Darrel Starr
Registered User
Plymouth, MN
Way to go Bill!
Building a Javron Cub
- Thread starter Bill Rusk
- Start date
little wing
Registered User
Super beautiful job! Now, since you don't have anything else to do,:smile: please tell us how it flies!
Bill Rusk
BENEFACTOR
Sandpoint, Idaho
THANK YOU all so much for your support and encouragement, comments, help, humor, etc. It has been a heck of a run. Passed the inspection with only one minor squawk that was fixed on the spot in about 3 seconds. Just had to make a minor bend in a line to give a little more clearance to prevent chaffing. In short the inspection went really smooth. That is due in large part to my GREAT friends that rallied at the end and knocked out the "punch list" of minor things prior to the inspection. I was a little late shopping for insurance so I will do the first flight after I get insured, hopefully in a day or two........
I will talk through the certification paperwork here in a day or two but in the meantime here are a couple of photos taken by Buck.....
First time in the sun.
We had to use some temporary labels/decals in a few places until I can get better ones made.
First start.
OK, that was fun but you did not come to this thread just to look at a few pictures, you are here to learn something....maybe...... so here we go.....this thread is not done yet....
This might be a little hard to see but the small wire cutters on the right have a small bevel on the backside of the cutting blade. This is normal and this is probably what your side cutters, or wire cutters, look like. The ones on the left are flat right to the cutting edge, no bevel. This is a little harder to find in the tool catalog, or you could grind a beveled set down on your belt sander. Why does it matter, you ask?
When you clip the end of a tie wrap off that bevel will leave this little stub sticking out of the lock part. This little sharp nub will scrape and cut the stuffings out of your hands when working under the panel, in the engine compartment, or anywhere else you have used a tie wrap. No kidding, those little stubs can really be a PAIN.
If you use the non beveled wire cutters it will cut the tie wrap flush with the lock and you will not have that sharp edged stub sticking out to rip the skin off your knuckles.
Hoses
You will be using 4 types and sizes of hoses on your Cub. It can get pretty confusing as to what size of AN fittings, lines etc to use so here is a quick summary that might help and be a reference guide.
Brake lines are usually made up of 1/4" OD (outside diameter) tubing and they take AN4 fittings. They will usually have 1/8" NPT (National Pipe Threads) on one end, for example where the fitting screws into the brake caliper or into the master cylinder.
Fuel lines are usually 3/8" OD tubing - these will take AN6 fittings and these will have 1/4 NPT threads
Oil lines are AN8 fittings with 3/8th NPT threads
You will have a need for a fuel line from the gascolator to the carb, and a couple of oil lines to the oil cooler. These lines are a kind of braided cloth material and can be made by you pretty easily by using the Stratoflex 111 hose and the #6 fittings for the fuel line and #8 for the oil lines. You will want to buy (or borrow) the #6 mandrel for the fuel line and the #8 for the oil lines. The mandrels are not that expensive 20 to 25 dollars each and you will be the stud on the airport as you make hoses for everyone else.
The mandrel looks like this.
Link to AC Spruce mandrels - http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/aqmandrel2.php
Here is a youtube video of how to use the mandrel to make your fuel and oil lines. It is about 10 minutes and it is quite easy. Don't be intimidated by this...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpDLc1mzk1A
This is my Stratoflex oil cooler line. The blue part screws on to the AN8 fitting screwed into your oil cooler. The gold part is the ferrel and is the identifying characteristic of Stratoflex fittings/lines. It uses an AN8 fitting with a 3/8 NPT thread that goes into the oil cooler. that fitting will look like this......
The flat end goes into the oil cooler and the beveled end is where you screw the hose onto. For me, I used a 90 degree fitting on the top of the oil cooler and a 90 fitting on the bottom. This gave a nice smooth hose transition. The hose needs a little bend in it to give it room to flex and vibrate with the engine. Don't try to make the hoses perfectly tight and straight. So.....you will need two AN822-8D fittings for your oil cooler, and two AN823-8D fittings (same as picture above except it has a 45 degree bend Vs a 90) that will screw into the engine case oil cooler openings. That is where the 3/8 NPT thread goes. Don't forget to use the EZ lube fuel lube on these threads/fittings.
This is my fuel line. Notice the gentle bend to give it room to flex. You can also see the gold colored ferrels that are characteristic of Stratoflex lines. AN6 fittings and 1/4 NPT for the gascolator and carburetor.
