I have a set of Wipline 2100 on my cub and the retract operations of the water rudder is a two handed operation because it is so hard to pull up. Any tips on making it easier for the retract? The way it is set up now, the cable guide is going to work loose from the floor mounts if I don't do anything about it and bend the boot cowl.
Water Rudder Retract (Hard to pull)
- Thread starter Indabush
- Start date
King Brown
Registered User
Nova Scotia
If the cable guide isn't the right angle, it will pull loose for sure.
to easy and obvious Amy:lol:
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
Not sure about the Wip system. EDO uses a steel tube which goes down through the floor and is bent towards the tail. This creates a lot of cable drag. I mounted a small pulley on the bottom/outside of the removable cowl behind the boot and left off the steel tube. It works slick. You can just reach in the door and easily pull up the rudders.
The one set of Wips which I helped install had some hard stops on the water rudders. If the rudders are not set correctly these stops could be dragging on the back of the floats making it difficult to pull. I got a field approval to remove these stops.
The one set of Wips which I helped install had some hard stops on the water rudders. If the rudders are not set correctly these stops could be dragging on the back of the floats making it difficult to pull. I got a field approval to remove these stops.
Dave Calkins
Registered User
Anchorage, Alaska
Some of the bigger Wips have some common issues.....
.....check the H20 rudder pull up cables and pulleys in side the floats. Some of Wip's floats have a common issue of the pulley brackets ripping free of the bulkheads where they're riveted on. They are designed in a manner that the rivet tails pull right out of the metal, as there is not enough area/bearing surface and the rivets are in tension.
If you're pull is very hard, chances are you've stressed the pulley brackets or have a misalignment happening or on the verge of happening.
Also, while you're in there, check the steering cables pulley brackets that are fixed to a cable "pigtail" that is in the corner of the transoms on each side.....that cable pigtail doesn't have a long life.
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I drove around the float pond and seen a neat set up where they had a single line connecting both water rudders. Off of that they had a pulley that would find center and was connected to the water retract cable. I do have the atlee retract handle and don't use that Wip one. I also would like to remove the big aluminum stops (locks) on mine. Skywagon8 would you have a picture of that pulley set up? 
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Grant
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I am not always at my desk actually, I am hardly ever there. I'm sorry I missed you. You should not have been on hold that long. My cell is 651-783-2448. Call me anytime.
Grant
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skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
Removing the stops involves installing a ventral fin as the Wips can't pass flight test without airframe alteration or artificial feel (extra neutralizing return springs on rudder). Seaworthy has promised to take a picture of the pulley setup for you. (I don't have one of those digital Polaroid thingies) It is just a couple of aluminum angles riveted outside to the bottom with a small ball bearing pulley bolted between them with a cable safety guard. This is mounted directly below the edge of the instrument panel where the hook for the handle is mounted and outboard of the rudder cable and inboard of the lower fuselage tube.
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
Here you are. Sorry for the delay.
The pulley guard is important to keep the cable in place without jaming between the pulley and the angle supports.
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Dan Gervae
FRIEND
Upper Peninsula of Michigan
I did the same type of pulley on my Baumann's Worked well now for 5 yrs
D.A.
FRIEND
Free America
Yeah I know, old thread.
Hey Skywagon, the pulley brackets only use the false cowl for attachment, right? Nothing needs to be welded inside?
D.A.
FRIEND
Free America
I found the post where Bill Rusk did that same thing. Good advice, thanks.
aktango58
FRIEND
18AA
one other trick I went to, instead of cable I got some braided string about the diameter of a small shoe lace. Very strong, and much easier to deal with and replace then cable. It was also a couple bucks for a roll.
For lifting the rudders it was great, went from inside to the cable attached to both rudders. Tied a clove hitch and was done.
For lifting the rudders it was great, went from inside to the cable attached to both rudders. Tied a clove hitch and was done.
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
You are looking at the whole assembly. Nothing inside. You could place a doubler inside if you wish, however with this design the load is distributed well enough so one is not needed. IF those two pulley brackets were reversed so that the riveted angle was facing forward then the load path would tend to bend and crack the cowl. The load path in my picture is roughly up and back at about a 45 degree angle. Thus the bracket as shown eliminates the need for a addition reinforcement. The handle hangs from a hook on the lower right corner of the instrument panel. The cable goes down through a hole in the floor board, through the hole which you see in the false cowl. It is close enough to the channel to which the cowl panel attaches so that the stresses are adequately supported.
aktango, EDO supplies a curved steel tube with a tight radius for this purpose. I've installed a lot of those. This one is easier to pull than any other system which I have used. Also unless you do attach the tube to the sheet metal with something, it does tend to pull an elongated hole into the sheet metal.
I like your idea of the braided string particularly if you go back and forth from wheels to floats.
