External Control Locks

[NunavutPA-12]

This past weekend we had winds gusting to 54 knots, right on the tail, and I wasn't able to safely turn the 'plane around at its parking spot. Broke an aileron pushrod. It's fixed now and all is well, but it looks as if bungy-cording the control stick down to the rudder pedals isn't good enough. I had tied the flaps externally so they wouldn't bang around. With the control stick bungy-ed the rudder and elevator survived fine, but they probably should have been locked as well.

Since there's no point in re-inventing the wheel, does anyone have a photo(s) (or description) of home-made gust-locks, particularly for the ailerons?

I'm not above plagiarism.

[sierra bravo]

Just order some from Burl's. His aileron/flap locks are the best I know of. I used the plastic discs for the elevator. One on both sides. I always left the rudder free. I think a rudder lock does more harm than good on a Cub tail. SkyGeek sells some universal locks by AirGizmo. Probably work great but you'd need to add a tether to tie them to the strut so they wouldn't blow away. Burl's come with a bungee tether.

FWIW, I have a set of external aileron locks for my Cessna that are identical to Burl's and I've had them for 20 years. They were made by Aviation Techniques, Inc in Erwinna, PA. Cessna flaps are fixed so these anchor the ailerons to the flap. The Cub locks anchor the flaps to the ailerons and work pretty well but there's still a little movement as the ailerons try to move and take the flaps with them. It'll save the flaps from hammering on the flap stops, though.

[skywagon8a]

A couple of pieces of plywood connected with a through bolt and wing nut. Some anti chafe material against the surface and tie the assembly forward to prevent it from blowing off. One at each end of the ailerons and flap. Also same thing on the rudder and elevators at the slot next to the balance surface.

[Ursa Major]

The Burl's gust locks work real well if there is enough clearance between the flap and aileron for them to fit. Mine were a little too thick to work well on my cub so I sold them - still got 'em Stewart? I now use the rubber gust locks from lake and air - they've never blown off or moved once tightened down and they have been on in 100+mph gusts. For a rudder lock I use a 4' long 1x4 with a bolt/wing nut on each end that spans the rudder/vertical fin. I lined it with old ensolite foam (wont absorb water). When installed properly - nothing moves. Of course, parking nose into the wind will prevent lots of problems.

When I used the round disc plastic gust locks (that every pilot shop sells), they almost always blew off. After a stiff breeze at Merrill field you could walk along the fence line and find lots of them. The airport office used to have boxes of them that people would turn in to the lost and found.

[sierra bravo]

Hi Mike,

Still HAD them. Scooter has them now. I did use a die grinder to remove most of the rivet heads so they'd fit better between the aileron and flap. Flush rivets would have been better, no question. In fact I've dreamed up a few variations on the theme that would be better but my time and effort would cost me more than buying a pair of Burl's so I never bothered.

I've never lost a plastic disc lock from my tail. Never adjust them, either. Once set I push them on and pull them off as needed. The -12 never saw winds in excess of 70kts, though. Just a mild zephyr compared to the storms some of our planes have seen.

[moneyburner]

Scary having the tail into the wind. Lots of pressure on the top of the wing if you aren't on floats. Been there, done that.

If you make your own gust locks, make sure you don't use a material that expands when wet - if you have a through bolt, it will squeeze the control surface and could damage it. A neighbor used particle board or melamine and did exactly that. Squooshed all the tubing in the tail feathers.

[spinner2]

The Burl's gust locks work real well if there is enough clearance between the flap and aileron for them to fit. Mine were a little too thick to work well on my cub so I sold them - still got 'em Stewart? I now use the rubber gust locks from lake and air - they've never blown off or moved once tightened down and they have been on in 100+mph gusts. For a rudder lock I use a 4' long 1x4 with a bolt/wing nut on each end that spans the rudder/vertical fin. I lined it with old ensolite foam (wont absorb water). When installed properly - nothing moves. Of course, parking nose into the wind will prevent lots of problems.

Mike or Stewart, would Burl's locks work on the rudder too? I don't use tail wheel-to-rudder chains and the tail wheel is free castering so my rudder can flop back and forth freely. Since I'm usually hangared it isn't a big deal but.......