After you make your fuel line you will want to cover it with fire sleeve (link here - http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/stratofs.php?clickkey=150776 )
and use the proper clamps to terminate the fire sleeve. They are sold in the same place in the catalog as the fire sleeve.
Hope this helps
Bill
I will talk through the certification paperwork here in a day or two but in the meantime here are a couple of photos taken by Buck.....
First time in the sun.
We had to use some temporary labels/decals in a few places until I can get better ones made.
First start.
OK, that was fun but you did not come to this thread just to look at a few pictures, you are here to learn something....maybe...... so here we go.....this thread is not done yet....
This might be a little hard to see but the small wire cutters on the right have a small bevel on the backside of the cutting blade. This is normal and this is probably what your side cutters, or wire cutters, look like. The ones on the left are flat right to the cutting edge, no bevel. This is a little harder to find in the tool catalog, or you could grind a beveled set down on your belt sander. Why does it matter, you ask?
When you clip the end of a tie wrap off that bevel will leave this little stub sticking out of the lock part. This little sharp nub will scrape and cut the stuffings out of your hands when working under the panel, in the engine compartment, or anywhere else you have used a tie wrap. No kidding, those little stubs can really be a PAIN.
If you use the non beveled wire cutters it will cut the tie wrap flush with the lock and you will not have that sharp edged stub sticking out to rip the skin off your knuckles.
Hoses
You will be using 4 types and sizes of hoses on your Cub. It can get pretty confusing as to what size of AN fittings, lines etc to use so here is a quick summary that might help and be a reference guide.
Brake lines are usually made up of 1/4" OD (outside diameter) tubing and they take AN4 fittings. They will usually have 1/8" NPT (National Pipe Threads) on one end, for example where the fitting screws into the brake caliper or into the master cylinder.
Fuel lines are usually 3/8" OD tubing - these will take AN6 fittings and these will have 1/4 NPT threads
Oil lines are AN8 fittings with 3/8th NPT threads
You will have a need for a fuel line from the gascolator to the carb, and a couple of oil lines to the oil cooler. These lines are a kind of braided cloth material and can be made by you pretty easily by using the Stratoflex 111 hose and the #6 fittings for the fuel line and #8 for the oil lines. You will want to buy (or borrow) the #6 mandrel for the fuel line and the #8 for the oil lines. The mandrels are not that expensive 20 to 25 dollars each and you will be the stud on the airport as you make hoses for everyone else.
The mandrel looks like this.
Link to AC Spruce mandrels - http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/aqmandrel2.php
Here is a youtube video of how to use the mandrel to make your fuel and oil lines. It is about 10 minutes and it is quite easy. Don't be intimidated by this...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpDLc1mzk1A
This is my Stratoflex oil cooler line. The blue part screws on to the AN8 fitting screwed into your oil cooler. The gold part is the ferrel and is the identifying characteristic of Stratoflex fittings/lines. It uses an AN8 fitting with a 3/8 NPT thread that goes into the oil cooler. that fitting will look like this......
The flat end goes into the oil cooler and the beveled end is where you screw the hose onto. For me, I used a 90 degree fitting on the top of the oil cooler and a 90 fitting on the bottom. This gave a nice smooth hose transition. The hose needs a little bend in it to give it room to flex and vibrate with the engine. Don't try to make the hoses perfectly tight and straight. So.....you will need two AN822-8D fittings for your oil cooler, and two AN823-8D fittings (same as picture above except it has a 45 degree bend Vs a 90) that will screw into the engine case oil cooler openings. That is where the 3/8 NPT thread goes. Don't forget to use the EZ lube fuel lube on these threads/fittings.
This is my fuel line. Notice the gentle bend to give it room to flex. You can also see the gold colored ferrels that are characteristic of Stratoflex lines. AN6 fittings and 1/4 NPT for the gascolator and carburetor.
After you make your fuel line you will want to cover it with fire sleeve (link here - http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/stratofs.php?clickkey=150776 )
and use the proper clamps to terminate the fire sleeve. They are sold in the same place in the catalog as the fire sleeve.
Hope this helps
Bill
soyAnarchisto
MEMBER
Boulder, CO
Nice work!
McChargue
Registered User
Palmer, Alaska
Klein makes a really nice set of those flush cut cutters for using on ty-wraps. The best I've found so far. Just about any residential electrical supply house will stock them.
Congrats again Bill, turned out beautiful. I'm hoping to see it in person around fall time!
Congrats again Bill, turned out beautiful. I'm hoping to see it in person around fall time!
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
Congratulations Bill, Well Done!
