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Thread: fuel valve parts

  1. #1

    fuel valve parts

    Dis-assembled my fuel valve today due to a slight fuel seep. Discovered that the "Brass washer" and "Washer" that is between the spring and "O" ring is not there. Anyone have a valve they will sell that has these washers or a part number and source? I could use a "crush washer" also, I know the part number for the crush washer, it is N/A from Univair. Thanks, Jim
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  2. #2
    My guess is that this is a standard part, adapted by Piper. Back then, engineers designed airplanes around existing hardware. It is certainly true for the smaller Pipers; the J-3 fuel valve is a slightly modified gas valve that can still be found in hardware stores.

  3. #3

  4. #4
    I have a brand new one with left right both in my tool box, and an old one, (about three years of use) that is from univair that replaced a failed one.

    I can take it out and get it to you if you need it. New style, but no both.
    I don't know where you've been me lad, but I see you won first Prize!

  5. #5
    aktango58, PM sent. Jim

  6. #6
    msg returned...

    Will try for tomorrow to pull it out. Lots of snow to push before I head home.
    I don't know where you've been me lad, but I see you won first Prize!

  7. #7
    PM sent, did not want to change this valve at this time of year. Jim

  8. #8
    Will get on it as soon as this !@@###$$$%$##@@@ snow blower will work properly...

    I am beginning to hate this piece of .... SPAM CAN!
    I don't know where you've been me lad, but I see you won first Prize!

  9. #9

    fuel shut off valve parts

    How do you get the stem out?

    The service bulletin says first remove the fuel valve. I don't see why you need to remove it to clean up the valve anf put a new o-ring in.

    I think I will also need a position washer. Any body have one ?

    Any advice will be appreciated except buy a new one. Mines not dead yet.

    Thanks,

    Ken

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by fly18s View Post
    How do you get the stem out?

    The service bulletin says first remove the fuel valve. I don't see why you need to remove it to clean up the valve anf put a new o-ring in.

    I think I will also need a position washer. Any body have one ?

    Any advice will be appreciated except buy a new one. Mines not dead yet.

    Thanks,

    Ken
    buy a new one!

    but put handle back on and turn & pull to get plug out... if you want shaft out.. I think its pinned in???

    been 15+ years since I did anything but throw that style in the dumpster....

    make sure you get right position washer & in right way or maybe have alignment, fuel starvation issues???? been a long time.....

  11. #11
    Got a parts book? Position washer is Univair #756 645, "O" ring is 752 822(also available at Spruce but I don't have the MS #, maybe a -11 off the top of my head). The washer under the cap is N/A so be careful with it. Position washer can go in only one way, there is a tab on it that fits a recess in the valve. Very simple when it is all exposed. Jim

  12. #12
    Jim & Mike,

    Thanks for the quick replies. I went through both fuel valves today. PA 18 is now cleaned & lubed and working. J-3 with super cub fuel system still leaks a little when shut off. needs more lapping. stem & seat were really scored. Dash 11 o-ring was right.
    I did not look up the parts because I read parts were not available. Some are.
    Getting these two ready to go to Alaska in the spring.
    Thanks,

    Ken

  13. #13
    Was looking at a new fuel valve today.. the one we 'almost bought' switched as expected all directions (except OFF) it left the tanks tied together in the off position and shut off only the main outlet? I would expect the tanks to auto-level with this configuration and was surprised a certified valve would operate this way.. need an education. TIA

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Little_Cub View Post
    Was looking at a new fuel valve today.. the one we 'almost bought' switched as expected all directions (except OFF) it left the tanks tied together in the off position and shut off only the main outlet? I would expect the tanks to auto-level with this configuration and was surprised a certified valve would operate this way.. need an education. TIA
    edit.... i was confusing one thats been drilled for both..... sorry...

  15. #15
    My original fuel valve does not cross-feed from one tank to the other in the "OFF" position. Cross-feeding seems like it would be caused by a poor fitting or too loose plug in the valve body.

    Vickie

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by tamarack View Post
    My original fuel valve does not cross-feed from one tank to the other in the "OFF" position. ......

    Vickie
    maybe I am confusing one thats been drilled for both???

    (gonna have to go sketch one now...)

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by mike mcs repair View Post
    maybe I am confusing one thats been drilled for both???
    (gonna have to go sketch one now...)
    This was a new valve with LEFT, RIGHT, BOTH and OFF.. everything as expected 'except' OFF ties the tanks together.. reminds me of things that happen with a new car and the computer.. personally I want the silly thing to offer no surprises. You could have crud in one tank or even a leak and not want it self leveling in the off position.

  18. #18
    You need to consider what the labeling means. The LEFT, RIGHT, BOTH and OFF is describing the source of the fuel which is going to the engine. The labels do not say what the fuel is doing before it leaves the valve in the direction of the engine. The main purpose of the valve is to stop the fuel from going to the engine side of the firewall in case of an emergency such as a fire. All else is just a convenience for the pilot.
    N1PA

  19. #19
    I am having a small crack in a original plastic tapered fuel valve on a cub I maintain. So I need a new one. Allthough original valve does not seem to exist? Or do Piper still have some parts?
    Anybody having bad experience with the Univair valve, or is it a good replacement part? Is it Left right Off, or does it hav both aswell?

    Thankul for advice.

    /Henrik

  20. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Cubswede View Post
    I am having a small crack in a original plastic tapered fuel valve on a cub I maintain. So I need a new one. Allthough original valve does not seem to exist? Or do Piper still have some parts?
    Anybody having bad experience with the Univair valve, or is it a good replacement part? Is it Left right Off, or does it hav both aswell?

    Thankul for advice.

    /Henrik
    dakota has a nice one with both position

    not sure if this is the right one with both or not... http://dakotacub.com/index.php?optio...id=127&cat_id=

  21. #21
    The Univair valve I purchased works nicely but still less than a year old. Seems to be of good quality, doesn't have both position.

    Mark J
    Practicing open cockpit extremism

  22. #22
    Don't see many of the nylon cones.

    Univair's valve works well.

    The Dakota valve is nice, comes with a new machined billet handle and has a Both position.
    Steve Pierce

    "When everything seems to be going against you, remember that the airplane takes off against the wind, not with it."
    Henry Ford

  23. #23
    I added a Dakota valve recently and recommend it. Thought I was going to have to disassemble it to install in the bracket, thankfully I called Dakota for advice. "Can't push the fabric back enough to get it in the hole in the bracket" I said, "I guess it's got to come apart". "Cut a slot in the bottom of the bracket" says Mr. Dakota. I responded with a "Duh" and a thank you for your time. It's a fine valve. Jim

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