[sierra bravo]

Dan,

No, the Burl's locks are limited to the ailerons/flaps. Here's a picture of my Cessna locks that are identical in concept to Burl's. It's a tapered H that slips in between the aileron and flap. Pardon the poor photo but you get the idea. The lock is made of two tapered U channels riveted together in mirror image. The felt is there to protect the airplane finish but is a pain in freezing weather. Still the best aileron lock I know of. Be careful of locking the rudder at the forward balanced area. The main rudder can generate enough torque in the wind to put some serious twist to a lock placed forward of the post.

photo-2.jpg

[mike mcs repair]

... Broke an aileron pushrod. It's fixed now and all is well....

make sure to check that center hanger on aileron where rod attached for cracks/pulling away from spar... check flap ones too...

[cubdriver2]

I use 2 lexan 6" disks with a hole in the middle and the camper shell tape they use to protect the paint on a pickup, I have a 1/4" bungee knotted tight going thru the holes and it stretches enough when I slide it on the wing to hold the ailerons. It give's a little in a good blow but has never fallen out and it gives a lot in case you go flying with one still on not that I would ever do something that stupid

Glenn

[pfjay52]

NunavutPA-12
I had an email conversation with Mark Englerth when I bought my Thrustline mod regarding heavy weather securing. He suggested a fourth tie down, to the cabane, low & a few feet in front. Leaving that secured you can move the Cub around into the weather. It has worked for me plenty of times.
cheers,
phil

[Iflylower]

NunavutPA-12
I had an email conversation with Mark Englerth when I bought my Thrustline mod regarding heavy weather securing. He suggested a fourth tie down, to the cabane, low & a few feet in front. Leaving that secured you can move the Cub around into the weather. It has worked for me plenty of times.
cheers,
phil

What a great idea! Glad I read it.

[moneyburner]

NunavutPA-12
I had an email conversation with Mark Englerth when I bought my Thrustline mod regarding heavy weather securing. He suggested a fourth tie down, to the cabane, low & a few feet in front. Leaving that secured you can move the Cub around into the weather. It has worked for me plenty of times.
cheers,
phil

I like it!

[spinner2]

IMG_0238.JPG

This thread got me to thinking again about a control surface lock for my rudder. I had been thinking of external blocks for the rudder and vertical fin.

But decided on this simple way to lock my free rudder because of my non-use of rudder chains. Two 3/16" pin shackles into the rudder horn spring holes and clips to the eye nut with chain inbetween.

[slackass]

Saw these at Sentimental Journey. A couple of Walmart noodles and some string or zip ties.
sj 2012 177.jpgsj 2012 178.jpg

[SEFYK]

Some factory SC had an internal lock under the instrument panel which could be swiveled forward and fit on the stick. It locks elevator and aileron. I still have one in mine, but do not know if they are still available.

[skywagon8a]

Some factory SC had an internal lock under the instrument panel which could be swiveled forward and fit on the stick. It locks elevator and aileron. I still have one in mine, but do not know if they are still available.

You mean like this?
I found it in my goodie pile. It is fine for normal parking but, I would still put something on the controls for the big blow from behind.

[King Brown]

Same here, skywagon, on the coastline, ac on dolly: plywood with carpet covering, the aileron/flaps locks tied to jury struts, rudder and elevator friction-fit.

[WindOnHisNose]

I am not finding "Burl's gust lock"...any help?

I bought a set of discs similar to what you describe, Stewart, each about 6" diameter. Two discs are held together by an eyebolt threaded with a wing nut. They are bright orange, and have foam pads glued onto the inside surfaces...i will get a photo of them when I am back to the airplane. I put on disc set onto the notches between the flaps and ailerons on each wing, one onto the horizontal notch between the vertical stab and the rudder. Have used the seatbelt to go around the control stick.


I would like to see some photos of Burl's gust lock.


Randy

[sierra bravo]

Randy

Here are a few more photos of my Cessna's gust locks. You can find Burl's versions offered on his website as follows. Pricing isn't shown. They used to be $60 if memory serves.