A heads up for those who don't know, dry aluminum threaded fittings (particularly pipe threads) when screwed into a dry aluminum something can (even when turned in by hand for a test fit) bind and jam. This will require removing the fitting with a wrench and often will destroy the threads transferring metal to the receptor's threads. Now you will have the problem of removing the offensive transferred aluminum from an internal threaded part. Thus the importance of using a suitable lubricant.
You may think that "I'll just turn it in a couple of threads to try it". DO NOT!
Also you may think that when you turned it in that it did not even get hand tight. Surprise when you try to back it out. It will not come out. "Oh I'll just put it in one turn to test". Nope! Maybe it will work and maybe it won't. Take my word for it.
Last edited:
photosfromabove
MEMBER
Seattle ,Greenlake
The same thing goes with "Stainless Steel" pipe threads,Congratulations Bill, Well Done!
A heads up for those who don't know, dry aluminum threaded fittings (particularly pipe threads) when screwed into a dry aluminum something can (even when turned in by hand for a test fit) bind and jam. This will require removing the fitting with a wrench and often will destroy the threads transferring metal to the receptor's threads. Now you will have the problem of removing the offensive transferred aluminum from an internal threaded part. Thus the importance of using a suitable lubricant.
You may think that "I'll just turn it in a couple of threads to try it". DO NOT!
Also you may think that when you turned it in that it did not even get hand tight. Surprise when you try to back it out. It will not come out. "Oh I'll just put it in one turn to test". Nope! Maybe it will work and maybe it won't. Take my word for it.
WindOnHisNose
BENEFACTOR
Lino Lakes MN (MY18)
A few words from a friend who has watched Bills journeys in recent years...
Dreams. Ideas. Perservere. Adversity. Risk. Devotion. Survival. Disappointment. Resilience. Skill. Masterful. Sharing. Teamwork. Money. Unknown. Great Spirit. Craftsmanship. Friendships. Preparation. Experience. Faith. Humor. Schedules. Horizon. Excitement. Anticipation. Community. Friends. Exceptional. Details. Inspection. Passed. Relief. Rest. Satisfaction. Grateful. Peace. Blessed.
Randy
Dreams. Ideas. Perservere. Adversity. Risk. Devotion. Survival. Disappointment. Resilience. Skill. Masterful. Sharing. Teamwork. Money. Unknown. Great Spirit. Craftsmanship. Friendships. Preparation. Experience. Faith. Humor. Schedules. Horizon. Excitement. Anticipation. Community. Friends. Exceptional. Details. Inspection. Passed. Relief. Rest. Satisfaction. Grateful. Peace. Blessed.
Randy
DW
Registered User
pacific northwest
Hey Bill again congrats....food for thought on your gascolator I see you have the push type drain I like to use the Curtis drain it can be locked open for draining ...say if your buddy needs a few gallons while your out or you just need to drain a tank it's much easier then holding it open.....just a thought...again great job.
DW
DW
OregonAero
Registered User
Scappoose Oregon
Congrats Bill! That's a beautiful plane and a job well done sir. 
Dave Calkins
Registered User
Anchorage, Alaska
Bill. Great to see that you have crossed the finish line, so to speak.
Comment about Tie wraps and "TyRaps"(brand name, the ones with the metal locking tooth).......flush cutting real TyRaps is well-advised. Do not flush cut the el-cheapo tiewraps. The plastic locking tooth is only 1 notch in from the end of the head and if you flush cut them they will not hold well. FYI. IMHO. FWIW. YMMV. SIIC.
Go burn some gas. You are a first-quality guy. I am happy for you!
Comment about Tie wraps and "TyRaps"(brand name, the ones with the metal locking tooth).......flush cutting real TyRaps is well-advised. Do not flush cut the el-cheapo tiewraps. The plastic locking tooth is only 1 notch in from the end of the head and if you flush cut them they will not hold well. FYI. IMHO. FWIW. YMMV. SIIC.
Go burn some gas. You are a first-quality guy. I am happy for you!
Bill Rusk
BENEFACTOR
Sandpoint, Idaho
Thanks Dave. Good input.
Well we got the insurance issues resolved, but lost the oil temp gauge/indicator probe. It went kerput. So I will talk to Grand Rapids tomorrow and try to get it resolved. Ergo, it may be a few more days until the first flight. Uggggg........ I want to play with my new toy.....this is killing me.......
Legend Cub.....meet Javron Cub. Jim stopped in today with his Legend Cub. Pretty cool. I also had Charlie's Airframes Alaska Cub in the backyard for a couple of hours today.
