especially for my application. Simple.
Agreed, I just like to have an idea of what is going on and what is available before I do.It sounds like you need to have a conversation with a local electrical contractor.
Traveling a couple of weeks ago it got a bit cold for this Okie so Reiff Turbo XP (6-100w cylinder bands and 2-100w sump pads) driven by a 1000w Honda Inverter produced 105 degree Oil and 130 degree cylinders in 2.5 hours with the preheat started at 18 degrees OAT. Only other device I add is a 15 foot cable lock...i like the new lightweight generators even if you have to wait quite a while for the oil to heat up.
Very good point to guard against an incomplete pre-heat and potential thermal shock.Next time note the oil temp drop upon start-up. The probe temp and the sump reservoir temp is usually different. Just something to consider.
Except at -20F the propane quits working...so you need to warm the propane to warm the truck...ha ha...that reminds me of parking the truck and heading into the white mountains north of Fairbanks...on snowmobiles. when we got back, at 20 or 40 below, we needed a reliable, fast warm up because we would be cold as heck. ours wasn't a kit like that though, just a weed burner on a tank, a length of stovepipe with an elbow, put it on the ground under the engine, and let it heat while we loaded up the snowmobiles. it is very effective, but i don't know if it would be a very good idea for an airplane. i like the new lightweight generators even if you have to wait quite a while for the oil to heat up.
You are mis-informed on that. I have started my Honda 1000 at -40 with full synthetic oil in it. Usually run 5W-20W Mobil 1 synthetic. Routinely start it at -20. Stewart is right, as long as the gas is good and sparkplug they will go. However, I did blow the crank seals out of one my Honda 1000's in McGrath last year when it was -46 because the breather froze. Honda makes a cold weather kit with a heated and insulated breather for $60. Both of mine have it on them now. But the bush guys just put a cardboard box over it. That would work at homebase, but what if you set down somewhere, you overnight, it gets really cold and your seals puke like mine did because you didn't have a cardbord box in your plane? Of course your satphone (you do have one with you right) is dead from cold too. Especially with those skinny little PA-18s with not much cargo area to hold a big box. Put the cold weather kit in is my advice if you are going out and want to rely on your little Honda.
Except at -20F the propane quits working...so you need to warm the propane to warm the truck...