GUST LG		Aileron/Flap Control Locks, Large - per pair; fits Cessna, Aeronca, Citabria, Helio; wool felt lined
GUST SM		Aileron/Flap Control Locks, Small - per pair; fits Piper PA-12, PA-14, PA-16, PA-18; wool felt lined

As I indicated before I didn't lock my rudder. It isn't prone to flopping back and forth and I thought locking the surface on the balance would do more harm than good. Elevators are much the same. I did lock those in most cases using the plastic discs but I doubt it does much good and I never took the discs along to use at a destination. The elevators will ride the wind nicely regardless of wind direction. Ailerons and flaps are what I was concerned with. Whether the wind was on the nose or the tail I preferred my flaps to be in the retracted position. A Cessna's flaps are locked when retracted but a Cub's are free to flop around to a greater setting then the flap lever is deployed to. A serious problem for retracted Cub flaps even in a mild wind, and deploying full flaps may save the pounding but it wasn't my favorite way to park. And while the ailerons didn't bang as much they still banged more than I preferred. The best solution is to lock the ailerons and flaps together as a unit in the neutral position. Nothing does it better, more securely, and with a fixture that's dead simple to carry and employ than the Burl's product. In the photos you can see a spring tether. That's what I use on my Cessna to engage into a hole in the wing skin. The Cub locks have a thin bungee tether to attach to the aft strut fitting on the wing. With either airplane the locks stay put in any wind you can expect to see, including the 117 mph Alaska winds in 2002. An old instructor used to liken internal gust locks to a child in the plane yanking on the controls while external gust locks were employed. You wouldn't allow it. The wear on the cables, pulleys, bell cranks, etc would be unnecessary. So it is for internally locked controls in the wind. Not good.

photo-2.JPGphoto-1.jpgphoto.JPG

[skywagon8a]

As I indicated before I didn't lock my rudder. It isn't prone to flopping back and forth and I thought locking the surface on the balance would do more harm than good. Elevators are much the same. I did lock those in most cases using the plastic discs but I doubt it does much good and I never took the discs along to use at a destination. The elevators will ride the wind nicely regardless of wind direction.

I disagree. I have seen all of the control surfaces damaged from blowing back and forth in the wind. They all do need to be locked externally to prevent damage in a strong gusty blow. Particularly when it is blowing from behind.

[sierra bravo]

And for those who like the idea of a simple and lightweight internal stick lock, use an eye bolt at the pilot's stick-to-torque tube joint and leave the eye facing aft. Fabricate a wire hook and attach to the center cross tube of the pilot's seat base. Make the wire hook the appropriate size to lock the stick into a suitably neutral position. Effective, simple, and lightweight. Cub 101. But it won't secure your flaps, and that's the biggest damage potential. You internal lock fans park with your flaps fully deployed, right?

[skywagon8a]

But it won't secure your flaps, and that's the biggest damage potential. You internal lock fans park with your flaps fully deployed, right?

Right on: It makes no difference whether the flaps are in the up or down position, the wind will bang them around and cause damage either way. It is scary watching flaps fluttering in the wind. You would not think that they could move so rapidly and cause so much damage in such a short period of time.

[55-PA18A]

I'm also a believer in external gust locks. Randy, a short piece of plastic tubing on the bolt between the discs will help keep the threads on the bolt from chewing up the fabric between the flap and aileron. An acorn nut on the end of the bolt will also get rid of the sharp edge, and help keep the wing nuts where they belong. I always attach a piece of bungi cord to the flap/aileron control locks, and hook or tie to the tie-down ring. Make the locks and cords, etc in contrasting color to your plane paint scheme. That will help you see them during the pre-flight.

I usually don't put a rudder lock on unless I know there's a big storm coming. Then, I have a set made from padded 1 x 4's that go from from the front of the fin to the back of the rudder. Both ends have a bolt with wing nuts. Same with the elevators.

If I'm parked in an exposed area, and I know there's a really big blow coming, I'll sometimes tie 10 ft. 2 x 4's to the rear strut. I know it's overkill, but a big storm we had here in February 2002 (?) went from blowing 25 from the north at 10 pm, to 80+ from the south by 4 am.

Spinner2, I sure hope you never forget that rudder lock during a preflight. It's not very visable. There are stories of others forgetting even very obvious gust locks.

Jim W

[WindOnHisNose]

Jim W, I am not understanding where/why you tie on the 10 ft 2 x 4's to the rear strut...not visualizing this nor understanding why it helps.