Bill
Well we got the insurance issues resolved, but lost the oil temp gauge/indicator probe. It went kerput. So I will talk to Grand Rapids tomorrow and try to get it resolved. Ergo, it may be a few more days until the first flight. Uggggg........ I want to play with my new toy.....this is killing me.......
Legend Cub.....meet Javron Cub. Jim stopped in today with his Legend Cub. Pretty cool. I also had Charlie's Airframes Alaska Cub in the backyard for a couple of hours today.
Bill
Steve-N1964S
SPONSOR
East TN
Looks really good, Bill
Can't wait to see it in person!
Steve
Can't wait to see it in person!Steve
Bill Rusk
BENEFACTOR
Sandpoint, Idaho
FLIES GREAT!!!
I will do a better report when I have time, but I am VERY pleased. I think we have a winner here. You can REALLY tell that it is light. It is light on the controls and lands like a dream. Very nice slow flight. GREAT over the nose visibility. It was a bit of a pain to deal with lowering the engine 2 inches but it paid off BIG TIME. Heater from the Sutton works awesome, which was another concern from the last build. In short, I am very very pleased. Love the shoulder harnesses, seat, avionics, brakes, adjustable CG, visibility, throttle PTT, electric trim. I think my dream Cub just became a reality. Got a few things to work on and then its off to my job (which makes all this possible) for a few days. Still a lot to do to make Johnson Creek but at least we are still in the running.
Taxing out for the first flight.
Bill
I will do a better report when I have time, but I am VERY pleased. I think we have a winner here. You can REALLY tell that it is light. It is light on the controls and lands like a dream. Very nice slow flight. GREAT over the nose visibility. It was a bit of a pain to deal with lowering the engine 2 inches but it paid off BIG TIME. Heater from the Sutton works awesome, which was another concern from the last build. In short, I am very very pleased. Love the shoulder harnesses, seat, avionics, brakes, adjustable CG, visibility, throttle PTT, electric trim. I think my dream Cub just became a reality. Got a few things to work on and then its off to my job (which makes all this possible) for a few days. Still a lot to do to make Johnson Creek but at least we are still in the running.
Taxing out for the first flight.
Bill
phdigger123
FRIEND
Cottage Grove, Mn
Congratulations Bill!
Paul Heinrich
PARTNER
Illinois & Wisconsin
I hope she brings you countless joys and memorable adventures.
By the way, does she have a name?
By the way, does she have a name?
Bill Rusk
BENEFACTOR
Sandpoint, Idaho
PeterMc - congrats. you are going to LOVE it.
Juerg - great to see you here. Yes, you can say you had a part in it. Next time you are in the states we will be sure to go flying.
Paul - not yet.
Thank you Steve
Got in a second short flight yesterday. the air was really smooth so I had a chance to check the rigging. Perfect. Dead on. still have some bugs to work on, like the left side windows are too thin. They are bowing in and out pretty bad. I will have to make a new set of windows out of thicker plexiglass. Heard about new sump that may save weight. Need to check on that. Its all good.
Bill
Juerg - great to see you here. Yes, you can say you had a part in it. Next time you are in the states we will be sure to go flying.
Paul - not yet.
Thank you Steve
Got in a second short flight yesterday. the air was really smooth so I had a chance to check the rigging. Perfect. Dead on. still have some bugs to work on, like the left side windows are too thin. They are bowing in and out pretty bad. I will have to make a new set of windows out of thicker plexiglass. Heard about new sump that may save weight. Need to check on that. Its all good.
Bill
Mike Woodson
FRIEND
Spokane
Congratulations Bill. You are the best and now you have the best. See you later today to celebrate with a BBQ in your honor... well in the airplane's honor with Dave, Carey and others.
Mike
Mike
skywagon8a
MEMBER
SE Mass MA6
Congratulations Bill!
Just thinking out loud. How thick, 1/8"? Are these sliding windows? Where is the bowing? At the stiffener edge where the two sections overlap? Perhaps an angle of aluminum riveted to the edge will be enough? The angle shouldn't need to be very high to provide needed stiffness. Or perhaps gluing a thick narrow strip of plexiglass to the edge will provide enough stiffness?
My upper door window glass rattles sometimes. Even though I haven't bothered to do it, I think that a screw into the vertical tubing will solve the issue. It only sits in the slot around the edge.
Hardtailjohn
Registered User
Marion, MT
If it were me, I'd maybe think about heating them and bowing them out just a bit...it sure throws some strength in and is easy to do, plus a little extra shoulder room never hurts!
John
John