As usual, you all have some really great suggestions. Stewart, thanks for the photo, as it helps greatly.

Randy

[sierra bravo]

Jim was referring to adding a 2x4 as a doubler along the length of the aft wing strut. A Cub with standard struts may see the aft strut fold in tailwinds as low as 40 mph. I've watched a few fold and have saved a few others by adding 2x4s to neighbor's planes during wind events where the neighbor was absent. Perhaps the most telling experience was while trying to save a neighbor's wings with a friend. One strut was compromised and we needed to prop the wing up in order to straighten the strut to attach the 2x4. The load on that wing in gusts approaching 50-60 mph was alarming. It was all two strong men could do to hold it while a third stranger tied the 2x4 on, and it hadn't completely failed yet, although I had to leave a note that the aft left strut was no longer worthy of flight. But we did save the wings and the airframe. The practice of reinforcing the aft struts with 2x4s is common for parked Cubs during Alaskan winters.

[WindOnHisNose]

Makes sense, thanks, Stewart.

How do you fasten the 2 x 4's to the strut, and at how many locations?

Randy

[sierra bravo]

While doing rescues on other's planes I use rope. If I thought it necessary on my own I'd use duct tape, which I always carry in my tool kit. How many places? All you need to do is limit deflection. 4 or 5 strips of tape would be plenty adequate. I doubt you hangar pilots need to worry about it. In any event try to turn the plane nose to the wind. Problem eliminated if you catch it early. When the wind's blowing 70 it's too late to untie and rotate the plane.

[WindOnHisNose]

I am unlikely to get in this situation, but like to know what to do and why, should I find myself in this predicament.

Excellent explanation. Thank you.

Randy

[Ursa Major]

This is what happens if you don't catch it in time. After repairs, whenever I had to leave the plane unattended I taped 2x4s to the rear strut with duct tape. I covered the painted strut with a piece of split fire hose to prevent the paint lifting from the tape.Tbearwind 005.jpgTbearwind 006.jpg

[55-PA18A]

Thanks Stewart. The exactly describes what I meant. I usually use pieces of heavy cord or light rope, about 3 or 4 ft long, tied in 4 to 6 places spaced along the length of the strut. In an emergency, I wouldn't hesitate to use duct tape,...it would be a lot quicker. I'd worry about the paint later. A standard 10 ft. 2 x 4 fits under the bottom of the rear strut, and is the right length to go between the hardware at each end of the strut.

Ursa, that's just what I'm trying to prevent. During that big blow here in Dillingham, there was one Cub that we couldn't get turned around and both sides collapsed. By the end of the storm, there was a whole lot busted up on that Cub.

Jim W

[Ursa Major]

The exactly describes what I meant. I usually use pieces of heavy cord or light rope, about 3 or 4 ft long, tied in 4 to 6 places spaced along the length of the strut. In an emergency, I wouldn't hesitate to use duct tape,...it would be a lot quicker. I'd worry about the paint later. A standard 10 ft. 2 x 4 fits under the bottom of the rear strut, and is the right length to go between

Ursa, that's just what I'm trying to prevent. During that big blow here in Dillingham, there was one Cub that we couldn't get turned around and both sides collapsed. By the end of the storm, there was a whole lot busted up on that Cub.

Jim W

While the damage (other than the rear strut) doesn't look too bad, I did have to replace the entire left wing (damaged spar and ribs) and all four lift struts. Also had to re weld the wing attach tabs and replace the left elevator. I was out of town when the wind started to blow, and while friends tried to save it (note the tape on the struts where they tried to attach stiffeners) the damage had been done by the time they got to it. I was a lot more careful how I secured it after that. The good news was that the tie down knots held, and the gust locks stayed on the airplane at 105 kts.

[sierra bravo]

Update. I was in Stoddard's not long ago and see that Atlee Dodge is making external flap-aileron locks now, too. Stoddard's has both on their shelf. The FAD locks are very similar to Burl's.

[aviationinfo]

What are folks doing for the elevator? Haven't seen that specifically mentioned. I just use a seat belt to tie the stick back to the seat frame but I can see now where that'd not work so well in very strong winds.